The situation when the refrigerator clicks and does not turn on often takes owners by surprise, causing panic about the imminent failure of equipment and damage to products. This characteristic sound can be either absolutely normal for certain operating modes or an alarming signal about serious malfunctions in the electrical circuit or mechanics of the compressor. Understanding the nature of the sound allows you to quickly determine whether an urgent call to a technician is required or the problem can be solved yourself by carrying out simple diagnostics.
In most cases, clicks are produced by starting and protective relay or the thermostat, trying to start the motor, but encountering resistance or lack of power. It is important not to ignore repeated clicking cycles accompanied by a lack of cold, as this can lead to burnt-out motor windings. In this article we will analyze in detail the main causes of noise, methods for identifying them and action algorithms for various types of refrigeration equipment.
Normal operation of the thermostat and starting relay
The first thing to exclude is the normal operation of the automation. If refrigerator clicks periodically, about once every 30-40 minutes, and immediately after that the compressor starts, then this is a normal cycle of turning the thermostat off and on. At this moment, the contacts inside the thermostat open or close, which causes an audible click. This is especially true for models with mechanical controls, such as old Indesit or Atlant.
However, if the clicks become more frequent and the cold does not build up, the problem may lie in stuck contacts or incorrect temperature settings. The start relay, located on the side of the compressor, also makes a sound when trying to start the motor. If after the click you hear a hum that lasts 2-3 seconds, followed by another click and silence, this is a sign that the relay is trying, but cannot start the engine.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a series of rapid clicks without subsequent starting of the motor, immediately unplug the device. Repeated startup attempts can lead to thermal overheating of the windings and their turn-to-turn short circuit.
To check normal operation, pay attention to the intervals. The normal mode involves operating the compressor for about 15-20 minutes and then resting. If the cycles are out of order, it is possible that the chamber is too warm or the door seal is damaged, which is why the thermostat constantly requires cooling.
Problems with the compressor starting-protective relay
The most common technical reason why the refrigerator clicksis the failure of the starting-protective relay. This small plastic block is responsible for supplying a starting impulse to the motor winding and protecting against overloads. Inside it there is a coil and a movable core, which, when heated or a certain current strength, changes position, producing a characteristic sound.
Over time, the contacts inside the relay can burn, oxidize, or simply stick. In this case, the circuit closes (click), but the current does not flow to the engine or does not flow enough to start. It is often impossible to visually determine a malfunction without opening the case, but an indirect sign is the heating of the relay itself to high temperatures during operation.
- 🔌 Burning of contacts: when the circuit is opened, a spark appears, which gradually destroys the contact surface, increasing the resistance.
- 🧲 Coil wear: the electromagnetic coil may lose its properties, and the core will stop switching correctly.
- 🌡️ Thermal protection: The bimetallic plate inside the relay can become deformed from frequent overheating and open the circuit prematurely.
Replacing the relay is a relatively simple procedure, but requiring compliance with safety precautions. It is necessary to remove the back cover, disconnect the wires and carefully remove the old unit from the compressor pipe. It is important to choose an analogue with identical characteristics, since there are no universal solutions here.
How to check a relay with a multimeter?
To check, you need to “ring” the relay contacts in different positions. In a normally closed state, the resistance should be close to zero. If the device shows infinity or jumping values, the element is faulty. You can also shake the relay: if you hear a knock inside, it means the core or coil is damaged.
Compressor malfunctions: jamming and windings
If replacing the relay did not help and the refrigerator clicksbut does not start, there is a high probability of problems with the compressor itself. This is the “heart” of the system, and its breakdowns are divided into mechanical and electrical. Mechanical jamming of the piston group occurs due to exhaustion of service life, lack of lubrication or moisture entering the system (water hammer).
In the event of an electrical malfunction, an interturn short circuit in one of the windings (starting or working) is most often diagnosed. When voltage is applied, the current increases sharply, the thermal protection is triggered and opens the circuit (click), after cooling the cycle repeats. The engine may hum and vibrate strongly.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Single click, silence | Faulty starter relay | Replacing the relay |
| Humming for 3-5 seconds, clicking | Compressor jammed | Attempt to start through a starting device or replacement |
| Series of frequent clicks | Power surges or poor contact | Checking wiring and sockets |
| Clicks without starting, heating of the case | Interturn short circuit | Replacement compressor |
Diagnostics of a compressor requires special skills and tools, such as pressure gauges and testers. You can only check the resistance of the windings on your own, but for an accurate diagnosis and, especially, replacement of the unit, it is better to turn to professionals.
The influence of power surges and wiring
Unstable power supply is the hidden enemy of household appliances. If the refrigerator clicks at moments when voltage sags are observed in the network, the starting relay may not be able to start the engine. To start, the compressor requires a current 3-5 times higher than the rated current, and at low voltage (magnetic force) the relay coil is insufficient to hold the contacts.
In addition, the reason may simply lie in poor contact in the socket or plug of the power cord. Oxidized or weakened contacts begin to spark and heat up, which is perceived by the ear as crackling or clicking sounds. Check the plug: if it is hot or has signs of melting, the problem must be addressed immediately.
- ⚡ Low voltage: The relay clicks, trying to turn on the motor, but immediately turns off due to a drop in voltage under load.
- 🔌 Poor contact: sparking at the junction of the plug and socket creates an intermittent current.
- 📉 Old wiring: a thin cable in the wall may not withstand the inrush currents of a powerful compressor.
To protect expensive equipment in unstable network conditions, it is recommended to use voltage stabilizers or control relays phases They cut off power when the parameters go beyond acceptable limits, preventing chaotic switching on and off.
Features of operation of No Frost refrigerators
In models with the system No Frost clicks can be associated not only with the compressor, but also with the operation of the defrost system. The defrost heating element, timer or defrost sensor are also switched by electrical circuits, making sounds when switching modes. If the refrigerator clicks during defrosting, this may be normal, but frequent clicks indicate a malfunction in the controller operation algorithm.
The defrost timer is a mechanical device that switches the refrigerator from the “cooling” mode to the “defrosting” mode. Inside it there is a motor and gears that make a clicking noise when turned. If the timer is stuck in an intermediate position, it may constantly click, trying to switch, but not starting either the compressor or heating element.
It is also worth paying attention to the fan. If its blades touch frozen ice or a foreign object, this can cause rhythmic knocking, which can easily be confused with relay clicks. In electronically controlled systems, failures in the control board can lead to chaotic switching of all actuators.
⚠️ Attention: In No Frost refrigerators, do not try to defrost the chamber with a knife or sharp objects. Damage to the evaporator will lead to freon leakage and expensive repairs that cannot be performed at home.
Diagnostics and troubleshooting methods
To determine exactly why The refrigerator clicksit is necessary to carry out sequential diagnostics. Start with a visual inspection: check the integrity of the cord, the condition of the outlet and the absence of external damage to the housing. Then listen to the nature of the sound: is it single or a series, is it accompanied by a humming sound?
If you have skills in working with power tools, you can remove the back panel and check the contacts on the relay and compressor. Make sure the wires are not melted and are securely seated in the terminals. To check the relay, you need to remove it and shake it - the presence of a knock inside indicates destruction of the mechanism.
☑️ Diagnostics of a clicking refrigerator
If a fault is detected in the relay or thermostat, replace them usually solves the problem. However, if a compressor failure or freon leak is suspected, further independent operation may be dangerous. In such cases, it is more rational to contact a service center.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator click but does not freeze?
Most likely, the compressor does not start due to a faulty start relay, breakage motor windings or lack of refrigerant. The relay tries to start the motor (click), but the protection immediately turns off the power.
Is it normal for the refrigerator to make clicking noises during operation?
Yes, if these are single sounds once every 20-40 minutes when the compressor or thermostat is turned on/off. This indicates normal operation of the automation.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it clicks?
If the clicks are infrequent and it gets cold, you can. If the clicks are frequent, the engine hums and does not start, operation is prohibited, as this will lead to the combustion of the compressor.
How much does it cost to replace the start relay?
The cost of the relay itself is low (usually from 500 to 1500 rubles depending on the model), but the work of a specialist in diagnostics and replacement may cost more than the part itself.