When the refrigerator Stinol stops freezing or begins to hum strangely and then suddenly stops, the owner’s first thought is often to find a fault in the electrical circuit. In the vast majority of cases, if the motor-compressor does not start, makes a clicking sound or hums for a few seconds and turns off, the culprit turns out to be starting relay. This small but critical element is responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overloads. Finding it in old Stinol models is usually not difficult, since the layout of these refrigerators is quite standard for equipment of the 90s and early 2000s.
However, just knowing that the relay exists is not enough - you need to understand how to get to it safely and correctly identify the part among other elements. The location of this component depends on the type of compressor installed in your unit, whether it is a classic piston motor or a more modern inverter version, although the latter are less common in Stinols. In this article, we will analyze in detail where exactly to look for the relay, what it looks like and what to do if you find traces of burning or melting on it.
⚠️ Attention: Before any manipulations with the electrical components of the refrigerator, be sure to disconnect the appliance from the network. Working with 220V voltage without proper qualifications and tools can be deadly.
Rear wall design and access to units
In order to find the relay, you do not need to disassemble the entire refrigerator or remove the inner lining of the chamber. All the necessary elements are located in the so-called “compressor niche”, which is located in the lower part of the rear wall of the housing. In refrigerators Stinol, especially the popular series 101, 102, 103 and 104, access to this zone is simplified as much as possible. All you need to do is remove the protective cover, which is usually a metal or plastic sheet that covers the motor and capacitor.
The mountings of the cover may vary depending on the model year. In older versions, these may be Phillips screws, while newer ones often use latches or head bolts. Dismantling this panel provides access to the “heart” of the refrigerator - the compressor, which looks like a black sealed barrel. It is on the shaft (rod) protruding from this barrel that the desired device is located.
Sometimes access can be difficult due to dust or cobwebs accumulated over years of work. Carefully remove any dirt so that all connections can be clearly seen. Please note that in some modifications of Stinol, an additional fan may be located next to the compressor (in No Frost systems), which also requires caution during operation. Do not pull the wires or apply excessive force to the plastic elements, as the plastic becomes brittle over time.
Visual identification of the starting relay
After removing the protective cover, your gaze will immediately fall on the black cylindrical or pear-shaped compressor. The relay is mounted directly on the side or end of the motor housing, in the place where three electrical contacts emerge from the sealed housing. It is a small plastic block, usually black, white or gray, about the size of a matchbox or a little larger.
To accurately identify the part, pay attention to the following signs:
- 🔌 Location: The device is placed directly on the compressor rod and secured with a bracket or clamp.
- 🔌 Wiring: A harness of two or three wires coming from a common terminal block or thermostat comes to the unit.
- 🔌 Marking: The case often has a sticker or embossed text with technical characteristics, for example, PTC or indicating the voltage
220-240V.
It is important not to confuse the starting relay with a thermal relay (thermal protection), although in modern assemblies they are often combined into one unit. If you see two separate elements connected by wires, the launcher usually has a larger housing. In Stinol refrigerators, type relays are often used RTK (starting with a posistor) or induction. Understanding the type of device will help you when looking for a replacement, since they are not always interchangeable.
Types of relays used in Stinol refrigerators
Depending on the year of production and the model of the compressor, refrigerators Stinol could use different types of starting devices. The most common are two main types: starting relays with a posistor (PTC) and induction (electromagnetic). The former are found in newer models and are considered more reliable, since they do not have moving contacts that can stick.
Induction relays, often labeled as RTK, operate on the principle of an electromagnet. Inside them there is a coil and a movable core with contacts. When voltage is applied, the coil creates a magnetic field that closes the compressor starting winding. As the engine speeds up, the current drops and the contacts open. Such devices are subject to mechanical wear and often cause the refrigerator to hum but not start.
Posistor relays (PTC) work by changing the resistance of a ceramic element when heated. When cold, the resistance is low and current flows freely through the starting winding. When heated, the resistance increases sharply, actually breaking the circuit. These elements are more compact and cheaper, but are sensitive to current overloads.
Is it possible to install a relay from another brand?
Theoretically, you can use analogues from Danfoss or Atlant if the electrical characteristics and mounting location match. However, it is better to look for original spare parts or specialized analogues for Stinol, since the mounting geometry and location of the contacts may differ, which will require alteration of the wiring.
Algorithm for dismantling and checking the device
The process of removing the relay is quite simple, but requires care. First, make sure that the refrigerator has been unplugged for at least 15-20 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge and the motor to cool down. Locate the retaining bracket or clamp that holds the unit to the compressor. Usually this is a metal strip that can be removed with light force or by pressing the clamps.
After removing the clamp, carefully pull the relay towards you. It should come off the compressor rod. Do not apply excessive force if you feel resistance - the wiring or oxidation of the contacts may be interfering. Disconnect the wire connectors. If the wires do not have connectors, but are soldered or twisted, they will have to be carefully cut (leaving a reserve for connection) or unsoldered.
Visual inspection of the removed element can tell a lot about its condition:
- 🔥 Smell: Smell the case. The smell of burning or burning plastic is a sure sign of breakdown or overheating.
- 🔥 Appearance: The presence of melting, blackening or cracks on the case indicates the need for replacement.
- 🔥 Posistor: If you disassemble the case (which is not always possible without damage), there should be no black dust or burnt elements inside.
⚠️ Attention: Shake the relay near your ear. If something dangles or rattles inside, it means that the internal components are destroyed and the device is definitely faulty. A working relay does not make sounds when shaken.
Comparative table of relay characteristics
When selecting a new part, it is important to focus not only on appearance, but also on technical parameters. Below is a table that helps to distinguish the main types of devices found in Stinol technology.
| Parameter | Induction (RTK) | Posistor (PTC) | Thermal protection relay |
|---|---|---|---|
| Principle of operation | Electromagnetic | Thermoresistive | Bimetallic plate |
| Presence of moving parts | Yes (core) | No | Yes (plate) |
| Typical malfunction | Sticking of contacts | Destruction of the ceramic element | Break circuit due to overheating |
| Location in the block | Often separately or in pairs | Often separately or in pairs | Always paired with a starting one |
Please note that in some assemblies the starting and thermal relays can be combined into a single plastic case that covers the compressor contacts. In such cases, when replacing the starting element, it is often recommended to change the thermal protection as well, since their service life is approximately the same.
Frequent errors when replacing and recommendations
One of the common mistakes is an attempt to install a relay that does not correspond to the compressor power. If you install a device designed for a lower current, it will burn out instantly. If it is larger, the compressor may not start or may work with overload. Always check the markings on the old and new element.
Another mistake is ignoring the state of the capacitor (if it is in the circuit) and contacts. Oxidized contacts on the compressor itself can cause a poor connection even with a new relay. Clean the contacts on the compressor rod with fine sandpaper or contact spray before installing the new part.
It is also important to orient the relay correctly when installing. The housing often has arrows or markings UP (top) indicating the correct position. Installation upside down may interfere with the operation of mechanical parts or thermal protection, which will lead to incorrect operation of the refrigerator.
☑️ Checklist before turning on
When professional diagnostics are required
Despite its apparent simplicity, replacing the relay does not always guarantee restoration of the refrigerator. If, after installing a new part, the engine hums but does not start, or the machine in the control panel immediately knocks out, the problem may be deeper. Perhaps the compressor itself is faulty (interturn short circuit, piston group wedge) or the wiring is broken.
In situations where you are not confident in your abilities, or if after replacing the relay the refrigerator works, but does not reach the desired temperature, it is better to contact a specialist. Compressor diagnostics require special instruments, such as a winding tester and a pressure gauge station.
Remember that incorrect installation or the use of low-quality spare parts can lead to a fire hazard or complete failure of an expensive unit. If you see that the wires have melted all the way to the compressor housing, or you feel a strong burning smell from inside the cabinet, further independent repair may not be advisable.
Is it possible to temporarily start a refrigerator without a relay?
Technically, you can start the compressor by applying voltage directly to the starting and operating windings using a button or manually closing the contacts. However, doing this is strictly not recommended for long-term work. Without a starting relay, the compressor will not turn off the starting winding, which will lead to its rapid burnout and failure of the motor. This is allowed only for short-term diagnostics.
Why does the new relay burn out after a few days?
If the new relay burns out quickly, there may be several reasons: incorrectly selected power (amperage), problems with thermal protection that does not turn off the motor when overheated, or a malfunction of the compressor itself (difficult starting, jamming). Also, the cause may be a power surge in the network, so it is recommended to use a stabilizer.
Where to buy an original relay for Stinol?
Since the brand Stinol has not been produced in its original form for a long time, you need to look for compatible spare parts. They are sold in spare parts stores for household appliances, on radio markets or specialized websites. Search by the marking of the old relay (for example, RTK-1, RTK-2, PTC, etc.) or by the model of your refrigerator.