How to replace the relay in a Stinol refrigerator: complete instructions

Sudden stoppage of the compressor is one of the most common problems faced by refrigerator owners Stinol. Often the cause of a breakdown is not the motor itself, but a failed start-up relay, which is responsible for starting the engine and protecting against overloads. If you notice that the unit hums but does not start, or, conversely, is silent, although the indicators are on, most likely this small but critical element needs to be replaced.

Replacing the relay yourself is a completely doable task for a person with basic skills in working with tools and electricity. However, it is important to understand that there is refrigerant inside the refrigeration circuit, and the electrical network is dangerous if handled carelessly. In this article, we will look in detail at how to diagnose a malfunction, select the correct analogue and safely replace it, restoring your refrigerator operability.

Before taking active steps, you need to make sure of the nature of the breakdown. Do not rush to disassemble the equipment if you have not carried out the initial diagnosis. Often users mistakenly blame the relay when the problem lies in the thermostat or wiring. Accurately identifying the symptom will help save time and money on purchasing unnecessary spare parts.

Diagnostics of starter malfunctions

The first sign of failure of the starter mechanism is a characteristic sound. If you hear a loud click followed by a humming sound from the compressor, followed by another click and silence a few seconds later, this is a sure sign. The engine tries to start, but the relay cannot close the starting winding or break the circuit in time, the thermal protection is triggered, and the cycle repeats.

Visual inspection can also provide a lot of information. If you get to the back wall of the unit, you may notice sparking in the terminal box area while the compressor is running (or trying to run). This indicates burnt contacts inside the relay. In addition, the body of the part itself may have traces of melting or a characteristic burning smell.

⚠️ Attention: If the compressor is hot to the touch and the relay clicks, do not try to start it repeatedly. This can lead to the final combustion of the motor windings, the repair of which is not economically feasible.

For more accurate diagnostics, it is necessary to “ring” the elements with a multimeter. Even if the part looks intact on the outside, the internal bimetallic plate may have lost its properties. Checking the resistance eliminates the possibility of a short circuit or open circuit, which is especially important for older models Stinol 101 or Stinol 103.

📊 What symptom is observed in your refrigerator?
It hums and clicks, but does not start
Completely silent and does not reacts
Works, but does not freeze
Crackling or sparking is heard

Preparation for repairs and safety precautions

Any work related to electrical appliances requires strict adherence to safety precautions. The first and most important rule is to completely disconnect the device from the power supply. It is not enough to simply turn off the button; you must unplug the plug from the socket. Only after this can you begin to dismantle the panels and check the components.

You will need a minimum set of tools that most men have in their homes. The main tool will be a flathead and Phillips screwdriver for removing protective covers. Also an indispensable assistant will be a multimeter (tester) for checking the integrity of circuits and winding resistance.

  • 🔧 Screwdrivers of different sizes (for housing screws and terminals).
  • 🔌 Multimeter for checking electrical parameters.
  • 🧤 Dielectric gloves for additional protection hand.
  • 📸 Smartphone for photographing the connection diagram before disassembling.

Pay special attention to the condition of the wiring. If the insulation of the wires going to the compressor is cracked or melted, simply replacing the relay will not be enough. It will be necessary to restore the insulation or replace the terminal block, otherwise the new relay will also quickly fail. In older models Stinol the wires often become tanned over time and can break when bent.

Removing the casing and dismantling the old relay

To get to the starting device, you need to remove the protective plastic casing located at the bottom of the compressor. It is usually secured with latches or screws. Be careful: plastic in refrigerators Stinol, especially those more than 10 years old, becomes brittle and can crack if moved carelessly.

After removing the casing, you will see a black cylindrical or rectangular block placed on the compressor rod. This is the part you are looking for. It can be fixed with a metal bracket or simply sit tightly on the contacts. Before removal, make sure that the capacitor (if your model has one) is discharged, although most household Stinol models use a circuit without a capacitor.

The dismantling process requires care. It is necessary to remove the retaining bracket, if present, and then carefully pull the relay down. It is held on three contacts of the compressor. Sudden movements are unacceptable, as you can damage the copper tubes or break off the contacts of the motor itself.

⚠️ Attention: Never pull the relay by the wires! You need to remove the device while holding onto its plastic body so as not to break the wiring at the soldering or crimping point.

When the relay is removed from the contacts, disconnect the wires. Depending on the model, they can be connected via a female-male connector or soldered. If the wires are soldered, they will have to be carefully cut off with side cutters, leaving enough length for subsequent stripping and connection with a new element.

☑️ Removing the relay

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Select compatible analogue for replacement

Refrigerators Stinol were equipped with compressors from various manufacturers, most often these are Danfoss (or Secop), Aspera (previously Electrolux) and Atlant. Therefore, there is no universal relay “for Stinol”. Selection is carried out strictly according to the markings on the body of the old part, or according to the model of the compressor itself.

The most common relays are the R600, RT, RSseries. For example, for compressors Danfoss relays are often used. data-i="97">or 18-223 or 18-224. For Atlant models are typical RKT-1 or P-4. It is important to pay attention to the engine power and the type of refrigerant, although the latter affects the compressor itself more than the starting device.

Compressor type Relay marking (example) Features Compatibility
Danfoss / Secop 18-223, 18-224, 18-225 High reliability, compact size Stinol 101, 103, 106
Atlant RKT-1, R-4, PZR-1 Affordable price, widespread Stinol with Atlant motor
Aspera (Embraco) 813073, 813167 Often require precise selection power Rare modifications

When purchasing, pay attention to the orientation of the contacts. Although many modern relays are universal and suitable for different positions of the rod (vertical or horizontal), it is better to choose a model that closely follows the geometry of the original. This will simplify installation and ensure proper operation of the thermal protection.

Can it be used? relay with a different marking?

In some cases, it is possible to install analogues with similar characteristics if the number of contacts and the range of operating currents are the same. However, for beginners it is better to look for an exact analogue by catalog number in order to avoid problems with starting the compressor.

Technology for installing and connecting a new relay

Installation of a new start-protective device is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. First you need to connect the wires. If the terminals on the new relay differ from the old ones, use adapters or carefully strip the ends of the wires and connect them by twisting followed by insulation, although it is better to use special clamps.

Place the relay on the compressor rod. It should fit tightly and confidently. Make sure the “UP” marking or arrow is pointing straight up if the design is intended to be in a vertical position. Incorrect orientation may result in the thermal release not operating in time, which can lead to overheating of the windings.

Secure the part with a fixing bracket, if provided by the design. After this, put on the plastic cover and return the metal back panel of the refrigerator to its place. Make sure that all screws are tight and that wires do not touch hot parts of the compressor or moving parts (if there is a fan).

⚠️ Attention: Before final assembly, make sure that the wires are not pinched by the case or touching the metal walls of the cabinet or compressor. This can lead to a short circuit.

Only after thoroughly checking all connections can you plug in the refrigerator. When starting up for the first time, listen carefully to the operation of the unit. The compressor should start with a characteristic hum, after a few seconds the click of the relay should turn off the starting winding, and the motor will go into operating mode.

Checking operation and possible errors

After turning on the refrigerator, let it run for 15–20 minutes. During this time, it should gain temperature and turn off according to the thermostat signal. If the compressor runs continuously without turning off, the problem may be not only in the relay, but also in a freon leak or a malfunction of the thermostat.

Pay attention to the temperature of the compressor housing. Normally, it should be warm or hot (up to 70–80 degrees), but not scalding. If the motor becomes hot after 5–10 minutes of operation, turn off the device immediately. This may indicate an interturn short circuit or malfunction of the newly installed relay.

A common mistake when replacing is to ignore the condition of the capacitor (if it is in the circuit). Some circuits Stinol use a capacitor to improve starting characteristics. If it is swollen or has lost capacity, the new relay will work with overload and will quickly fail.

  • ✅ The compressor started smoothly, without humming or vibration.
  • ✅ After 10-15 minutes of operation, the compressor body is evenly warm.
  • ✅ The refrigerator itself turned off after reaching temperature.
  • ❌ Extraneous knocking or strong vibration is heard.

If after replacing the relay the situation has not changed, and the motor is still humming and clicking, the compressor may have “wedged”. In this case, professional diagnostics are required with an attempt to “unwedge” the motor with a special device, but the success of such an operation is not guaranteed.

Why did the new relay burn out?

Most often this happens due to “sticking” of the contacts inside the relay itself (defect) or, more often, due to problems with the compressor. If the motor draws increased current due to wear, any relay will burn out. Also, the cause may be a power surge in the network.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to repair an old relay rather than changing it?

Theoretically, if the problem is oxidation of the contacts, they can be cleaned. However, the start relay is a consumable item. The mechanism inside wears out over time, and the bimetallic plate changes properties. Repair has a temporary effect, so replacing with a new element is a more reliable and safe solution.

Where to find the relay markings if they are erased?

If the markings on the relay itself are not readable, look for information on the nameplate (metal sticker) of the compressor itself. It indicates the motor type, voltage and often the recommended type of starter. You can also be guided by the appearance and number of contacts, comparing with spare parts catalogs.

Why does the relay click, but the compressor does not start?

This may indicate several problems: low voltage in the network, jamming of the compressor piston group, breakage of the starting winding or a malfunction of the relay itself (does not close the contacts). If, when you click, the current consumption increases sharply, but there is no rotation, most likely the motor is jammed.

How much does it cost to replace a relay at a service center?

The cost consists of the price of the spare part (usually from 500 to 1500 rubles) and the cost of the technician’s work (from 1000 to 2500 rubles depending on the region). Self-replacement allows you to save on work, since the process does not require complex equipment other than a screwdriver and a tester.