The situation when the refrigerator Stinol continues to work, but stops cooling the upper chamber, is one of the most common complaints from the owners of this equipment. Unlike models with the No Frost system, where air circulation is forced, in classic two-chamber Stinol units the cold is transmitted naturally through an evaporator located in the freezer. If the upper section turns into a “warm pantry”, this always signals a violation of heat exchange or loss of refrigerant.
Owners often do not notice the problem immediately, but only when the food in the refrigerator compartment begins to deteriorate, and the “coat” of frost disappears on the back wall. Primary diagnostics requires careful attention to the sounds of operation compressor and visual inspection of the internal space. Ignoring the first signs can lead to complete damage to inventory and costly repairs.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of operation of two-compressor and single-compressor models so that you can understand the essence of the problem. Understanding the principles of refrigerant circulation will help you distinguish a minor malfunction from a serious breakdown that requires calling a technician.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a hissing or whistling sound when the refrigerator is operating, immediately unplug the appliance. This may indicate a freon breakthrough, and further operation of the compressor at idle will lead to its combustion.
The principle of operation of the Stinol cooling system
To understand why the upper chamber does not freeze, it is necessary to briefly consider the structure of the refrigerator. Most models Stinol (especially older series) use a static cooling system. The refrigerant (freon) circulates through tubes running inside the walls of the freezer and through the weeping evaporator in the refrigerator compartment.
The key element here is thermostat or the electronic control module, which commands the compressor to turn on. In models with one compressor, cold air from the freezer partially flows down through special channels, but the main heat exchange in the upper compartment occurs through the rear wall. If the compressor is working, but there is no cold, then the temperature transmission chain is broken.
Modern modifications can be equipped with a system Low Frost or an improved version of static cooling, where the evaporator is hidden. In such cases, visual control of frost is difficult, and you have to rely only on temperature indicators inside the chambers. Violation of the tightness of the circuit or (clogging) of the capillary tube instantly stops the cooling process.
Refrigerant leak: the most common cause
The most likely reason that the Stinol refrigerator has stopped freezing in the upper chamber is a banal freon leak. Aluminum evaporators, which were often installed in past models, are susceptible to corrosion. Over time, microscopic fistulas form in the metal, through which the gas escapes into the atmosphere.
When the amount of refrigerant in the system drops below a critical level, there is not enough of it for the entire cooling circuit. First of all, the evaporator in the refrigeration chamber stops filling, since it is located further from the compressor in the direction of gas movement. The freezer can still maintain a low temperature for some time, creating the illusion of normal operation.
It is difficult to diagnose a leak on your own, but there are indirect signs:
- ❄️ There is completely no frost or condensation on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment, the wall is dry and warm.
- 🔊 The compressor works almost non-stop, trying to reach the set temperature.
- 🌡️ The condenser grill at the back of the refrigerator remains cold or lukewarm, although it should be hot.
If you encounter such symptoms, self-refilling is impossible. It is necessary to locate the leak using a leak detector, soldering and evacuating the system. This is a job for a professional technician with equipment.
Is it possible to add freon without looking for a leak?
No, this is a temporary measure. If you do not fix the hole in the circuit, the gas will leave again in a few days or weeks, and the compressor will burn out due to wear and tear.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and sensors
The second most common reason for the lack of cold in the upper compartment is the failure of the thermostat. In mechanical models, Stinol uses a capillary thermostat, the sensitive tube of which is fixed to the evaporator. If this element is “lying” or jammed, the compressor may simply not turn on or, conversely, work constantly, not allowing the system to thaw.
In models with electronic control, air sensors are also responsible for the temperature. If the sensor that controls the temperature in the refrigerator compartment fails, the control module may “think” that there is already cold and will not start the compressor. Or the system goes into error and blocks operation. defrost sensors and air sensors. If the sensor that controls the temperature in the refrigerator compartment fails, the control module may “think” that there is already cold and will not start the compressor. Or the system goes into error and blocks work.
To check the mechanical thermostat, you can perform a simple procedure:
- Disconnect the refrigerator from the network.
- Remove the regulator handle and the plastic cover.
- Short the two wires going to the thermostat directly (observing safety precautions).
- Turn on the device: if the compressor starts working and cold appears, then the thermostat is faulty.
Replacing the thermostat is a procedure that can be done with your own hands if you have basic skills. The main thing is to choose an analogue with the same temperature characteristics as the original. An incorrectly selected sensor will lead to incorrect operation of the entire system.
Problems with the fan (for No Frost models)
Although classic Stinols are often equipped drip system, there are also models with forced air circulation (No Frost). If you have just such a modification and the upper chamber does not freeze, the reason may lie in the stoppage of the evaporator fan evaporator fan.
The fan is located in the freezer and drives cold air upward into the refrigerator compartment. If it does not spin, the cold remains at the bottom, and the upper chamber is at room temperature. Fan stopping can be caused by:
- 🌀 Freezing of the blades due to a malfunction of the defrost system.
- 🔌 Broken wiring or oxidation of contacts.
- ⚙️ Mechanical wear of the fan motor bearings.
You can check the operation of the fan by opening the refrigerator door (in some models it turns off when opened, in others it continues to work). If when the door is closed you do not hear the characteristic air noise, and a block of ice freezes in the freezer, the problem is most likely in this unit.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| Noisy, but does not blow | Ice jamming | Defrost 24 hours |
| Silence, motor hums | Fan motor burned out | Replacing the fan |
| Crackling is heard | Ice hits the blades | Checking the defrost system |
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical malfunction leading to a lack of cold at the top - This is a clogged capillary tube. Not only freon circulates inside the system, but also oil to lubricate the compressor. Over time, especially if the refrigerator has been left idle for a long time or the filling has been done poorly, a plug of oil, paraffins or debris may form in the narrow part of the tube.
If clogged, freon cannot circulate freely along the circuit. The pressure at the outlet of the compressor increases, and the refrigerant does not flow into the evaporator in the required volume. As a result, the upper chamber (where the pressure is lowest) stops cooling, while the condenser may be hot and the compressor may be overloaded.
Only a specialist can diagnose a blockage based on the pressure in the system. To fix the problem you need:
- Draining the freon.
- Purge the circuit with nitrogen under high pressure.
- Replace the filter-drier (mandatory for any opening of the circuit).
- Evacuate and refill.
⚠️ Attention: Attempts to “break through” the blockage by frequently turning it on and off refrigerator can lead to rupture of tubes or failure of the compressor due to water hammer.
Depressurization of the door seal
Do not discount simple physical reasons. If the rubber seal on the door of the refrigerator compartment is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The cooling system may not be able to cope with this amount of heat, especially in summer.
You can check the tightness of the seal with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter: if it is pulled out without resistance, it means the seal is broken. In places where there is a loose fit, ice will form, and the temperature in the chamber will be higher than normal.
The problem can be solved:
- 🧼 By thoroughly washing and degreasing the seal.
- 🔥 By heating the deformed areas with a hairdryer (for straightening).
- 🔧 Replacing the sealing rubber with a new one.
☑️ Checking the seal
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why is there ice in the freezer, but not Is the refrigerator compartment warm?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or a clogged capillary system. There is not enough refrigerant to cover the entire circuit, so it only manages to cool the first section (the freezer), and does not reach the top.
How long does it take to defrost Stinol for diagnostics?
For a complete diagnosis and elimination of ice jams in the No Frost system or checking the operation of the fan, defrosting for a period is recommended minimum 24 hours with open doors. A shorter defrosting may not produce results.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it does not freeze the upper chamber?
For a short time - it is possible if the products do not require strict temperature conditions. However, prolonged operation in this mode is dangerous for the compressor, which will work to wear out, trying to achieve non-existent cold. This can lead to its combustion.
How to understand that the compressor has burned out and not a freon leak?
If the compressor hums, but does not start (you can hear a clicking and buzzing), or if it is absolutely cold and silent when the thermostat is on, it may be faulty. When there is a freon leak, the compressor usually works constantly and hot, but does not produce cold.
Is it necessary to change the filter drier during repairs?
Yes, Whenever the sealed circuit of the refrigerator is opened, the filter-drier must be replaced. The old filter becomes saturated with moisture and ceases to perform its function, which will quickly lead to new blockage or corrosion.