The situation when refrigerator shooting or makes sharp, gunshot-like sounds during work can scare any owner of household appliances. Often such noises are accompanied by crackling, clicking or buzzing sounds, which can occur at varying intervals. Understanding the nature of these sounds is critical to determining the severity of the breakdown and the need to call a repairman.
In most cases, loud clicks or “shots” do not mean instant death of the unit, but they cannot be ignored. RefrigerantCirculating through the system, or expanding metal can make sounds that are mistaken for breakdown. However, there are a number of malfunctions that require immediate attention to prevent freon leakage or failure of an expensive compressor.
This article will help you classify the sounds made by your refrigerator and understand whether this is normal or a sign of a critical malfunction. We will analyze the physical processes occurring inside the camera and engine compartment, and also point out signs that require professional repair.
Physics of the process: why sharp sounds occur
To understand why the refrigerator clicks or shoots, it is necessary to consider the thermodynamic processes occurring inside the device. The main cause of natural sounds is thermal expansion and contraction of materials. The internal walls of the chamber, the evaporator and the pipelines constantly change their temperature depending on the operating cycle of the compressor.
When the compressor turns on, the temperature in the evaporator drops sharply, causing the metal to shrink. When the motor is turned off, the reverse process occurs - heating and expansion. These microscopic changes in the volume of plastic and metal parts are often accompanied by a characteristic crackling noise, which in the silence of a night apartment can sound like a sharp shot or a strong bang. Such sounds are especially often observed in models with a system where defrosting cycles occur automatically. Ice that accumulates on the evaporator, when melting, can break off in pieces and fall noisily to the bottom of the chamber or tray, creating an impact effect. This is an absolutely normal physical process that does not require repair. sharp shot or loud bang.
Such sounds are especially often observed in models with a system No Frost, where defrosting cycles occur automatically. Ice that accumulates on the evaporator, when melting, can break off in pieces and fall noisily to the bottom of the chamber or tray, creating an impact effect. This is an absolutely normal physical process that does not require repair.
However, if the sound is accompanied by vibration of the body or is repeated with an alarming frequency, you should listen more carefully. Sometimes the cause is not the metal itself, but fastening elements that have weakened from constant vibration and began to resonate.
Normal operation of the thermostat and start relay
One of the most common causes of clicking is the operation of electrical automation. Thermoregulator (thermostat) is a device that controls the temperature inside the chamber and sends a signal to turn the compressor on or off. At the moment the contacts open or close, an electrical click occurs inside the thermostat, which is heard quite clearly.
The starting relay located on the compressor works similarly. It is necessary to start the engine and protect against overloads. If you hear a click at the moment when the engine should start, but it does not start, or immediately after stopping, this is the normal operation of the relay. The problem only arises when clicks occur in a series, and the refrigerator does not cool.
⚠️ Attention: If the clicks of the thermostat become too loud, frequent, or are accompanied by a burning smell, this may indicate burnt contacts. In this case, the thermostat requires replacement, as it may “stick” in the “on” position, causing continuous operation of the compressor and freezing of the chamber.
In modern models with electronic control, instead of mechanical clicks, a quiet crackling sound of the control board can be heard. This works as a triac or relay on an electronic board. Such sounds are usually quiet and should not disturb the user. If the clicks are loud and rhythmic, but the refrigerator does not start, the start relay protection may be triggered due to problems with the motor
Problems with the compressor: when the sound becomes dangerous
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator, and its operation is not always silent. However, there are sounds that indicate serious problems. If you hear a loud metallic clanging, knocking or a series of rapid clicks when you try to start, followed by silence, this is a sign of a malfunction of the start relay or the engine itself.
When the compressor tries to start but cannot (due to a jammed piston group or inter-turn short circuit of the windings), the start relay is activated, opening the circuit with a characteristic click. After some time, the protection is reset and the attempt is repeated. The cycle can be repeated endlessly until you disconnect the device from the network. Leaving the refrigerator in this operating mode is strictly prohibited This will lead to the combustion of the motor windings.
Another alarming symptom is a loud bang, similar to a gunshot, accompanied by a whistle or hiss. This may indicate a pipe rupture or a breakdown in the refrigerant circulation system. In this case, freon under pressure breaks out, creating a characteristic sound.
How to distinguish a normal compressor knock from an emergency one?
The normal operating knock of a compressor is a smooth, monotonous hum with a slight vibration. The emergency sound is a sharp metallic impact, clanging, squealing, or a series of chaotic clicks with pauses. If the sound changes when you press the body with your hand, most likely it is due to vibration of the pipes, and not a breakdown of the motor.
The influence of the defrosting system on the acoustic background
In refrigerators with the system No Frost or Full No Frost defrosting processes occur automatically. The heating element heats the evaporator, the ice melts, and the water flows into the drainage system. At this point, various sound effects may occur. Dripping water falling onto a hot heating element or into a pan may hiss or gurgle.
Sometimes pieces of ice, when thawing, fall from the fan blades or evaporator fins with a loud knock. If the ice block is large, the sound may be very similar to a gunshot or impact. This is especially typical for older models or appliances where the defrosting cycle is disrupted and too much ice builds up.
It is also worth mentioning the thermal expansion of plastic. Interior shelves and drawers made of polystyrene or other polymers may make loud cracking noises when the temperature changes suddenly. If you have just loaded a lot of warm food into the chamber or, conversely, defrosted the refrigerator and turned it on, such “shots” of plastic are the norm.
- 🧊 Ice collapse: Loud knocking when large pieces of ice fall in the freezer.
- 🔥 Operation of the heating element: Hissing and crackling when ice melts on the heating element.
- 🌬️ Fan: The noise of the blades touching frozen ice (requires defrosting).
If the sounds during defrosting become too loud, the water outflow may be disrupted or the defrost timer may be faulty. In this case, ice can build up on the fan, causing it to beat and make noise.
Diagnostics by type of sound emitted
To accurately determine the cause of the noise, it is important to correctly classify the sound. Different faults produce different acoustic signals. Below is a table that will help you navigate the nature of the noise and possible causes.
| Sound type | Probable cause | Degree of danger | Required actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single loud click | Thermostat operation | Safe | Observation |
| Series of clicks, no cold | Malfunction of the starting relay or compressor | Critical | Turn off, call a technician |
| Sharp bang with a whistle | Pipe rupture, freon leak | Critical | Ventilate, call a technician |
| Crackling and knocking inside the chamber | Thermal expansion, falling ice | Safe | Check the fastening of the shelves |
| Humming with a metallic clanging | Vibration of pipes against the body or wear motor | Medium | Check pipe clearance |
Use this table as a primary diagnostic tool. However, remember that acoustic effects can be subjective. What seems like a quiet crackling sound to one may be heard as a loud bang by another.
Vibration and resonance: hidden causes of noise
Often users mistake ordinary vibration noise for “shooting” or breakdown. If the refrigerator is not installed level, its legs are not adjusted, or it is standing too close to the wall, vibration from the operating compressor will be transmitted to the cabinet and surrounding objects. This can cause rattling, knocking, and even occasional loud noises when an object moves and falls.
Pay attention to the piping on the back of the refrigerator. The copper tubes through which the refrigerant circulates should not touch each other or the walls of the housing. When the compressor operates, they vibrate, and if the gap is too small, a characteristic metallic clang or clicks from impacts occurs.
To eliminate such problems, it is often enough to simply adjust the position of the refrigerator or move the tubes away by hand (only when the refrigerator is turned off and cooled down!). Also check if there are any dishes or objects on the refrigerator that could resonate.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to bend the copper pipes of the circulation system while the refrigerator is plugged in or has just been turned off. The pressure in the system is high, and damage to the tube will lead to an instant release of freon and oil, and will also require expensive repairs with filter replacement and refilling.
If the vibration comes from the compressor itself and is accompanied by a strong hum, the rubber shock absorbers on which the motor is mounted may have worn out. In this case, the vibration is transmitted to the entire body, causing a lot of noise.
Algorithm of actions when a malfunction is detected
If you hear a suspicious sound, do not panic, but act quickly and consistently. The first step is to localize the source of the noise and evaluate the accompanying symptoms. Is it cold in the cells? Does the light work? Is the motor overheated?
Carry out initial visual diagnostics. Place your hand on the body - is there any strong vibration? Listen to where the sound is coming from - above, below or behind? These observations will help the technician quickly diagnose the problem over the phone.
☑️ Primary diagnosis of noise
If you determine that the sound is not associated with thermal expansion or falling ice, and the refrigerator has stopped freezing or is working nonstop, you need to contact a service center. Independent repair of the circulation system or the electrical part of the compressor without special skills and tools is dangerous.
Remember that timely contact with specialists can save the compressor from complete failure. If the "shooting" and clicking noises are caused by problems with the start relay, replacing it is inexpensive. But if you ignore the symptom and burn the motor windings, repairs will become economically unfeasible.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator make a gunshot sound immediately after the lights are turned off?
This is a classic example of thermal expansion/contraction. When the compressor turns off, the temperature inside the system changes dramatically. Metal parts (evaporator, tubes) and plastic shrink or expand, making loud clicks or pops. This is normal.
Can a new refrigerator “shoot”?
Yes, new refrigerators often make more sounds during the break-in period. Grinding in of compressor parts occurs, as well as active thermal expansion of new materials. If the sounds are not accompanied by a lack of cold, there is no need to worry.
Is the sound of a bursting bubble inside the chamber dangerous?
If the sound resembles a bursting bubble and is accompanied by hissing, this may be a freon leak. Check if there is cold. If the refrigerator stops freezing and you can hear hissing, immediately turn it off and call a technician. Inhaling freon vapors indoors is also not recommended.
What to do if the refrigerator clicks but does not turn on?
Most likely, the start relay or the compressor itself has failed. Do not try to turn it on repeatedly - this will kill the engine. Unplug the device for 15-20 minutes, then try turning it on again. If the situation repeats (clicking and silence), repairs are needed.
Does the installation level affect the sounds of “shots”?
Indirectly - yes. If the refrigerator is not level, the body may experience additional stress (distortion), which increases the squeaks and cracks of the plastic due to temperature deformations. In addition, uneven installation increases vibration, which can cause pipes to knock.