The situation when the refrigerator Indesit turns on and turns off after a few seconds, often taking owners by surprise, causing panic due to the risk of food spoilage. This behavior of the equipment is not just a failure, but a clear signal from the protection system that normal startup compressor is impossible. In most cases, this symptom indicates an electrical malfunction in the engine starting circuit or a mechanical blockage of the piston group.
It is important to understand that short-term operation of the motor followed by a click and shutdown is a normal reaction thermal relay or the starting device to an abnormal load. If you ignore this symptom and try to constantly restart the unit manually, you can permanently damage the motor windings. In this article we will analyze in detail the main causes of such a breakdown and methods for eliminating them.
Primary diagnostics require careful attention to the sounds that the unit makes when attempting to start. A characteristic click, buzz, or complete silence can tell an experienced technician more than a visual inspection. Below we will look at the most likely failure scenarios, starting with the most common and cheapest components to repair.
Failure of the start relay
The most common reason that the refrigerator Indesit clicks and turns off is the failure of the start protection relay. This small plastic block, attached to the compressor housing, is responsible for supplying a starting pulse to the starting winding of the engine. Inside it there is a coil and a moving core, which over time can stick, oxidize, or simply lose its magnetic properties.
When the relay is faulty, current passes through the working winding, the compressor begins to hum, trying to start, but does not receive the necessary phase shift to rotate the rotor. At this moment, the current increases sharply, which leads to heating of the bimetallic plate of the thermal release. After a few seconds (usually 3 to 10), the protection relay opens the circuit, making a loud click, and the power stops completely.
Checking this element is often the first step in diagnosis. If you hear a ringing sound inside the removed relay when you shake it, this is a sure sign that the core has come off or broken. In such cases, replacing a part is a matter of a few minutes and minimal costs.
It is worth noting that replacing a relay is a procedure that is accessible even to beginners, if you follow safety precautions. However, if after installing a new part the symptoms repeat, the problem lies deeper, perhaps in the engine itself.
☑️ Diagnostics of the start relay
Problems with the thermostat or temperature sensor
The second most common The cause of cyclic switching on and off may be incorrect operation of thermostat (thermostat). This element is responsible for controlling the temperature inside the chambers and sending a signal to turn on the compressor. If the thermostat contacts are burnt or the mechanism is jammed, it can send a start impulse, but immediately open the circuit due to a false signal that the desired temperature has been reached.
In models Indesit with electronic control, a mechanical thermostat is used instead of a mechanical thermostat temperature sensor (thermistor). Its resistance changes depending on the heating, and if the sensor “lies” or has poor contact in the connector, the control board may mistakenly block the operation of the compressor, believing that the chamber is already cold, or recording a sensor error.
⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators with the No Frost system, a malfunction of the defrost sensor can also lead to chaotic behavior compressor, although more often this affects the formation of ice. Do not confuse the symptoms.
To check a mechanical thermostat, they often use the exclusion method: they close its contacts directly. If at the same time the refrigerator starts and works normally (without turning off after seconds), then the temperature controller is to blame. In electronic models, diagnostics with a multimeter is required to check the resistance of the sensor at different temperatures.
Inter-turn short circuit of the compressor windings
The most serious and expensive problem is turn-to-turn short circuit inside the compressor motor windings. In this case, the insulation of the copper wire is broken, which leads to a short circuit of some of the turns. When voltage is applied, the current increases to critical values almost instantly.
The symptoms are similar to a relay malfunction: a hum is heard, the motor jerks but does not start, and after a few seconds the thermal release turns off the power. You can distinguish between a shorted winding and a broken relay by measuring the resistance of the windings with a multimeter. If the resistance of one of the windings is significantly lower than normal or equal to zero, the compressor is faulty.
It is absolutely impossible to operate a unit with such a fault. Attempts to turn it on frequently will lead to overheating of the oil, decomposition of freon and, ultimately, to complete jamming of the piston group. Repair in this case only means replacing the compressor, since rewinding at home is impossible and economically unfeasible.
Why does the compressor burn out?
A frequent cause of an interturn short circuit is prolonged operation under overheating conditions (the capacitor at the back is clogged) or voltage surges in the network that are not smoothed out by the network filter.
Compressor jamming (water hammer)
Sometimes the electrical part is working, the relay is new, and the windings are intact, but the engine physically cannot turn over. This phenomenon is called jamming. It can occur due to wear-out of rubbing parts, lack of lubrication, or, more often than not, due to inactivity, due to water hammer. Liquid freon or oil enters the compression chamber, blocking the piston.
At the moment of switching on, the compressor tries to make a move, but the piston rests against an incompressible liquid or a jammed part. The motor hums, the shaft does not rotate, the current increases, and the protection turns off the power. In some cases, if the jamming is not severe, the so-called “increased voltage method” or applying an impulse through a special block to rip the piston out of place helps, but this is work for professionals.
If the refrigerator has been turned off for a long time, before turning it on, it is advisable to keep it in a warm room for several hours so that the oil flows into the crankcase. A sharp start in the cold increases the viscosity of the oil and the risk of jamming.
Faulty wiring and contacts
The condition of the electrical circuits cannot be discounted. Oxidized contacts in connectors, frayed wires, or a poor connection between the plug and the socket can create high contact resistance. When trying to start, the compressor consumes a large starting current, a voltage drop occurs at a poor contact, and the motor stalls without gaining speed.
Particular attention should be paid terminal box to the compressor. If moisture gets in there or carbon deposits form, the contact will be unstable. It is also worth checking the condition of the power cable and socket: if the plug heats up during operation, it means that the contact is broken there.
Diagnostics are carried out by testing the circuit from the plug to the entrance to the compressor. All connections must be tight, the wires must be intact, without traces of melted insulation.
Symptom diagnosis table
To simplify the initial diagnosis, we suggest referring to the summary table. It will help to compare the observed signs with the probable cause of the breakdown.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Characteristic sound | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| Buzzing for 3-5 seconds, clicking, silence | Starting relay or jamming | Smooth humming, then click | Low / High |
| Turns on, runs for 1 minute, off | Thermostat or overheating | Operation without extraneous noise | Medium |
| Quiet hum, no click | Breakage of windings or wiring | Barely audible hum or silence | High |
| Strong vibration and knocking | Destruction of the motor mount | Knocking, clanging, body vibration | Average |
Methods for self-remediation
If you decide to try to fix the problem yourself, start by replacing the starting relay. This is the cheapest and most likely reason. Before starting work, be sure to unplug the refrigerator! Remove the rear protective cover, disconnect the wires and carefully remove the relay from the compressor contacts.
Install the new part, strictly observing the position (usually the relay has a mark UP or an arrow pointing up). If after replacement the refrigerator starts up and starts freezing, the problem is solved. If the symptom persists, it is likely that the compressor will need to be replaced or a more in-depth diagnosis of the electronics.
⚠️ Attention: When working with the refrigeration circuit (compressor replacement), the system must be evacuated and charged with freon. It is impossible to do this on your own without equipment. Do not open the tubes unless necessary.
In cases when it comes to electronics or replacing a motor, it is better to contact a specialized service. Professional repair will extend the life of your Indesit and guarantees safe operation.
Is it possible to close the relay directly?
Theoretically, you can start the motor by applying voltage directly to the working winding, but without a starting winding it will not pick up speed and will burn out. Experiments with electricity are dangerous.
Prevention of compressor breakdowns
To avoid repeating the situation when the refrigerator turns on and immediately turns off, it is important to follow the operating rules. Regularly clean the condenser (grid at the back) of dust, since overheating is the main enemy of the compressor. Ensure ventilation of the rear wall by moving the unit away from the wall at least 5-7 cm.
It is also recommended to use a voltage stabilizer if surges are observed in your network. Sudden voltage drops often cause failure of starting equipment and motor windings. Taking good care of your equipment significantly reduces the risk of costly breakdowns.
Make sure the door seals are tight. If the rubber band does not fit tightly, the compressor is forced to work almost non-stop, which leads to its overheating and reduced service life. Timely defrosting (for drip systems) is also mandatory.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How much does it cost to replace the start relay with Indesit?
The cost of the part itself usually ranges from 300 to 800 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and models. The work of a replacement technician can cost from 1000 to 2000 rubles, although you can replace it yourself in 10 minutes.
Can a refrigerator start working on its own after being idle?
If the reason was oil solidification or water hammer, then after a long shutdown (more than 24 hours) in a warm room, starting is possible. However, if the problem is in the electrics (relay, windings), nothing will be restored by itself.
Why does the refrigerator turn off again after replacing the relay?
This means that the reason is not in the relay. Most likely, the compressor itself is faulty (jammed or shorted) or there are problems with the thermostat. The new relay simply performs its protection function by turning off the faulty motor.
Is it dangerous to leave the refrigerator in this condition?
Yes, it is dangerous. Constant attempts to start a faulty compressor lead to its overheating, destruction of the winding insulation and can cause a fire or short circuit in the apartment wiring.
How to understand that it is the compressor that has burned out?
If the multimeter shows a winding resistance close to zero (short circuit) or infinity (break), and also if the housing is pierced to ground (the resistance between the contact and the copper tube is not infinite), the compressor is considered faulty.