The question of when to take dahlias out of the refrigeratorbecomes critically important for gardeners with the onset of the first warm days. An incorrectly chosen time can lead to weak shoots being pulled out or, conversely, to a late start of the growing season, which will shorten the flowering period. The optimal moment depends on the climate zone and the method of further growing flowers.
Storing tubers in refrigeration chamber or a specialized cellar allows you to keep the planting material in a state of deep dormancy. However, as soon as external conditions begin to change, biological processes inside the tuber start automatically. It is important not to miss this moment and to properly organize the transition period.
In this article we will analyze in detail the physiological characteristics of the crop, calculate the exact dates for different regions and consider a step-by-step algorithm of actions. Compliance with technology awakening guarantees the receipt of powerful, healthy seedlings, ready for planting in open ground without stress.
Biological rhythms and dormancy state of tubers
The winter storage period is characterized by deep physiological dormancy, during which metabolism in dahlia tubers is minimal. At this time, even under favorable conditions (warmth and moisture), the buds do not begin to grow. However, by spring, deep dormancy gives way to forced dormancy, when germination requires only warmth and moisture.
If you are wondering when to take out dahlias, pay attention to the storage temperature. At +3...+5°C, vital processes are greatly slowed down, but not stopped completely. The tubers continue to breathe and evaporate moisture, using up accumulated reserves of nutrients.
What happens inside the tuber?
At rest, the cells of the root tuber retain turgor, but do not divide. As the temperature rises, enzymes are activated that break down starch into sugars, which provides energy for the growth of new cells.
Long-term storage without signs of awakening can lead to depletion of planting material. That is why it is important to know the timing when it is necessary to obtain tubers for inspection and preparation. Early extraction without the ability to provide additional lighting will lead to the formation of pale, brittle sprouts.
Calculation of optimal dates by region
The main guideline for the gardener is the date of the intended planting of seedlings in open ground. From this date you need to count back 15–20 days. This is exactly how long it takes for tubers to awaken, process and produce high-quality sprouts.
In the southern regions, where the soil warms up already at the end of April, dahlias can be taken out of storage in early or mid-March. In central Russia and the Moscow region, this period shifts to the beginning or middle of April. For the Urals and Siberia, the optimal time is considered to be the end of April or even the beginning of May.
Do not rush to extract the tubers if you do not plan to use phytolamps. Natural light in March-April it is often insufficient, which leads to the sprouts being pulled out. It’s better to be a little late than to get weak seedlings.
⚠️ Attention: If the tubers were stored late and have signs of premature awakening (thin white threads), they should be taken out immediately, regardless of the calendar, and placed in a bright, cool place.
Preparation of the place and equipment for awakening
Before getting the planting material, you need to prepare the room. The temperature in the room where the tubers will lie should be +15...+20°C. A sharp change in temperature from refrigeration +4°C to room temperature +25°C will become a strong stress for the plant.
You will need a wide tray, box, or just free space on the floor, covered with paper or film. Prepare disinfectants in advance: a solution of potassium permanganate, fungicides (for example, Maxim or Fundazol) and tools for cleaning sections.
☑️ Preparation for extracting dahlias
Pay special attention to lighting. The place for germination should be well lit, but without direct sunlight, which can burn the tender sprouts. If there is little natural light, check in advance the operation of phytolamp or fluorescent lamps.
Step-by-step instructions: extraction and initial inspection
The process of removing tubers from the refrigerator requires care. Remove the packaging (newspaper, bag of sawdust or vermiculite) and leave it at room temperature for 1–2 hours. This will allow the plant tissues to adapt without heat shock.
After adaptation, unpack the tubers and carefully inspect them. A healthy tuber should be elastic, with a living, wet root collar. If you find soft, blackened areas, they must be immediately removed to healthy tissue.
| Tuber condition | Action | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Elastic, buds dormant | Soak in stimulator | Growth activation |
| There are rotten areas | Cut to living tissue | Prevention of infection |
| Wrinkled, flabby | Wrap in a damp cloth | Restoring turgor |
| Thin white sprouts | Break off, process | Stimulation of new buds |
All Be sure to treat the cuts with crushed charcoal, brilliant green or sulfur. This will create a protective barrier for the penetration of pathogenic bacteria. After sanitization, the tubers are ready for the next stage - awakening.
Methods of awakening and stimulating growth
There are several ways to awaken dahlias after winter. The most common is germination in boxes with substrate. A layer of peat or sawdust is poured onto the bottom of the box, the tubers are laid and covered so that the root collar remains open.
The second method is wet germination. The tubers are placed in a box without soil, periodically sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This method is good because it allows you to control the appearance of sprouts and timely division of tubers tuber division.
⚠️ Attention: Do not allow the root collar to dry out. It is in this part of the plant that there are dormant buds, and if it dries out, you may not be able to wait for new shoots.
To speed up the process, you can use solutions of growth stimulants, such as Epin or Zircon. Processing is carried out immediately after removal from the refrigerator. This is especially true for old tubers that lose germination.
Dividing tubers: timing and technology
Dividing dahlias is a mandatory procedure for obtaining abundant flowering and rejuvenation of the plant. It is best to carry it out after the buds on the root collar wake up and become noticeable (swell). Dividing blind tubers is risky - you may not get into the growth zone.
Use a sharp, disinfected knife to cut the tuber vertically so that on each division a part of the root collar with 1-2 eyes remains. Large tubers can be divided into several parts. The cut areas are dried and treated with a fungicide.
Don’t be afraid to cut dahlias. Delenka with one eye gives a stronger plant and more flowers than a whole tuber with ten sprouts, which will compete with each other for food.
⚠️ Attention: Rules of agricultural technology and recommendations for varieties can be adjusted by breeders. Always check the instructions on the packaging of a particular variety, as some new products may have awakening characteristics.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to get dahlias if they already have long white sprouts?
Yes, it is possible and necessary. Such sprouts most likely formed due to the elevated temperature in the storage. They should be carefully broken off, the tuber examined for rot and placed in the light to awaken new, stronger buds.
What to do if the dahlia tubers have shriveled over the winter?
Wrinkling indicates loss of moisture. Before germination, such tubers must be wrapped in a damp (but not wet) cloth or placed in a box with wet sawdust for 1-2 days to restore tissue turgor.
Do tubers need to be treated before laying for germination?
Treatment with fungicides (for example, potassium permanganate or special preparations) is highly desirable. This reduces the risk of developing fungal diseases that can destroy planting material in heat and moisture.
Is it possible to germinate dahlias directly in pots?
Yes, this is a convenient method, especially for early flowering varieties. The tubers are planted in pots with soil, leaving the neck open. However, make sure that the earthen lump is not too wet, otherwise the tuber may rot before sprouts appear.