The refrigerator compressor “goes into a vacuum”: 7 reasons and how to fix

Have you noticed that the refrigerator has stopped freezing, and instead of the usual hum, the compressor makes strange clicks or is completely silent? In this case, the body of the unit may heat up, and the temperature in the chambers may rise. Most likely, the compressor has “gone into vacuum”: a term that technicians use to describe a condition when the engine tries to start, but cannot create the necessary pressure in the system. This problem occurs in both old Samsung RL-33and new Liebherr CNef 4815, and it cannot be ignored - without repair, the refrigerator will fail completely.

In this article we will examine physical reasons compressor vacuuming, from a jammed piston to a refrigerant leak, and also give step-by-step instructions for diagnosis. You will learn what sounds a working motor should make, how to check the windings with a multimeter, and when you should call a technician instead of doing the repair yourself. We will pay special attention typical mistakesthat users make when trying to “reanimate” the refrigerator - for example, repeatedly turning the power on/off, which only aggravates the breakdown.

Important: if the compressor has already “failed” vacuum”, this means that the pressure in the system is broken, and simply disconnecting from the network will not solve the problem. Further operation can lead to burnout of the motor windings due to increased load - in this case, repairs will cost 70–80% of the cost of a new refrigerator. Therefore, you need to act quickly and competently.

What does “the compressor has gone into vacuum” mean?

The term “vacuum” is used here conditionally. In fact, we are talking about vacuum in the discharge linewhen the compressor cannot create enough pressure to circulate the refrigerant. Normally, the motor should:

• 🔹 Start after a command from the thermostat (relay click).
• 🔹 Increase pressure in the circuit (a uniform hum is heard).
• 🔹 Turn off after reaching the set temperature.

If the compressor has “gone into vacuum”, it is either does not start at all (only relay clicks are heard), or works intermittently — It buzzes for 1-2 seconds and turns off. In this case, the motor housing may become very hot, and the refrigerator may stop freezing.

The reasons for this behavior are divided into two groups:

⚠️ Attention: If the compressor clicks but does not start, DO NOT try to turn on the refrigerator again at short intervals. Each unsuccessful start increases the risk of windings burning out due to current surges.

Top 7 reasons why the compressor “goes into vacuum”

Let's consider the most common faults, starting with the easiest to diagnose.

1. Faulty start relay

The relay is responsible for starting the compressor. If it fails, the motor will not receive the required impulse and will be “silent” or make clicking noises. Signs:

• 🔊 The compressor does not hum, it only clicks at intervals of 5-10 seconds.
• 🔥 The relay body is hot (you can check it with your hand after turning off the power).
• 🛠️ Burnt marks are visible on the relay contacts areas.

How to check: disconnect the relay and shake it - if you hear a knock, it means the core is not fixed (replacement is required). You can also test the contacts with a multimeter in resistance mode.

2. Break or inter-turn short circuit of the windings

If the compressor windings are damaged, the motor will not be able to create a magnetic field to start. Symptoms:

• 🔌 The refrigerator does not respond when plugged in.
• 🔥 The compressor housing heats up quickly.
• 📉 The multimeter shows an open (resistance → ∞) or short circuit (resistance → 0).

Diagnostics: turn off the refrigerator, remove the cover from the compressor terminals and measure the resistance between the terminals:

• 🔹 C (common) → S (start winding): 20–40 Ohm.
• 🔹 C → R (working winding): 10–20 Ohm.
• 🔹 S → R: the sum of the two previous values (30–60 Ohm).

If the values are outside the normal range, the compressor must be replaced.

3. Refrigerant leak

When freon leaks, the pressure in the system drops and the compressor runs “idle”. Signs:

• ❄️ The refrigerator does not freeze, but the motor is humming.
• 🔍 Oil stains are visible on the tubes or soldering areas.
• 📉 Suction pressure (pressure gauge on the service port) is below 0.1 MPa.

It is impossible to eliminate the leak on your own - it requires evacuation of the systemsoldering and refilling with freon. Typically, leakage occurs in places:

• 🔹 Capillary tube (often rubbed against the body).
• 🔹 Evaporator (corrosion of aluminum tubes).
• 🔹 Condenser (mechanical damage).

4. Compressor jamming

If the piston or bearings of the compressor are jammed, the motor will not be able to rotate. This is one of the most serious breakdowns, since Attempts to force-start the motor can lead to winding burnout. Signs:

• 🔇 The compressor does not make any sounds (not even clicks).
• 🔥 The motor housing is very hot.
• 🛠️ When you try to rotate the shaft manually (through the pulley), resistance is felt.

Causes of jamming:

• 🔹 Lack of oil (leakage or evaporation).
• 🔹 Moisture ingress into the system (acid formation).
• 🔹 Bearing wear (natural after 10+ years of operation).

⚠️ Attention: If the compressor is stuck, DO NOT try to start it “from the pusher” (for example, by turning the shaft with a screwdriver). This can lead to breakage of the windings or damage to the valves.

5. Capillary tube clogged

The capillary tube is a thin channel through which freon enters the evaporator. If it becomes clogged (for example, with oil decomposition products or moisture), the pressure in the system drops and the compressor cannot pump refrigerant. Signs:

• 🔊 The motor runs without stopping, but there is no cold.
• 🔥 The condenser (grid at the back of the refrigerator) is cold.
• 📊 The discharge pressure is above normal (can be checked with a pressure gauge).

To eliminate the blockage, you need purging the system with nitrogen or replacing the capillary tube. It is impossible to do this on your own without special equipment.

6. Malfunction of the thermostat or control board

If the thermostat or electronic control unit (in models with No Frost) is faulty, the compressor may not receive a signal to start. Symptoms:

• 🔌 The refrigerator does not turn on at all (no sounds).
• 🔄 The light inside is on, but the motor does not work.
• 📉 The multimeter shows an open circuit in the thermostat circuit.

Check thermostat:

1. Disconnect the thermostat terminals.
2. Short them together (jumper wire).
3. If the compressor starts, the thermostat is faulty.

7. Problems with the capacitor

The capacitor (starting or running) helps the compressor start. If it swells or loses capacity, the motor will not be able to create enough force. Signs:

• 🔊 The compressor hums, but does not start.
• 🔋 The capacitor is swollen or electrolyte has leaked.
• 📉 Capacity is below nominal (checked with a multimeter with function Cx).

Replacing a capacitor is one of the few breakdowns that you can fix yourself. The main thing is to choose an analogue with the same parameters (uF i Volt).

How to diagnose the problem yourself?

Before calling a technician, you can carry out an initial diagnosis. You will need:

• 🔧 Screwdriver (phillips/flat head).
• 📊 Multimeter (to check resistance).
• 👂 Smartphone (to record operating sounds refrigerator).

Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 10 minutes

Check if the power indicators are on

Record operating sounds (clicks, humming, silence)

Ring the compressor windings multimeter

Inspect the start relay for burning-->

Step 1: Check power supply and indication

Make sure that:

• 🔌 The refrigerator is connected to a working outlet (check with others appliance).
• 🔄 The power cord is not damaged.
• 💡 The light inside the refrigerator lights up when the door is opened.

If there is no indication, the problem is in the electrics (wiring, plug, control board).

Step 2: Sound analysis

Turn on the refrigerator and record the sounds:

• 🔊 Clicks without buzzing → faulty relay or windings.
• 🔊 Humming for 1-2 seconds and shutting down → jammed or low pressure.
• 🔊 Continuous humming without cooling → freon leak or blockage.
• 🔊 Silence → break in windings or problem with thermostat.

Step 3: Checking the compressor with a multimeter

Turn off the refrigerator, remove the cover from the compressor terminals and measure the resistance between the terminals C, S and R (markings are on the case). Normal values:

• 🔹 C-S: 20–40 Ohm (starting winding).
• 🔹 C-R: 10–20 Ohm (working winding).
• 🔹 S-R: sum C-S + C-R.

If at least one value is equal 0 (short circuit) or ∞ (open) - the compressor is faulty.

Step 4: Inspecting the start relay

Remove the relay from the compressor and check:

• 🔹 Presence of a knock when shaking (the core is not fixed).
• 🔹 Burnt or melted contacts.
• 🔹 Spring integrity (in mechanical relays).

If the relay is faulty, you can replace it yourself (cost - from 500 to 2000 rubles depending on the model).

⚠️ Attention: When replacing the relay, DO NOT use analogs from other refrigerator models - even if they are similar in appearance. The current and voltage parameters may differ, which will lead to the compressor burning out.

Step 5: Checking the thermostat

In mechanical refrigerators (for example, Atlant MXM-1708), the thermostat can be checked by closing its contacts with a jumper. If the compressor starts, the thermostat is faulty. In electronic models (for example, Bosch KGE39AW20), diagnostics of the control board will be required.

What to do if the compressor has already “gone into the vacuum”?

If the diagnostics have confirmed that the compressor is faulty, proceed according to the algorithm:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network

Do not try to turn it on again - each start increases the risk of burning out the windings. If the motor is already overheated, let it cool for 1-2 hours.

2. Assess the feasibility of repair

The cost of repair depends on the cause:

If the refrigerator is more than 10 years old, replacing the compressor may not be cost-effective - it’s cheaper buy a new one.

3. Self-repair (if possible)

You can replace:

• 🔧 Starting relay.
• 🔋 Capacitor.
• 🌡️ Thermostat (in mechanical models).

For other work you will need a master:

• 🔧 Replacing the compressor.
• 🔧 Eliminating freon leaks.
• 🔧 Blowing the capillary tubes.

⚠️ Attention: When replacing the compressor, the master must required:

• 🔹 Evacuate the system (at least 30 minutes).
• 🔹 Refill the exact amount freon (according to the label on the compressor).
• 🔹 Check the system for leaks (pressure testing with nitrogen).

If at least one of the points is ignored, the breakdown will recur within 1-2 months.

4. The choice of the technician

When choosing a service center, pay attention to:

• 📜 Availability of a guarantee for work (minimum 6 months).
• 🛠️ Use of original spare parts (ask for certificates).
• 📋 Reviews about a specific master (not only company).

Average cost of work in Moscow:

• 🔹 Diagnostics: 1000–1500 rubles.
• 🔹 Replacement of the compressor: 8000–15000 rubles (with refills).
• 🔹 Fixing the leak: 3000–6000 rubles.

What will happen if you do not repair a refrigerator with a “vacuum” in the compressor?

If you ignore the problem, after 1-3 months:

1. The compressor windings will burn out. (repair will become impossible).

2. Due to overheating, the wires or relay contacts will melt.

3. Acid will form in the system (due to oil decomposition), which will destroy the copper tubes.

As a result, the refrigerator will have to be disposed of, since the cost of repairs will exceed 80%. data-i="269">🔥 Near the stove or radiator (minimum distance - 50 cm).

Prevention: how to avoid “vacuum” in the compressor?

To extend the life of your compressor, follow these recommendations:

1. Correct installation of the refrigerator

Do not place the refrigerator:

• 🔥 Near the stove or battery (minimum distance - 50 cm).
• 🌞 In direct sunlight.
• 🚪 Close to the wall (a gap of 5-10 cm is needed for ventilation).

Optimal room temperature: +16…+32°C.

2. Regular cleaning

Every 6 months:

• 🧹 Clean the rear grille (condenser) from dust.
• 🧽 Wipe the door seal with a weak soda solution.
• 🔍 Check that the drainage system hose is not pinched.

3. Load control

Do not allow:

• 🔌 Frequent switching on/off (interval of at least 5 minutes).
• 🥶 Overloading the freezer (maximum 2/3 of the volume).
• 🔥 Defrosting with hot objects (hairdryer, boiling water).

4. Timely defrosting

For refrigerators with a drip system (Indesit BIAA 13, Beko CN 325220):

• 🔹 Defrost at least once every 6 months.
• 🔹 Do not use sharp objects to remove ice.

For systems No Frost (Samsung RB-30 J3200SA, LG GA-B489YVQZ):

• 🔹 Once a day is enough year.
• 🔹 Monitor the operation of the fan (there should be no extraneous noise).

5. Voltage control

The compressor is sensitive to voltage surges. Use:

• 🔌 Voltage stabilizer (if there are frequent power surges). fluctuations).
• 🔋 Uninterruptible power supply (for expensive models).

Optimal voltage for the refrigerator: 220V ± 10%.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about “vacuum” in the compressor

Is it possible to replace the compressor yourself?

Theoretically yes, but in practice this requires:

• 🛠️ Special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauges, soldering torch).
• 📜 Knowledge about the types of freon and oil (they must match the original).
• 🔧 Experience in soldering copper tubes (in case of leakage).

Without this, the risk of re-breakage is 90%. It is better to entrust the work to a specialist.

How long can you store food if the compressor does not work?

Depends on the type of refrigerator:

• 🔹 Normal (without No Frost): 4-6 hours (with the door closed).
• 🔹 No Frost: 8–12 hours (due to thermal insulation).
• 🔹 Freezer compartment: up to 24 hours (if not opened).

After this, the temperature will rise higher +4°Cand the food will start deteriorate.

Why does the new compressor “go into vacuum” again?

Causes of relapse:

• 🔹 Poor vacuumization of the system before refueling.
• 🔹 Use of inappropriate freon or oil.
• 🔹 Residual moisture in the system (leads to capillary blockage).
• 🔹 Unrepaired leak (if there was one before replacement).

Ask the master for a certificate of work performed indicating the type of freon and vacuumization time.

Can “vacuum” in the compressor be caused by a voltage surge?

Yes, but indirectly. A power surge can:

• 🔹 Burn the compressor windings (then it will not start at all).
• 🔹 Damage the control board, which does not give a start signal.
• 🔹 Disable the start relay.

The surge itself does not create a “vacuum”, but can become a trigger for mechanical failure (for example, jamming due to overheating).

Is it worth repairing a refrigerator older than 10 years?

It is economically feasible if:

• 🔹 The cost of repairs does not exceed 30-40% of the price of a new refrigerator.
• 🔹 The body and seals are in good condition.
• 🔹 The model is reliable (for example, Zanussi ZRA 32100, Stinol STN 167).

In other cases, it is better to buy a new one - modern models consume less 30–50% less electricity.