Disassembling a refrigerator compressor for copper: a complete guide

Many owners of old or faulty household appliances think about what to do with a failed unit, and often consider the option disassembling the refrigerator compressor as a way to obtain color metal Indeed, hidden inside the sealed casing are valuable resources such as copper, steel and sometimes even precious metals in the contacts. However, this process is not as simple as it may seem at first glance, and requires strict safety measures.

Before proceeding with dismantling, you need to realize that the standard one is a sealed system under pressure. There may be refrigerant and special compressor oil inside which, if not handled correctly, can be harmful to health or the environment. In addition, the design itself is designed to withstand high loads, which makes disassembling it at home a labor-intensive and potentially dangerous task without the appropriate tools. refrigeration compressor - This is a sealed system under pressure. There may be refrigerant and special compressor oil inside which, if not handled correctly, can be harmful to health or the environment. In addition, the structure itself is designed to withstand high loads, which makes disassembling it at home a labor-intensive and potentially dangerous task without the appropriate tools.

The purpose of this article is to provide comprehensive information about the internal structure of the unit, the necessary tools and a step-by-step algorithm for those who have decided to engage in recycling professionally. We will look at what types of windings are found, how to remove them correctly and what absolutely should not be done so as not to harm yourself. Remember that the discharge outlet is always under residual pressure, even if the compressor has not worked for yearstherefore, the first stage should always be devoted to the safe release of gases.

Compressor design and resource assessment

For effective disassembly, it is important to understand what exactly are you dealing with? A standard piston compressor is a sealed steel casing containing an electric motor and a mechanical compressor part. The main value for the person handing over the metal is copper winding the stator, which makes up a significant part of the weight of the electric machine. Depending on the model and year of manufacture, the amount of copper can vary from 300 grams to 1.5 kilograms.

Inside the casing there are alsostator (fixed part of the engine), rotor (rotating part), shaft, piston group and valve system. All these elements are filled with oil and fit tightly to each other. Copper in modern units is of high quality, but its extraction requires destruction of the integrity of the stator, since it is tightly seated in the housing and is often filled with varnish or compound to protect against vibration.

⚠️ Attention: Internal pressure in the system can persist for years. Before starting any cutting or drilling work, make sure that the refrigerant is completely removed through the process connection in a well-ventilated area or outdoors.

It is also worth noting the differences between models from different manufacturers. For example, units Danfoss or Secop may have a slightly different arrangement of internal elements compared to domestic analogues like Atlant or Biryusa. However, the general principle of constructing the electromechanical part remains the same for most piston models, which makes it possible to develop a universal algorithm of actions.

Required tools and safety measures

Disassembly a sealed unit is impossible without a powerful tool. Ordinary wrenches and screwdrivers are not enough here, since the housing is designed to be explosion-proof and high pressure. You will need an angle grinder (grinder) with metal discs, a powerful hacksaw or, ideally, a reciprocating saw. To extract copper, you will also need a chisel, a heavy hammer and possibly a sledgehammer.

Safety must come first. When working with an angle grinder and metal shavings, be sure to use safety glasses and thick gloves. Copper wire, once the varnish is removed, becomes razor-sharp and can cause serious cuts. In addition, when insulation is burned (if you decide to go this route, which is not recommended), toxic substances are released, so it is necessary respirator with high-quality filters.

• 🛡️ Means protection: Goggles, gloves, respirator, thick clothing with long sleeves.
• 🔧 Cutting tools: A grinder (angle grinder) with 1-1.5 mm discs, a hacksaw for metal.
• 🔨 Impact tools: Hammer, chisel, sledgehammer for knocking out the core.
• 🔥 Additional: Blowtorch or burner (for firing, with caution), containers for oil.

It is important to prepare the workplace. It is best to carry out work outdoors or in a garage with good ventilation, since when cutting and disassembling, residual oil will leak out, which has a specific odor and requires disposal. Do not forget to also prepare a container for collecting compressor oilwhich should not be poured into the ground or sewer.

Preparation for disassembly: removal of refrigerant and oil

The first stage of preparation is the removal of the working fluid from the system. Even if the refrigerator has been idle for many years, pressure remains in the circuit. To do this, you need to use wire cutters or saw through the copper process pipe, which usually sticks out of the casing. This must be done sharply so that the gas stream does not get into the eyes, and always in the open air.

After bleeding the gas, remove the oil. To do this, turn the compressor over and allow the oil to drain into the prepared container. The process can take from 30 minutes to several hours, since the oil is thick and viscous. Some craftsmen recommend slightly warming the body with a hair dryer or placing the unit in the sun to reduce the viscosity of the liquid and speed up its release.

When the main liquids have been removed, you can begin dismantling external reinforcement. Cut off any protruding copper tubing flush with the body so that it does not interfere with further cutting. Also remove the starting relay and thermal protection, if they are still attached to the contact group, since they also contain non-ferrous metal (copper in the contacts, steel in the housing).

Opening the sealed casing

The most labor-intensive stage is opening the steel “can.” There are several ways to do this. The fastest, but dirtiest and most dangerous is piercing the body with a sledgehammer or drilling many holes around the perimeter of the weld, followed by splitting. However, to preserve the integrity of the internal elements and ease of work, it is better to use careful cutting.

The best option is to use a reciprocating saw or grinder. It is necessary to make a circular cut strictly along the weld seam connecting the upper and lower casing covers. Be careful: the grinder disc can jam in the metal, and sparks can ignite the remaining refrigerant vapor or oil, so work must be carried out extremely carefully.

After the seam has been sawn, remove the top cover. The internal structure will open before you: an electric motor dipped in oil, and a mechanical part. Often the motor is mounted on springs inside the casing, but in older models it may be rigidly fixed. Now access to copper winding is open, but it is still difficult to remove it.

⚠️ Attention: When cutting the casing with a grinder, use only new discs. A dull disc can burst at high speeds, causing serious injury. Also make sure that sparks do not fly onto flammable objects.

Removing the stator and dismantling the winding

To get to the copper, you need to remove the stator from the motor housing. To do this, you often have to disassemble the mechanical part or drill out the fasteners. The stator is a package of metal plates, in the grooves of which there is copper wire. In some cases, it is easier to knock the stator out of the motor casing along with the rotor, and then work with it separately.

There are two main ways to extract copper:mechanical and thermal. Mechanical involves sawing the winding on one side of the stator and pulling out bundles of wire on the other side. To do this, use a chisel and a hammer to cut the wire, or a grinder to cut off the “ears” of the winding. This is a long and labor-intensive process that requires physical effort.

The thermal method (firing) involves burning varnish insulation and wooden or plastic gaskets. The stator is placed in a fire or oven and heated red hot. The varnish fades and the copper becomes soft and easily separates from the iron. However, this method has significant drawbacks: acrid smoke is released, and copper loses some of its properties and weight due to oxidation, which reduces its acceptance cost.

When mechanical removal, it is important not to damage the wire itself with unnecessary blows, so as not to create many small pieces that are more difficult to weigh and hand over. Try to pull out the wire in solid bundles. If the winding is very tight, you can use a metal rod, inserting it between the core and the turns, and use a lever to loosen it.

Sorting metals and waste disposal

After successfully extracting the copper, you will be left with a mountain of scrap metal. It is important to correctly sort the received materials for maximum profit. Copper is the most expensive component, followed by brass (from valves), aluminum (if present in fasteners) and black steel (stator housing and laminations).

Oil residues and contaminated rags should not be thrown into a regular trash can. They should be taken to designated hazardous waste collection points or disposed of through municipal services. An empty steel compressor casing also has value as ferrous scrap and is worth saving for scrap.

When handing over copper, collection points often check it for the presence of ferromagnetic impurities (iron). If a lot of iron plates from the core remain inside the copper bundle, the price may be lowered or counted as “copper in iron,” which is much cheaper. Therefore, try to separate the non-ferrous metal from the ferrous base as efficiently as possible.

Why does copper darken after firing?

During heat treatment, copper oxidizes, forming copper oxide on the surface. This reduces the electrical conductivity and weight of the metal, so burnt copper is valued lower than clean, shiny wire obtained mechanically.

Economic feasibility and risks

Is the game worth the candle? If we consider disassembling one compressor for the sake of obtaining copper, then the economic benefit may be questionable given the costs of electricity, tools and, most importantly, time. However, if you have accumulated several dozen units, the activity can become profitable. One kilogram of pure copper costs significantly more than a kilogram of ferrous scrap.

The main risk is the risk of injury from the process. Opening pressure vessels, working with sharp metal edges, and using power tools all require concentration and experience. Improper disposal of chemicals (oil, refrigerant) may result in fines from environmental authorities, although controls on this are still loose in the private sector.

In addition, modern compressors are becoming more compact and contain less copper. Manufacturers are optimizing designs, replacing copper elements with aluminum where possible, or reducing the cross-section of windings due to better insulation. Therefore, the amount of copper in new models may be less than in old Soviet units.

⚠️ Attention: Prices for non-ferrous metals are constantly fluctuating (changing). Before starting mass dismantling, check the current prices at the nearest scrap collection points to make sure that your work is profitable.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

How much copper on average can you get from one compressor?

On average, you can get from one standard household compressor from 300 to 800 grams of pure copper. In old powerful models, the output can reach 1.2-1.5 kg, in modern economical ones it can be closer to the lower limit. The exact amount depends on the model, year of manufacture and type of engine.

Is it possible to burn insulation on a fire?

Technically it is possible, but it is not recommended. When burned, acrid black smoke is released, which is harmful to the lungs, and copper oxidizes and loses weight. It is better to use a mechanical method (biting, pulling), which allows you to preserve the quality of the metal and get a higher price upon delivery.

Is the gas inside the compressor dangerous?

Yes, in high concentrations it can cause suffocation, and some types of refrigerants, when in contact with an open flame, form phosgene - a chemical warfare agent. Therefore, you should only open the compressor outdoors and never use an open fire near the gas outlet.

What to do with the oil from the compressor?

This is technical oil contaminated with wear products and refrigerant. It should not be poured down the drain or onto the ground. Collect it in an airtight container and take it to a waste oil or hazardous waste collection point.

Is there gold or silver in the compressor?

In ordinary household compressors there are no precious metals in quantities sufficient for extraction. Relay contacts can be plated with silver, but the amount is microscopic. The main value is the copper winding.