The situation when freezer compartment works properly, freezes, and in the main compartment the temperature is higher than normal, is a classic “disease” for many models of refrigeration equipment. Equipment owners Ariston face this no less often than users of other brands. Often panic sets in immediately: it seems that the unit has completely broken down, and the food in the refrigerator compartment begins to deteriorate. However, in most cases, the problem lies in a violation of the circulation of the refrigerant or malfunctions in the defrost system, which can be diagnosed.
Modern two-chamber refrigerators Hotpoint-Ariston with a system No Frost or drip defrosting are designed so that the cold is produced in one place (usually in the freezer or behind the back wall) and then distributed throughout the volumes. If you notice that there is heat on the shelves of the main compartment and ice below, this is a signal that the physics of the process is broken. Compressor It may hum, creating the illusion of normal operation, but the cooling capacity drops or stops flowing into the desired circuit.
Before calling a technician or look for a new unit, it is important to understand the nature of the malfunction. Often the reason is trivial and lies in little things that you can fix on your own. In other cases, specialist intervention is required to replace freon or the compressor. Let's analyze in detail the main breakdown scenarios and ways to solve them.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear gurgling or hissing inside the cabinet, this may indicate an active refrigerant leak. Operating equipment in this mode leads to engine combustion.
Impaired air circulation in the No Frost system
The most common cause of temperature imbalance in models Ariston with the system No Frost is a violation of the circulation of air masses. Cold air must be forced from the freezer to the refrigerator through special channels. If this flow is blocked, the upper chamber stops cooling.
An ice block in the air ducts is often the culprit. This happens if the defrost system is unable to remove condensate. As a result, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a “fur coat”, the fan begins to drive air through the ice monolith, and efficiency drops to zero. It becomes warm in the refrigerator compartment, although evaporator it may be frozen solid.
It is also worth checking the air flow control damper. In some models Ariston it is controlled mechanically or electronically. If the damper is stuck in the closed position, the cold simply does not enter the upper compartment. The user can hear the fan operating, but there will be no result.
To eliminate the problem, complete defrosting of the unit is often required. It is necessary to disconnect the device from the network and leave it open for at least 12, and preferably 24 hours. This will allow the ice in the hidden channels to melt. If after switching on the problem returns after a few days, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system is faulty: Heating element, timer or sensor.
Hidden cause of freezing
In some cases, an ice plug is formed not due to a breakdown of the heating element, but because the drainage hole is clogged with crumbs or mold. The water does not go into the pan, freezes and blocks the channels.
Refrigerant leak: symptoms and consequences
The second most common reason why freezer works, but the refrigerator does not, is a partial leak. freon. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit. First, it passes through the evaporator of the freezer, where it actively boils and takes away heat, and then, having already lost part of the cooling capacity, it enters the refrigeration compartment circuit.
If the amount of gas in the system decreases, it is only enough for the first stage - freezing food in the lower compartment. The refrigerant simply does not reach the upper shelves in the required condition or volume. As a result, it can be -18°C in the freezer, and +10°C or higher in the refrigerator. This is a classic symptom of “escaping” gas.
How to determine a leak visually? Carefully inspect the outside side walls (if they are not metal, but plastic, this is more difficult) and the rear grille. Oily spots may indicate a leak. However, most often leaks occur in the foamed part of the case or in solder areas hidden from view.
- ❄️ The compressor works almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature.
- 🔥 The condenser (grid at the back) is only partially warm or completely cold.
- 🧊 In the freezer Ice freezes only at the back wall or along the perimeter, and in the center there is “puffy” snow.
⚠️ Attention: Self-refilling with freon is impossible without special equipment and skills. An attempt to “add” gas without eliminating the cause of the leak is a waste of money.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
Refrigerator electronics Ariston relies on sensor readings. If thermostat or the air temperature sensor in the refrigeration chamber fails and begins to transmit incorrect data (for example, that it is already -5°C), the compressor will turn off at the command of the “brains”, even if it is really +15°C inside.
In mechanical models, the problem may lie in the regulator itself, which spins by hand. The contacts inside may have oxidized or become stuck. In electronic models with a display, the touch element itself often fails or the wiring leading to it breaks. Diagnostics requires testing with a multimeter.
It is interesting that sometimes the sensor is working, but is installed incorrectly. If during defrosting or cleaning you touch the wiring and move the sensor, it may touch the wall or the blowing fan, indicating an incorrect temperature. In such cases, it is enough to correct its position.
Replacing a thermostat is a relatively simple procedure for those who know how to hold a screwdriver. It is necessary to remove the plastic cover, disconnect the terminals and install a new element with a similar marking.
Clogged capillary tube and compressor operation
Another technical reason for temperature imbalance is clog in the capillary tube. This is the thinnest copper tube through which freon is supplied to the evaporator. If moisture (which turns into an ice plug) or oil breakdown products (paraffin plug) gets into the system, circulation is disrupted.
Symptoms of a clog are similar to a leak: the freezer freezes weakly or only at the wall, but the refrigerator compartment is warm. In this case, the compressor may work with overload, becoming very hot, or turn on and off in short cycles. The pressure in the system drops and the refrigeration capacity disappears.
To remove the blockage, technicians use the method of pressing with nitrogen or heating the tube. At home, gently tap the tube (very carefully!), but this is a temporary measure. Most often, professional cleaning and replacement of the filter-drier are required.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| Fridge -18°C, Refrigerator +10°C | Freon leak | High (needs a technician) |
| Warm everywhere, but the freezer is a little colder | Capillary clogged | High (a technician is needed) |
| The refrigerator does not freeze, there is ice on the back wall | Faulty defrost system | Medium (you can do it yourself) |
| The compressor is humming, but there is no cold | Loss of motor performance | High (compressor replacement) |
Problems with the seal and chamber tightness
Do not discount the banal loss of tightness. If sealing rubber band on the door of the refrigerator compartment is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly flows inside. The cooling system simply does not have time to compensate for the heat influx, although the freezer, the door of which is opened less often, copes.
You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter. If it is pulled out without resistance, the seal does not fit. In models Ariston the rubber bands are often magnetic, but over time the magnets weaken or grease and crumbs get packed into the groove.
Also the reason may be the misalignment of the door. If the refrigerator has not been washed for a long time or it is not level, the door may warp. Adjusting the hinges often solves the problem without replacing consumables. Pay attention to the bottom of the door - moisture often accumulates there.
☑️ Checking the seal
Diagnostics and owner's action algorithm
What to do if you find a problem? Do not rush to disassemble the unit right away. Start with the simplest steps that will help you localize. Often 50% of problems are solved by proper defrosting.
First of all, unplug the refrigerator. Let it sit with the doors open for a day. This is critical for No Frost models. If after turning on the refrigerator worked normally, but a week later the situation repeated itself, look for a malfunction in the defrosting heating element or timer.
If defrosting did not help, listen to the operation of the motor. Does it hum smoothly? Are there any clicks? Check to see if the grill at the back is getting hot. These observations will help the repairman give you an approximate cost of repair over the phone. Self-repair of the refrigerant system is prohibited and dangerous.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics and location of components may vary in different Ariston models. Always check the official instructions for your series (for example, Ariston QS or MB).
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why did the Ariston refrigerator work after defrosting, but after 3 days it stopped freezing again?
This is a sure sign of a malfunction of the automatic defrosting system. Most likely, it burned out Evaporator heating element, the defrost sensor or timer failed. Ice builds up again and blocks the channels. The faulty element needs to be replaced.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the freezer is freezing, but the refrigerator is not?
For a short time, it is possible, the food in the freezer will not spoil. However, you cannot work like this for long. The compressor will wear out trying to build up temperature, which will lead to overheating and costly replacement. In addition, the products in the upper compartment will be lost.
How much does the repair cost if the cause is a freon leak?
The cost consists of the work of the technician, the cost of freon and oil. This is one of the most expensive types of repairs. Often, if the refrigerator is more than 10 years old, it is more economically feasible to consider purchasing new equipment, since the cost of repairs can reach 50% of the cost of a new unit.
How can you tell that the compressor has burned out and not a freon leak?
If the compressor is humming, but does not start (you can hear a clicking and humming sound), or it is hot, but does not produce cold at all nowhere (even in the freezer it’s barely cold), and at the same time the tubes coming out of it are the same temperature - perhaps the problem is in the motor or the start relay. An accurate diagnosis will be made by a technician with a pressure gauge.