The situation when the upper or lower chamber of the refrigerator Biryusa stops cooling, while the freezer continues to operate normally, is one of the most common complaints from the owners of this equipment. This behavior of the unit often takes the owners by surprise, because it seems illogical that one part of the device functions perfectly, while the other is completely out of order. However, for experienced craftsmen, this picture immediately indicates a specific range of possible malfunctions associated with either the defrost system or the refrigerant circulation.
In most models Biryusa, especially those equipped with a system No Frost or a static evaporator with forced air circulation, cooling of the refrigerator compartment occurs due to cold air coming from the freezer compartment. If this process is disrupted, the food in the main chamber begins to deteriorate, although the compressor may hum continuously. Understanding the operating principle of your model is the first step to successfully diagnosing and fixing a breakdown without calling a technician.
Do not panic and immediately look for contacts of a service center, since in many cases the problem can be solved independently, having a minimal set of tools and an understanding of the unit’s structure. In this article, we will analyze in detail all the probable causes, from banal clogged channels to complex technical malfunctions of the compressor, and provide a step-by-step algorithm of actions to restore the functionality of your refrigerator.
The principle of operation of the cooling system in Biryusa refrigerators
To understand why it is warm in the main chamber, you need to understand the physics of the process. In two-chamber refrigerators Biryusa with one compressor, the cold is generated in the evaporator, which is most often located in the freezer or behind the back wall. A fan (if the model No Frost) or natural convection (in drip models) transfers this cold air into the refrigerator compartment through special air ducts.
If the freezer is freezing, this means that the compressor is properly compressing freon, and the cooling cycle is running. The problem is localized precisely at the moment of cold transfer or in the management of this process. In systems with forced circulation the key role is played by the fan and dampers that regulate the flow. In drip systems, the condition of the evaporator and the absence of ice plugs are critical.
How to distinguish No Frost from a drip system?
In No Frost models you will not see ice on the back wall inside the chambers, since the evaporator is hidden. In drip systems (“Crying Wall”), drops of water periodically appear on the back panel of the refrigerator compartment, flowing down, and a thin layer of frost may grow in the freezer.
It is important to note that the refrigerator electronics receive signals from temperature sensors. If the sensor in the refrigerator compartment “lies” and tells the control board that the temperature there has already been reached, the compressor may turn off ahead of time, without having time to freeze the food, although cold accumulates in the freezer during this time.
Malfunctions of the defrost system and the formation of an ice plug
The most common reason why... data-i="65">it becomes warm, but the freezer remains cold - this is a violation of the evaporator defrost cycle. In models refrigerator compartment it becomes warm, but the freezer remains cold - this is a violation of the evaporator defrost cycle. In models Turk No Frost on the hidden evaporator, frost constantly builds up from the moisture contained in the products and air. It turns on periodically Defrost heating elementwhich melts this ice. If this process is disrupted, ice blocks the air supply channels.
An ice plug can completely block the path of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. Visually, it may look like this: the freezer is working hard, the compressor is humming, but the cold simply does not reach the upper chamber. Over time, the ice can block the fan itself, which will lead to extraneous noise or its complete stop.
⚠️ Attention: If you find that the back wall in the refrigerator compartment is swollen or covered with a thick layer of frost/ice, do not under any circumstances try to pick out the ice with a knife or sharp objects. This is guaranteed to lead to evaporator breakdown and freon leakage, which will turn a simple repair into an expensive circuit replacement.
Diagnosis of this problem often requires a complete defrost of the refrigerator within 24 hours. If after this the refrigerator starts to work normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returns, it means that one of the elements of the defrost system is faulty: the heating element, defrost sensor or timer (relay).
- ❄️ defrost heating element - heating element that could burn out and stop melting the ice on the evaporator.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor —a thermostat that should turn the heating element on and off; if it is “stuck”, heating does not occur.
- ⏱️ Timer or control board - a device that gives a command to start the defrost cycle; if it fails, the refrigerator works only for cooling.
Problems with the fan and air circulation
In refrigerators Biryusa with technology No Frost the fan located in the freezer is responsible for moving cold air. If this unit fails, cold air remains in the freezer (where it is produced) and does not enter the refrigerator compartment. As a result, it may even be too cold in the freezer, but warm above.
Often, fan failure is associated with icing of its blades or bushing. The ice blocks rotation, the motor hums but does not turn, or the thermal protection is triggered and it turns off. Mechanical destruction of the bearings or breakage of the electric motor winding is also possible. In such cases, a characteristic hum or crackling sound is usually heard from the freezer.
Checking the fan requires partial disassembly of the freezer. It is necessary to get to the evaporator and assess the condition of the impeller. If the fan is jammed with ice, it must be released and checked for freedom of rotation. If the motor burns out, it will need to be replaced with one of similar size and electrical parameters.
It is also worth checking the air ducts. They should not contain foreign objects, pieces of packaging film or products that could fall and block the air flow. Even a small obstacle can critically reduce the cooling efficiency of the upper chamber.
Freon leakage and compressor malfunctions
A more serious reason why Biryusa refrigerator it does not freeze in the main chamber may be a partial leak of refrigerant. With a small amount of freon in the system, it is only enough to cool the first section of the circuit - the evaporator in the freezer. The refrigerant simply does not reach the refrigeration compartment or reaches it already heated.
A symptom of a leak is often that the compressor works almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but cold does not appear in the upper chamber. The compressor housing may be very hot, but the condenser (grid at the back) may be only partially or unevenly warm.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation |
|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the top warm | Freon leak (partial) | Works without stopping |
| Both chambers are warm | Complete leak or compressor breakdown | Buzzes and turns off / silent |
| There is cold, but weak | Clogged capillary tube | Works cyclically, but buzzes louder |
| Frost only at the entrance to the evaporator | Lack freon | Works constantly |
Another possible problem with this unit is loss of compressor performance. The motor may hum and start, but not create enough pressure to pump freon throughout the entire circuit. In this case, as with a leak, there is only enough cold for the initial stage of the cycle, that is, for the freezer.
⚠️ Attention: Repairs related to a freon leak or compressor replacement require special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station) and a license to work with refrigerants. It is impossible to carry out this work efficiently on your own.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and damper
In some models Biryusa, especially two-compressor ones or equipped with a system Multi Flow, a special damper (damper) is responsible for the supply of cold. It opens and closes at the command of the electronic module, regulating the amount of cold air coming from the freezer. If the damper is stuck in the closed position, the cold simply does not enter the chamber.
Also the cause may be a faulty thermostat (thermostat). In older models it is a mechanical “twist” inside the camera, in new ones it is an electronic sensor. If the thermostat incorrectly reads the temperature (for example, it “thinks” that the chamber is already +2°C, although it is +10°C), it will not give a command to turn on the compressor or open the damper.
Diagnostics of the thermostat in mechanical models is simple: you can temporarily close its contacts. If the refrigerator starts to freeze after this, it means that the regulator is faulty and requires replacement. In electronic models, you will need to ring the sensor with a multimeter at different temperatures and compare the readings with the resistance table for a specific model Biryusa.
☑️ Damper diagnostics
The damper can get stuck not only due to a breakdown of the drive, but also due to frozen ice. In this case, as in the case of the defrost system, complete defrosting of the unit will help.
Diagnostics and procedure for independent actions
Before calling a technician, it is advisable to carry out an initial diagnosis, which will help to weed out simple causes and accurately describe the problem to a specialist. Start with a visual inspection and analysis of the refrigerator's operation. Pay attention to how long the compressor has been running and whether there are any unusual sounds.
If you suspect a defrosting problem (frost, ice), perform a full defrost. This is the safest and free way to check. If after 24 hours of defrosting the refrigerator worked like new, but a week later the problem recurred, look for a fault in the heating element, sensor or timer.
If defrosting does not help, or you hear that the fan does not spin, disassembly will be required. Models Biryusa are characterized by access to the evaporator through the rear panel in the freezer. By removing it, you can see the condition of the evaporator, fan and heating element.
Sequence of actions during disassembly:1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network.
2. Empty the freezer of food.
3. Remove shelves and drawers.
4. Unscrew the rear panel mounting screws.
5. Carefully unclip the plastic clips (if any).
6. Visually assess the condition of the components.
If you do not have the skills to work with a multimeter or are not confident in your abilities when disassembling plastic panels, it is better to stop at the defrosting stage and turn to professionals. Inept actions can lead to breakage of plastic fasteners or damage to the wiring.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long should complete defrosting take to eliminate the ice plug?
For complete melting of ice in hidden channels and on the evaporator refrigerator Biryusa it is recommended to leave the unit turned off with the doors open for at least 24 hours. A shorter defrosting (2-4 hours) can melt visible ice, but will not eliminate the blockage in the depths of the air ducts.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if the freezer is freezing, but the upper chamber is not?
For a short time - yes, but not recommended. The compressor will work non-stop, trying to cool the upper chamber, which will lead to overheating and premature wear. In addition, the food in the refrigerator compartment will quickly deteriorate.
Why did the refrigerator work after defrosting, but a month later the problem recurred?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the automatic defrosting system. Defrosting eliminated the consequences (ice), but not the cause. Most likely, the heating element of the evaporator burned out, the defrost sensor or time relay failed. These components need to be checked and replaced.
Where is the defrost heating element in the Biryusa refrigerator?
The heating element is located directly on the evaporator, which is hidden behind the rear plastic panel in the freezer. To get to it, you need to remove the panel, freeing access to the evaporator fins.
What to do if the fan hums but does not spin?
First, check if ice is preventing rotation. If there is no ice, the grease in the bushing may have dried out or the motor winding has burned out. In some cases, lubrication helps, but it is safer to replace the fan with a new one, since the old one can jam again at any moment.