The situation when at the bottom In your chamber Indesit the food turns into ice blocks, and in the top shelf the milk turns sour in a couple of hours, this is a classic symptom of a serious failure in the cooling system. Many owners of two-chamber units mistakenly believe that since the compressor is humming and the freezer is working, then the equipment is working and the problem will be solved by itself after defrosting. However, in the case of modern models, especially those equipped with a system No Frost, this behavior indicates a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a failure of control elements.
Your attention will have to understand the structure of the system Full No Frost or Frost Free, which is used in most refrigerators of this brand. The principle of operation is based on the fact that cold air is generated in the evaporator of the freezer and is forced by a fan into the refrigerator compartment through special air channels. If this flow is blocked by an ice plug or stopped by a faulty mechanism, the upper chamber stops cooling, even if the evaporator itself is covered with frost.
You should not ignore the first signs of a temperature imbalance, since prolonged operation of the compressor in non-stop mode to try to achieve the specified parameters can lead to its overheating and costly replacement. In this article, we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of the breakdown, explain why in some models Indesit with one compressor a temperature imbalance occurs, and determine which components require immediate inspection.
The principle of operation of the Indesit cooling system and the distribution of cold
To understand why in the refrigerator Indesit it’s warm, but it’s cold in the freezer, you need to clearly understand the path of movement of freon and air. Unlike old models with a crying evaporator on the back wall, here the cold is created in a separate hidden block. Compressor compresses gaseous freon, which then condenses into heat, and the liquid refrigerant enters the evaporator of the freezer, where it expands sharply and cools the space.
The key distribution element is the fan and damper system. If the fan stops, cold air remains in the freezer, creating excess cooling there, but does not reach the top compartment. Also an important role is played thermostat or an electronic sensor, which should turn off the compressor when the desired temperature is reached. If the sensor “lies” and shows that it is still warm in the freezer, the compressor will work continuously, freezing the lower chamber and preventing the system from returning to normal mode.
In models with one cooling circuit, there is a physical connection between the chambers. Temperature regulation often occurs due to the proportion of the compressor operating time and the blowing fan operating time. A disruption in any link of this chain - from a burnt-out motor winding to a clogged capillary - leads to the described imbalance.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the back wall of the freezer is covered with an uneven layer of ice (for example, only at the entrance or only in the depths), this may indicate a partial blockage of the system or a shortage refrigerant, and not just user error.
The most common reason: malfunction of the defrost system (No Frost)
The most likely culprit for the situation when the freezer freezes too much, and the temperature in the refrigerator is above zero, is a failure in the automatic defrosting system of the evaporator. During operation, frost inevitably forms on the evaporator from the moisture contained in the food and air. It should turn on periodically Defrost heating element, melt this ice, and the water should flow into the drainage. If this process is disrupted, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a monolithic block of ice.
The ice coat blocks the channels through which the fan should blow cold air into the upper chamber. As a result, the fan hums idle, air does not circulate, and the refrigerator compartment becomes warm. At the same time, in the freezer, right next to the source of cold, the temperature may remain low or even drop below normal due to the insulation of the evaporator with ice and the continuous operation of the compressor.
In the defrosting system, three components most often fail:
- ❄️ defrost heating element —a heating element that could simply burn out from old age or a power surge.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor —a thermostat that should give a command to turn on the heating element when the ice reaches a certain thickness; if it is “stuck”, heating will not start.
- ⏱️ Defrost timer or electronic module - a device that regulates operating cycles; if it breaks down, the refrigerator goes into eternal cooling mode without pauses for defrosting.
Diagnosis of this problem requires partial disassembly of the freezer. You will have to remove the back panel to visually assess the amount of ice on the evaporator. If you see that the radiator is completely or partially hidden under a layer of snow and ice, and the fan is spinning, but no air is flowing into the upper chamber, the diagnosis is confirmed.
How to check the defrost heating element with a multimeter?
To check, you need to “ring” the heating element. In good condition, its resistance should be approximately 200-400 Ohms. If the device shows infinity (one on the left), it means that the heating thread is broken and the element requires replacement. Do not forget to disconnect the refrigerator from the network before checking!
Freon leak and capillary tube blockage
The second most common reason why the refrigerator Indesit stops cooling in the upper compartment is due to a violation of the refrigerant circulation. Freon is the “blood” of the refrigerator, transferring heat. If its amount in the system decreases due to microcracks (corrosion, vibration) or if a blockage forms in the tubes (oil breakdown products or moisture), the pressure drops.
If there is a leak or blockage, freon simply does not reach the evaporator in full or cannot circulate effectively through the circuit. Often in such cases, the evaporator in the freezer is only partially covered with frost (for example, only at the beginning of the tube), while the rest remains warm. The compressor works non-stop, trying to catch up with the temperature, but physically cannot do this due to a lack of working fluid.
The main signs of a leak or blockage:
- 🔇 The compressor works continuously, hums, but does not turn off.
- 🌡️ Condenser (grid at the back or side walls) remains cold or barely warm, although it should be hot.
- 💧 Traces of oil are visible in the area of the compressor or pipes (freon carries the oil with it).
It is almost impossible to solve the problem of leakage or blockage on your own. You need to find the location of the damage, solder it, evacuate the system and refill the refrigerator with the exact amount of freon indicated on the nameplate. Attempts to simply “add gas” without eliminating the cause will lead to repeated breakdown in a short time.
⚠️ Attention: If you suspect a leak, do not under any circumstances try to pierce the pipes or bleed off the remaining gas yourself. Freon can be flammable, and the oil in the system is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture), which will finally kill the compressor when air gets in.
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (thermostat) is the “brain” that decides when to turn the compressor on and off. In older models Indesit this is a mechanical device with a bellows and a capillary tube, in new ones there are electronic sensors (NTC). If the thermostat is faulty and does not open the circuit when the desired temperature is reached, the compressor will thresh without interruption.
As a result of such a failure, the freezer turns into a morgue, freezing all the contents, while the air distribution system may not be able to cope with the volume, or due to freezing of the channels (see the point about No Frost), the cold simply does not reach the top. It is also possible that the thermostat is “stuck” in the “off” position, but this would lead to defrosting of both chambers, so in our case (the freezer is working), sticking in the “on” position is more often to blame.
For electronic models, the condition of the temperature sensor in the refrigerator compartment is important. If it shows incorrect data (for example, it says +15°C when in fact it is +5°C), the control module will require further operation from the compressor. Sensors are checked by measuring their resistance at different temperatures and comparing them with a table of characteristics.
Faults in the compressor and start relay
Although The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator; its breakdown does not always mean complete silence. Sometimes it can start and work, but not develop sufficient compression power. This is called "loss of productivity." In this mode, the pressure in the system is not enough to push freon through the entire circuit to the upper chamber, but when evaporating in the freezer, a little cold may be enough to maintain a low temperature.
It is also worth paying attention to start relay. If it is burnt or does not work correctly, the compressor may hum, twitch, but not fully start or quickly turn off due to thermal protection. However, in the “freezer is freezing” scenario, the compressor is most likely functioning, but its operating efficiency is reduced.
Symptoms of problems with the motor-compressor:
- 🔊 Loud, metallic knocking or clanging noise when operation.
- 🔥 Strong heating of the compressor housing (burns your hand when touched).
- ⚡ Frequent clicks of the relay and attempts to start every few minutes.
If the compressor is hot, but the refrigerator does not cool, this is a sure sign that the heat from compression is not removed or does not occur effectively heat exchange. In such cases, it is often necessary to replace the entire unit, since repairing an old compressor is not economically feasible.
Mechanical damage and seals
Trivial mechanical reasons cannot be discounted. If the refrigerator door does not close tightly due to dirty, torn or “stiff” seal, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to compensate for heat loss, working for wear. The freezer can still keep the temperature, since it is more airtight or colder, but the refrigerator compartment will be warm.
It is also worth checking whether the ventilation holes inside the chamber are not blocked by food. In models Indesit with system Multi Air Flow or similar, it is important to leave a gap at the back wall. If you tightly pack the shelves to the very top, blocking the diffusers, air circulation will become impossible.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Characteristic symptom |
|---|---|---|
| Freezer in snow, top warm | Malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, timer) | Ice on the evaporator, the fan is noisy |
| Both chambers are warm, the compressor is hot | Freon leak or blockage | Weak cooling of the condenser at the rear |
| The compressor threshes without stopping | The thermostat or sensor is faulty | No shutdown cycles |
| Warm at the door, cold in the depths | Damaged seal | Visual defects in rubber, cracks |
☑️ Primary diagnostics before calling a technician
Algorithm for self-diagnosis and action
Before calling a technician, who will take money for a visit and diagnostics, you can carry out a number of safe manipulations that will help more accurately describe the problem or even eliminate it if the problem is simple freezing. The first and most important step is complete defrosting.
Unplug the refrigerator, remove all food and leave the doors open for at least 24 hours (preferably a day). This is necessary so that the ice in the hidden channels of the evaporator (which you cannot see) completely melts. Often, after such a procedure, the refrigerator begins to work properly for several more months until it grows again.
If after defrosting the problem returns after 1-2 weeks, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system (heating element, sensor, timer) is faulty. If defrosting did not help and the cold did not enter the upper chamber even immediately after switching on, the problem is more serious (leakage, compressor). In this case, you cannot do without specialized equipment.
⚠️ Attention: When defrosting, do not use a hairdryer, hot water or sharp objects to chip ice! A sharp temperature change can damage the plastic and evaporator tubes, and a puncture of the evaporator will lead to an instant leak of freon and expensive repairs.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to continue to operate the refrigerator if it is warm in the upper chamber?
For a short time - yes, there is no food in the freezer will spoil. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which works without rest. In addition, food in the refrigerator compartment will quickly become unusable. It is better to eliminate the cause.
How much does it cost to repair a defrost system at Indesit?
The cost depends on the region and the pricing policy of the service, but replacing a heating element or sensor usually falls into the middle price segment of repairs, since the parts themselves are inexpensive, but the work requires disassembling the freezer.
Why did the refrigerator start working after defrosting, but a week later it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the No Frost system. Defrosting removes the effect (ice jam), but not the cause (burnt-out heating element or timer). After a week of operation, the ice builds up again and blocks the channels.
Could the electronic control board be to blame?
Yes, in models with electronic control, a failure in the module can lead to incorrect operation of the compressor or fan. However, statistically more often actuators (heating elements, sensors) fail than the board itself.
What to do if the compressor hums but does not start?
Most likely, the starting relay has failed or the compressor is jammed. Try letting the equipment stand unplugged for a couple of hours. If, when you turn it on again, the situation repeats (humming and clicking after a minute), the relay or compressor needs to be replaced.