The situation when freezer compartment properly freezes food, but the main compartment is warm, causes confusion among many owners. Indeed, in most modern models, one compressoris responsible for both circuits. It is logical to assume that if the engine is humming and the freezer is working, then the refrigerator should be cold. However, the reality is often more complicated, and the problem does not lie in the motor itself.
The lack of cold in the upper compartment while the bottom is running is a classic symptom of a violation refrigerant circulation or failure in the control system. The refrigerant simply does not reach the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment, remaining in the freezer circuit. This can be caused by either simple icing or a serious freon leak.
Before calling a technician, it is worth carrying out an initial diagnosis to eliminate simple operating errors. Understanding the operating principle of No Frost systems or the drip system will help you quickly navigate the nature of the breakdown. In this article we will analyze the main causes of the malfunction and methods for eliminating them.
Faults of the defrost system and freezing
One of the most common reasons why the refrigerator does not freeze in the upper compartment is banal icing of the evaporator. In models with the system No Frost a hidden evaporator, which periodically defrosts, is responsible for heat removal. If the defrosting system fails, the ice coat blocks the air channels.
The air simply stops circulating between the chambers. As a result, cold air remains in the freezer and does not enter the refrigerator compartment at all. You can hear the hum compressor, but there will be no cold in the upper part. This is often accompanied by a characteristic cracking sound of ice or a complete absence of sound from the operating fan.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the back wall of the freezer is covered with a thick layer of ice, and it is warm in the refrigerator, under no circumstances try to pick out the ice with a knife or sharp objects. This will lead to breakdown of the evaporator and leakage of freon.
To solve the problem, complete defrosting of the unit is required. Leave the refrigerator turned off for 10-12 hours with the doors open. This will allow the ice to melt naturally and free up the air passages. After switching on, the equipment should work in normal mode if the defrost sensors are working properly.
Why does the defrost system fail?
Most often, the defrost heating element burns out, the timer or temperature sensor breaks. As a result, the ice does not melt, but grows with each cycle until it completely blocks the path to air.
If after defrosting the situation repeats itself a few days later, it means that one of the elements has failed. defrost systems. This could be a heating element, thermostat or fuse. Professional diagnostics with a multimeter are required to identify the burnt element.
Refrigerant leakage and problems with charging
The second most common cause is freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and in a working refrigerator its quantity is constant. However, over time, microcracks may form in metal tubes due to corrosion or mechanical damage. The gas evaporates, and its volume is no longer enough to cool both compartments.
Why then does the freezer work? If there is a partial leak, the freon pressure is only enough for the first circuit of the evaporator, which is usually located in the freezer. The refrigerant simply does not reach the upper compartment, cooling along the way. In this case, the compressor can work without interruption, trying to increase the temperature, but to no avail.
It is difficult to diagnose a leak visually, since the gas is colorless and odorless. However, there are indirect signs:
- 🧊 The compressor works constantly, without turning off.
- 🌡️ The temperature in the refrigerator compartment is higher than normal, food spoils.
- 🔇 Periodic turning on and off of the motor at very short intervals.
- 🧱 Heating of the side walls of the case is uneven or absent.
Restoring functionality in this case is possible only in a service center. The technician will find the leak, seal the tube and fill the system with new refrigerant. It is impossible to fix this malfunction on your own without special equipment.
Fan malfunction and clogged channels
In refrigerators with forced air circulation (No Frost), the fan is responsible for moving cold flows. If it stops spinning, cold air remains in the freezer area. The fan may jam due to icing of the bushing or burn out due to a power surge.
You can check the operation of the fan by opening the freezer door. In some models, it goes silent when the door is open, so you need to find and press the door sensor, simulating closing. If there is no operating sound and there is no ice coat on the evaporator, most likely the problem is in the motor.
Physical blockage of the channels may also be the cause. Sometimes pieces of packaging, lettuce, or other small objects get into the air ducts, blocking the air flow. In such cases, it is necessary to disassemble the internal panel of the freezer and clean the channels.
Another nuance is the damper that regulates the air flow. Some models Indesit or Atlant have a mechanical or electric damper. If it is stuck in the closed position, air will not flow into the upper chamber. Check the movement of the damper manually after defrosting.
Failure of electronics and sensors
Modern refrigerators are controlled electronic module. It reads the temperature sensors and makes a decision to turn on the compressor, fan or heating element. If the temperature sensor in the refrigerator compartment is “lying” and shows the module that it is already cold there, the motor will not turn on.
The defrost sensor often fails. It can show the module that the evaporator is already defrosted, although in fact there is ice there. As a result, the heating element does not turn on, icing increases, and circulation stops. Diagnostics requires testing the sensors with a tester for compliance with their temperature resistance.
| Component | Failure symptom | Probability |
|---|---|---|
| Defrost sensor | Increase ice, no cold at the top | High |
| Defrost heating element | Ice coat, compressor hums | Medium |
| Fan | Noise or silence, no circulation | Average |
| Control module | Chaotic operation, indication errors | Low |
Failures in the module software are also possible. Sometimes a reboot helps: unplugging the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes. This will clear errors in the controller memory. If after switching on the problem returns, it means that the part is physically faulty.
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical reason is clogged capillary tube. In the freon circulation system there is a very narrow tube where throttling occurs (a sharp drop in pressure). Over time, oil oxidation products or moisture can accumulate there, turning into an ice plug.
When clogged, the circulation of the refrigerant is disrupted. The compressor tries to pump gas, but cannot. The pressure at the outlet increases and the pressure at the inlet decreases. As a result, there is no cold in any compartment, or it is only at the beginning of the circuit (in the freezer). A characteristic sign is that the compressor turns on, hums for 1-2 minutes and is turned off by a thermal relay.
⚠️ Attention: Attempts to clean the capillary tube yourself using pumps or chemicals at home often lead to depressurization of the system. It is better to entrust this work to professionals.
To remove the blockage, the technician purges the system with nitrogen under high pressure. If this does not help, the capillary tube is replaced with a new one. The procedure requires evacuation of the system and charging with freon.
Compressor wear
Although at the beginning of the article we said that the compressor is most likely intact, we cannot completely discount it. There are situations when motor-compressor it buzzes, but does not develop the required pressure. This is called "loss of productivity". The pistons are worn out, and the gas simply circulates inside the housing without creating pressure in the system.
In this case, the freezer can barely freeze, and the cold does not reach the refrigerator at all. Only a technician can check the compressor by connecting a pressure gauge station to the service connection. If the discharge pressure is low, the unit will need to be replaced.
Replacing a compressor is an expensive repair, which includes:
- 🛠️ Dismantling the old motor.
- 🔥 Soldering a new compressor.
- 💨 Vacuuming the circuit.
- ⛽ Refilling with an exact dose of freon.
Operating rules to prevent problems
So that the situation when the freezer is workingand there is no refrigerator does not take you by surprise, it is important to follow the operating rules. Do not place hot foods in the chamber; they increase humidity and load on the defrost system. Monitor the integrity of the door seals - if they do not fit tightly, warm moist air enters the chamber, causing icing.
Regularly check that the air ducts are not blocked by food. In models No Frost it is important that cold air circulates freely. Do not overcrowd the refrigerator; leave gaps at the back wall. This will extend the life of the equipment and keep the food fresh.
If you notice the first signs of a malfunction - extraneous noise, ice or temperature changes - do not wait for a complete breakdown. Timely defrosting or calling a technician at an early stage can save the compressor from overload and costly repairs.
☑️ Diagnostics before calling a technician
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why did the refrigerator stop freezing after defrosting?
If after defrosting the cold did not appear within 4-6 hours, there may have been an electronics failure or damage to the wiring during cleaning. The defrost heating element could also burn out, which could not melt the ice completely, and the channels clogged again.
Can one compressor cool two chambers independently?
In most household models, one compressor cools the common circuit, but the distribution of cold is regulated by dampers and thermostats. In two-compressor models, each chamber is responsible for its own motor, and the breakdown of one does not affect the operation of the other.
How long does it take for the refrigerator to gain temperature after turning on?
Usually it takes from 2 to 6 hours to stabilize the temperature in the chambers. At this time, you should not load food and open the doors often. If after 8 hours there is no cold, look for a malfunction.
Is it dangerous to use a refrigerator if the freezer is working and it is warm at the top?
You cannot use it to store perishable foods in the upper compartment - they will spoil. At the same time, the compressor itself works with overload, trying to reach a non-existent temperature, which can lead to its combustion.