The situation when freezer compartment continues to freeze food properly, but in the main chamber the temperature rises above acceptable values, is one of the most common complaints from owners of household appliances. This behavior of the unit is often confusing: it seems illogical that the same one compressor can simultaneously work efficiently and fail. However, for experienced craftsmen, this picture immediately narrows the scope of troubleshooting to several specific components of the system.
Before calling a technician or disassembling the unit, you need to understand the basic principle of operation. In most modern models, especially with the No Frostsystem, the cold is generated in the freezer compartment, and then distributed throughout the refrigerator using fans and dampers. If the main compartment is warm, this almost always indicates a refrigerant circulation problem or a problem with the defrost system, rather than a complete loss of compressor performance.
Ignoring the problem in the early stages can lead to spoilage of a large amount of food and a significant increase in the bill electricityas the equipment will work hard trying to compensate for the lack of cold. In this article, we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electronic causes of the malfunction so that you can accurately diagnose the problem.
Problems with the defrost system and ice freezing
The most likely reason why it is warm in refrigerator compartment , but everything in the freezer frozen, is a banal violation of air circulation due to ice. In models with the system No Frost the evaporator is hidden behind the back wall, and if the defrosting system (heating element, thermostat or timer) fails, the ice coat grows and blocks the cold air supply channels. The fan is humming, but the air flow simply cannot break through the ice plug into the main compartment.
Often users notice that the refrigerator stops cooling after prolonged operation or power surges. In this case, the sensor that “thinks” that the evaporator is warm and does not turn on the heating to defrost could burn out or stick. Ice blocks the air duct, and the cold remains in the freezer, not reaching the upper shelves. Defrosting heating element or a stuck sensor that “thinks” that the evaporator is warm and does not turn on the heating to defrost. Ice blocks the air duct and the cold remains in the freezer without reaching the top shelves.
- 🧊 Ice completely blocks the ventilation holes between the chambers.
- ❄️ System fan No Frost works, but air does not circulate.
- ⚙️ The defrost sensor shows incorrect data to the controller.
⚠️ Attention: If you try to break off the ice with a knife or sharp objects, you risk damaging the evaporator. Damage to the evaporator tubes will lead to immediate failure freon and will require expensive factory repairs with soldering.
To temporarily solve the problem, you can try to defrost the refrigerator completely by turning it off from the network for 12-24 hours. If after switching on the cold is distributed evenly, then the problem lies precisely in the elements of the defrost system that require replacement.
Hidden signs of a malfunction of the defrost system
Water under the refrigerator, extraneous crackling noises during operation, uneven cooling of products on different shelves, frequent turning on and off of the compressor.
Refrigerant leak and leakage
The second most common cause of temperature imbalance is freon leak (refrigerant). Unlike a complete leak, when it doesn’t cool anywhere, with a partial leak, the gas pressure is enough to freeze food in the freezer chamber (where the evaporator is located directly), but the circulating refrigerant is no longer enough to cool the large volume of the main chamber.
Symptoms often look like this: the freezer is working at a high temperature mode, the walls may be covered with frost unevenly, and in the refrigerator compartment the temperature remains at +10...+15°C. In this case, the compressor can work almost without stopping, trying to reach the set parameters, which leads to its overheating.
Leaks most often occur in places where tubes are soldered, in foamed parts of the body (due to corrosion) or in the door heating circuit. It is almost impossible to determine the location of the leak visually; the use of special equipment is required - leak detector or a soap solution, which is a task for the service center.
Malfunctions of the compressor and start relay
Compressor are the heart of the refrigerator, and its incorrect operation can give paradoxical results. When the piston group or valves wear out, the compressor may develop insufficient pressure. This power is enough for a small circuit (freezer), but not enough for a full cooling cycle. In such cases, they say that the compressor “does not hold pressure.”
It is also worth paying attention to the start relay. If the contacts in it are burnt or the mechanism is stuck, the compressor may start jerkily or hum, but not start fully. Sometimes, with a faulty relay, the motor operates on only one winding, which reduces its efficiency just enough that the freezer still holds minus, but the refrigerator does not.
Diagnostics of the compressor requires measuring the current strength and discharge pressure. If you hear clicks when trying to start or a hum that turns into silence, most likely the problem is in the electrical part of the motor or its mechanical wear.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is hot, does not turn off | Freon leak or compressor wear | Call a technician to check the pressure |
| A click is heard, then silence | Faulty start relay | Replace the relay (you can do it yourself) |
| The motor hums, but does not start | The compressor is jammed | The compressor needs to be replaced |
| The refrigerator turns on for 1-2 minutes | Electronics failure or thermostat | Diagnostics of the control board |
Failure in the operation of the damper and fan (for No Frost)
In modern models with the system No Frost i Multi Air Flow a special air damper (damper) is responsible for the distribution of cold. It opens and closes at the command of the electronic module, regulating the flow of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. If the damper is stuck in the closed position or the drive is broken, the cold simply does not enter the main chamber.
A similar situation occurs when the fan breaks down. If the fan blades become iced up or the motor burns out, air circulation stops. In the freezer, where the source of cold is located, the temperature will remain low, but in the refrigerator compartment it will become warm. Often, before a fan breaks down, extraneous noise or cracking appears.
You can check the operation of the damper by reaching the air duct (usually it is located on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment or at the top). When you open the door and change the temperature settings, you should hear a quiet hum of the damper motor or see its movement.
- 🔌 Check the integrity of the wiring going to the damper motor.
- 🌬️ Make sure that nothing is blocking the fan blades.
- 🧊 Inspect the air duct for ice plugs.
⚠️ Attention: When disassembling the air ducts, be extremely careful with the plastic latches. Plastic becomes brittle in the cold and easily breaks if handled carelessly, which will require replacing the entire unit.
☑️ Diagnostics of the ventilation system
Electronic faults and sensors
Modern refrigerators are controlled by complex electronics. Malfunction thermostat (in mechanical models) or temperature sensor (in electronic) can lead to the “brains” of the refrigerator receiving incorrect information. For example, if the sensor in the refrigerator compartment is “lying” and shows that it is already -5°C, the control module simply will not give a command to cool, although in fact there is +15°C.
In two-compressor models, the situation may be even simpler: one of the compressors (responsible for the refrigeration chamber) or its start relay fails, while the second compressor (freezer) continues to work properly. In this case, the problem is localized strictly in the circuit of one of the cameras.
It is also worth mentioning failures in the control board. Voltage surges in the network can “knock out” the triac that controls the defrost heating element or fan. Visually, traces of burning or swollen capacitors may be visible on the board, but often there are no external signs.
Correct operation and prevention
Often the reason that the refrigerator has stopped coolinglies not in a breakdown, but in improper operation. Clogged vents, hot pots, or a door that isn't closed properly will disrupt the heat balance. In such cases, the equipment simply does not have time to compensate for heat loss.
Regular defrosting (even for systems No Frost at least once a year) and cleaning the drainage hole help to avoid many problems with ice jams. It is also important to check the tightness sealing rubber along the perimeter of the door. If the rubber is dry or dirty, warm air constantly enters the chamber, causing increased ice formation and malfunction.
Following simple loading rules and timely maintenance will prolong the life of the unit and prevent situations where you have to throw away products.
- 🚪 Do not leave the door open for more than 1-2 minutes.
- 🍲 Do not place hot or warm food in the chamber.
- 🧹 Regularly wipe the sealing rubber from grease and dirt.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why doesn’t the refrigerator get cold after defrosting?
If after complete defrosting (more than 12 hours) the refrigerator turned on and worked, but no cold appeared, most likely there was a freon leak or a clogged capillary. It is also possible that during defrosting you damaged the wiring of the sensors.
Is it possible to replace freon yourself?
No, this is impossible without special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station, scales). In addition, you need to know exactly the type and amount of refrigerant, as well as find and eliminate the cause of the leak, otherwise the gas will escape again.
How long should the refrigerator cool down after turning on?
Initial cooling to operating temperature can take from 2 to 12 hours depending on the model and volume of loaded products. If after 12 hours it is still warm in the main chamber and cold in the freezer, this is a malfunction.
Is it dangerous to continue using the refrigerator if it is not cooling?
Yes, it is dangerous. A compressor running idle or leaking quickly overheats and can burn out completely. In addition, this leads to excessive consumption of electricity and spoilage of food.