Disposal of old household appliances is not only an environmentally important process, but also often economically justified. Owners of old units often wonder how to disassemble the motor from the refrigerator in order to get to the valuable contents, namely the copper winding. Compressor is the heart of the refrigeration system, and it is inside its sealed housing that large volumes of non-ferrous metals are hidden, which are in demand at collection points.
However, this process is far from simple and requires serious preparation, since the manufacturer specifically designs the unit to be non-separable. Sealed casing welded around the perimeter, which makes accurate opening impossible without the use of brute force or specialized equipment. Before starting work, it is necessary to clearly understand the risks associated with refrigerant pressure and high voltage of the electrical network.
In this article we will analyze in detail the dismantling steps, methods of opening the housing and methods for removing the winding. You will learn what tools are needed, how to determine the type of winding metal and why it is important to take precautions when working with refrigerant. A competent approach will allow you to maximize the yield of useful material and protect yourself from injury.
Preparation of the workplace and the necessary tools
The first step is to organize a safe space. Working with metal, electricity, and potentially hazardous gases requires a spacious, well-ventilated area, preferably a garage or workshop. There should be no flammable objects on the floor, as a spark may form during the process. You will need a stable workbench or a metal stand on which the unit will be fixed.
The quality and variety of tools directly affect the speed and safety of the process. A standard home craftsman's kit will not be enough here; a more serious arsenal will be required. Pay special attention to personal protective equipment, since metal shavings and possible dust from burnt insulation should not get into the respiratory tract or eyes.
- 🛠️ Angle grinder (grinder) with metal disks at least 2 mm thick for cutting the body.
- 🔨 Sledgehammer, heavy hammer and chisel for splitting welds and knocking out the stator.
- 🧤 Safety glasses with side protection, thick gloves made of split leather and a respirator class FFP2 or higher.
- 🔌 Multimeter to check the integrity of the windings before disassembling (optional).
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to start cutting the housing without making sure that the refrigerant has been completely bled from the system. Residual freon pressure in combination with a spark from an angle grinder can lead to explosive depressurization.
It is also worth preparing containers for sorting waste. You will need separate bags or boxes for ferrous scrap (steel body), non-ferrous metal (copper, aluminum) and hazardous waste (oil residue, insulation). Think in advance where you will put the used discs from the grinder, since you will need a lot of them.
Removing the compressor from the refrigerator frame
Before you start opening the motor itself, it must be removed from the refrigerator cabinet. This stage seems simple, but has its own technical nuances. The compressor is attached to the refrigerator frame, usually using four shock absorbing bushings and bolted or welded brackets. At the bottom there are copper tubes that must be carefully cut.
Use a pipe cutter or a hacksaw to disconnect the discharge and suction pipes. Capillary tube you should also cut through them. It is important not to damage the remaining components of the refrigerator if you plan to return the entire refrigerator or use other parts. After disconnecting the tubes, the compressor remains hanging on the shock absorbers.
☑️ Dismantling the unit
Remove the protective plastic casing from the rear of the unit, if equipped. Below it you will see a start-up relay and a capacitor. Carefully remove the terminals, having previously photographed the connection diagram, and unscrew the relay. The motor is now free and ready for further disposal. The weight of a standard household compressor is from 10 to 15 kilograms, so it should be carried with care.
Bleeding the oil and preparing for opening
Inside the compressor crankcase there is technical oil, which provides lubrication of the rubbing parts. Its quantity can vary from 200 to 400 grams depending on the model. This oil is contaminated with wear products and, possibly, products of refrigerant decomposition, so it is prohibited to drain it into the sewer or onto the ground.
To drain, turn the compressor over with the pipes facing down over a prepared container. It is best to use an old canister with the neck cut off. The process may take a long time because the oil is thick and drains slowly. Some craftsmen recommend slightly heating the body with a hair dryer to increase the fluidity of the liquid, but this must be done carefully.
After the liquid stops dripping, the internal cavities may still contain oil vapors and gas residues. Purge housing the body with compressed air will help remove volatile fractions, reducing the risk of ignition when cutting. This is a critically important stage, neglect of which can cost your health.
| Compressor type | Approximate weight of copper (g) | Oil type | Disposal features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Piston (linear) | 150 - 250 | Mineral | Heavy body, a lot of steel |
| Piston (crank) | 200 - 350 | Synthetic | Classical design |
| Inverter | 100 - 200 | Specific | Sophisticated electronics, less copper |
| Sealed (small) | 80 - 150 | Mineral | Used in minibars |
Methods of opening a sealed case
The most labor-intensive and dangerous stage is violating the integrity of the steel casing. The factory welding is very high quality, so simply “opening” it will not work. There are two main methods: mechanical (cutting) and thermal (burning), however, only the first is suitable for garage conditions.
Using an angle grinder requires maximum concentration. You need to make a circular cut along the equator of the body, where the two hemispheres connect. Hold the tool firmly as the blade may jam in the metal. It is recommended to make not one deep cut, but several shallow ones in a circle, gradually going deeper.
⚠️ Attention: When working with an angle grinder, always use a protective shield. A flying disc or piece of metal can cause serious injury. Do not neglect the “two hands” rule when working with a tool.
An alternative, rougher method is to use a sledgehammer and chisel. Notches are made along the perimeter of the weld, after which they try to split the weld with strong blows. This method is less precise and may damage the internals, but it does not require electricity. If your goal is only copper, the integrity of the winding is not important with this method.
Some craftsmen try to use a cutting torch, but this is extremely dangerous due to oil residues and the possible presence of flammable gases. Sparking inside a closed volume with oil vapor can lead to popping. Therefore, mechanical cutting remains the most controlled method.
Removing the stator and unwinding the winding
After opening the housing, you will see the internal structure: a cylinder, a piston group and an electric motor. We are interested in the electric motor, or more precisely, its stator with copper wound on it. The stator is a set of metal plates pulled together with coils inside.
To remove the stator, it is often necessary to destroy the cylinder and piston group, since they are rigidly connected to the motor shaft. Use a chisel and hammer to separate the mechanical part from the electrical part. Your task is to gain access to the ends of the winding.
The secret of quick extraction
Experienced metal detectors do not unwind the wire manually. They cut through the winding on one side of the stator with a grinder or an ax, and then knock out a bundle of wires on the opposite side. This speeds up the process significantly.
If you want to keep the wire as long as possible (which is sometimes required for recycling, although this is not important for scrap), you can try to carefully remove the coils. However, the method most often used is biting the frontal parts windings on one side of the stator. After this, from the reverse side, the bundle of copper wires is easily knocked out with a blow.
Separate the copper wires from the set of stator plates. The stator package is black steel, which is sold separately and costs less. Copper is the main target product of this operation. Strip the wires from varnish insulation if the receiving point requires pure copper, although insulation with a lower coefficient is often accepted.
Sorting metal and assessing product yield
The resulting material must be sorted. The compressor contains not only copper, but also aluminum (in some models the winding may be aluminum, which is found in cheap or very old models), steel and cast iron residues. It is important to distinguish copper from tinned copper or bimetal.
Copper has a characteristic reddish-pink color at the break. Aluminum is silver and much lighter. If the wire is covered with a silvery coating, but the inside is yellow or red, this is tinning; such copper is valued slightly lower than pure copper. Weigh the result obtained to understand the effectiveness of the effort expended.
- 🥇 Copper (M1, M2) is the most expensive component, requires cleaning from insulation for the maximum price.
- 🥈 Aluminum - less common, much cheaper, requires separate delivery.
- ⚙️ Steel (frame, body) - sold as black scrap, weighs the most, but is cheap.
The cost of copper at collection points fluctuates (changes) depending on stock exchange quotes. Before your trip, it makes sense to call the nearest points, checking the current price for “burnt” (cleaned) and “mix” (with insulation). This will help you understand whether the gamble was worth the candle.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Approximately how much copper can be obtained from one compressor?
On average, a standard household refrigerator compressor comes out of 150 to 350 grams of copper. The exact amount depends on engine power, year of manufacture and manufacturer. In inverter models, there may be less copper due to a different motor design.
Can the winding be made of aluminum?
Yes, in some budget models or old-style refrigerators (especially Soviet-made in the late 80s) there was aluminum winding. It has a silver color when cut and is lighter than copper. You can determine the material by the color on a fresh file.
Is it dangerous to open the compressor yourself?
Yes, it is dangerous. The main risks: scattering of metal fragments when cutting, eye injury, cuts from sharp edges, and the possibility of ignition of oil vapors. Safety glasses, gloves and work in a ventilated area away from fire are required.
What to do with industrial oil from a compressor?
Industrial oil is a waste of hazard class 3-4. It should not be poured into the ground or sewer. Collect it in a sealed container and hand it over to a special waste oil collection point or hazardous waste collection point, if there is one in your city.