The situation when the refrigerator began to crackoften takes the owner by surprise, causing concern for the safety of products and expensive equipment. In most cases, this sound does not indicate a fatal breakdown, but is a consequence of physical processes or minor disturbances in the operation of components. However, you cannot ignore extraneous noise, as it may indicate problems with the compressor or defrost system.
First, you need to carefully listen to the nature of the sound: is it periodic crackling, a loud crackling noise when turned on, or a constant hum with vibration? The location of the noise also matters - whether the sound comes from inside the chamber, from behind the unit, or from below where the motor is located. Understanding these nuances will allow you to save time and money, possibly by fixing the problem without calling a technician.
Physiological causes of crackling: when you shouldn’t worry
New users are often frightened by the sounds that a working unit makes. If your refrigerator has just defrosted or you have loaded it with a lot of warm food, then crackling of plastic this is absolutely normal. The inner walls of the chamber and the evaporator are made of materials with different coefficients of thermal expansion. When there is a sudden change in temperature (for example, during a defrost cycle), the plastic contracts or expands, producing characteristic clicks and crackles.
This is especially often observed in models with a system No Frostwhere cyclic temperature changes occur regularly. In older models, the sound may be louder due to wear and tear on the materials, but the essence of the process remains the same. If the crackling noise is heard rarely and only at moments when the compressor is not working or has just turned off, then from a technical point of view the unit is working.
However, you should be wary if the nature of the sound has changed. Normal crackling sounds are short, single clicks. If you hear a series of frequent knocks or a sound reminiscent of walking in the snow, this may indicate that the plastic evaporator box is fixed too tightly or is deformed.
⚠️ Attention: If the cracking sound is accompanied by the smell of burning or melted plastic, immediately unplug the device. This may indicate overheating of the wiring or contacts.
Why does a new refrigerator crack?
New refrigerators often make more noise in the first weeks of operation. This is due to the fact that all the moving parts and fasteners have not yet gotten used to each other. Also, internal stresses may remain in the new plastic, which are released during the first cooling cycles, causing a louder crackling sound than in older devices.
Problems with the compressor and starting relay
If the refrigerator crackled at the moment you try to start the engine, but the compressor itself does not turn on, the problem most likely lies in starting relay or motor windings. The start relay is a small mechanism that provides the impulse to start the compressor. Over time, the contacts in the relay can oxidize or burn, which causes an electric arc and a characteristic crackling sound.
In more serious cases, the cracking noise is made by itself compressor. This can happen if there is an internal break in the valves or jamming of the piston group. The engine tries to start, hums, makes a metallic clang or crackling sound, but then stalls as the thermal protection is triggered. It is strictly forbidden to operate the equipment in this mode - this will lead to permanent failure of the motor.
You can diagnose the malfunction by reaching the motor at the back of the unit. If, when plugged into the network, you hear a click from the relay, followed by a crackling and buzzing sound that lasts 3-5 seconds, followed by silence, the relay needs to be replaced. If the sound comes directly from the “pot” of the motor, professional repair is necessary.
- 🔊 Symptoms: Loud clicking, humming, crackling at startup, lack of cooling.
- 🛠 Solution: Replacing the start-protection relay (do-it-yourself) or repairing the compressor.
- ⚡ Risk: Repeated attempts to start may damage the motor winding.
Faults in the No Frost system and fan
In refrigerators with an automatic defrosting system (No Frost), the fan is a common cause of rattling noise. It is located in the freezer behind the back wall and is responsible for circulating cold air. If a “coat” of ice has formed on the evaporator (due to a malfunction of the defrost heating element or timer), the fan blades begin to touch the ice build-up.
This sound is very specific: it resembles the crackling or noise of a running meat grinder. The rotating blades hit hard ice, which can damage the fan itself or damage the blades. In some cases, a cracking noise is heard only when the door is opened, since in many models the fan continues to work for a few seconds after opening, or, conversely, turns on at that very moment.
Dried grease in the fan bearings can also be a source of noise. In this case, the sound will be more monotonous and rotating, but with severe wear it can turn into a crackling sound. To fix it, you need to defrost the refrigerator (for at least 24 hours) and check the free movement of the blades.
Vibration and touching external elements
Sometimes the answer to the question “why is the refrigerator cracking” is banal and lies in incorrect installation. Vibration from a running compressor is transmitted to the housing and can cause resonance with nearby objects. If the unit is located close to a wall, heating pipe or other piece of furniture, vibration will cause rattling and cracking at the points of contact.
Also, loose elements of the refrigerator itself can serve as a source of noise. Check to see if the rear metal grille (condenser) is loose or if the water collection tray above the motor is over-inflated. Even a small play can create a loud sound when the motor is running.
Do not forget about the installation level. If the refrigerator does not stand on all four legs, the cabinet may twist, which increases vibration and leads to extraneous sounds. Adjusting the legs is a simple procedure that often eliminates the problem.
☑️ Diagnosis of external noise
Comparative table of symptoms and causes
For quick diagnosis, use the table below. It will help to compare the nature of the sound with a probable malfunction.
| Character of the sound | When it occurs | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single clicks | Periodically, during operation and idle | Thermal expansion of plastic | Not required |
| Loud crackling and buzzing | At the moment of switching on | Malfunction of the start relay or compressor | Medium/High |
| Meat grinder noise/friction | Continuous or cyclical | The fan touches the ice (No Frost) | Medium (defrosting) |
| Metal clanging | When the motor is running | Touching tubes or housing parts | Low |
| Crackling inside the chamber | When opening the door | Breakage of the damper or fan | Average |
When you need to call a technician
There are situations when independent repairs may be dangerous or impractical. If after complete defrosting (lasting at least a day) The refrigerator continues to crack it does not cool, the problem lies deep in the system. This could be a broken valve in the compressor, a clogged capillary tube, or a freon leak.
Intervention in the refrigerant circulation system requires special equipment: a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station and soldering skills. In addition, improper refilling of freon can completely kill the compressor. If you hear a whistle coming from the pipes at the back, or see oily spots under the unit, call a specialist.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to open the sealed circuit yourself or replace the compressor without the appropriate experience. This can lead to injuries and complete failure of the equipment.
Prevention and operating rules
To extend the life of the refrigerator and avoid cracking noises associated with overloads, follow simple rules. Do not load food into the chambers if the temperature is significantly higher than room temperature. This creates an extreme load on the compressor and causes strong thermal expansion of materials.
Regularly, at least once a year, completely defrost the unit, even if you have a system. No Frost. This will help remove microscopic ice build-up in hard-to-reach areas, which can become a problem for the fan over time. Also keep an eye on the cleanliness of the condenser at the back - dust and animal hair worsen heat transfer, causing the motor to work harder and noisier.
Maintaining the temperature in the room is also important. If the refrigerator is located near the radiator or in direct sunlight, its resources are depleted faster, and the likelihood of defects causing noise increases.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator rattle only at night?
At night, the overall noise level in the apartment decreases, and you you begin to notice sounds that were inaudible during the day. In addition, at night the voltage in the electrical network may stabilize or, conversely, jump, which affects the operation of the compressor. Most often, this is simply a more clearly audible crack of plastic from expansion.
Can a new refrigerator crack?
Yes, new refrigerators often make sounds during the first cycles of operation. This is when the parts are ground in and the plastic cools down after transportation and packaging. If the sound does not turn into a loud clang or hum, this is normal.
Is it dangerous if the refrigerator crackles and stops freezing?
This is a critical situation. The combination of extraneous sound and lack of cold indicates a serious breakdown (compressor, relay, leak). It is necessary to unplug the device from the outlet, defrost it and call a technician.
How to distinguish a plastic crack from a breakdown?
A plastic crack is usually short, similar to a click, and is not accompanied by other sounds (humming, vibration). Mechanical failure is often accompanied by a change in the rhythm of the motor, the appearance of a hum or knocking.