The situation when your Hotpoint-Ariston refrigerator stops freezing always takes you by surprise. Products begin to deteriorate, and condensation appears on the shelves or, conversely, the cold disappears. This is a common problem faced by owners of equipment of this brand, and it can be caused by both trivial reasons and serious technical malfunctions. Understanding the nature of the failure is the first step to restoring the unit's performance.
Before calling a technician or looking for spare parts, it is necessary to conduct an initial diagnosis. Often the reason lies in improper operation or minor breakdown, which you can fix yourself. However, ignoring the symptoms can lead to the failure of expensive compressor. In this article we will look in detail why Ariston refrigerator turns on, but does not freeze, and how to determine the source of the problem.
It is important to consider that modern models such as Hotpoint-Ariston HF 8201 or HF 9201, are equipped with sophisticated control electronics. Malfunctions in the sensors or control module can simulate a breakdown of the refrigeration circuit. Therefore, the approach to diagnostics must be consistent and logical so as not to make mistakes that will aggravate the situation.
Primary diagnostics: analysis of sounds and indications
The first thing you need to pay attention to is the sound of the unit operating. If The refrigerator does not freeze, but at the same time it makes the usual sounds of a running engine, the problem may be in the circulation of the refrigerant. Normally, you should hear a quiet hum from the compressor and periodic gurgling or hissing, indicating movement Freon through the system. The absence of these sounds often indicates that the refrigerant has evaporated through microcracks.
Pay attention to the indicator lights on the control panel. Models with a system No Frost or Total No Frost often indicate a malfunction by flashing temperature lights or emitting a sound signal. For example, if the “Alarm” or temperature indicator is flashing, this is a direct indication that temperature mode is broken. Ignoring these signals can lead to complete defrosting of the chambers.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a loud knock or clicking when you try to start the engine, and then silence, under no circumstances try to turn on the device again. This is a sign of a malfunction of the starting relay or the compressor itself, and further operation may permanently damage the unit.
It is also worth checking whether the motor-compressor is on fire. Touch the rear radiator grille (condenser). If it is cold, although the motor is running, this is a sure sign Freon leaks or blockage of the capillary system. If the grill is hot and the chambers are warm, the air circulation may be impaired or the fan is not working.
What do the error codes on the display mean?
Codes F01-F15 may appear on the display. For example, F01 indicates a malfunction of the temperature sensor, and F06 indicates problems with the motor-compressor. The exact decoding depends on the specific model and year of manufacture.
Problems with the No Frost defrosting system
Refrigerators Hotpoint-Ariston with the system No Frost are susceptible to specific malfunctions associated with ice freezing in hidden cavities. If the unit hums but does not cool, most likely one of the elements of the automatic defrost system has failed. Ice blocks the cold air supply channels, and it simply does not enter the chambers.
The main culprits in this chain are the defrost heating element, defrost sensor or timer. When the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt in defrost mode, building up layer by layer. Eventually the fan begins to touch the ice coat, which leads to its breakdown or jamming. As a result air circulation stops completely.
- ❄️ Defrost heating element: Heating element that melts the ice on the evaporator; its burnout is the most common reason.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor: Controls the temperature of the evaporator and turns off the heating element when the desired value is reached; if it “lies”, defrosting will not start.
- ⏱️ Timer or module: Controls cooling and defrosting cycles; a failure in its operation disrupts the entire operating algorithm.
Diagnostics often require complete defrosting of the refrigerator within 24 hours. If after this it starts to freeze normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returns, then the defrosting system is indeed faulty and requires replacement of components. Replacing the heating element yourself requires disassembling the back wall of the freezer.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Faults in the compressor and start relay
Compressor - this is the heart of the refrigerator, creating pressure for the circulation of the refrigerant. If it doesn't start, there won't be any cold anywhere. In Ariston refrigerators, there are often situations when the motor tries to start, hums for a few seconds, then a click is heard and it goes silent. This is a classic symptom of a faulty start relay or motor windings.
The start relay is a small plastic block that fits over the contacts of the compressor. Over time, its contacts burn out, or the internal coil fails. Replacing the relay is a simple procedure that takes 10 minutes and requires no special tools other than a screwdriver. However, if after replacing the relay the situation does not change, the problem is deeper.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| The motor is humming 5-10 seconds and clicks | Start relay or compressor wedge | Low / High | Replace the relay, check the compressor |
| The motor is hot, but silent | Thermal protection or interturn short circuit | High | Call a technician, replace the motor |
| Motor runs constantly | Freon leakage or wear | Average | Refill or replacement |
If the compressor operates continuously without shutting down, but there is little cold, this may indicate a loss of performance of the piston group. The motor drives freon, but does not create enough pressure. In such cases replacing the compressor is the only effective solution, since repairing the old one is often not economically feasible.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing a compressor or start relay, be sure to make sure that the new part has identical characteristics to the original. Installing an unsuitable relay can lead to burnout of the motor windings.
Freon leakage and system blockage
One of the most unpleasant reasons the refrigerator has stopped freezingis a refrigerant leak. Freon is a gas that circulates in a closed circuit. If a microcrack appears in the tubes or connections, the gas gradually evaporates. It is difficult to notice this visually, since freon is colorless and odorless.
Leaks often occur in places where the tubes are soldered or in the foamed part of the body where the evaporator is located. In models with a weeping evaporator (drip system), corrosion can attack the steel tube inside the wall. In systems No Frost the door heating circuit or evaporator often suffers. If there is a leak, pressure in the system falls, and freon stops boiling at the required temperature, without taking heat from the chambers.
Another problem is blockage of the capillary tube. This can happen due to moisture that entered the system during a previous repair, or due to oil breakdown products. As a result, an ice or oil plug forms, which physically blocks the movement of refrigerant. The symptoms are the same: the engine is running, but there is no cold.
Diagnosing these faults at home is impossible without a pressure gauge manifold. The technician connects the equipment, checks the pressure and looks for a leak using a leak detector. Repair involves finding a hole, sealing it, vacuuming the system and filling with a new portion freon strictly by weight.
Failures in the operation of the electronic control module
Modern refrigerators Hotpoint-Ariston are controlled electronically. Control module receives signals from temperature sensors and makes a decision to turn on or off the compressor and fans. If the control board fails, it may simply not send a command to start the motor, even if everything is fine with the motor itself.
The reasons for module failure are varied: voltage surges in the network, moisture, manufacturing defects, or simply wear and tear of components. In some cases, the board shows signs of burning or swollen capacitors, but often it appears to be in good working order. A failure in the firmware can also lead to incorrect operation.
- 🔌 Power surges: Sudden changes in the network damage the sensitive electronics of the module.
- 💧 Moisture: Condensation or water leakage can cause a short circuit on the board.
- 🔄 Software failure: An error in the software requires flashing or replacing the chip.
Repairing the control module requires the qualifications of a radio engineer. It is often cheaper and more reliable to replace the entire board with a new one. However, before doing this, you need to make sure that this is the problem and not the sensors that are sending incorrect signals. An error in the sensor readings can make a working module “think” that the refrigerator is already cold.
Mechanical damage and wear of seals
Sometimes the reason that the refrigerator does not keep coldis trivial and lies in a violation of the chamber's tightness. Rubber seal on the door dries out, cracks or deforms over time. Through the formed cracks, warm air constantly enters the chamber, and the unit does not have time to cool it, working for wear.
It is easy to check the seal: close the door, holding a sheet of paper between it and the body. If the sheet is pulled out without resistance anywhere along the perimeter, it means the seal is broken. It is also worth checking the door hinges: if they are loose, the door warps and does not fit tightly, even if the rubber band is intact.
Mechanical damage can also include a violation of the integrity of the internal plastic casing, which happens when defrosting carelessly with a knife. A puncture of the evaporator is a critical situation that requires immediate disconnection of the device from the network. In this case, the freon comes out very quickly, and air and moisture get inside, causing corrosion.
⚠️ Attention: Never use sharp objects (knives, screwdrivers) to speed up the defrosting of ice. A puncture of the evaporator will lead to freon leakage and moisture entering the system, which will make repairs difficult and expensive.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why does the Hotpoint-Ariston refrigerator hum, but does not freeze after defrosting?
If after complete defrosting (24 hours) the refrigerator turned on, worked for a couple of hours and stopped freezing again, most likely the defrosting system (heating element, sensor or timer) is faulty. Ice blocked the channels again.
Is it possible to fill the refrigerator with freon yourself?
No, this requires special equipment (vacuum pump, scales, pressure gauges) and skills. Incorrect refueling will lead to compressor failure.
What to do if there is ice in the freezer and heat in the refrigerator?
This is a sign of a malfunction of the No Frost system or a freon leak. Check if the fan in the freezer is working. If so, you need to diagnose the defrost system or search for a leak.
How long should the refrigerator cool down after transportation before turning it on?
If the refrigerator was transported lying down, it needs to stand upright for at least 4-8 hours (or better yet, a day) so that the oil flows into the compressor. Otherwise, water hammer is possible.
Why does ice appear on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment?
In drip systems this is normal during the cooling cycle, but the ice should drain off. If the ice grows like a “fur coat” and does not melt, the drainage hole may be clogged or the heating element for defrosting the pan is not working.