The situation when the freezer in the refrigerator suddenly stops working Indesitalways takes you by surprise. Products begin to deteriorate, and a puddle appears on the shelves or, conversely, a snow coat grows. The owner is faced with a dilemma: urgently call a repairman or try to find the cause on his own. Modern two-chamber models, such as Indesit DF 520 or Indesit C 138, are equipped with a complex No Frost system, where the failure of one element can paralyze the operation of the entire circuit.
Before you panic and look for a service center phone number, it is necessary to conduct an initial diagnosis. Often the problem lies not in a compressor breakdown, but in a banal violation of operating rules or electronics failures. In this article, we will analyze in detail why the freezer in the Indesit refrigerator does not work, and we will consider an action algorithm for troubleshooting it yourself.
You should understand that cold is supplied to the lower or upper chamber (depending on the model) forcibly or by natural convection. If the air circulation is disrupted, the temperature will no longer drop to the desired values. Thermostat it may not give a signal to turn on, or the refrigerant simply does not reach the evaporator. It is important to distinguish situations when the freezer is working, but weakly, from the complete absence of cold.
Primary diagnosis and simple causes
The most common reason that the Indesit refrigerator has stopped freezing is trivial - a leak or a power outage. Check if the door fits tightly. If the rubber seal worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly flows inside. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat, working to wear out, but at some point the protection system turns it off, and the temperature begins to rise.
The second important point is the position of the thermostat. In mechanical models, the handle could accidentally move to the “0” or “Min” position. In electronic models with a display, a power surge may have occurred, causing the settings to change. Try setting the mode Super Freeze or simply set the average value corresponding to the instructions for your model Indesit.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the refrigerator door is skewed or the hinges are sagging, do not try to forcefully slam it. This will lead to rupture of the seal and further disruption of the tightness of the circuit.
It is also worth checking whether air access is blocked. In models with the system No Frost cold air is pumped by a fan through special channels. If food is placed close to the back wall of the freezer and blocks the openings, circulation stops. As a result, it is warm in the main chamber, and an ice lump may form in the freezer only at the evaporator.
⚠️ Attention: Design details and location of air ducts may vary depending on the year of manufacture of the model. It is recommended to check the diagram of your device in the official user manual.
You can conduct a simple test to quickly check the effectiveness of the device. Leave the refrigerator empty for 30-40 minutes at medium temperature. If during this time the inside has not become noticeably colder, the problem is of a technical nature. If cold appears, it means that the problem was an overload of products or improper placement of them.
Problems with defrosting and the No Frost system
One of the most common malfunctions in refrigerators Indesit with the No Frost system is the failure of the defrost system. The essence of the problem is that ice builds up on the evaporator, which is hidden behind a plastic panel in the freezer. This ice blocks the fan, and cold air stops flowing into the chambers. Visually, this can manifest itself as swelling of the rear wall of the freezer.
Several components are responsible for the defrosting process: Defrost heating element, a defrost sensor (defroster) and a fuse. If the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt. If the sensor “lies” and does not give a command to turn on the heating, the result is the same. In some cases, the defrost timer or the electronic control module breaks down and simply “forgets” to start the defrost cycle.
This problem can be diagnosed by indirect signs. The compressor may work longer than usual or, conversely, turn on rarely, but it is still warm inside. You can often hear the fan humming, trying to break through the ice jam, or it is silent because it is jammed with ice. In such cases, complete defrosting of the refrigerator is required within 10-12 hours.
☑️ Actions if you suspect an ice jam
After a long defrosting, turn on the device. If it began to gain temperature and freeze, then the problem was in the defrost system. However, this is a temporary solution. After 1-2 weeks, the ice will build up again and the cycle will repeat. For final repairs, you will need to replace the burnt element: heating element, sensor or fuse.
Why can’t you pick the ice with a knife?
Mechanical damage to the evaporator (aluminum tube) will lead to an instant release of freon. Repair in this case will cost 70% of the cost of a new refrigerator, since the circuit will need to be overcooked and refilled.
Malfunctions of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator Indesit. If it does not start or works intermittently, the freezer stops cooling. Owners often confuse a compressor breakdown with a faulty start relay. A relay is a small plastic block that fits onto the compressor contacts. It is this that gives the starting impulse to the engine.
Symptoms of a relay malfunction are quite typical: the refrigerator hums for a few seconds, then a click is heard and the motor goes silent. After some time (from 5 to 20 minutes), the cycle repeats. In this case, the compressor itself may be working properly, but cannot start. Replacing the relay is a simple procedure that you can perform yourself by selecting an analogue according to the marking.
If the compressor is completely silent, not making any sounds, or, conversely, hums continuously, but does not cool, the situation is more serious. The following options are possible:
- 🔌 Breakage of the winding engine - the compressor needs to be replaced.
- 🛑 Jagging piston group - the motor hums, but the shaft does not rotate.
- 📉 Drop in performance - the compressor is working, but does not create the required pressure in the system.
To check the pressure and accurately diagnose the condition of the compressor, a pressure gauge station is required. Without special equipment, you can only determine if the engine is alive indirectly: by touching the tubes on the rear grille. If after 15 minutes of operation one tube is hot and the other is cold (or room temperature), the compressor most likely does not pump freon.
Freon leakage and capillary blockage system
The refrigerant (freon) circulates in a closed circuit. If a microcrack occurs in the system, the gas gradually evaporates. In models Indesit with a foamed evaporator (tubes inside the housing walls), leaks often occur due to metal corrosion under the influence of moisture. It is difficult to notice this visually until the refrigerator stops freezing completely.
Signs of a freon leak:
- ❄️ The freezer is working, but the temperature is higher than normal (for example, -8°C instead of -18°C).
- 🔥 The condenser (grid at the back) remains cold or barely warm.
- 🧊 The compressor works non-stop, trying to gain temperature.
- 💧 Oily spots may appear at the leak site (rarely, but it happens), as freon circulates along with the oil.
Another common problem is clogged capillary tube. In the narrow channel where freon throttling occurs, a piece of oxide or technical dirt may get stuck. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor is humming, there is no pressure, there is no cold. The difference is that when clogged, the filter-drier at the outlet of the compressor may become covered with frost or, conversely, be very hot.
Repair in both cases is complex and requires calling a specialist. It is necessary to find the location of the leak (using nitrogen pressure testing), seal it, replace the filter drier and fill the system with new freon. It is impossible to do this work on your own without a vacuum pump and refueling scales.
Comparative table of symptoms and causes
To quickly navigate the problem, use the table below. It will help to compare the observed signs with the most likely causes of your breakdown Indesit.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor turns on for 10 seconds, clicks and turns off | The starting relay is faulty or the compressor is jammed | Low (replacement of the relay) |
| The refrigerator hums, but does not freeze, it is warm in the back | Freon leak or blockage capillary | High (needs a technician) |
| There is a coat of ice in the freezer, warm in the refrigerator compartment | Failure of the defrost system (heating element, sensor, timer) | Medium (replacement details) |
| Temperature fluctuates, food either freezes or melts | Thermostat or temperature sensor is faulty | Low/Medium |
| Fan noise, humming, lack of cold | Icing of the evaporator (No Frost problem) | Medium (defrosting + repair) |
When analyzing the symptoms, it is important to take into account the age of the equipment. For older models, freon leaks due to corrosion are more typical, and for new ones - electronic failures or problems with sensors. Accurate diagnostics are only possible by consistently eliminating simple causes (defrosting, settings) before checking complex components.
Electronics: control module and sensors
Modern refrigerators Indesit (especially series Ariston and new lines) are controlled by an electronic module. It receives signals from temperature sensors and makes a decision to turn on the compressor, fan or heating element. If the “brains” of the refrigerator are faulty, it may not start cooling, even if all mechanical parts are working properly.
A common cause of failures is power surges in the network. Electronics are sensitive to changes. As a result, the temperature sensor may transmit incorrect data (for example, show -10°C when the chamber is +5°C). The module “thinks” that there is cold and does not turn on the compressor. Visually, this looks like complete inoperability.
A multimeter is often required to diagnose electronics. It is necessary to “ring” the sensors for resistance. If the sensor shows an open or short circuit, it needs to be replaced. Sometimes the problem lies in the oxidation of contacts in the wiring connectors, especially in the lower part of the refrigerator, where moisture can accumulate.
⚠️ Attention: Before carrying out any work on electrical components (sensors, relays, module), be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the network. Electric shock or a short circuit can permanently damage the equipment.
If you do not have the skills to work with electronics and a soldering iron, it is better not to get into the control module. Incorrectly resoldering a capacitor or triac can lead to a fire. In such cases, it is more advisable to replace the entire module or contact service.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why did the Indesit refrigerator work after defrosting? but after a week it stopped freezing again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrosting system (heating element, sensor or timer). Defrosting removed the ice plug, and the cold went away. But since the heating element is not working, ice has again accumulated on the evaporator and blocked the air. The burnt part of the No Frost system needs to be replaced.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the freezer does not work, but the refrigerator compartment freezes?
For a short time - yes, so that the food in the main compartment does not disappear. However, continuous operation in this mode is dangerous for the compressor, which will work to wear out, trying to compensate for the heat. In addition, mold and an unpleasant odor will develop in a non-working chamber.
How much does it cost to repair if a compressor burns out in Indesit?
Replacing a compressor is one of the most expensive procedures. It includes the cost of a new motor, desoldering/soldering work, evacuation and refilling with freon. Often the cost of such repairs is 50-70% of the price of a new refrigerator, so sometimes it is more profitable to buy new equipment.
How to check whether the defrosting heating element is working at home?
To do this, you need a multimeter in resistance measurement mode (Ohms). You need to get to the heating element (usually it is located behind the back panel in the freezer), disconnect the wires and measure the resistance. If the device shows infinity (break), the heating element has burned out and requires replacement.