Having discovered that refrigerator compressor it has become hot, many owners of household appliances begin to panic, and this is understandable. The motor-compressor is the heart of the cooling system, and its incorrect operation can lead to food spoilage and costly repairs. In normal operating mode, this unit actually heats up, as the refrigerant is compressed under high pressure, which is inevitably accompanied by the release of heat.
However, there is a fine line between a normal increase in temperature and a critical one overheatingwhich signals a malfunction. If you cannot touch the motor housing without pain, or if it runs continuously without stopping to rest, this is a clear sign of a problem. In such a situation, it is urgent to understand the reasons in order to prevent the final failure of an expensive unit.
Modern models, be it Indesit, Beko or Atlant, are equipped with protective relays, but they do not always have time to save the windings from burnout during long-term operation wear Understanding the physical processes occurring inside the circuit will help you correctly diagnose the problem and decide whether you need to call a technician or whether the situation can be corrected yourself. Let's take a detailed look at the main factors that provoke thermal overload.
Natural causes of heating and normal operation
Before sounding the alarm, you should make sure that the observed phenomenon is not the norm. Operating temperature The compressor housing can reach 60-90 degrees Celsius, depending on the model and load. This happens because the refrigerant, passing through the compressor, heats up and then gives off some of this heat through a condenser radiator, which is often located on the side walls or rear grille.
The heating intensity directly depends on the operating mode. If you have just loaded a lot of warm food into the chamber or defrosted the refrigerator, the motor will work in enhanced mode MAX COOLING until the set temperature is restored. During this period, the engine housing can be very hot, but after reaching the target values it should turn off.
⚠️ Attention: A normal cycle is considered to be in which the compressor runs for about 15-20 minutes and then rests for 10-15 minutes. If the refrigerator hums continuously for hours, this is already a pathology.
It is also worth considering the design features. In some models LG or Samsung with inverter compressors, heating is distributed differently than in classic linear units. Inverters run constantly, but at low speeds, so their temperature is stable, but does not always feel high. However, with a sharp surge in voltage or peak load, even they can overheat.
Problems with heat exchange and ventilation
One of the most common reasons why the compressor overheatsis a banal violation of heat dissipation. something interferes with this process, the temperature inside the system begins to rise like an avalanche, forcing the motor to work with increased load.
Often users forget about the need to leave a gap between the back wall of the refrigerator and the furniture. The minimum distance should be at least 5-7 cm. If the refrigerator is built into a niche or pushed close to the wall, it is hot. the air does not escape from the condenser, but circulates around the compressor, creating a “heat bag” effect.
In addition, dust and animal hair can clog the radiator grill. A dirty condenser loses its efficiency, and the system has to work longer to achieve the same result. start relay the motor itself experiences constant thermal overload.
☑️ Checking ventilation conditions
Particular attention should be paid to the location of the equipment. Installing the refrigerator next to the hob, oven or in direct sunlight significantly increases the ambient temperature (ambient temperature) In such conditions compressor is forced to compensate. external heating, which leads to its overheating.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and sensors
If the ventilation is fine, the problem may lie in the “brains” of the temperature control system. Thermoregulator (thermostat) is responsible for turning the compressor on and off. If its contacts stick in the “on” position or it loses calibration, the refrigerator ceases to understand that the required temperature has already been reached.
In this case, the motor works without stopping, trying to cool the chamber to a non-existent minimum. Naturally, continuous operation without rest cycles leads to critical heating of the windings. In modern models with electronic control, the evaporator temperature sensor or air sensor, the signal from which is processed by the module, is responsible for this. controls.
Diagnosis of this malfunction often requires a multimeter. It is necessary to check the resistance of the thermostat at different temperatures. If during cooling (for example, when placed in a freezer) the contacts do not open, this is one of the most common reasons why the compressor does not stop working and gets very hot. data-i="95">Symptom.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Actions |
|---|---|---|
| The refrigerator does not turn off | The thermostat is faulty | Replacing the thermostat |
| The compressor is hot, but there is no cold | Freon leak | Looking for leaks and refueling |
| A click is heard, the engine does not start | The starter burnt out relay | Replacing the relay |
| Intermittent humming | Problems with windings | Motor diagnostics |
It is important to note that in some cases the thermostat itself may be faulty is working, but its capillary tube does not fit well to the evaporator. This leads to incorrect reading of the temperature. In models Stinol or Biryusa the fastening of the tube often weakens over time.
Refrigerant leakage and circulation problems.
Freon leakage is an insidious problem that is often disguised as other malfunctions. When there is less refrigerant. data-i="117">If there is a leak, the compressor can work almost continuously, trying to compensate for the lack of refrigerant. In this case, the evaporator (inside the chamber) will be only partially cold or will remain warm. The motor in this situation heats up very much, since there is no normal heat removal from the returning gas, which in a working system cools the engine housing.in the system, the compressor has to pump a larger volume of gas (which is physically less) to create the required pressure. This leads to idling with overheating.
If there is a leak, the compressor may run almost continuously trying to compensate for the lack of refrigerant. In this case, the evaporator (inside the chamber) will be only partially cold or will remain warm. The motor in such a situation heats up very much, since there is no normal heat removal from the returning gas, which in a working system cools the engine housing.
⚠️ Attention: Self-filling the refrigerator with freon without evacuation. system and leak detection is prohibited. This will not solve the problem, since the gas will escape through the hole again, and the compressor will burn out completely.
It is difficult to determine a leak visually, since freon is colorless and odorless, however, you can pay attention to swelling on the condenser tubes or a characteristic hissing sound when punctured (which is not recommended to do in places). sealing tubes or in the foamed part of the body.
Why can’t you ignore a freon leak?
If you continue to operate a refrigerator with a leak, the compressor will work at the limit of its capabilities. The oil in the system will begin to burn, forming acid, which will corrode the motor windings from the inside. This leads to an interturn short circuit and an expensive replacement of the motor.
Faults in the starting relay and windings
Start relay is a small mechanism responsible for starting the engine and turning off the starting winding after gaining speed. If the relay is faulty, the contacts may burn, creating high contact resistance. This causes sparking and additional heating at the junction, which is transferred to the compressor housing.
A more serious problem is an interturn short circuit in the windings of the motor itself. In this case, electric motor consumes increased current, hums louder than usual and heats up very quickly. The protective relay may click when trying to start the motor, but it will immediately stall or run jerkily.
You can check the relay by gently shaking it near your ear. If you can hear the ringing of the ball inside, it means the mechanism is destroyed. You can also “ring” the relay with a tester. However, diagnosing the condition of the windings requires professional skills and tools, as it requires opening the casing and measuring the resistance between the contacts.
- 🔌 Burnt capacitor: Some circuits contain a capacitor that smoothes out the inrush currents. Its failure makes it difficult to start, forcing the motor to work in heavy duty.
- 🔩 Mechanical wear: Over time, the rubbing parts inside the compressor wear out, friction increases, which also leads to an increase in temperature.
- ⚡ Voltage surges: An unstable network can damage the electronics or windings, causing asymmetry in the operation of phases (for three-phase motors) or overload.
The influence of oil quality and system clogging
There is no circulation inside the refrigeration circuit only freon, but also a special oil that lubricates the rubbing parts of the compressor. Over time, especially when overheated, the oil may lose its properties, oxidize or coke. Thick oil that has lost its viscosity lubricates parts worse, increasing friction and heating.
Another problem is clogging of the capillary tube. Oil breakdown products or moisture entering the system can turn into an ice plug or mud mass. This creates enormous resistance to the refrigerant flow. The compressor begins to work "at a dead end", the outlet pressure rises to the limit values, and the motor overheats from the colossal load.
The blockage can be diagnosed by characteristic signs: the compressor operates loudly, the pressure at the inlet and outlet is very different from the nominal value, and the condenser can be hot only at the beginning or, conversely, cold. Cleaning the system requires complete disassembly, purging with nitrogen and replacing the filter-drier.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the compressor gets very hot?
Short-term operation before the technician arrives is acceptable if the food begins to deteriorate. However, prolonged operation in this mode is guaranteed to lead to burnout of the motor windings. It is better to turn off the device from the network.
Why does the new refrigerator get hotter than the old one?
Modern refrigerators often have a condenser built into the side walls. During active operation, the sides can heat up to 50-60 degrees. This is normal if ventilation rules are followed. Also, new compressors can be more productive.
How much does it cost to replace a burnt-out compressor?
The cost consists of the price of a new unit, the work of a technician, refilling with freon and replacing the filter. Depending on the model and region, the amount may vary. Often repairing an old motor is not economically feasible.
How to extend the life of a compressor?
Regularly defrost the refrigerator (if there is no Frost), do not put hot foods, keep the rear grill clean and ensure good air flow. It is also recommended to use a voltage stabilizer if there are surges in your network.