Owners of Belarusian-made equipment often encounter a situation where an excess layer of ice forms inside the chamber. If you notice that the back wall of the Atlant refrigerator freezes, this is a signal of a violation of the temperature regime or a malfunction in the automatic defrosting system. Unlike older models with manual defrosting, modern units must independently cope with condensate.
Ignoring this problem can lead to more serious consequences, including failure of the compressor or spoilage of food. The ice “coat” creates an additional thermal load, forcing the motor to wear out. In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of ice formation and methods for eliminating it.
The principle of operation of the No Frost and drip defrosting system
To understand the nature of icing, you need to understand the physics of the process. In models with drip system moisture settles on the rear panel, which is the evaporator. When the compressor stops, the wall heats up and water flows into the drainage tray. If you have a model No Frostthen ice is formed on a hidden evaporator, and air circulates through the chamber through special channels.
The key element here is a thermostat or an electronic control module that controls the on and off cycles. Rear wall c In such systems it acts as the main heat exchanger. Violation of the tightness of the circuit or failures in the sensors lead to the fact that the moisture does not have time to be removed and crystallizes.
It is important to note that a small amount of frost in the form of a matte film is normal for a working unit. The alarm should be sounded when the layer of ice becomes loose, thick or turns into a hard crust that prevents the door from closing.
⚠️ Attention: If you see that ice covers not only the wall, but also the products or shelves, this indicates a critical violation of the temperature regime inside the chamber.
Why is a thick layer dangerous? ice?
A thick ice crust works as a heat insulator. The evaporator ceases to effectively cool the chamber, the compressor is forced to work without interruption, which leads to its overheating and reduced service life. In addition, ice can damage plastic parts and seals.
Natural causes of ice formation and operating errors
Before looking for breakdowns, it is worth eliminating factors that depend on the user. Often ice freezing occurs due to a banal violation of operating rules. For example, if you put a hot pot of soup in the chamber, the cooling system will try to compensate for the sudden change in temperature. Moisture from food actively evaporates and instantly freezes on the coldest surface - the back wall.
Another common reason is a door that is not tightly closed. Even a microscopic gap allows warm air from the room to constantly penetrate inside. The system reacts to an increase in temperature by turning on the compressor, and the incoming moisture settles and freezes. Check the condition sealing rubber: it should be clean, elastic and fit snugly to the body along the entire perimeter.
- ❄️ Frequent and prolonged opening of the door leads to an active influx of moist air.
- 🍲 Installation in the chamber products with high temperatures or open liquid.
- 🧊 Using the “Super Freeze” mode for longer than 24 hours unnecessarily.
- 🚪 Warped door or loose hinges, loose fit.
It is also worth paying attention to the location of the products. If they are pressed tightly against the back panel, this interferes with air circulation. In models with drip system this prevents the water from draining, and it freezes, forming ice. Move the food at least 2-3 cm from the wall.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
If operational factors are excluded, the problem lies in the “electronics” or control mechanics. A thermostat (thermostat) is a device that commands the compressor to turn on when the temperature in the chamber rises above the set temperature. If this element fails or becomes stuck, the compressor can operate continuously. As a result, the back wall becomes supercooled, and moisture from the air freezes on it faster than it can drain.
In modern models Atlant with electronic control, the temperature sensor and the main module are responsible for this process. Faulty sensor can transmit incorrect data about the temperature in the chamber, telling the module that it is warm there, although in fact it is already cold. This forces the cooling system to work in enhanced mode.
Diagnostics of the thermostat is often carried out by the method of elimination. If the compressor does not stop when you turn the control knob to the “Off” position, it means that the contacts inside the thermostat are welded or another breakdown has occurred. Replacing this element requires disassembling the back of the refrigerator or removing the top panel.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Action |
|---|---|---|
| The refrigerator does not turn off | Faulty thermostat | Replacing the thermostat |
| The compressor turns on rarely | Temperature sensor failure | Diagnostics with a multimeter |
| Ice only in the freezer | Problem with the damper | Checking the No Frost system |
| Frost all over the chamber | Freon leak | Call a technician |
Problems with the defrost system (heating element, timer, defrost sensor)
For owners of refrigerators Atlant with a system No Frost or “Crying evaporator” is critically important serviceability of the defrost system. It consists of a heating element (heating element), a defrost sensor and a timer (or electronic module). Periodically, usually every 8-12 hours, the system must turn on the heating element to melt the frost on the evaporator.
If the back wall freezes or an ice coat grows inside the freezer compartment (which then interferes with the cooling of the main chamber), most likely the defrost cycle does not start. This can happen due to a burnt-out heating element, a failure of the defrost sensor (bimetallic or thermal fusel) or a breakdown of the timer. The water does not drain, but builds up layer by layer, turning into a monolithic piece of ice.
You can check the heating element using a multimeter in dial mode. If the resistance is infinite, the heating element has burnt out and needs to be replaced. The defrost sensor is tested for open circuit at a certain temperature. Often, along with the heating element, the sensors are also changed, since their resource is approximately the same.
⚠️ Attention: Trying to chip the ice with a knife or sharp objects can lead to a puncture of the evaporator. If the aluminum tubes are damaged, repairs will not be economically feasible.
☑️ Diagnostics of the defrost system
Refrigerant leak and capillary system clogged
One of the most difficult and unpleasant reasons why the wall freezesis a freon (refrigerant) leak or a blockage in the capillary tube. In this case, the pressure in the system is disrupted, and the refrigerant does not boil in the evaporator, but at the beginning of the circuit or in places not intended for this. This causes local hypothermia of the rear wall of the refrigerator compartment.
A characteristic sign of a leak is that ice may cover only part of the back wall, often on one side or in the form of a “tongue,” while the rest remains warm. In addition, the compressor can work almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but the cold in the chamber does not remain after it is turned off.
Clogged capillary system (usually with moisture or oil breakdown products) gives similar symptoms. It is impossible to eliminate these malfunctions on your own. You need to call a technician who will evacuate the system, replace the filter drier and fill the refrigerator with the exact amount of freon.
Why can’t you just add freon?
If there was a leak in the system, simply adding gas will not help. It is necessary to find the leak, solder it and replace the filter drier, otherwise the new freon will also leave, and the moisture inside the system will cause a new blockage.
Defrosting methods and preventing icing
If you find that the back wall freezes, the first step should be complete defrosting. Unplug the refrigerator, remove all food and leave the doors open for at least 24 hours (for No Frost models) or 12 hours (for drip models). This is necessary so that the ice in the hidden channels and on the evaporator completely melts and the water flows out.
After defrosting, wipe the chamber dry and turn on the unit without load. Let it run for 2-3 hours until it reaches temperature, and only then load the food. If after a few days the situation repeats, then the reason lies in the technical malfunction described above.
For prevention, regularly check the cleanliness of the drainage hole (if your model has one). It can be carefully cleaned with a soft wire or a cotton swab so that the water flows freely into the tray. Also, monitor the condition of the seals and do not overload the chamber with products.
- 🧼 Wash the drainage hole regularly with warm water.
- 🌡️ Do not set the temperature lower than necessary (optimally +3...+5°C).
- 🚪 Make sure that the door closed tightly and until it clicked.
- 📅 Carry out preventive defrosting at least once a year.
Is it possible to speed up defrosting with a hair dryer?
Using a hair dryer is only permissible with great caution. Hot air should not hit plastic parts, as they may become deformed. It is strictly forbidden to direct the hot jet directly to the back wall inside the chamber if you are not sure where the evaporator tubes go - a sudden temperature change can damage the metal. It is better to be patient and defrost naturally.
Why did the ice appear again within a day after defrosting?
This is a sure sign that the defrosting system is not working. Most likely, the evaporator heating element or defrost sensor has burned out. Water from food and air continues to flow, but is not removed automatically. Diagnostics and replacement of faulty elements of the No Frost system are required.
Is it normal for the wall to become covered with frost during operation?
Yes, this is normal. As the compressor operates, the rear wall (evaporator) cools, and moisture from the air condenses on it in the form of droplets or a thin layer of frost. The only problem is a thick, non-melting layer of ice that interferes with the use of the refrigerator.
How often do you need to change the rubber seal?
The service life of the seal is on average 5-7 years, but depends on operating conditions. If the rubber has become hard, cracked, or the door no longer fits tightly (check with a piece of paper), it must be replaced, even if less time has passed since the date of purchase.
Does indoor humidity affect the formation of ice?
Yes, high indoor humidity increases the load on the air dehumidification system inside the refrigerator. Each time the door is opened, more moisture gets inside, which then settles on the walls. In such conditions, it is recommended to check the tightness of the door closure more often.