Suddenly appearing extraneous sound in Kitchen appliances are always a cause for concern. If you notice that the refrigerator periodically clicks, this may be either a variant of the norm or a harbinger of a serious breakdown. A characteristic crackling sound or a single knock often indicates the operation of the thermal expanders of the plastic, but in combination with other symptoms indicates a malfunction of the electrical circuit or mechanics.
It is important not to ignore the signals that your unitgives, especially if the clicks are accompanied by a lack of cold or the roar of the engine. In this article we will look in detail at why these sounds occur, how to carry out initial diagnostics and when it is necessary to call a specialist. Understanding the nature of sound will help save time and money on repairs.
The first thing you need to do is listen to the nature of the sound. A short, loud click every 15-20 minutes is often the norm. A dull, frequent crackling sound or a series of clicks before the engine starts is a sign of a problem. Next, we will look at the main reasons that require your attention.
Physical processes: thermal expansion of materials
The most common and absolutely harmless reason why a refrigerator clicks is physics. The inner walls of the chamber and the housing are made of plastic, and the evaporator tubes are made of metal. When the temperature changes, these materials expand or contract at different rates, producing characteristic sounds.
Such clicks usually occur immediately after the compressor is turned off or at the moment it starts, when the temperature gradient is maximum. The sound resembles a crackling or light clicking sound that can be heard throughout the entire body. If the refrigerator is new, this process may be more pronounced, since the materials have not yet “got used to” each other.
Thermal expansion does not pose a threat to equipment. However, if the clicks become too loud, frequent, or change in tone to a ringing sound, it is worth checking the fastenings of the internal shelves and panels. Sometimes it is enough to simply correct a skewed shelf to eliminate resonance.
⚠️ Attention: If the clicks are accompanied by the appearance of ice that quickly melts, or water collects under the refrigerator, it is not a matter of physics. This may indicate problems with the defrost system or a refrigerant leak.
Malfunction of the compressor start relay
If your refrigerator clicks and does not turn on, or after the click the motor hums for a few seconds and goes silent, the problem lies in the start relay. This small element is responsible for starting the compressor engine. Inside it there is a coil and a movable core, which, when voltage is applied, produce the same sound.
When the relay is working properly, there is one click and the compressor starts. If the mechanism is worn out or the winding is burned out, you will hear a series of clicks. The engine tries to start, the relay clicks, but the engine does not gain speed and is turned off by the protection. This condition is dangerous due to overheating of the compressor windings.
For diagnostics, you need to remove the back cover of the refrigerator (at the bottom) and inspect the relay. It is mounted on the side or bottom of the motor. Traces of burning, melting of plastic or blackening of contacts are often visually visible. In such cases, it is necessary to replace the part with a similar model.
- 🔌 Single click and starting the engine is normal.
- 🔥 Series of clicks and a hum without starting - breakdown of the relay or compressor.
- 💨 Smell of burning from the back - burnt wiring or relay.
- 🔌 No response when plugged in - a problem with the power circuit.
Replacing the start relay is one of the simplest repair procedures refrigerators Indesit, Beko or Atlant. It does not require any special tools other than a screwdriver. The main thing is to choose the right relay model, since they differ in power and mounting method.
☑️ Diagnostics of the starting relay
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (or thermostat) is the “brain” that gives the command to turning the compressor on and off. Inside it there is a bellows tube and contacts that open and close with a characteristic click. If the refrigerator clicks periodically, but the cold does not stay inside, the contacts may be stuck.
In modern electronically controlled models, temperature sensors perform the role of a thermostat. They do not click on their own, but their malfunction leads to chaotic operation of the compressor. If the control board receives incorrect data, it can send a command to start the motor, which immediately stalls, creating the illusion of a relay malfunction.
You can diagnose a thermostat by temporarily closing its contacts. If the compressor starts and operates normally, then the problem is in the regulator. In electronic models, you will need a multimeter to check the sensor resistance at different temperatures.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Sound character | Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| The refrigerator does not freeze | Sticking thermostat contacts | Absent or rare | Replacing the thermostat |
| Continuous operation of the motor | Freon leak or sensor failure | Humming without clicks | Refilling or replacing the sensor |
| Frequent on/off | Malfunction of the starting relay | Frequent clicks | Replacing the relay |
| Temperature jumps | Electronics failure | Silent | Repair of the control board |
How to check the thermostat with a multimeter?
To check the mechanical thermostat, switch the multimeter to dial mode. At room temperature the contacts should be closed (beeps). If you place the sensitive element in the freezer for 10-15 minutes, the contacts should open. If this does not happen, the thermostat is faulty.
Mechanical malfunctions of the compressor
The most alarming signal is when the compressor clicks loudly. This may mean that the engine piston group is worn out or "water hammer". If liquid freon or oil enters the cylinder at the moment when the piston is at the top point, a sharp impact occurs, accompanied by a metallic clang.
The cause may also be wear of the crankshaft bearings or bushings. In this case, clicks and knocking will be accompanied by vibration and low hum. Such a unit cannot be operated: metal from the rubbing parts will enter the refrigerant circulation system, which will require complex and expensive flushing of the circuit.
Sometimes the knocking noise is produced by the compressor housing itself if the fastening bolts are loose or the rubber shock absorbers are worn out. In this case, it is enough to tighten the fasteners or replace the rubber washers. But if the sound comes from inside the “pot,” repairs are often not economically feasible.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a metallic knocking sound from the compressor, immediately unplug the device. Continuing operation will lead to jamming of the motor and complete replacement of the unit.
Failures in the electronic control module
In refrigerators with a system No Frost and electronic control, the board is responsible for all processes. If the compressor control triac on it has burned out or the connector contacts have oxidized, false pulses may occur. As a result, the relay clicks, but voltage is not supplied to the motor windings or is supplied insufficiently.
Often the problem lies in the oxidation of the contacts on the terminal block where the compressor is connected. Due to high temperature and vibration, contact is lost, sparks, creating a crackling sound. A visual inspection may reveal blackening of the wires or melted insulation.
Electronics diagnostics require special knowledge. If you have checked the relay and thermostat and the refrigerator still clicks and won't start, the problem is most likely in the control board. In some cases, flashing helps, but more often it is necessary to replace the module or restore the tracks.
- 💡 Sparking Inside the case - poor wiring contact.
- 📟 Flashing indicators on the panel - electronics error.
- 🔥 Smell of burning plastic —overheating of the board or relay.
- ❄️ Lack of cold when the fan is running—compressor control failure.
The influence of improper installation and operation
Sometimes the reason for the clicks is trivial - the refrigerator is not installed correctly. If the housing is skewed, the doors may not fit tightly and the compressor may work harder. The vibration is transmitted to the shelves and objects inside, creating extraneous noise that can be mistaken for clicks of the mechanism.
It is also important to check the distance to the wall. If the condenser (black grille at the back) is too close to the wall, heat transfer is impaired. The compressor overheats, the thermal protection relay trips, making a clicking sound, and turns off the motor. After cooling, the cycle repeats.
Check that the internal elements (bottles, jars) do not touch the walls of the chamber. When vibrating, they can knock on the plastic. Make sure the refrigerator is level by adjusting the legs. This will prevent the doors from skewing and reduce the noise level during operation.
⚠️ Attention: Do not install the refrigerator close to the wall. The minimum distance to the back wall should be 5-7 cm for free air circulation.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator click when it is not working?
If the clicking continues after you have unplugged the appliance, this may be residual thermal compression plastic. If the clicks are loud and frequent, perhaps there is a voltage surge in the network, and the protection relay is trying to work, or there is a problem in the wiring of the refrigerator itself.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it clicks?
If the clicks are quiet and infrequent (thermal expansion) - it is possible. If the clicks are loud, accompanied by a hum, lack of cold or a burning smell, operation must be stopped until the cause is determined, so as not to completely burn out the compressor.
How much does it cost to replace the start relay?
The cost of the relay itself usually ranges from 500 to 1500 rubles, depending on the model of the refrigerator. The replacement work will take 15-20 minutes and can cost from 1000 to 2000 rubles. This is one of the most budget-friendly types of repairs.
Does the inverter compressor click?
Inverter compressors operate smoothly and almost silently. They should not have clicks when starting, since there is no sudden starting current. If the inverter refrigerator clicks, this most often indicates a malfunction of the control board or a mechanical defect.