The situation when a refrigerator Atlant stops maintaining the set temperature is one of the most common reasons for contacting service. Owners notice that food in the main chamber begins to thaw, and ice forms in the freezer compartment or, conversely, becomes too warm. This does not always mean a critical breakdown of the unit, but requires immediate attention to avoid damage to the products.
Double-compressor and single-compressor models of the Belarusian manufacturer may behave differently when malfunctions occur. Often the problem lies in a violation of the operating rules, which can be easily corrected on your own without the help of specialists. However, there are also technical reasons that require professional diagnostics and replacement of components.
In this article we will analyze in detail all possible causes of deterioration in cooling, from simple configuration errors to complex malfunctions of the refrigeration circuit. You will learn how to conduct primary diagnostics and understand in which cases you need to call a specialist. Correctly identifying the symptom will save you time and money on repairs.
Violation of operating rules and temperature conditions
The first thing to do if you notice that the refrigerator does not freeze wellis to check the conditions of its operation. Often the reason is trivial: the unit simply cannot cope with the load due to external factors. For example, if the equipment is installed close to a wall or in a niche without gaps, the air circulation around the condenser is disrupted. As a result, heat is not removed effectively, and the compressor operates with overload, not reaching the required temperature values.
It is also worth paying attention to the temperature in the room. If the kitchen is located on the sunny side or next to the stove, the ambient temperature may exceed the permissible standards for your climate class Atlanta. In such conditions, even a working unit will work almost without stopping, but the quality of freezing will drop.
Another important aspect is the tightness of the door. If the rubber seal is dirty, damaged, or simply does not fit tightly due to the door being skewed, warm air constantly enters the chamber. This leads to the formation of frost on the back wall and an increase in the overall temperature inside.
- 🌡️ Check the distance to the walls: it should be at least 5-7 cm for free air circulation.
- 🚪 Inspect the sealing rubber for cracks, adhered fat or crumbs that interfere with a tight fit.
- 🔥 Make sure that there are no heat sources near the refrigerator (radiators, ovens, direct sunlight).
- 🧊 Do not place hot or warm foods in the chamber that sharply increase the internal temperature.
⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator is in a draft or in an unheated room in winter, oil It may thicken in the compressor, which will lead to its breakdown upon startup. Make sure that the conditions correspond to the climate class indicated on the technical label.
Malfunctions of the defrosting system and freezing of ice
In models with a system No Frost or drip defrosting (“crying wall”), excessive freezing of the evaporator is a common cause of deterioration in cooling. The ice coat acts as a heat insulator, preventing cold from entering the chamber. As a result, the compressor hums continuously, trying to compensate for the lack of cold, but the food still spoils.
If you Atlant with a drip system, check the drainage hole in the back of the refrigerator compartment. It often becomes clogged with food debris or mold. The water stops flowing into the tray, freezes and turns into an ice plug that blocks heat exchange. In No Frost systems, the problem may lie in a malfunction of the defrost heating element, sensor or timer.
For diagnostics, you can completely defrost the refrigerator. To do this, unplug the device, open the doors and leave it for at least 10-12 hours (preferably a day). If, after turning on the operation and setting the temperature, the problem disappeared, but after a week or two it recurred, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system is faulty.
☑️ Actions for complete defrosting
It is important to understand the difference between normal operation and a defect. In refrigerators with a drip system, a small amount of ice on the back wall while the compressor is running is normal. It should melt when the motor turns off. If the ice does not melt and grows in layers, turning into a block, this is a signal of a malfunction.
Why can’t you break off ice with a knife?
Mechanical removal of ice with sharp objects is strictly prohibited. The walls of the evaporator are very thin, and if you break through them, you will release the refrigerant. Repair in this case will cost more than a new refrigerator, and sometimes it is impossible.
Problems with the thermostat and electronic control
The thermostat (thermostat) is the “brain” that commands the compressor to turn on or off depending on the temperature in the chamber. If this device fails, it can “lie”, telling the control unit that it is already too cold in the refrigerator, although in fact it is warm there. As a result, the motor either does not turn on at all or operates in too short cycles.
Modern models Atlant with electronic control use a temperature sensor instead of a mechanical thermostat. Its readings may be confused due to power surges or manufacturing defects. Electronics can show normal temperature on the display, while in reality it will be much higher.
Diagnostics of the thermostat in mechanical models is possible at home. You need to remove the regulator, immerse its sensitive tube in cold water with ice and “ring” the contacts with a tester. As the temperature drops, a click should be heard and the resistance should change. If there is no click or the contacts do not close/open, the part must be replaced.
- 🔧 Check the position of the thermostat knob: it may have been accidentally moved to the minimum.
- ⚡ Pay attention to power surges in the network: they often damage electronic control modules.
- 📉 If the compressor does not start at all, but the light in the chamber is on, there is a high probability of a thermostat malfunction.
- 🔊 A characteristic click when turning the motor on and off is a sign of the operation of the mechanical thermostat.
It is worth noting that in two-compressor models malfunction of the thermostat usually affects only one chamber. If only your refrigerator compartment is not freezing, but the freezer is working perfectly (or vice versa), first of all, the sensor or thermostat in this particular zone is at fault.
Refrigerant leak and capillary system blockage
One of the most serious reasons why Atlant stopped freezing is a freon (refrigerant) leak. This can happen due to corrosion of the evaporator tubes (especially if they are aluminum), mechanical damage during transportation, or poor quality factory sealing. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if the seal is broken, it evaporates, and there is simply nothing to withstand the cold.
The second option is a clogged capillary tube. An ice plug may form inside the system (due to moisture in the circuit) or blockage with technical oil and decomposition products. In both cases, the circulation of refrigerant stops or becomes insufficient for effective cooling.
How to distinguish these problems? If there is a freon leak, the compressor can work almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but the refrigerator compartment will be barely warm, and the freezer compartment will not freeze well. The condenser tubes (grill at the back) may be partly warm or partly cold. When clogged, gurgling or hissing is often heard, and the compressor itself can become very hot and turn off via a thermal relay.
⚠️ Attention: It is impossible to eliminate a freon leak or clean the capillary system on your own. Special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station) and craftsman skills are required. An attempt to “replenish” freon without looking for a leak will not yield results.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. If it is faulty, there will be no cold anywhere. However, the motor itself does not always fail. Often the problem lies in the start-up relay. This is a small device that provides an impulse to start the engine. If the relay is “stuck” or burnt out, you will hear a characteristic click, the hum of the motor for a few seconds, and then another click and silence.
The compressor itself may lose performance (wear of the piston group) or jam. In the first case, it will hum, but will not create the necessary pressure in the system. In the second, an attempt to start will trigger the protection and cut off the electricity in the entire apartment or knock out the plugs.
Diagnostics of the compressor requires measuring the current consumption and discharge pressure. At home, you can only visually assess the situation: if the engine is hot, but the cold does not come, and it works continuously, there is a high probability of loss of performance or freon leakage.
Comparative table of symptoms and malfunctions
For ease of diagnosis, we have summarized the main symptoms and probable causes in a table. This will help you quickly navigate the nature of the breakdown of your Atlanta.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Necessity master |
|---|---|---|---|
| The compressor does not turn on, there is no light | No power, the socket is faulty, the wire is burned out | Low | No |
| Buzzes for 5 seconds, clicks and silent | The starting relay is faulty or the compressor is jammed | Average | Desirable |
| Works without stopping, there is not enough cold | Freon leakage, blockage, Compressor wear | High | Yes |
| A “coat” of ice is growing | The defrosting system (heating element, sensor) is faulty | Medium | Yes (preferably) |
| The refrigerator turns off without turning on | The thermostat is faulty | Low | No (you can do it yourself) |
Analyzing the data in the table, you can notice a pattern: the more complex the symptom, the higher the likelihood of needing professional intervention. However, simple things, such as checking the power supply or replacing the thermostat, are often available for independent solutions.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the Atlant refrigerator work constantly and does not turn off?
Continuous operation of the compressor most often indicates that the refrigerator cannot reach the set point temperature. Reasons: freon leak, compressor wear, clogged condenser (dust at the back), door seal failure or thermostat setting too low.
Is it possible to use an Atlant refrigerator if it does not freeze well?
Using a unit with a broken temperature regime for storing perishable foods is dangerous. However, short-term operation is possible for storing vegetables or unopened canned goods. Long-term operation in this mode will lead to overheating and failure of the compressor.
How long should a new refrigerator reach its temperature?
After the first turn on or long-term transportation (more than 4 hours) Atlant it should stand turned off for 3-4 hours to stabilize the oil. After switching on, the time for the temperature to reach the nominal value is from 2 to 6 hours, depending on the model and load.
Why is there water in the refrigerator compartment, and ice in the freezer?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system or a clogged drainage hole. The water does not have time to evaporate or drain and flows out or accumulates at the bottom. It is also possible that food may thaw due to insufficient cooling.
How often do you need to defrost the Atlant refrigerator?
Models with manual defrosting require disconnecting from the network every 3-6 months as ice forms. No Frost and drip (“crying wall”) systems do not require forced defrosting, but preventive washing once a year is recommended.