The situation when in the refrigerator Atlant the temperature in the upper compartment suddenly stops decreasing, while the freezer continues to freeze food properly, is a classic symptom for equipment with two compressors. The owner is faced with melted meat or spoiled vegetables, although the unit itself hums and works. This indicates that one of the cooling circuits has failed, while the second is functioning normally.
Most often, the problem lies not in complex electronics, but in mechanical damage or natural wear and tear of system components. Two-compressor models Atlant are structurally independent: one motor-compressor is responsible for the freezer, and another is responsible for the refrigeration compartment. If the ice in the freezer is solid, it means that its system is sealed and filled with freon, but there is a failure in the upper compartment.
Before calling a technician, it is important to carry out an initial diagnosis to rule out trivial causes. Sometimes it is enough to check whether the door is pressed against food or whether the thermostat is set correctly. However, if the equipment has been in use for several years, the likelihood of a serious breakdown requiring specialist intervention increases significantly.
Design features of two-compressor Atlant refrigerators
Understanding the operating principle will help you quickly find the cause of the malfunction. Unlike single-compressor models, where one motor drives freon throughout the entire volume, in two-compressor schemes each compartment has its own independent cycle. This means that the breakdown of one unit does not directly affect the operation of another, except in cases of problems with the power supply or control board.
The system No Frost or drip defrosting in the refrigerator compartment is also controlled separately. If you have a model with a “crying” wall, then the water should collect in the groove and evaporate. In systems without ice, fans are responsible for air circulation and can become clogged or damaged. It is this autonomy that allows the freezer to operate while the main chamber is warm.
⚠️ Attention: In older models Atlant with one compressor and two circuits, the situation when the freezer is working but the refrigerator is not, often indicates a blockage of the capillary tube or a freon leak in the refrigeration chamber circuit.
It is important to consider the age of the equipment. If your refrigerator is more than 10 years old, the most likely cause is the exhaustion of the compressor's life or loss of elasticity of the seals. New models may suffer from failures in the electronic control unit, which incorrectly distributes commands to start different components.
Main causes of the malfunction: refrigerant leak
The most common reason why Atlant refrigerator stopped cooling is a banal freon leak from the refrigeration chamber circuit. This can happen due to microcracks in the evaporator, corrosion of metal tubes, or mechanical damage due to inaccurate defrosting. The freon evaporates, and the compressor begins to idle, without creating the necessary pressure.
Symptoms of a leak often appear gradually. First, the temperature in the chamber begins to rise, the food spoils more slowly, but still spoils. In this case, the compressor can work almost non-stop, trying to compensate for the lack of cold. In this case, you can notice swelling on the back wall of the unit or, conversely, dents if corrosion has occurred.
It is difficult to diagnose a leak on your own, since freon is colorless and odorless. However, there are indirect signs that will help identify the problem:
- 🔊 The compressor hums continuously or turns on too often without turning off for a long rest.
- ❄️ There is ice in the freezer, but in the refrigerator compartment the temperature is above +10 degrees.
- 🔥 Condenser the radiator (rear grill) remains cold or warm only partially, although the compressor is hot.
- 🧊 There is completely no frost or condensation on the internal walls of the refrigerator, even after a long period of inactivity.
If you suspect a leak, further operation of the equipment may lead to the compressor burning out due to overheating. The oil in the system circulates along with freon, and in its absence, the lubrication of the components is disrupted. Repair in this case involves finding the leak, sealing and filling the system with new refrigerant.
Malfunctions of the compressor and start relay
In two-compressor models Atlant a separate, usually less powerful compressor is responsible for the refrigeration compartment. If it fails, no cold will be produced in the upper chamber. The breakdown can be mechanical (jamming of the piston group) or electrical (combustion of the winding).
Often the culprit is starting relay. This small device is responsible for starting the compressor motor. If the relay is burnt out or stuck, the compressor will either not start at all, or will make a characteristic clicking and humming noise and then turn off. You can check the relay visually (for the presence of carbon deposits) or by ringing, but it is better to replace it with a known good one.
How to check the compressor with a multimeter?
To check, you need to remove the casing, disconnect the relay and measure the resistance between the contacts of the windings. The normal resistance of the working winding is 10-30 Ohms, the starting winding is 20-50 Ohms. If the device shows infinity or zero, the winding is burned out or shorted.
It is also worth paying attention to the thermal protection built into the relay. If the compressor overheats, the protection opens the circuit. This may occur due to contamination of the condenser at the back of the refrigerator. Dust and animal hair create a “fur coat” that interferes with heat transfer, the motor heats up and goes into protection.
Signs of problems with the compressor group:
- 🔌 A click is heard when trying to start, but the motor does not start.
- 🔥 The compressor heats up to very high temperatures (more than 90 degrees) in a short time.
- 🔇 Complete absence of sound from the second compressor, although the light in the chamber is on.
Clogged capillary tube and problems with the filter drier
In the freon circulation system, the capillary tube plays a critical role. It creates the necessary throttling (pressure difference), due to which the refrigerant boils and cools the chamber. If there is moisture or debris in the system, an ice plug or blockage will form in the bottleneck of the tube.
The filter drier located in front of the capillary is designed to retain moisture. Over time, its resource is exhausted, and it itself becomes the cause of system blockage. As a result, freon does not enter the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber in the required volume, and cold is not generated, although the compressor pumps properly.
Symptoms of a blockage are often confused with a leak, but there are differences. When clogged, the compressor may work harder and the condenser will be hot throughout, unlike a leak where it is warm or cold. Sometimes you can hear gurgling or hissing inside the tubes.
To eliminate this malfunction you need:
- 🛠️ Opening the system and purging with nitrogen under high pressure.
- 💧 Replacing the filter-drier with a new one (the old one cannot be reused).
- ⏳ Evacuating the system to remove moisture and air before refueling.
⚠️ Attention: An independent attempt to clean the capillary tube without special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station) is almost guaranteed to lead to final breakdown of the refrigerator.
Failures in the operation of the thermostat and sensors
Refrigerator electronics Atlant relies on the readings of temperature sensors. In mechanical models, this function is performed by a thermostat (thermostat). If its sensitive element (bellows tube) has lost its tightness or has moved, it does not send a signal to turn on the compressor, even if it is warm in the chamber.
In models with electronic control, air sensors are responsible for the temperature. They can “lie” due to oxidation of contacts or moisture ingress. If the sensor shows the controller that it is already -5 degrees in the chamber (although in fact it is +15), the compressor simply will not turn on. The freezer works because it has its own sensor.
Checking the thermostat in mechanical refrigerators is simple: you need to turn the regulator to maximum cold. If the compressor does not start, the contacts may be stuck or the thermostat itself may be faulty. In electronic models, diagnostics require testing the sensors with a multimeter at different temperatures.
Main signs of sensor malfunction:
- 🌡️ The temperature in the chamber does not correspond to the set value on the display or handle.
- 🔄 The compressor turns on too rarely or does not turn on at all, despite the heat.
- 💡 An error may appear on the display (if any) or the temperature indicator may blink.
Diagnostic table: symptoms and probable causes
For convenience, we will systematize the data obtained. Below is a table that helps to compare the observed symptoms with the most likely malfunctions in refrigerators Atlant.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| The compressor is silent, there is no light | No power, the socket or cord is burnt out | Check the voltage in the network, cord | Low |
| Humming, but not cooling, the condenser is cold | Freon leak | Searching for leaks, soldering, refilling | High |
| Clicks and turns off, hot | Faulty starting relay or compressor | Replace relay, check windings | Medium |
| Works without stopping, weak cold | Clogged capillary or compressor wear | Purge the system, replace the filter | High |
| Temperature is not regulated | Thermostat or sensor is faulty | Replacement thermostat/sensor | Average |
This table covers the main scenarios. However, it is worth remembering that in reality combinations of faults may occur, especially in older equipment. For example, due to long-term work with a blockage, the compressor could burn out.
What you can do yourself, and when to call a specialist
Not all breakdowns require calling a specialist. If the problem lies in incorrect operation or simple settings, you can handle it yourself. For example, check whether the door is pressed, defrost the refrigerator completely (for 24 hours) to remove the ice plug in the No Frost system, or clean the condenser from dust.
However, if we are talking about breaking the tightness of the circuit, replacing the compressor or refilling with freon, you cannot do without a specialist and special tools. Attempts to do this yourself often end in damage to the equipment and loss of the warranty (if it was still valid).
☑️ Checklist before calling a technician
Calling a technician is justified if:
- 🛑 After complete defrosting (24 hours), the refrigerator did not start to cool.
- 🛑 You can hear the smell of burning or melted wiring.
- 🛑 The compressor hums, but does not start, or works continuously.
- 🛑 You have discovered oily stains under the refrigerator or on the pipes.
Prevention and care of a two-chamber refrigerator
To extend the life of your Atlanta, it is important to follow the operating rules. Regular defrosting (even for No Frost systems is recommended once a year) helps avoid the formation of ice jams. Do not place hot products in the chamber - this creates an extra load on the compressor and promotes the formation of condensation, which can cause corrosion.
Keep the condenser grill at the back of the unit clean. Dust is the main enemy of heat transfer. Also check the integrity of the rubber seals on the doors. If they do not fit tightly, warm, moist air enters the chamber, which leads to freezing of the evaporator and malfunctions.
⚠️ Attention: The characteristics and design features of the models Atlant may vary depending on the year of manufacture. Always check the technical documentation of your particular model before starting disassembly.
Timely maintenance and careful attention to the “behavior” of the refrigerator will help avoid costly repairs. If you notice that the equipment begins to work louder, longer or worse, this is the first signal to action.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why is there ice in the freezer, but warm in the refrigerator?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction in the refrigeration chamber circuit. In two-compressor models, this means a breakdown of the second compressor, a freon leak in the upper circuit, or a clogged capillary tube. In single-compressor units, there is a violation of air circulation or a leak in the second evaporator.
How much does it cost to repair if Atlant has stopped cooling?
The cost depends on the breakdown. Replacing a thermostat or relay is inexpensive. Refilling with freon and finding leaks will cost the most. The technician can name the exact amount only after an on-site diagnosis, since the price consists of the work and the cost of materials (freon, oil, spare parts).
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it does not cool, but works?
For a short period of time - yes, if you need to store food in the freezer. However, you cannot leave it on for long. The compressor will wear out without stopping, which will lead to its overheating and final failure. It is better to turn off the unit before the technician arrives.
How can you tell that the compressor has burned out?
If you hear a click when you turn it on, the hum lasts a couple of seconds and then click again (thermal protection), and the motor itself is hot - most likely the compressor is jammed or the winding is burned out. Also a sign may be the absence of resistance when testing the contacts with a multimeter.
Does it need to completely defrost the refrigerator before repair?
Yes, if you plan to solder the tubes or replace the evaporator. Ice in the system can turn to water and enter the compressor, causing water hammer. To simply replace a thermostat or relay, complete defrosting may not be necessary, but is desirable for ease of operation.