The situation when the refrigerator Atlant stops cooling the upper chamber, while the lower one continues to operate normally, is classic for two-chamber models with one compressor. The owner is faced with the fact that the food in the freezer hardens, and the shelves in the refrigerator compartment are warm, and the food begins to spoil. This indicates a problem with refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system. Most often, the problem lies not in the breakdown of the compressor itself, but in a clogged capillary tube, freon leakage, or failure of sensors.
It is important to understand that modern models, such as the series Atlant 40, are equipped with a No Frost system or a crying evaporator, and the algorithm for their operation complex. Self-diagnosis requires care, since incorrect actions can lead to more expensive repairs. First of all it is necessary to exclude trivial causes: overload with products, incorrect installation or power surges. If the equipment is installed according to the rules and loaded normally, you will have to look deeper.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of the malfunction. You will learn how to interpret blinking indicators, check the thermostat and understand when you can’t do without calling a professional with a vacuum pump and freon. Remember that ignoring the problem in the early stages can lead to complete failure of the compressor.
The main reasons for the lack of cold in the upper compartment
The most common reason that the refrigerator Atlant does not cool at the top is a refrigerant leak. Freon is the working fluid of the system, which circulates in a closed loop. If a microcrack develops in the tubes (often due to corrosion or mechanical damage during transportation), the pressure drops. The compressor continues to hum, trying to build up pressure, but the gas evaporates, and the cooling capacity drops primarily at the most remote point of the circuit - the upper chamber.
The second serious enemy is clogged capillary tube. Not only gas, but also oil circulates in the system, and oxidation products or moisture can also enter. Over time, a plug forms in the bottleneck of the capillary. The refrigerant can no longer pass and the refrigeration cycle is interrupted. Unlike a leak, when clogged, the compressor often operates with overheating and can be periodically turned off by a thermal relay.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the condenser grille at the back of the refrigerator is only partially cold or warm, and the compressor runs constantly, this is a sure sign of a leak or clog. Further operation in this mode is dangerous for the motor.
It is also worth considering the human factor. If the door of the refrigerator compartment does not close tightly due to adhered ice, deformation of the seal or a large amount of food, warm air constantly enters the compartment. The system does not have time to cool it, and the temperature rises. Atlant may simply not cope with such a thermal load, especially in the summer.
Finally, problems with electronics cannot be discounted. In electronically controlled models, the control module is responsible for distributing the cold or turning on the compressor. A malfunction in its operation, oxidation of contacts or failure of the temperature sensor in the upper chamber may give a false command “temperature has been reached”, and the compressor simply will not turn on to cool the upper compartment.
Diagnostics of the No Frost system and fan
If your Atlant equipped with a No Frost system, then the absence cold at the top is often associated with poor air circulation. In such models, the cold is produced in the freezer compartment (usually the lower one), and then a fan drives it through the air ducts into the upper compartment. If this process is disrupted, it will be warm above, and “Arctic” below.
The first thing you need to check is the work fan. Open the freezer. If this is a model with a hidden fan, listen: after opening the door or some time after closing, you should hear the sound of air or the hum of a motor. If the fan does not spin, the cold does not flow. The reasons may be different: freezing of the blades in ice, failure of the fan motor or broken wiring.
- 🧊 Ice buildup: The fan may jam due to ice if the defrosting system does not work correctly.
- ⚙️ Mechanical failure: Wear of the bearings or winding of the fan motor requires replacement of the unit.
- 🔌 Wiring problems: Oxidation of the contacts on the fan connector is often found in older models.
The second important element of the No Frost system - this Defrost heating element and a timer (or electronic module). If the heating element burns out, the evaporator in the freezer becomes overgrown with a “fur coat” that blocks the air supply channels. As a result, the fan moves air, but it cannot pass through the ice shell. The upper chamber remains warm. You can check the heating element with a multimeter for circuit integrity.
How to check the defrosting heating element with a multimeter?
To check, you need to get to the heating element (usually it is hidden behind the back wall of the freezer). Disconnect the wires, set the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (Ohms). Touch the probes to the contacts of the heating element. If the device shows “1” or “OL” (break), the heating element has burned out. If it shows resistance in the range of 200-500 Ohms, the element is working.
Faults of the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (thermostat) is the “brain” that decides when to turn the compressor on and off. In mechanical models Atlant this is a round “tablet” with a capillary tube that goes into the evaporator. If the thermostat fails and is stuck in the off position, the compressor will not start and the temperature throughout the refrigerator will begin to rise. However, more often it happens that the thermostat does not sense an increase in temperature in the upper chamber and does not give a command to cool.
In electronic models, the role of a thermostat is performed temperature sensors. They are located at different points: in the refrigerator compartment, in the freezer, on the evaporator. If the sensor in the upper compartment “lies” and shows the module that it is -5°C (although in fact +10°C), the refrigerator will not cool. Replacing a sensor is a simple procedure, but requires selecting an element with similar resistance characteristics.
Often owners confuse a thermostat breakdown with incorrect adjustment. If the thermostat knob is set to the “Min” position (1), the compressor may turn on very rarely, and in hot weather the upper chamber will not have time to cool. Try turning the knob to maximum (usually 5-7) and wait a couple of hours. If cold appeared, the problem was in the settings.
⚠️ Attention: The capillary tube of a mechanical thermostat is very thin and fragile. When installing a new thermostat, do not bend it or allow impacts, otherwise the new device will also fail.
Symptoms of a malfunctioning thermostat often appear cyclically: the refrigerator is silent for a long time, then buzzes for a long time. Or vice versa - it works without interruption, but does not turn off, because it “does not feel” the cold. In the latter case, the food in the freezer may freeze, but the top will still be a little warm due to an imbalance.
Problems with the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. If it doesn't work, nothing works. However, in the case when Atlant the top does not freeze, but the bottom works, the compressor is usually alive. But there are exceptions related to his “fatigue.” Over time, the performance of the piston group decreases. The compressor hums, creates pressure, but it is not enough to push freon through the entire system, especially to the upper condensation point.
Often the culprit of problems is start relay. This is a small box on the side of the compressor that is responsible for starting the engine. If the relay is faulty, the compressor may try to start, click and immediately stall, or hum for a few seconds and turn off. In this case, none of the chambers will be cooled. But if the compressor runs smoothly, but there is no cold, the problem is not in the relay.
Let's consider the signs of a compressor malfunction:
- 🔊 Extraordinary noise: Knocking, clanging or loud hum during operation.
- 🔥 Overheating: The compressor housing becomes so hot that it is impossible to touch it.
- ⚡ Knocking out plugs: The compressor causes a short circuit when trying to start.
Replacing a compressor is a complex and expensive repair that requires professional equipment for soldering tubes, evacuating the system and charging freon. It is almost impossible to perform this operation efficiently with your own hands.
Comparison of symptoms: Diagnostic table
To make it easier for you to determine the reason why Atlant it stopped freezing at the top, we have systematized the main symptoms and their probable causes. Use this table as a primary checklist before calling a specialist.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Actions |
|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm, the compressor works constantly | Freon leak or capillary blockage | Call a technician to find the leak and refill |
| The fan in the freezer does not make noise, there is ice on the walls | Malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, timer) | Defrost for a day, check the heating element with a multimeter |
| The refrigerator is silent, there is no light, the compressor is cold | No power, the thermostat or wiring is burnt out | Check the socket, replace thermostat |
| The compressor hums for 5-10 seconds and clicks without starting | The starting relay is faulty or the compressor is stuck | Replace the starting relay |
| It is warm in the upper chamber, but sometimes blows in cold | The door does not close tightly or the channel is clogged | Check the seal, defrost |
Analysis of the table shows that the external manifestations are often similar, but the reasons are radically different. For example, constant operation of the compressor may be a sign of both a lack of freon and poor sealing of the chamber. Therefore, comprehensive diagnostics is important.
If you see that the symptoms coincide with the first two lines of the table (leak or defrost system), it is better not to carry out independent repairs without skills and tools. You can only aggravate the situation, for example, by damaging the evaporator when trying to remove the ice.
Instructions: What you can do with your own hands
Before calling the service, try to perform a number of simple steps. They will help eliminate simple errors and, possibly, resuscitate Atlant at no cost. This is especially true if the problem arose suddenly.
The first and most important thing is complete defrosting. Even if you have No Frost, unplug the refrigerator, open all the doors and leave it for at least 24 hours (preferably a day). This is necessary so that the ice in the hidden channels and on the evaporator completely melts. Often after this procedure, the refrigerator begins to work like new.
While the refrigerator is defrosting, check the rubber seals on the doors. They should fit snugly around the entire perimeter of the body. If the rubber becomes stiff, cracked or twisted, the cold will go away. Wipe the seal with a soft cloth and soapy water. If there are small gaps, try heating the rubber with a hairdryer (carefully!) and straighten it.
Also check the settings. Make sure the Super Freeze setting (if equipped) is not constantly on, as it may block the thermostat from working properly. Make sure that the food in the upper chamber does not block the air ducts (in models with air circulation) and does not lie close to the back wall (in “crying” refrigerators).
⚠️ Attention: Never use sharp objects (knives, screwdrivers) to chip ice! You could puncture the evaporator, making repairs no longer economically feasible. Use only a hairdryer or warm water.
If after defrosting and checking the settings the problem returns after a couple of days, it means there is a technical fault. In this case, professional diagnostics are required using a pressure manifold to check the pressure in the system.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why does the Atlant refrigerator only freeze near the back wall, but is it warm in the center?
This may be a sign that the evaporator is partially covered with ice (“fur coat”), which interferes with heat exchange, or the air circulation in the chamber is disrupted by the products. It is also possible that the thermostat is not reading the temperature correctly and is turning off the compressor early. Try to completely defrost the unit.
Is it possible to replace the Atlant thermostat with an analogue from another manufacturer?
Yes, you can often use analogues (for example, Tam or K-59), if the parameters match: the length of the capillary tube, the temperature range of operation and the mounting method. However, it is better to look for original spare parts or complete analogues so as not to disrupt the operating algorithm.
How long should the compressor work normally?
In normal mode, the compressor operates cyclically: it works for about 10-20 minutes, rests for 20-40 minutes. The working time ratio is about 30-50%. If it works almost without stopping, this is a sign of overload, leakage or poor sealing.
What should you do if, after defrosting, the refrigerator started working, but after a week it stopped freezing the top again?
This is a classic symptom of an “air lock” in the system or an incipient blockage. When defrosting, the ice melts, the plug disappears, and the system works. But over time, the moisture freezes again in the bottleneck of the capillary, cutting off the freon flow. Professional cleaning of the system and replacement of the filter-drier are required.
Why does the temperature indicator on the Atlant control panel flash?
A flashing indicator (usually red) indicates that the temperature in the chamber has risen above the permissible norm. If, after loading food or defrosting, it does not stop flashing after several hours of operation, it means that the refrigerator cannot gain cold due to a malfunction.