The situation when it is warm in the refrigerator compartment, food begins to spoil, and the freezer compartment continues to operate as normal, is a classic malfunction for two-chamber models Atlant. The owner is faced with bewilderment: the compressor is humming, the light is on, but there is no desired cold in the upper compartment. This indicates that the cooling system is only partially functioning, and the refrigerant does not enter the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber in the required volume.
This problem is typical for equipment with one compressor and a system No Frost or drip defrosting, where the circulation of air or freon is impaired. Ignoring the symptoms can lead to compressor failure or a complete refrigerant leak, which will require expensive professional intervention. In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of the process, possible causes of failure and methods for eliminating them.
The principle of operation of Atlant two-chamber refrigerators
To understand the nature of the failure, it is necessary to briefly consider the design of the unit. Most models Atlant use one compressor, which pumps freon first into the freezer circuit, where the main cooling occurs, and then the refrigerant enters the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment. If the main compartment is warm, it means that the chain is interrupted after the freezer or the heat exchange is disrupted.
In systems with No Frost cold is generated in the freezer and is forced by a fan into the upper chamber through special channels. If the fan stops or the air ducts are clogged with ice, circulation stops and the temperature in the refrigerator compartment rises. In drip systems (Direct Cool), freon passes through the pipes of the rear wall, and the problem most often lies in a leak or (clogged) capillary tube.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to open the piping system yourself or solder copper pipes without special equipment and skills. This is life-threatening and can permanently damage the equipment.
It is important to consider that modern models are equipped with complex electronics that control the compressor and defrost operating cycles. A malfunction of thermostat or the defrost sensor can block the supply of cold to one of the chambers, maintaining the operation of the other in the same mode.
The most common causes of malfunction
Statistics of service centers show that there are several main reasons, why does the refrigerator Atlant stop freezing in the main compartment. The most common culprit is a freon leak. Refrigerant can escape through microcracks in sealed seams or due to corrosion of the evaporator. In this case, the freon pressure is only enough for the first circuit (freezer), and it simply does not reach the second.
The second common option is failure of the defrost system. If the heating element, timer or defrost sensor is faulty, a “coat” of ice builds up on the evaporator. Over time, the ice completely blocks the air supply channels or heat exchange, and the cold stops flowing into the refrigerator compartment. At the same time, the compressor works without interruption, trying to compensate for the lack of cold.
- 🧊 Freon leak —the most common reason that requires finding the leak and recharging the system.
- ❄️ Malfunction of the defrost system —an ice plug blocks air circulation or heat exchange.
- ⚙️ Clogged capillary tube —a technical plug prevents the passage of refrigerant into the second circuit.
- 💨 Fan failure (for No Frost)—cold is not pumped into the upper chamber.
More rarely, but there are problems with the compressor when its compression is disrupted. The engine hums, but does not create enough pressure to pump freon through both circuits. It is also worth mentioning the sticking of the damper that regulates the flow of cold air in dual-circuit systems, although in budget Atlantakh such mechanics are rare.
Diagnostics: how to determine the type of breakdown
Before calling masters, you can conduct an initial diagnosis that will help you understand the scale of the disaster. Carefully inspect the back wall of the refrigerator compartment. If it is dry and warm and the freezer is working, this is a sure sign that the freon has either escaped or is not reaching that area. If patches of ice or, conversely, swelling are visible on the back wall, this indicates specific problems with the defrost system or a leak.
Pay attention to the operation of the compressor. If it turns on, works for a while and turns off, or, conversely, hums continuously without turning off, these are different scenarios. With continuous operation and no cold, a leak or blockage is most often to blame. If the compressor starts for a few seconds and clicks when it turns off, the problem may be in the start relay or the motor itself.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell a specific chemical odor or hear a hissing sound, ventilate the room immediately. Freon, although not toxic in small doses, can be dangerous in concentration, and the smell often indicates burnt insulation or oil.
For models with No Frost an important diagnostic sign is the presence of frost on the back wall of the freezer. If the evaporator is covered with ice and the fan is humming or standing still, it means the defrosting system has not worked. In this case, completely defrosting the refrigerator within 24 hours can temporarily solve the problem, confirming the diagnosis.
Freon leak: symptoms and solution
Refrigerant leak is the most insidious problem. Freon circulates in a closed circuit under pressure, and if a hole has formed somewhere, the gas gradually comes out. Since the freezer is closer to the compressor outlet, it receives the cold first. The refrigerator compartment, located at the end of the cycle, remains warm. In 80% of cases, leaks in Atlant refrigerators occur in the foamed part of the body (internal circuit), which makes repairs difficult and expensive.
It is difficult to diagnose a leak visually, since the damage site is often hidden by polyurethane foam. An indirect sign may be the appearance of rusty spots on the outer wall of the case or swelling of the side walls. Also, there may be no heating areas on the condenser tubes (grid at the back), which indicates an insufficient amount of gas in the system.
Solving the problem requires calling a technician with equipment to search for leaks (leak detector), evacuation of the system and refilling. If a leak occurs in the foam part, an external evaporator (weeping grille) is often installed inside the chamber or on the back wall, since opening the housing is not economically feasible.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the refrigerator compartment is warm | Freon leak or blockage | Call a technician to diagnose the pressure |
| The compressor works without stopping | Lack of freon or violation tightness | Checking the system for leaks |
| Bloating of the rear wall inside the chamber | Corrosion of the internal evaporator | Installation of an external evaporator |
| Frost only in entrance to the evaporator | Clogged capillary tube | Purge or replace the capillary tube |
Problems with the defrost system (No Frost)
In refrigerators Atlant s system No Frost the condition of the defrost heater, defrost sensor and fuse is critical. If one of these elements fails, the ice that forms on the evaporator while the compressor is running is not melted during the idle cycle. Over time, the ice mass grows, blocking the fan and blocking the air supply channels.
The user notices that the refrigerator is humming more than usual (due to the load on the fan or compressor), and the temperature in the refrigerator compartment rises to +10...+15°C. At the same time, it may be cold in the freezer, but the products freeze to each other due to excess humidity or, on the contrary, dry out.
☑️ Checking the No Frost system
For diagnostics it is necessary to “ring” the circuit elements with a multimeter. A working heating element should show a resistance in the range of 200–300 Ohms. If the resistance is infinite, the heater is burned out. The defrost sensor should “ring” at low temperatures and open the circuit when heated. Replacing these parts is usually not difficult and is done after defrosting the unit.
How to properly defrost a refrigerator for testing?
Unplug the refrigerator. Open all doors. Put away the products. Leave the unit for at least 24 hours (preferably a day) in a warm room. Do not use a hairdryer or hot water to speed up the process - this may damage the plastic and tubing. After defrosting, wipe the camera dry and turn it on. If after 5-7 hours the cold appears, there is a problem in the defrost system.
Clogged capillary tube
The capillary tube is a thin copper pipeline where freon throttling occurs (a sharp drop in pressure and temperature). The inner diameter of the tube is very small, so it is sensitive to contamination. A blockage can occur due to moisture that entered the system during poor-quality repairs, or oxidation products of oil and metal.
Symptoms of a blockage are similar to a leak: the refrigerator compartment does not freeze, the freezer works weakly or normally, the compressor works for a long time. The difference is the temperature of the condenser (grid at the back). If clogged, the condenser will be warm only in the first part (up to 1/3 of the length), the rest will remain cold. When there is a leak, usually a smaller part is heated or the temperature is distributed unevenly in spots.
Removing the blockage requires professional intervention. The technician cuts off the capillary tube and flushes the system with nitrogen under high pressure. If cleaning does not help, the tube is replaced with a new one. The procedure requires evacuation of the system and refilling with new freon.
Malfunction of the thermostat and electronics
The thermostat (thermostat) is a device that commands the compressor to turn on or off depending on the temperature in the chamber. If the thermostat is stuck in the off position or is not reading the temperature correctly, the compressor may not start or may not operate correctly. However, more often, if the thermostat breaks down, the refrigerator either does not turn on at all or works without stopping.
In modern models Atlant with electronic control, control moduleis responsible for all processes. A malfunction in its operation, oxidation of contacts or failure of temperature sensors can lead to the operation algorithm being disrupted. For example, the module “thinks” that it is already cold in the refrigerator compartment and does not give a command to cool, although in fact it is warm there.
- 🔌 Oxidation contacts —check the sensor connectors, the problem is often solved by cleaning.
- 📟 Error on the display —modern models show an error code, which is deciphered in the instructions.
- 🔄 Software failure —sometimes completely disconnecting from the network for 15-20 minutes to reboot the controller helps.
If you suspect electronics, try resetting or rebooting. If this does not help, a specialist needs to diagnose the control board. Self-repair of electronics without a circuit and equipment is almost impossible.
When you need to call a technician
Many users wonder: is it possible to repair the refrigerator yourself? The answer depends on the type of fault. You can replace the light bulb, clean the drainage hole, or defrost the unit yourself. However, if we are talking about “heavy artillery” - a freon leak, replacing a compressor, repairing a foamed evaporator or soldering pipes - you cannot do without a specialist.
An attempt to refill freon yourself without evacuation of the system will result in moisture and air remaining in the circuit. This will cause the formation of ice plugs, corrosion and rapid failure of the new compressor. In addition, working with refrigerants requires a license and special equipment.
⚠️ Attention: The warranty on the refrigerator Atlant is void if you attempt to repair it yourself due to broken seals and opening of the refrigeration circuit. If the equipment is under warranty, immediately call the official service.
You should think about calling a specialist if after 24 hours of defrosting the problem does not disappear, or if you observe obvious signs of a leak (rust, swelling, lack of cold when the engine is running). Professional repairs will extend the life of your equipment for years.
Fault prevention
To avoid situations where the refrigerator stops freezing, it is important to follow the operating rules. Defrost your equipment regularly (even the No Frost system is recommended to be defrosted once a year for hygiene and inspection). Do not place hot food in the chamber - this creates extra load on the compressor and contributes to the formation of ice.
Keep the condenser grill at the back of the refrigerator clean. Dust and animal hair impair heat transfer, causing the compressor to wear out. Also check the rubber seals on the doors: if they do not fit tightly, warm, moist air enters the chamber, which leads to freezing.
Why is it warm in the refrigerator compartment, but the freezer is working?
This happens because the refrigerant first passes through the evaporator of the freezer, cooling it, and only then it enters the refrigeration circuit. If there is not enough freon (leakage) or the path is blocked (clogging, ice), the cold simply does not reach the second compartment.
How much does it cost to repair if Atlas stops freezing?
The cost depends on the breakdown. Replacing the sensor or thermostat will cost the least. Freon refilling and leak detection are more expensive. Replacing a compressor is the most expensive procedure. The technician will tell you the exact price after diagnostics.
Is it possible to use the refrigerator if it does not freeze in the main chamber?
For a short time - yes, but not recommended. The compressor operates in emergency mode (non-stop or with short cycles), which can lead to overheating and combustion. In addition, the food in the upper chamber will quickly deteriorate.
How to understand that the compressor has burned out?
If the compressor hums, then there is a click and it goes silent, or if it is silent, although the light is on and there is power, the motor winding or start relay may have burned out. A burning smell may also be a sign.