The situation when in the refrigerator Indesit the lower chamber works properly, and in the upper one the temperature rises to room temperature, is one of the most common complaints of the owners of this equipment. This usually happens in models with a No Frost or “Crying Evaporator” system, where one common circuit is responsible for cooling both compartments. A disruption in the circulation of cold air or a malfunction of the control electronics instantly affects the safety of products in the upper compartment.
First of all, you need to understand the physical essence of the problem: cold air is either simply not produced by the compressor in sufficient volume, or it cannot physically get into the upper part of the unit. Often, users begin to panic ahead of time, without checking the basic settings of the thermostat or the position of the products blocking the air ducts. However, if you hear the hum of a running engine, but there is no cold, or the compressor does not start at all, we are talking about a more serious technical malfunction that requires diagnosis.
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will help you independently identify the cause or understand that you cannot do without calling a technician. Ignoring the problem for several days can lead to complete spoilage of food and defrosting of the entire volume of equipment.
Violation of the rules of operation and defrosting
The most commonplace, but common reason for the lack of cold in the upper chamber of refrigerators Indesit is incorrect manual defrosting or its absence in models requiring periodic thawing. If you defrosted the unit less than a day ago and turned it on, but the cold still did not appear, the refrigerant may not have stabilized in the system yet. In systems No Frost a common mistake is trying to speed up the thawing of ice with a hairdryer or boiling water, which leads to deformation of plastic air ducts.
It is also worth checking whether the outlet openings for cold air inside the chamber are not blocked. In pursuit of maximum shelf filling, users often push pots and bags close to the back wall, blocking circulation. The air must move freely along the circuit for the temperature sensors to read the correct data. If the flow is blocked, thermostat “thinks” that it is still warm in the chamber, and causes the compressor to work without interruption, but the cold simply does not reach the food.
⚠️ Attention: Never use sharp objects (knives, screwdrivers) to chip ice in the freezer compartment or on the back wall of the refrigerator. One awkward movement can pierce the thin evaporator tube, which will lead to an instant release of freon and complex, expensive repairs.
Another important aspect is the tightness of the door. If the rubber seal is dirty or damaged, warm air from the kitchen constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to compensate for heat loss, working for wear, but in the upper part it will still be warmer than normal. Wipe the seal with a soft cloth and soapy water and check for cracks or creases.
Malfunctions of the defrost system
In refrigerators Indesit with the No Frost system, one of the main reasons for the disappearance of cold in the upper compartment is a failure in the automatic defrosting system. The ice that builds up on the evaporator, which is hidden behind a plastic panel, turns into a dense block over time. This block blocks the fan, and cold air stops being pumped into the upper chamber. Visually you may not see ice, but there may be a real “snow storm” inside the unit.
Three key elements are responsible for the defrosting process: Defrost heating element, a defrost sensor and a fuse. If the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt. If the sensor fails, the control module “does not know” when to turn on the heating. If a fuse blows, the circuit is completely broken. As a result, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a “fur coat”, the fan hums, but does not spin due to ice, or spins idle, without passing air.
Diagnosis of this problem often requires partial disassembly of the rear panel inside the freezer compartment (or the top, depending on the model). It is necessary to visually assess the amount of ice. If you see a massive layer of frost on the fan blades or in the air ducts, the diagnosis is obvious - the defrost system is not working. In this case, it is necessary to test each circuit element with a multi-meter for resistance.
☑️ Symptoms of a defrost system failure
Often owners try to solve the problem with hot water by pouring it inside, but this is a risky method. Water may get onto electrical contacts or into the insulation layer, causing corrosion or a short circuit. It is safer to completely defrost the refrigerator with it turned off for 24 hours. If after this procedure the cold appears and lasts for 5-7 days, and then the problem returns, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system requires replacement.
Problems with the fan and air circulation
The fan is the “lungs” of your refrigerator Indesit. It is he who forcibly drives cold air from the evaporator into the upper chamber. If this unit fails, the cold remains below (where the evaporator is located), and warmth reigns on the upper shelves. There may be several reasons for the breakdown: wear of the bearings, a break in the motor winding, or a mechanical obstacle in the form of ice.
Pay attention to the sound of the refrigerator running. If you hear a characteristic hum that suddenly stops or changes to a crackling sound, the fan shaft may be jammed. In some models Indesit there is a factory defect in the fan mounting, due to which it moves over time and begins to touch the plastic or ice crust with its blades. This creates noise and stops the air flow.
Checking the fan is usually done by removing the back panel. Make sure that the blades rotate freely by hand (with the refrigerator turned off). If resistance or play is felt, the part must be replaced. It is also worth checking the electrical circuit: is there voltage supplied to the fan motor at the moment when it should be cold.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Check method |
|---|---|---|
| The fan does not make noise at all | Open circuit or burnt winding | Continuity test with a multimeter |
| Strong hum and vibration | Wear of bearings or ice on the blades | Visual inspection and rotation check |
| The fan is jerking | A foreign object has entered | Disassembling and cleaning the chamber |
Is it possible to temporarily do without a fan?
Theoretically, the refrigerator will freeze without forced circulation due to natural convection, but efficiency will drop by 60-70%. The upper chamber will cool very slowly, the compressor will work constantly, which will lead to overheating and high energy consumption. This is not a solution to the problem, but a path to compressor failure.
Refrigerant leaks and compressor problems
If you hear the compressor start, run for a few minutes and then turn off, or it hums but does not start (you can hear a clicking sound), the problem may lie in a shortage. freon. Unlike previous cases, if there is a leak, there will be no cold anywhere, or the freezer will still remain at minus, and in the upper compartment the temperature will be equal to room temperature. This happens because there is only enough remaining gas for the first cooling circuit.
Leakage can occur as a result of corrosion of tubes (especially in the foamed part of the body), mechanical damage during transportation or due to factory soldering defects. Often a sign of a leak is swelling of the side walls of the refrigerator or the appearance of oily spots near the compressor. Freon itself is odorless, but the oil that circulates with it leaves traces.
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. If it is burned out, you will either not hear any operating sounds (silence), or you will hear the buzzing and clicking of the protection relay. Modern models Indesit often use inverter compressors, which are more sensitive to voltage surges. A surge in the network could damage the control board or the motor-compressor itself.
⚠️ Attention: Independent refilling of the refrigerator with freon is impossible without special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station, scales). An attempt to “just add gas” without evacuation of the system and searching for leaks will lead to immediate repeated failure of the equipment and the entry of moisture into the system, which will cause blockage of the capillary.
Failures in the operation of electronics and sensors
Modern refrigerators Indesit are controlled by an electronic module that receives signals from various sensors. If temperature sensor in the upper chamber it transmits incorrect data (for example, it shows that it is -5°C, although in fact it is +15°C), the control module simply will not give the command to cool. The electronics “think” that there is cold and saves the compressor’s resource.
The evaporator defrost sensor also often fails. It may get stuck in the defrost in progress position and the compressor will not start until the timer has expired (which could be hours). Or it may indicate that defrost is complete, although the ice has not yet melted. Diagnosis of such faults is only possible using a multimeter, measuring the resistance of the sensor at different temperatures and comparing the readings with the table.
In some cases, the problem lies in the control module itself: the contacts have oxidized, the compressor or fan control triac has burned out. Visually, traces of burning or swelling of the capacitors may be visible on the board. Repairing the board requires the qualifications of a radio engineer; most often it is changed entirely or reflashed/resoldered in a service center.
Self-diagnosis algorithm
Before calling a technician, try to go through the diagnostic path yourself. This will help you more accurately describe the problem to a specialist or, perhaps, solve it yourself. Start with the simplest thing: listen to whether the compressor and fan are working. Check if the light in the camera is on (this will eliminate problems with the power supply to the outlet). Inspect the seals and make sure that the door closes tightly.
Then defrost the refrigerator completely. This is a universal test. Unplug the equipment, open the doors and leave for at least 24 hours. It's better to take out all the drawers and shelves. If after turning on the refrigerator began to freeze normally, but after 3-7 days the problem recurred, look for a malfunction in the defrosting system (heating element, sensor, fan). If the cold does not appear even after a day of defrosting, the problem is more serious (leakage, compressor, electronics).
Do not forget about safety. Carry out any work inside the housing related to disassembling panels and checking electrical circuits only with the device completely disconnected from the network. Residual voltage can be dangerous, and wet hands and electricity are a deadly combination.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why is it cold in the Indesit freezer, but warm in the refrigerator compartment?
This is a classic sign of poor air circulation. Most likely, the channel between the chambers is clogged with ice (defrost failure) or the fan, which should drive the cold upward, is not working. A partial leak of freon is also possible when the pressure is only sufficient for the first circuit (freezer).
How long should the Indesit refrigerator cool down after the first turn on?
Usually, reaching the operating temperature takes from 2 to 12 hours, depending on the volume of the chamber and the ambient temperature in the room. If after 12 hours the temperature in the upper chamber is above +10°C, and the compressor works constantly, this is a sign of a malfunction.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it does not freeze the top, but freezes the bottom?
For a short time (a couple of hours) - it is possible to save food from the freezer. But you can’t use it in this mode for a long time. The compressor will run non-stop trying to cool the upper chamber, causing it to overheat and burn out. In addition, bacteria will quickly multiply in the warm upper chamber.
Where is the temperature sensor in the Indesit refrigerator?
The location differs in different models. Often the air damper sensor or evaporator sensor is located behind the back plastic panel in the freezer or at the top of the refrigerator compartment. Access to it almost always requires partial disassembly of the case.