The situation when Indesit refrigerator stops turning off and buzzes without interruption causes panic in any owner. This not only leads to a sharp increase in electricity bills, but also signals a critical overload of the main components of the unit. If the compressor works non-stop, it wears out quickly, and the cooling system may fail completely. It is important to understand that constant operation motor is always a symptom, not an independent disease, and you need to look for the root of the problem in the chain “sensor - refrigerant - tightness”.
In most cases, the reason lies in a violation heat exchange or control electronics failure. Modern models, such as Indesit EF 18 or older series BIAmay behave differently, but the physics of the processes remains the same. The unit tries to reach the set temperature, but due to a freon leak or a loose door fit, the goal remains unattainable. As a result, thermostat or the electronic module commands the compressor to work continuously, trying to compensate for the loss of cold.
Ignoring this condition is dangerous because the motor-compressor, designed for cyclic operation, may burn out. Replacing this unit is an expensive repair, often comparable to purchasing new equipment. Therefore, having noticed that refrigerator it buzzes for hours without pauses, it is necessary to immediately carry out an initial diagnosis. Below we will analyze in detail the main causes, methods for identifying them and methods for troubleshooting.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell burning or see sparking in the compressor area, immediately unplug the appliance. Further operation in this condition may lead to a fire.
Incorrect temperature and thermostat settings
The most common, but common reason is the human factor. The user may have accidentally set the temperature control to the “Maximum” or “Super Freeze” position. In this mode thermostat it does not physically open the compressor power supply circuit, causing it to freeze until it stops. On models with electronic control, a software failure could occur, and the system is “stuck” in intensive cooling mode.
Check the position of the mechanical thermostat knob. Typically the scale goes from 1 to 5 or from Min to Max. If the knob is set to maximum and the room is hot, the refrigerator will run non-stop, trying to reach unrealistically low temperatures. For models Indesit with a display, it is worth checking whether the quick freezing function is activated. It is also worth considering that thermostat over time it may “stick” in the closed position due to wear of the contacts.
If you are convinced that the settings are correct, but the situation does not change, perhaps the temperature sensor itself has failed. It could become depressurized or lose calibration. In this case, it sends a false signal to the controller that the chamber is warm, although in fact there is already sub-zero temperature.
Mechanical thermostats are characterized by a loss of sensitivity of the bellows. Inside the sensor tube there is a gas-liquid mixture that reacts to changes in temperature. If a microleakage of this substance occurs, the membrane stops compressing and opening the contacts. It is difficult to determine this visually; it requires replacement of the unit the whole. This is an inexpensive procedure that can often be performed independently if you have basic skills.
Violation of the tightness of the chambers and wear of the seal
One of the main reasons for continuous operation is the constant flow of warm air from the outside. If sealing rubber band the door has lost elasticity, deformed or simply become dirty, the tightness is broken. The refrigerator Indesit begins to freeze intensely, trying to compensate for the heat penetrating through the cracks. The compressor turns on and simply does not turn off, since the set temperature inside is never reached.
You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Press the door around the perimeter of the leaf and try to pull it out. If the paper comes out easily, without resistance, then there is no seal in this place. Pay special attention to corners and folds. Often the rubber cracks or comes away from the body right there. Also, the reason may be that the door is skewed due to an overweight of food or loose hinges.
- 🧼 Wash the seal thoroughly with warm water and soap - sometimes grease and carbon deposits interfere with a tight fit.
- 🔥 Try warming the deformed areas with a hairdryer and straightening them, then press the door a few times hours.
- 🔩 Check the adjustment of the hinges - perhaps the door is simply sagging and is not pressed by the upper or lower corner.
If the seal is physically worn out (torn, has become hard as a stone), it must be replaced. You need to buy an original spare part or a high-quality analogue specifically for your model Indesit. Universal elastic bands often cause repeated problems. Remember that even a small gap of 1-2 millimeters forces compressor to work in double mode, which reduces its service life significantly.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use an open fire or a hair dryer at maximum power to heat the seal - the rubber may melt or lose its properties completely.
Refrigerant leakage and problems with the circulation system
The most serious technical reason why Indesit refrigerator does not turn off - this is a freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, taking heat from the chambers and releasing it into the environment. If a crack or microscopic hole appears in the system, the gas gradually escapes. The pressure drops, and the compressor begins to idle the remaining gas, unable to create the required pressure and temperature.
It is difficult to determine a leak visually, but there are indirect signs. First of all, pay attention to the temperature in the chambers: food may not freeze well or, conversely, spoil. Secondly, check the condenser (grid on the back or sides). During normal operation it should be warm evenly. If it is cold or warm only at the compressor inlet/outlet, this is a sure sign lack of freon.
Often leaks occur in places where tubes are soldered or in the evaporator, which can be damaged by corrosion or mechanically (for example, due to careless defrosting with a knife). In models with the system No Frost leakage may be hidden in the foamed part of the housing. Finding a leak on your own without a leak detector is almost impossible. You need to call a specialist with equipment for pressure testing with nitrogen and evacuation of the system.
Is it possible to fill the refrigerator with freon yourself?
Self-refueling is highly not recommended. It requires precise knowledge of the type of refrigerant (R600a or R134a), its quantity and special evacuation equipment. An attempt to refill “by eye” will lead to either ineffective operation or an explosive situation, since isobutane (R600a) is flammable.
Faults in the compressor and start relay
The heart of the refrigerator is compressor. If it runs non-stop but does not get cold (or only slightly cold), there may be a loss of compression. The piston group is worn out, the valves are burnt out or stuck. In this case, the motor hums, vibrates, consumes electricity, but does not create the necessary pressure in the system. This condition is often called “idle operation.”
Another part that affects the starting and operation of the motor is the starting relay. This little black box on the side of the compressor is responsible for starting the engine. If the contacts inside the relay are burnt or stuck, it may not open the starting winding circuit or, conversely, constantly send a signal to start. As a result, the compressor either hums and clicks, or runs continuously, overheating.
You can check the relay by carefully removing it and shaking it. If a ringing sound is heard inside (as from broken glass), it means that the posistor or mechanical part is destroyed. Replacing the relay is a matter of five minutes and is inexpensive. However, if it itself compressor heats to the point where it is impossible to touch it, and the temperature in the chamber does not drop, most likely the motor itself will need to be replaced.
| Symptom | Probable reason | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| Compressor is hot, no cold | Freon leak or loss of compression | Call a technician to find a leak and refill |
| Audible clicks, the motor does not start | The starting relay is faulty | Replace the relay (you can do it yourself) |
| The motor hums, but does not start | The compressor is stuck or low voltage | Checking the network, trying to start through the starter |
| The refrigerator is freezing too much | The thermostat is faulty | Replacing the thermostat |
Failure of the No Frost system and sensors defrosting
In refrigerators Indesit with a system No Frost a number of sensors monitor the cooling process. If one of them fails, the operation algorithm is disrupted. For example, a defrost sensor may “think” that the evaporator is covered with ice and not give a command to turn on the heating element. As a result, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a “fur coat” that blocks the air flow. The compressor works, trying to blow air through the ice shell, but there is no effect.
It is also possible that the air damper, which regulates the flow of cold from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment, may malfunction. If the damper is stuck in the closed position, the main chamber will be warm and the motor will run without stopping. If it is open, the food in the refrigerator compartment may freeze, and the thermostat will require even more cold.
Often the problem is solved by complete defrosting. If after 24 hours of defrosting with the doors open and then turning it on, the problem disappeared for a couple of days and then returned, it means that one of the sensors (defrost, evaporator temperature) or defrost heating element is faulty. The electronic control module receives incorrect data and switches the compressor to emergency mode of continuous operation.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
The influence of external factors and operating conditions
Sometimes the reason lies not in a breakdown, but in operating conditions. If Indesit refrigerator stands next to the battery, in direct sunlight or in a niche where air circulation is impaired, it will overheat. The condenser does not have time to cool, the heat transfer efficiency drops, and the compressor is forced to work longer to compensate for the inefficiency. The temperature in the room also affects: if the room is +30°C, the refrigerator will work almost constantly.
Another factor is the food load. If you put a large amount of warm food into the chamber (for example, after cooking), the refrigerator will work in intensive mode for several hours until it cools down the volume. This is fine. But if you load warm products regularly, the unit simply will not have time to enter the rest cycle.
It is important to ensure a gap between the back of the refrigerator and the wall of at least 5-7 cm. Dust on the condenser (grid at the back) also acts as a heat insulator. Regular cleaning of the back with a vacuum cleaner will help improve heat transfer and reduce the load on the compressor. Attention: Do not install the refrigerator in close proximity to the stove or oven. Thermal radiation from a working stove causes the refrigerator to work in constant overload mode. compressor.
⚠️ Attention: Do not install the refrigerator in close proximity to the stove or oven. Thermal radiation from a working stove causes the refrigerator to operate in constant overload mode.
Frequent questions and answers (FAQ)
Why does the new Indesit refrigerator work without stopping on the first day?
This is normal. After the first loading and transportation, the unit requires time (up to 24 hours) to gain temperature and stabilize the system. If after a day the mode has not changed, contact the service.
Can the refrigerator not turn off due to power surges?
Yes, unstable voltage in the network can lead to a malfunction of the electronic control module or “sticking” of the relay contacts. In such cases, it is recommended to use a voltage stabilizer.
What to do if the compressor is very hot to the touch?
High temperature of the compressor (up to 90°C) is acceptable, but if it is hot to the point where you cannot hold your hand, and there is a burning smell, immediately turn off the device. This is a sign of an interturn short circuit or critical wear.
How often do you need to change the thermostat in an Indesit refrigerator?
The service life of the thermostat is not strictly regulated, but on average it is 5-7 years. With active use and frequent voltage drops, it may fail earlier.