The situation when you approach the kitchen and hear a single or a series of clicks coming from the refrigerator is familiar to many owners of household appliances. technology. This sound can be barely noticeable or frighteningly loud, interrupting the silence of the apartment. Often this very moment becomes an alarm signal, making you think about the serviceability compressor and safety of the products.
The clicking sound itself is not always a harbinger of failure. In some cases, this is a regular operation thermostat or protection relaythat simply close or open the electrical circuit. However, if the clicks are accompanied by the fact that the unit stops cooling or, conversely, works without stopping, the symptom cannot be ignored.
Understanding the nature of the sound is the first step to solving the problem. In this article, we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of extraneous noise, methods of self-diagnosis, and situations when calling a technician becomes an absolute necessity.
Normal operation: when clicks are not dangerous
Many users begin to panic ahead of time, mistaking the normal sounds of electronics operation for a malfunction. Modern and old models of refrigerators, be it Indesit, Atlant or Bosch, make various sounds during their life. If the click is heard once every few hours and is accompanied by the engine starting or stopping, most likely everything is in order with your unit.
The main source of such sounds is thermal relay. This device controls the temperature inside the chambers. When the sensor detects that the temperature has reached a predetermined lower limit, it opens the circuit supplying voltage to the compressor and you hear a clicking sound. A similar sound is heard when turned on, when the contacts close. This is an absolutely normal physical process.
⚠️ Attention: If clicks are heard chaotically, very often (every few minutes) and the refrigerator does not freeze, this is no longer the norm, but a sign of an attempt to start a faulty unit.
It is also worth taking into account the operating features of the system No Frost. In such models, the fan and evaporator heater turn on periodically. Switching modes may also be accompanied by characteristic sounds in the control unit. If you have just placed a large amount of warm food in the chamber, the thermostat may work in a stronger mode, making switching sounds more often.
Starting relay: the main cause of single clicks
If the refrigerator makes a clicking sound but does not turn on, or turns on for a couple of seconds and stalls again with a characteristic sound, in 80% of cases the starting relay is to blame relay This small element is responsible for supplying a starting pulse to the compressor motor winding. Without it, the motor cannot gain the necessary speed.
Inside the relay body there is a coil and a movable core or posistor (in modern models). When voltage is applied, the core retracts, closing the contacts, which causes a click. If the mechanism is jammed, the contacts are burnt, or the posistor is faulty, the circuit does not close properly. The compressor tries to start, it hums, but the protection relay trips and de-energizes the system, making a second click.
Diagnosis of this malfunction is relatively simple, but requires compliance with safety precautions. It is necessary:
- 🔌 Completely disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply before any manipulations.
- 🔧 Remove the rear protective panel at the bottom of the unit where the compressor is located.
- 🔍 Visually inspect the relay for blackening, melting or odor burning.
- 🤲 Carefully remove the relay from the contacts of the compressor (usually it is simply put on top or side).
There is a simple test for the serviceability of the relay, no multimeter required. Take the item in your hand and shake it near your ear. If you hear a rattling sound inside, as if the internal part has fallen off, the relay is definitely faulty and requires replacement. A new part is inexpensive and easy to change with your own hands if you are comfortable with a screwdriver.
Compressor: when the motor cannot start
The most expensive and unpleasant cause of clicking is a malfunction of itself compressor. If the starting relay is working properly, but the engine still does not start, the problem may lie in an interturn short circuit of the windings or mechanical jamming of the piston group.
When attempting to start, the compressor consumes maximum current. If the rotor is jammed, the current increases sharply, and the thermal protection relay instantly breaks the circuit to prevent fire or final combustion of the windings. You hear the relay click, then the motor hum, and then the shutdown click again. The cycle can be repeated endlessly until you unplug the cord from the outlet.
You can identify a burnt-out compressor by the following signs:
- 🌡️ The motor housing remains cold after many attempts to start (or vice versa, it becomes hot, but without vibration).
- ⚡ When dialing windings with a multimeter, the resistance readings are very different from the norm or indicate a break.
- 🔨 Mechanical knocking inside the compressor housing when shaking (a sign of a torn spring or destruction of the piston).
Is it possible to start a jammed compressor?
There is a method of “starting from high voltage” or through a capacitor, but at home this is dangerous and ineffective. If the compressor is mechanically jammed, only replacing it or complex professional repairs involving opening the housing will help, which is not economically feasible.
Replacing a compressor is a complex procedure that requires a vacuum pump, a freon cylinder and a torch for soldering copper pipes. It is impossible to carry out this repair yourself without special equipment and skills. In such a situation, you need to call a specialist.
Thermostat and its influence on the operation of the system
Another element that makes clicks is thermostat (thermostat). It is located inside the refrigerator compartment and has a capillary tube that is sensitive to temperature changes. When you turn the adjustment knob or when the temperature reaches a critical point, contacts inside the thermostat housing open or close.
If the thermostat is faulty, it may “rattling.” The contacts inside it can burn or oxidize, causing the sparking to become stronger and the sound to become louder and harsher. Sometimes a faulty thermostat prevents the compressor from starting at all, breaking the power circuit, and you only hear silence or faint clicks when you turn the knob.
To check the thermostat, you can do the following experiment:
- Find the thermostat inside the refrigerator compartment (usually under a plastic panel or combined with the handle).
- Carefully close the two main wires going to it, bypassing the device itself (use an insulated conductor).
- If after this the compressor starts and works normally, then the problem is in the thermostat.
Therefore, you cannot operate it in this mode for a long time - this is only a diagnostic method.
Diagnostic table: determine the problem by symptoms
To systematize knowledge and quickly understand what exactly happened to your refrigerator, use the summary table of symptoms. It will help you weed out unnecessary options and focus on the main thing.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Can I do it myself? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single click once in 30-40 min | Normal operation of the thermostat | Not required | Yes (not necessary) |
| Click, buzz 3-5 sec, click | Start relay malfunction | Low | Yes |
| Series of clicks, motor does not start | Compressor jammed | High | No |
| Clicks when opening the door | Deformation of the body or hinge | Medium | Yes (adjustment) |
| Clicks and crackles inside the chamber | Thermoregulator or defrosting | Medium | Yes |
Pay attention to the line with the compressor jammed. If you observe exactly this picture (humming and shutting down), do not try to knock on the motor or heat it with a hairdryer in the hope of a miracle. This can lead to permanent breakdown.
Mechanical causes and external factors
The source of sound does not always lie in the electrical system. Sometimes the refrigerator clicks due to banal physical reasons. For example, when heated or cooled, the plastic parts of the case may expand and contract, producing a cracking sound. This is especially typical for new models or after intensive defrosting.
It is also worth checking whether the compressor or tubes are touching the housing or other elements during vibration. During operation, the motor vibrates, and if the mounting bolts are loose, periodic collision of metal parts may occur, which is heard as a knock or click.
☑️ Checking external factors
Pay special attention to the system No Frost. If the drain system is clogged, water may freeze on the evaporator and fan blades. When the fan tries to turn, it may hit the ice, making a cracking or clicking noise. In this case, the unit must be completely defrosted (for at least 24 hours with the doors open).
⚠️ Attention: If you hear clicking sounds immediately after defrosting and turning on, let the refrigerator run for a couple of hours. Perhaps it’s just the plastic “settling” in place or residual moisture in the defrost system.
Algorithm of actions when a malfunction is detected
If you understand that clicks are not the norm, you need to act consistently. Chaotic switching on and off of equipment can finish off a compressor that is still working properly or lead to spoilage of food.
The first thing to do is disconnect the refrigerator from the network. Let it cool and "rest". While it is turned off, perform a visual inspection and the initial diagnostics described above. Check the integrity of the wires, the absence of a burning smell and the condition of the start relay.
If you are not confident in your abilities or the diagnostics indicate a problem with freon or the compressor, it is better not to risk it. A professional technician will arrive with equipment for accurate diagnostics (pressure gauges, leak detectors) and will be able to accurately state the reason and cost of the repair.
Is it worth repairing an old refrigerator?
Repair is considered appropriate if its cost does not exceed 50-60% of the price of a new similar device. Replacing the compressor or defrost system in very old models is often not economically justified.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator click but does not freeze?
Most likely, the compressor start circuit is broken. This could be a faulty start relay, a burnt-out thermostat, or an interturn short circuit in the motor itself. The compressor does not start, the refrigerant does not circulate, and no cold is generated.
Are clicking sounds dangerous for neighboring equipment or wiring?
The clicking of the relay itself is safe. However, if the cause is poor contact or arcing, it may cause interference on the network. If clicks are accompanied by flickering lights in the apartment, you need to urgently check the wiring and socket to which the refrigerator is connected.
Can an inverter compressor click?
Inverter compressors work differently than conventional ones, and usually do not make loud clicks when starting, as they start smoothly. If you hear clicks in the inverter model, this may indicate a problem with the control board or a mechanical knock, which requires diagnosis.
How much does it cost to replace the start relay?
The part itself is inexpensive (usually from 500 to 2000 rubles depending on the model). However, if you call a specialist, you will also have to pay the cost of travel and work. Replacing it yourself saves a significant part of the budget.
What to do if the refrigerator clicks every 10 seconds?
Immediately unplug the appliance! This mode of operation (attempts to start) will very quickly overheat the compressor windings and completely disable it. Allow the equipment to cool for several hours before turning it on again or diagnostics.