The situation when food remains fresh in the main compartment of the refrigerator, but ice melts or meat softens in the freezer, is a classic sign of a serious malfunction in the cooling circuit. Many equipment owners Indesit, Atlant or Bosch erroneously believe that if the engine is humming and the light is on, then the breakdown is insignificant. However, it is this symptom that most often indicates that the system has lost the ability to create low temperatures in the second evaporation circuit.
In modern models, especially with the system No Frost, cooling of both chambers is often provided by one compressor, but the distribution of cold is regulated by a complex system of dampers and fans. If the main section is working properly, this means that the refrigerant is circulating, but its quantity or pressure is not enough to complete the full cycle, or the air circulation is impaired. Understanding the physics of the process will help you quickly diagnose the problem and not waste time on useless actions.
The first thing you need to do is assess the nature of the malfunction. Does the compressor run continuously without stopping? Is there a strange smell or gurgling sound? The answers to these questions narrow the search. Refrigerant leak or a clogged capillary tube are the most likely technical reasons that require the intervention of a technician, but there are also simple settings that you can check yourself.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the compressor works nonstop for days, and the temperature is freezer above -10°C, immediately defrost the refrigerator for 12-24 hours. Further work “to wear out” can lead to complete failure of the compressor.
You should not ignore the primary signs, since the cost of repairs at an early stage is often lower than replacing a burnt-out engine. Let's look at the main scenarios why a temperature imbalance occurs.
Tightness failure and refrigerant leak
The most common reason that the refrigerator continues to cool, but stops freezing, is a partial leak. freon. In the refrigerant circulation system, the pressure is adjusted so that evaporation occurs in a certain sequence. When there is less gas, it manages to release the cold in the first compartment (main chamber), but it simply does not reach the freezer or reaches it in a gaseous state, having no cooling capacity.
Leaks often occur in the foamed part of the body or in places where tubes are soldered, where a microcrack forms over time. It is impossible to notice this visually, since freon is colorless and odorless. An indirect sign may be swelling of the inner wall of the freezer or the appearance of oily spots on the back grill if the circuit passes there.
- 🧊 The compressor runs continuously, trying to increase the temperature, but does not turn off.
- 📉 The temperature in the freezer slowly rises from -18°C to -5°C or 0°C.
- 💨 In the main chamber, the temperature may be normal or even slightly below normal due to the constant operation of the motor.
Diagnostics of a leak requires special equipment. The master uses leak detector or the nitrogen pressure test method. It is impossible to independently find the location of the leak without a pressure gauge station and a vacuum pump. Attempts to simply “add gas” without finding and eliminating a hole in the circuit will only give a temporary effect for a few weeks.
Clogged capillary tube and heat removal system
The second most common cause is clogged capillary tube. This is a narrow channel through which refrigerant under pressure enters the evaporator. Over time, microscopic oxide particles, paraffin plugs, or ice crystals may form in the system (if there is moisture in the system). This creates hydraulic resistance.
When clogged, the compressor works, pressure builds up, but freon cannot pass through the narrow hole in the required volume. As a result, the evaporator in the freezer is either completely warm or only cools at the very beginning (at the inlet), while the rest of the tube remains warm. The main section can cool due to residual cold or natural convection, if the design allows, but a full cycle does not occur.
Often the blockage is accompanied by a characteristic sound. If you hear gurgling, hissing or periodic clicking noises when your refrigerator is operating, this is a sure sign of a refrigerant circulation problem. Unlike a leak, if there is a blockage, the pressure in the system can be normal or even increased on the discharge side, which creates additional load on the compressor.
Signs of a blockage:- Warm evaporator (partially or completely)
- Hot compressor
- Gurgling sounds
To eliminate this problem, you need to flush the system with high pressure nitrogen and possibly replace the filter cartridge. This is a complex procedure that requires evacuation of the system after repair to remove moisture.
Faults in the No Frost system
In refrigerators with the system No Frost ("No frost"), cooling occurs differently. There is one common evaporator, usually located in the freezer or behind the back wall, and a fan that drives cold air through ducts into the main compartment. If the freezer does not freeze, but the refrigerator is cold, this may indicate problems with the distribution of air flows or the operation of the fan.
However, the opposite situation or a specific failure occurs more often: the fan is working, but the damper that regulates the air flow is stuck in the “open” position for the refrigerator compartment, and all the cold goes there. Or the evaporator is covered with a “coat” of ice due to a malfunction of the defrosting system, and the fan simply cannot blow air through the ice shell.
- ❄️ The fan is humming, but the air does not blow from the holes (clogged with ice).
- 🌬️ A whistle or air noise is heard, but the temperature does not fall.
- 🔌 Ice freezing on the back wall of the freezer.
In such models it is important to check Defrost heating element i defrost sensor. If they do not work, the evaporator becomes covered with ice, blocking the access of cold. It is also worth checking the damper Air Damper, which is controlled by a separate motor.
Problems with the thermostat and sensors
Control electronics are the brain of your refrigerator. If thermostat (thermostat) or electronic temperature sensor (thermistor) fails, it may send incorrect signals to the control module. For example, the sensor in the freezer may “lie” by showing that it is -20°C, when in fact it is -5°C. In this case, the compressor will turn off, considering the task completed.
In mechanical models, the thermostat is a capillary tube with gas inside. If the gas has evaporated or the membrane has leaked, the contacts do not close and the motor does not turn on. But in our case (the refrigerator is cold), the problem may be out of synchronization: the main compartment sensor is working, and the freezer sensor (if it is separate) is faulty.
In modern models with electronic control (LG LineFresh, Samsung Digital Inverter), it often fails itself control module. It may not read the readings correctly and may not turn on the compressor at full power or open the dampers. Diagnostics requires testing the sensors with a multimeter and checking their resistance at different temperatures.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing a thermostat, it is important to buy a model with exactly the same parameters (on/off temperature). Installing an unsuitable thermostat will lead to food spoilage or freezing of the chamber.
Compressor wear and loss of performance
The compressor is the heart of the system. Over time, its mechanical part wears out. The piston group loses compression, the valves allow gas to flow back. In this state, the motor may hum and even vibrate, creating the illusion of operation, but in reality not pumping up sufficient pressure for a full cooling cycle.
In this case, the refrigerator can maintain the temperature in the main compartment (where +3...+5°C is required), but there is not enough power for the freezer (where -18°C is required). This is called "loss of productivity." The motor runs constantly, gets very hot, but does no useful work.
You can check the compressor by measuring the current consumed by the electric motor. If the current is lower than the rated current indicated on the nameplate, it means that the compressor is not pumping. Also a sign may be a quiet hum and the absence of the characteristic sound of flowing refrigerant.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor does not turn on | Start relay, thermostat, open circuit | Low |
| Motor hums, but does not start | Stuck, burnt winding, start relay | High |
| Works without stopping, does not freeze | Freon leakage, blockage, compressor wear | High |
| Colds poorly, cycles are short | Sensor malfunction, loss of compression | Average |
Replacing a compressor is an expensive and time-consuming process that requires soldering, refilling with freon and evacuation. It is often more economically feasible to purchase new equipment if the old one is more than 10 years old.
Is it possible to restore an old compressor?
In some cases, if the compressor is “jammed” due to a long period of inactivity, craftsmen use the “pinching” method (supplying increased voltage to the starting winding). However, this is a temporary measure with a high risk of permanent failure. For continuous operation, only replacement of the unit is required.
The influence of the external environment and operating conditions
Do not discount external factors. If the refrigerator is close to the wall, the radiator heats the back grille, or the room is too hot (above +30°C), the cooling system may not cope. The condenser (black grille at the back) does not have time to give off heat, the pressure in the system increases, and efficiency drops.
It is also important how you load the freezer. If you put a large amount of warm food there, the refrigerator will work in enhanced mode. If the door does not close tightly or the seal (rubber cuff) is worn out, warm, moist air constantly flows inside. This leads to the formation of ice and disruption of heat transfer.
- 🌡️ Check the room temperature: the norm for refrigerator operation is +16...+32°C.
- 🚪 Inspect the door seal: it should fit snugly throughout perimeter.
- 🧹 Clean the condenser at the back from dust and animal hair.
Often, simple defrosting for 24 hours and thorough washing and drying help eliminate problems caused by a “snow coat” that blocks the air supply channels.
☑️ Diagnostics before the call technician
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to add freon yourself if it has leaked?
No, this is impossible without special equipment. To refill, you must first find and repair the leak (otherwise gas will escape again), then create a vacuum in the system to remove moisture and air, and only then charge the exact amount of refrigerant indicated on the nameplate. Self-refueling “by eye” will lead to compressor failure.
Why did the freezer work after defrosting, but after a week it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or blockage. Defrosting temporarily removes the ice blockage (if there was an ice blockage) or allows the system to cool a little. But since the physical malfunction (a hole in the tube or debris in the filter) has not gone away, the problem returns.
How much does it cost to repair if the refrigerator does not freeze?
The cost depends on the breakdown. Replacing the thermostat or start relay is inexpensive. Freon refilling and leak detection are more expensive. Replacing a compressor is the most expensive type of repair, often accounting for 50-70% of the cost of a new refrigerator.
Does the amount of food in the freezer affect cooling?
A full freezer operates more stable, since frozen foods accumulate cold. It is more difficult for a refrigerator to “hold” an empty chamber, especially if you often open the door. However, a chamber that is clogged to capacity can prevent air circulation, which is also harmful.
To summarize, we can say that a temperature imbalance between chambers is a signal that the system is working at the limit of its capabilities or has a hidden defect. Ignoring the problem will lead to product damage and higher repair costs. Timely diagnostics and proper care of equipment will help to avoid serious costs.