The situation when the refrigerator compartment suddenly stops working, but the freezer continues to function normally, is one of the most common complaints from owners of household appliances. This phenomenon often takes people by surprise as food in the main section begins to spoil while frozen stock remains intact. In most cases, this indicates a violation of the refrigerant circulation or problems with the defrosting system, and not the complete destruction of the unit.
Understanding the physics of the process helps to quickly diagnose a malfunction. In modern models with the system No Frost cold from the freezer is forced to the upper compartment using a fan. If this mechanism is disrupted, the cold simply does not reach the food. In two-compressor models, the situation is even more alarming, since this may indicate a gas leak in the main evaporator circuit.
The first thing to do is not to panic and carry out an initial visual diagnosis. Check if the light in the refrigerator compartment is on, if the fan is running, and if there is any extraneous noise. Often the answer lies in trivial things that can be fixed without calling a specialist. However, the problem cannot be ignored: even if the freezer is working, the compressor may experience increased load, trying to compensate for the lack of cold.
Problems with the No Frost system and fan
In models equipped with the system No Frost, air circulation is forced. A special fan located in the freezer or behind the back wall is responsible for this process. If it stops spinning, cold air remains in the freezer and the top compartment becomes warm. This is one of the most common reasons why a refrigerator freezes only in the freezer.
A fan can fail for several reasons: wear of the bearings, broken wiring, or jamming of the blades with ice. In the latter case, the defrosting system could fail, and the evaporator became overgrown with a “fur coat” that physically blocks the impeller. You may hear the motor humming, but there will be no rotation. In such cases, complete defrosting of the unit is often required within 24 hours.
- 🌪️ Stopping the motor: complete absence of rotation of the blades when the compressor is running.
- 🧊 Freezing: ice crust on the blades prevents free movement.
- 🔌 Electrical problems: oxidation of contacts or open circuit of the fan power supply.
- 🔊 Extraneous noise: crackling or hum, indicating bearing destruction.
⚠️ Attention: An attempt to manually spin a frozen fan can lead to broken blades or damage to the motor shaft. Be sure to defrost the refrigerator first!
Freon leak: symptoms and localization
If your refrigerator has two compressors or a system Full No Frost with one circuit, refrigerant leakage is a critical problem. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if there is a shortage of it, the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber first stops cooling. The freezer can continue to work, since it is located closer to the outlet of the compressor or has a separate circuit.
It is almost impossible to determine a leak visually, since the gas is colorless and odorless. However, indirect signs are quite eloquent. The compressor starts working almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but the sensors detect only a slight cold. Metal parts of the case may become hotter than usual due to overheating of the motor.
Often a leak occurs in the foamed part of the case or in places where pipes are soldered. In older models, this may be due to corrosion of the evaporator, especially if it was carelessly damaged with a knife during defrosting. In such cases, professional repairs are required to find the leak, evacuate the system and charge with new refrigerant.
Clogged capillary tube
The capillary tube is a narrow channel through which the refrigerant is supplied to the evaporator. Its diameter is so small that even a microscopic particle of debris or frozen moisture can completely block the freon flow. This phenomenon is called "hydraulic blockage". As a result, the pressure in the system drops and the cold ceases to be produced in full, affecting primarily the refrigeration chamber.
The blockage can be caused by poor-quality previous repairs when moisture or dirt gets into the system. Another cause is the destruction of the oil in the compressor, which turns into a viscous mass and clogs the channel. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor hums, but there is no cold, and the condenser may be only partially cold or warm.
To eliminate this malfunction requires:
- 🛠️ Purge: use of high pressure nitrogen to clean the system.
- 💧 Replacing the filter: required a new drying filter is installed.
- 🔄 Refilling: refilling the system with the exact amount of refrigerant.
It is extremely difficult and dangerous to remove a clogged capillary on your own. Requires special equipment for vacuuming and soldering. Attempts to “break through” the blockage using homemade methods often lead to ruptured tubes or damage to the compressor.
What happens if you ignore the blockage?
Prolonged operation of the compressor with a clogged system leads to overheating of the windings and eventual combustion of the motor. Repairs in this case will become much more expensive.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and sensors
Control electronics are the brain of your refrigerator. If the thermostat or temperature sensor NTC gives incorrect readings, the compressor may simply not turn on for the refrigerator compartment. In two-compressor models, this leads to the fact that one motor works (for the freezer), and the second is silent.
In mechanical thermostats, the problem may be in the capillary tube of the sensor, which has lost its tightness or has shifted. In electronic models, the sensor itself or the control board often fails. You can check the sensor with a multimeter by measuring its resistance at different temperatures.
| Type of fault | Symptom | Probability | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sensor failure | Error on display | High | Low |
| Thermostat failure | Compressor does not turn on | Medium | Medium |
| Board failure | Chaotic operation | Low | High |
| Wiring break | No signal | Low | Medium |
If you notice that the temperature mode is off, and error codes are on the display (if there is one), refer to the instructions. Often, replacing the sensor takes no more than 30 minutes and does not require complex tools. However, in models with complex electronics, it is better to entrust the diagnostics to a specialist.
Problems with the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigeration unit. If it works on only one circuit (in dual-circuit systems) or its power is insufficient due to wear on the valves, the cold is distributed unevenly. Interturn short circuit of the windings or wear of the piston group lead to a drop in performance.
The starting relay is responsible for starting the engine. If it is stuck or burnt out, the compressor may hum, click, but not start, or only start for a short time. In two-compressor models, a malfunction of one relay will stop the operation of only one chamber.
You can check the operation of the compressor by listening to its sound. A uniform hum is a sign of normality. A knocking, clanging or intermittent hum followed by a clicking sound and stopping indicates a serious problem. In such cases, a starting device is often required. compressor replacement or starting device.
⚠️ Attention: If the compressor is hot to the touch (more than 80-90°C) and does not start, immediately unplug the refrigerator. Further attempts to turn on may result in a fire.
Mechanical damage and dampers
In some models of refrigerators, especially with the system Multi Flow, the air supply is regulated by special dampers. If the damper is stuck in the closed position, cold air simply does not enter the refrigerator compartment. This often happens after inaccurate loading of products, when the bag moves the mechanism.
It is also worth checking the integrity of the rubber seals on the doors. If warm air is constantly entering the refrigerator compartment due to a loose seal, the system may not be able to cope with cooling, creating the illusion of a breakdown. In this case, the freezer can work normally, since its door is opened less often.
- 🚪 Checking the damper: make sure that nothing interferes with its movement.
- 🧶 Sealer: wipe the rubber band and check the tightness with a sheet of paper.
- 📦 Loading: do not place products close to the back wall, blocking the channels.
☑️ Diagnostics before calling a technician
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator freeze but does not turn off?
This is a sign that the system cannot reach the set temperature. Reasons: freon leak, clogged capillary, compressor wear or a loose door. The compressor wears out, trying to compensate for the loss of cold.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if one chamber does not work?
Short-term - yes, but this is harmful for the compressor. It will work non-stop, which will quickly lead to overheating and breakdown. Food in a warm chamber will begin to deteriorate.
How long does it take to defrost the refrigerator to check?
To completely defrost and restore the system operation No Frost it takes from 12 to 24 hours. The exact time depends on the amount of frozen ice and the temperature in the room.
Why did the refrigerator stop freezing again after defrosting?
If after complete defrosting the problem returned after a few days or weeks, then the reason is not the ice, but a technical malfunction (leakage, fan failure, blockage). Repair is required.
Is it dangerous to change freon yourself?
Yes, it is dangerous and ineffective without equipment. You need a vacuum pump, a scale for precise filling and a soldering tool. Unprofessional refilling will lead to compressor failure.