Why does the refrigerator make sounds: hum, crackling, clicking and other noises - what to do?

Your refrigerator has always worked almost silently, but suddenly it started humming like a tractor, crackling like ice or clicking like a relay? Do not rush to panic - in 80% of cases this is not a breakdown, but normal operation of the systems. However, some sounds do indicate malfunctions that can lead to damage to products or expensive repairs.

In this article we will look into all possible causes of noise —from harmless (for example, automatic defrosting cycle in No Frost) to critical (compressor or fan failure). You will learn how to distinguish “normal” sounds from dangerous ones, when you can cope on your own, and when you urgently need to call a specialist. We will also provide a checklist for diagnostics and answers to frequently asked questions about specific models (Atlant, Samsung, LG, Indesit etc.).

Let us immediately note: modern refrigerators (especially with the system No Frost) are noisier much louderthan the old Soviet models. This is due to additional fans, electronic units and more powerful compressors. If your unit makes sounds, but at the same time maintains temperature and does not turn offmost likely everything is fine with it.

1. Normal sounds of a refrigerator: when there is no need to worry

Many users confuse it with breakdowns. Here are the sounds that operating noise with breakdowns. These are the sounds that should present in a working refrigerator:

• 🔊 Quiet hum of the compressor - similar to the hum of a transformer. It may become stronger when first turned on or after defrosting.
• ❄️ Crackling and crackling - this is refrigerant bubbles bursting in the tubes or the plastic of the case adapts to the temperature (especially in new models).
• 💨 Fan noise (in models with No Frost) - resembles the operation of a cooler in a computer. It may become louder when the door is open.
• 🔄 Relay clicks —short and rhythmic, occurs when the compressor is turned on/off (every 10–20 minutes).
• 💧 Gurgling or overflowing of liquid —freon circulation through the system. Especially audible in quiet rooms at night.

These sounds can intensify depending on:

• 📦 Chamber load - if the refrigerator is full of food, the compressor is running more intense.
• 🌡️ Room temperatures — in hot weather (above +30°C), the load on the system increases.
• 🔌 Network voltage — during power surges, the compressor may hum louder.

If the refrigerator makes exactly these sounds, but at the same time freezes normally and does not turn off, do not worry. However, there are nuances:

⚠️ Attention: In models with Linear Inverter (for example, Samsung RB or LG GB-) the compressor runs almost continuously, but very quietly. If such a refrigerator suddenly starts buzz loudly, this is a reason to check - perhaps the inverter unit has broken down.

2. Loud hum of the compressor: reasons and what to do

If the refrigerator hums like an airplane or vibrates so that the shelves shake, the problem is most likely in the compressor. Let's look at the main reasons:

If the hum is accompanied by overheating of the compressor (the body is hot, heat is coming from it), immediately unplug the refrigerator and call a technician. Operation in this mode can lead to interturn short circuit windings and complete breakdown of the motor.

⚠️ Attention: Never try to “help” the compressor with external cooling (for example, by directing fan). A sudden change in temperature can cause condensation on electrical contacts and a short circuit.

For models with inverter compressor (for example, Hitachi R-WB480PUC6 or Panasonic NR-BN30AW1) a hum may indicate on malfunction of the control board. In this case, the compressor will run jerkily or not start at all. Diagnostics requires special equipment.

Make sure that the refrigerator is level (adjust the legs)|

Check the voltage in the socket (there should be 220–230 V)|

Inspect the rear wall for damage to the tubes|

Listen to the compressor for extraneous knocks (may indicate piston wear)|

Check the temperature in the chambers (if it’s not freezing, urgently disable!)-->

3. Cracking and clicking: when it's dangerous

Short clicks usually associated with work start relay or thermostat. This is normal if they:

• 🔊 Sounds 1–2 times when turning on/off compressor.
• 🕒 Occurs at intervals 10–20 minutes (refrigerator operating cycle).
• 🌡️ Not accompanied failure of the freezer.

But there are situations when clicks signal problems:

• ⚡ Frequent clicks (every 1-2 seconds) —the relay is faulty or the compressor is “stuck.” We urgently need to turn off the refrigerator!
• 🔥 Clicks + burning smell —the relay contacts or motor windings may be burning.
• ❄️ Clicks + freezer failure —the thermostat or sensor is broken temperature.
• 🛠️ Clicks when opening the door - problem with the limit switch (micro switch) of lighting.

In models with electronic control (for example, Bosch KGE39XL20R or Liebherr CBP 3203) frequent clicks may indicate board malfunction. In this case, errors may appear on the display (for example, E1, F2 or flashing indicators).

If clicks are accompanied compressor failure (it does not start), try the following:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 10-15 minutes, then turn it on again.
2. Check whether the outlet is overloaded (turn off other devices).
3. If you have experience, gently knock on relay housing (sometimes helps with stuck contacts).

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators with a Full No Frost system (for example, Samsung RB37J5240SA) clicks can come from frozen fan. If the sound does not disappear after defrosting, check the evaporator for the presence of ice.

How to check the compressor relay without a master?

1. Unplug the refrigerator.

2. Remove the relay protective cover (usually secured with latches).

3. Shake the relay - if you hear a knock inside, it is faulty.

4. Inspect the contacts for melting or black deposits.

Attention! Do not touch the contacts when it is on nutrition!

4. Fan noise: why does the refrigerator whistle or hum? Its noise may resemble:

There is a fan in refrigerators with a system No Frost and some models with drip defrosting (For example, Indesit DF 4200 W). Its noise may resemble:

• 💨 Whistling —the blades rub against ice or the housing.
• 🔄 Humming —the bearing is worn out or dirt has accumulated on the axle.
• 🎵 Uneven hum —the blades are deformed or touching the wires.

If the fan noise appears suddenly, follow these steps:

Unplug the refrigerator and defrost it on 12–24 hours|

Check whether ice or food is blocking the blades|

Inspect the fan for damage (cracks, chips)|

Turn the blades by hand - they should rotate easily, without jamming|

If the noise remains, the fan or bearing needs to be replaced-->

In models with double fan (for example, LG GA-B489YDQZ), noise can come from freezer or refrigerator compartment. To determine the source:

1. Open the refrigerator door - if the noise increases, the problem is in its fan.
2. Open the freezer - if the noise changes, check its system blowing.

If the fan completely stopped, but the compressor is running, this will lead to:

• ❄️ Freezing of the evaporator (in No Frost).
• 🌡️ An increase in temperature in the chambers.
• 💧 The appearance of condensation on the walls.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators Samsung with technology Twin Cooling Plus (two independent cooling systems), the fan noise can be masked under the hum of the compressor. If you are not sure, call a technician for diagnostics.

5. Gurgling, hissing and other “water” sounds

Sounds similar to gurgling, hissing or fluid overflow, are associated with circulation freon or oil in the system. They can:

• 🔄 Become louder when turn on/off the compressor.
• 🌡️ Become louder when temperature change (for example, after defrosting).
• 🕒 Be audible at nightwhen the room is quiet.

These sounds not dangerousif:

• ✅ Refrigerator freezes normally.
• ✅ No freon leaks (smell of gas or oil spots).
• ✅ The sound is not accompanied by compressor hum.

However, there are exceptions:

• 💧 Gurgling + puddles under the refrigerator —the drainage system is leaking or condensation is not evaporates.
• 🔥 Hissing + hot pipes - possible leakage freon at the soldering point.
• 🛠️ Gurgling + freezer failure —the capillary pipeline is clogged.

In refrigerators with absorption system (for example, Electrolux ERN1400FOW) gurgling is normal, since cooling occurs due to the circulation of the ammonia solution. But if the sound becomes louder than usualcheck:

• Level refrigerator slope (must be strictly vertical).
• Integrity pipes on the back wall.
• Temperature in the chambers (if it’s not freezing, refueling is needed).

6. Vibration and rattling: how. eliminate

If the refrigerator shakes, knocks or shifts during operation, the problem is usually:

In models with top freezer (for example, Atlant MXM 1705-80), vibration can be transmitted to the shelves To reduce noise:

• Check whether the containers and boxes are tight.
• Make sure that the door is not skewed (adjustable with hinges).
• If the vibration is strong, install anti-vibration feet.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators with linear compressor (for example, LG DoorCooling+) there may be vibration sign motor imbalance. If the cause is not eliminated, this will lead to wear of the bearings.

7. The refrigerator began to make noise after moving or defrosting

If noise appears after transportation or defrosting, the reasons may be the following:

• 🚛 Compressor displacement —the fastenings could have become loose during transportation.
• ❄️ Fan freezing —after defrosting, moisture could have frozen on the blades.
• 🔌 Moisture on the electrics —can cause short circuits and clicks.
• 🔄 Settings failure —after shutdown, the operating mode could have gone wrong.

What to do:

1. Let the refrigerator stand 2–3 hours after moving (to equalize freon pressure).
2. Check compressor mountings and fan.
3. If the noise does not go away - defrost refrigerator for 12-24 hours.
4. Reset the settings to factory settings (instructions are in the user manual).

On models s intelligent system (for example, Samsung Family Hub) after moving may get lost sensor calibration. In this case:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 1 minute.
2. Turn on and hold the button Power Cool (or similar) 5–10 seconds.
3. Wait for automatic reboot.

8. When to call a technician: signs of serious damage

Contact the service center immediately if:

• ⚡ The refrigerator does not freezebut hums non-stop.
• 🔥 There was a burning smell or smoke coming from under the back wall.
• 💧 There are puddles on the floor, and in the cells the temperature is higher +10°C.
• 🛠️ The display lights up error (for example, E1, F5, dH).
• 🔊 Noise became metal or grinding.

The cost of repair depends on the breakdown:

Before the technician’s visit:

• Write down refrigerator model (located on the sticker inside or behind).
• Describe character noise (hum, crackling, clicks) and when it appeared.
• Check whether the warranty is valid (usually 1-2 years for a compressor, up to 5 years for some models).

⚠️ Attention: Details and prices may vary depending on the region and model. Check current rates at your service center. brand.

If the refrigerator is under warranty, do not disassemble it. yourself this will void the warranty. Contact authorized service center (the list is on the manufacturer's website).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about the noise of the refrigerator

❓ The refrigerator Atlant began to hum loudly after 5 years of operation. Is this normal?

Models Atlant (especially the series MHM) may wear out over time compressor suspension or start relay. If the refrigerator freezes normally, try:

1. Adjust the legs (vibration may increase due to uneven floors).
2. Clean the back wall of dust (dust impairs heat transfer).
3. If the hum does not go away, replace the relay or compressor shock absorbers.

The service Atlant recommend checking refrigerators older than 5 years once a year.

❓ Why does the refrigerator Samsung No Frost crack like ice, but maintains the temperature?

In 90% of cases, this is normal sound system operation No FrostThe cracking occurs due to:

• Expansion/compression plastic parts with temperature changes.
• Burning ice bubbles in the drainage system.
• Work defrost heater (turned on to remove frost).

If a cracking noise is accompanied ice on the back wall or increase in temperature, check:

• Serviceability fan (is the ice blocked).
• Operation defrost heater (this requires diagnostics).

❓ Refrigerator LG with inverter the compressor began to click and turn off. What should I do?

In models LG with Linear Inverter (for example, GA-B429SLGL) frequent clicks and shutdowns may indicate:

• Faulty inverter board (requires replacement).
• Firmware failure (you need to reflash the control unit).
• Problems with temperature sensors.

You can do it yourself try:

1. Turn off the refrigerator for 10 minutes, then turn it on again.
2. Reset the settings (press the button Ice Plus for 5 seconds).

If that doesn’t help, contact the repair service. LG costs 6,000–15,000 ₽.

❓ After defrosting, the refrigerator Indesit whistles and does not freeze. What's the matter?

Most likely, the problem is freezing of the fan or clogging of the drainage system. In models Indesit No Frost (for example, DF 5201 W) after defrosting it may:

• Ice accumulation on evaporator blocks the fan blades (hence the whistle).
• Water from the drain don't leaveand freezes at the bottom of the chamber.

What to do:

1. Thaw the refrigerator again for 24 hours.
2. Check drainage hole (clean with wire).
3. If the whistle remains, replace the fan (cost ~2,500 ₽).

❓ Is it possible to replace the fan in the refrigerator yourself Beko?

In most models Beko (for example CN 325220 X) replacing the fan why