Have you opened the refrigerator and the food in it is warm, although the freezer is working as usual? This is a common malfunction that owners of equipment of different brands encounter - from Indesit i Samsung to Liebherr i Atlant. In most cases, the problem can be solved, but it is important to correctly determine its source.
In this article we will analyze 7 main reasonswhy the refrigerator does not cool, but the freezer works properly. You will learn how to independently diagnose a breakdown, when you can get by with a simple setup, and in which cases you will need to call a technician. We will also give step-by-step instructions for troubleshooting and tell you how to avoid repeated failures.
1. Clogged capillary tube or filter drier
One of the most common reasons why the refrigerator does not cool, but the freezer works - clogging in the refrigerant circulation system. The capillary tube (thin copper channel) or filter drier can become clogged with small particles of oil, moisture or compressor wear. As a result, freon does not flow in sufficient quantities into the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber, but continues to circulate in the freezing circuit.
How does this manifest itself:
- 🔹 The freezer is operating normally, but the refrigeration compartment is not cools.
- 🔹 The compressor runs non-stop or turns on too often.
- 🔹 Ice may form on the back wall of the refrigerator.
What to do? If you suspect a blockage, this requires special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauges) and experience. Contact a specialist. The average cost of repair is from 3,500 to 7,000 rubles, depending on the model. do not try to clean the system yourself — this requires special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauges) and experience. Contact a specialist. The average cost of repairs is from 3,500 to 7,000 rubles, depending on the model.
2. Refrigerant leak (freon)
Freon leak is another common reason why the refrigerator does not freeze, but the freezer works. Refrigerant can leak through microcracks in the tubes, solder joints or due to corrosion. As a result, its quantity in the system becomes insufficient to cool both departments, but the freezer continues to function due to the residual pressure.
Signs of a leak:
- 🔧 The refrigerator cools poorly or does not cool at all, and the freezer works intermittently.
- 🔧 The compressor turns on for a short time and quickly turns off.
- 🔧 Oily stains may be visible on the tubes or soldering areas.
How to check? It is difficult to determine a leak on your own, but you can inspect the back wall of the refrigerator for oil drips (freon evaporates, but the oil remains). If they are, this is a sure sign of a problem. For an accurate diagnosis, the technician uses leak detector or a soap solution.
⚠️ Attention: Freon is non-toxic, but with a large leak it can cause dizziness. If you notice a strong chemical smell, ventilate the room.
| Cause of leakage | How to detect | Repair cost |
|---|---|---|
| Pipe corrosion | Rust on the back wall | from 4,000 rub. |
| Cracks in the circuit | Oil stains, hissing | from 5,500 rub. |
| Depressurization of soldering | Visual inspection of seams | from 3,000 rubles. |
3. Malfunction of the thermostat (thermostat)
The thermostat is responsible for maintaining the set temperature in the refrigerator compartment. If it fails, the compressor may not receive a signal to cool down. As a result, the freezer works (its thermostat is separate or mechanical), but the refrigerator compartment does not.
How to check the thermostat:
- Unplug the refrigerator.
- Remove the protective cover from the thermostat (usually located inside the chamber or on the top panel).
- Ring the contacts with a multimeter in
resistancemode. At room temperature, the resistance should be close to zero.
If the thermostat is faulty, it must be replaced. The cost of a new part is from 800 to 2,500 rubles, depending on the model. For example, for Samsung RL-34 a thermostat will cost ~1,200 rubles, and for Liebherr CN 4015 up to 2,000 rubles.
Unplug the refrigerator|
Remove the cover from the thermostat|
Ring the contacts with a multimeter|
Compare the readings with the norm (0–50 Ohms)-->
4. No Frost fan failure
In refrigerators with a system No Frost the fan is responsible for circulating cold air. If it breaks, the cold stops flowing into the refrigerator compartment, but the freezer continues to work, since its cooling does not depend on the fan.
Signs of a fan malfunction:
- 🌀 It is warm in the refrigerator compartment, but the temperature in the freezer is normal.
- 🌀 When you open the door, you cannot hear the fan operating (normally there should be a slight noise).
- 🌀 Ice may form on the back wall, blocking the blades.
How to fix:
- Turn off the refrigerator and defrost it on 10–12 hours.
- Check if ice is blocking the fan. If yes, remove it with a plastic spatula.
- Test the fan winding with a multimeter. The resistance should be in the range of 200–500 Ohms.
If the fan burns out, it needs to be replaced. The average price of a part is from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles. For models Bosch KGE39XW25R or LG GA-B489YGQZ the original fan costs ~2,200 rubles.
Yes, with complete No Frost|
Yes, only in the freezer|
No, drip system|
I don’t know-->
5. Incorrect settings or electronics failure
Sometimes the problem lies not in the breakdown, but in incorrect settings. For example:
- 📱 Mode
Super FreezeorHolidayactivated erroneously. - 📱 The temperature in the refrigerator compartment is set to +10°C instead +4…+6°C.
- 📱 After a power surge, the factory settings are lost.
What to do:
- Check the current settings. In most models (Samsung RB37J5240SA, Indesit DF 5200 W), the temperature is controlled by buttons or touch panel.
- Reset the refrigerator to factory settings. To do this, disconnect it from the network for 5–10 minutes.
- If there is a display, run
self-test(instructions are in the manual).
In modern refrigerators (for example, Liebherr CBPesf 4055) the failure may be related to malfunction of the control board. In this case, errors like E1, F2 or H1are displayed on the display. To repair the electronics, it is better to call a technician.
Error codes for No Frost refrigerators
E1 - problem with the temperature sensor of the refrigerator compartment.
F2 - fan malfunction.
H1 - compressor overheating.
P1 - freon leak or system blockage.
6. Problems with the door seal
If the rubber seal on the refrigerator door is worn out or deformed, warm air gets inside and the temperature does not drop to the desired level. The freezer works normally, since its door is sealed.
How to check the seal:
- 🚪 Close the door and try to insert a sheet of paper between it and the body. If it falls out, the seal is faulty.
- 🚪 Inspect the rubber band for cracks, tears or peeling.
- 🚪 Check if shelves or products are preventing the closure.
Solutions:
- 🔧 If the seal is dirty, wash it warm water and soap and dry.
- 🔧 If the elastic band is deformed, try restoring the shape with a hairdryer (heat to 60–70°C and shape it with your hands).
- 🔧 In case of serious damage, replace the seal. The cost of a new one is from 1,000 to 3,000 rubles.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use abrasives or solvents to clean the seal - they destroy the rubber.
7. Clogged drainage system
In refrigerators with a drip defrosting system (Indesit BIAA 13, Biryusa 140), condensate flows down the back wall into the drainage hole. If it becomes clogged, water accumulates and freezes, blocking air circulation. As a result, the refrigerator compartment does not cool, and the freezer operates normally.
Signs of a blockage:
- 💧 Water accumulates at the bottom of the refrigerator.
- 💧 Ice or frost forms on the back wall.
- 💧 There is an unpleasant smell coming from the refrigerator.
How to clean the drain:
- Unplug the refrigerator and defrost it.
- Find the drainage hole (usually at the bottom of the back wall).
- Clean it with a cotton swab with a stick or soft wire.
- Rinse the system with warm water using a syringe.
If the blockage is severe, you can use special cleaner for drainage (sold in household chemical stores). Do not use sharp objects - they can damage plastic parts.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it does not cool, but the freezer is working?
For a short time (1-2 days) it is possible, but not recommended. Food in the refrigerator compartment will spoil faster, and increased load on the freezer can lead to compressor failure. It is better to temporarily transfer perishable foods to the freezer (if there is space) or to a cooler bag.
How much does it cost to repair if the refrigerator is not cooling?
The cost depends on the reason:
- Replacement of the thermostat - 1,500–3,000 RUB
- Cleaning the system and refilling freon - 4,000–7,000 RUB
- Repair of the control board - 3,500-6,000 RUB
- Replacement of the No Frost fan - 2,000-4,000 rub.
Service centers often offer discounts on comprehensive repairs.
How to prevent breakdowns?
Preventive measures:
- Defrosting the refrigerator every 6-12 months (even if No Frost).
- Regular cleaning of the seal and drainage hole.
- Controlling the voltage in the network (use a stabilizer).
- Do not overload the refrigerator with food (especially hot ones).
Is it possible to fill the freon yourself?
No, refilling freon requires special equipment (vacuum pump, gauge manifold) and certified refrigerant. Incorrect filling may result in explosion or poisoning. Contact qualified technicians only.
Why does the refrigerator not cool after defrosting?
Possible reasons:
- The seal is not completely dry - check the tightness of the door.
- The settings are lost - set the temperature again.
- During defrosting, a freon leak occurred (if the refrigerator is old).
- The temperature sensor has failed - diagnostics are required.
Wait 24 hours - if the problem does not disappear, call a technician.