The situation when you open the refrigerator door and there is room temperature inside can drive any person into a stupor. This is not just a household inconvenience, it is a direct threat of food spoilage and financial losses. If your the refrigerator has stopped freezing, you need to act quickly, but without unnecessary panic, which often interferes with correct diagnosis.
The first thing that comes to mind is that the equipment has broken down, and you need to call a technician. However, in half of the cases the problem lies in trivial things: improper operation, rare defrosting or settings failure. Understanding why the refrigerator does not coolwill allow you to save time and money by fixing the problem yourself.
In this article we will analyze all possible scenarios, from simple user errors to serious technical breakdowns of the system No Frost or Low Frost. You will learn how to distinguish a freon leak from a thermostat failure and when self-repair is really dangerous.
Primary diagnostics: simple reasons for a stop
Before you grab the tools or phone the customer service, do a basic check. Often the refrigerator does not gain temperature due to elementary reasons that can be easily eliminated. Carefully inspect the equipment and analyze the last actions with it.
Pay attention to how long ago you defrosted it. If the unit requires manual defrosting and you haven't done so for several months, a layer of ice could be blocking air circulation. In the systems No Frost the drainage channel could be clogged, which led to freezing of the evaporator and stopping cooling.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the compressor is running without stopping, but there is no cold, do not try to immediately disassemble the back wall. This may be a sign of a refrigerant leak, and further wear and tear on the motor will only worsen the situation.
Check the door for tight fit. Over time, the rubber seal dries out, cracks, or simply becomes contaminated with grease. Through the resulting cracks, warm air constantly enters the chamber, and the refrigerator does not have time to cool products, working non-stop.
Problems with temperature conditions and defrosting
One of the most common reasons why The refrigerator does not freeze well, the temperature or operating mode is incorrectly set. Modern models are equipped with electronic controls, where a failure in the settings or a power surge can disrupt the parameters.
If you have a two-compressor model, check the settings for each chamber separately. It is possible that the "Holiday" or "Eco" mode has been accidentally activated in the refrigerator compartment, where the temperature is maintained at +14...+15°C to save energy. In this case, the equipment is working, but does not cool as you expect.
For models with manual defrosting, it is critical to follow the defrosting schedule. The ice on the walls acts as a heat insulator, preventing cold from penetrating into the chamber. In units No Frost a special heating element and timer are responsible for defrosting. If this system fails, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a “fur coat”, blocking the ventilation ducts.
☑️ Check before calling a technician
Try to completely defrost the unit. Unplug it, open the doors and leave it for at least 12 hours (preferably a day). This will help melt the ice in the hidden channels of the evaporator. If after switching on the refrigerator began to freeze again, but a week later the problem returned, it means that the defrosting system is faulty.
Faults in the defrosting system No Frost
System No Frost (or "Without frost") greatly simplifies life, eliminating the need for manual defrosting, but it also adds components that can fail. Main elements: evaporator heating element, defrost sensor and timer (or electronic control module).
Most often it burns out itself defrost heating element. In this case, the ice that forms on the evaporator during compressor operation is not melted during the defrost cycle. Over time, the ice block blocks the fan, and cold air stops flowing into the chamber. Visually, this can be manifested by the fact that the freezer freezes, but the refrigerator does not.
⚠️ Attention: Replacing the heating element or defrost sensor requires partial disassembly of the internal chamber and removal of plastic panels. Be careful with plastic latches - they become brittle in the cold.
Another culprit is the defrost sensor. It controls the temperature of the evaporator and gives a command to turn off the heating element. If the sensor is “lying,” the system may either not turn on the heating at all, or heat for too long, which also disrupts the operating cycle.
How to check the heating element with a multimeter?
To check the heating element, you need to call up its resistance. The normal value ranges from 200 to 500 ohms. If the device shows one (infinity) or zero, the heating element has burned out and requires replacement.
Freon leakage and problems with the compressor
If after defrosting and checking the settings the refrigerator does not cool, and the compressor is either silent or works without stopping, there is a high probability of problems with the refrigerant or motor. Freon is the “blood” of the refrigerator, circulating in a closed circuit.
Freon leakage often occurs due to mechanical damage (shock during transportation, through corrosion of tubes) or factory soldering defects. Signs of a leak: the refrigerator hums, but does not freeze, the condenser (grid at the back) remains only partially cold or warm, and there is room temperature inside.
The compressor is the most expensive and complex component. If it fails, you may hear a clicking sound when trying to start or complete silence. Another common problem is the motor-compressor jamming, when it hums but cannot start.
Diagnostics of leaks and replacement of the compressor are tasks for professionals. You will need a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station and precise knowledge of the type and amount of refrigerant for your model Indesit, Atlant or Bosch.
Clogging of the capillary tube
One of the insidious reasons why the refrigerator has stopped freezingis blockage of the capillary tubes. This is a thin copper tube where throttling (sharp expansion) of the refrigerant occurs. It can become clogged with debris that got into the system during poor-quality repairs, or with ice (humidity).
When clogged, the circulation of freon is disrupted. The compressor tries to pump gas, creating excess pressure in front of the plug and vacuum after it. As a result the refrigerator does not hold the temperature, and the condenser may heat up unevenly (only at the beginning of the coil).
| Symptom | Probable cause | The nature of the compressor operation |
|---|---|---|
| The Internet does not freeze anywhere | Freon leakage | Works constantly or does not turn on |
| Freezer OK, refrigerator warm | System malfunction No Frost | Operates in normal mode |
| Weak cooling, condensation | Loose door seal | Works with frequent switching on |
| Clicks, startup and shutdown | Malfunction of the starting relay | Tries to start jerkily |
Malfunctions of the thermostat and control module
The thermostat (thermostat) is the “brain” that decides when to turn the compressor on and when to turn it off. If it is faulty, the refrigerator does not respond to temperature changes inside the camera. The contacts may stick in the “open” position, and the motor simply will not receive a command to start.
In modern models with electronic control, the thermostat function is performed by a temperature sensor, the signal from which goes to the main control module. A failure in the electronics, oxidation of contacts or broken wiring leads to the fact that the refrigerator does not freeze after defrosting or does not turn on at all.
Diagnostics of a mechanical type thermostat is simple: short-circuit the two wires coming from it, bypassing the device itself. If the compressor starts, the thermostat needs to be replaced. With electronics it is more complicated: it requires testing the sensors to match the resistance at a certain temperature.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing a thermostat, it is important to choose a model with similar parameters. Installing an unsuitable regulator will lead to an incorrect operating cycle: either the food will freeze or begin to deteriorate.
Often the problem lies in the compressor start relay. This is a small part that fits onto the motor contacts. If it burns out, the compressor cannot start, although voltage is supplied to it. Replacing the relay is one of the simplest and cheapest repair procedures.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator freeze only in freezer, but is it warm in the main chamber?
Most often this indicates a system malfunction No Frost. The air supply duct is probably frozen or the fan, which is supposed to drive cold from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment, is broken. A blockage of the capillary tube is also possible.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it does not freeze, but works?
You cannot use it for its intended purpose - the food will spoil. However, leaving it on when there is a malfunction (especially if there is a freon leak or problems with the compressor) is dangerous. The motor will wear out without stopping, which can lead to complete combustion and even a fire.
How long do you need to wait after defrosting for the refrigerator to start freezing?
After complete defrosting (at least 12-24 hours) and turning on the power supply, the unit takes from 2 to 6 hours to reach the set temperature. If after 6-8 hours the refrigerator does not coolthen the problem is not ice, but a technical malfunction.
Why does the refrigerator click and does not turn on?
The starting relay usually makes clicks when trying to start compressor If this is not followed by a humming sound from the motor, it means the relay is faulty or the compressor itself is jammed. Diagnostics and replacement of the starting device or motor repair are required.