The situation when the upper chamber of the refrigerator Posis stops cooling food, in while the freezer continues to freeze properly is one of the most common complaints from owners of this equipment. This behavior of the unit often confuses the user, because at first glance it seems that the compressor is working and the system is functioning. However, uneven distribution of cold indicates specific malfunctions in the refrigerant circulation cycle or the temperature control system.
In most cases, the problem lies not in a complete stop of the motor, but in an imbalance of heat exchange. Refrigeration circuit may be partially blocked, or the temperature sensors transmit incorrect signals to control board. This leads to the fact that freon circulates only in the lower part of the circuit, leaving the upper chamber warm. Understanding the physics of the process will help you quickly diagnose a malfunction.
It is worth noting that equipment Pozis, like many other two-chamber models, may have a different defrosting system. In some cases this is a classic “crying” system, in others it is a more modern No Frost. Diagnostic methods for these will vary, so it is important to first determine the type of device you have. Next, we will analyze in detail the main reasons and ways to eliminate them.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the first reasons why the refrigerator Position stops freezing in the main compartment is the failure of the thermostat. This mechanical or electronic component is responsible for turning the compressor on and off depending on the temperature inside the chambers. If the sensor is “stuck” in the “off” position when the temperature in the freezer reaches a low temperature, the motor may not start to cool the upper compartment.
In models with electronic control, thermal sensor, located in the evaporator or inside the chamber, is responsible for this process. Its incorrect readings can confuse the logic of the control board. The user may notice that the compressor operates in very short cycles or, conversely, almost never turns off, but the cold does not flow to the upper part. Checking the resistance of the sensor with a multimeter will often reveal the problem.
⚠️ Attention: Before replacing any electrical components, including thermostats and sensors, be sure to unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet. Working under voltage is dangerous to life and can lead to failure of the control board.
If you find that the mechanical type thermostat does not click when you turn the knob, it must be replaced. In electronic models, the error is often displayed on the display or signaled by flashing indicators. A malfunction of the defrost sensor often leads to the evaporator becoming overgrown with ice and blocking the air supply channels. For accurate diagnosis, it is better to use the technical data sheet of a specific model Pozis.
Problems with the defrost system (No Frost)
In refrigerators with a system No Frost cold air is circulated forcibly using a fan. If the refrigerator is not freezing, but the freezer is working, this may mean that the air ducts leading to the refrigerator compartment are blocked with ice. This occurs due to a malfunction in the defrosting system: the heating element does not heat, the timer does not work, or the defrost sensor is faulty.
An ice plug blocks the air flow, and although it is cold in the freezer (the evaporator is located there), the cold simply does not reach the upper chamber. You can hear the fan humming, but there is no airflow. You can check this visually by getting to the back wall of the refrigerator compartment and inspecting the channels.
How to check the defrost system without disassembling it?
Plug in the refrigerator and listen. If you hear the fan hum, but no cold air is blowing from the vents in the back wall of the refrigerator, the ducts are likely clogged with ice. Also a sign may be the absence of the characteristic cracking sound of ice during defrosting (if it was supposed to occur).
To eliminate the malfunction, the unit must be completely defrosted within 24 hours. If after this the problem returns after a few days, it means that one of the elements of the defrost system (heating element, sensor, timer) requires replacement. In models Pozis with electronics, the defrosting heating element itself often burns out due to power surges.
- 🧊 defrosting heating element is a heating element that melts ice on the evaporator.
- ⏱️ Defrost timer —a mechanical or electronic device that sets intervals for turning on the heating.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor —monitors the temperature of the evaporator and turns off the heating element when the ice has melted.
Leakage refrigerant and clogged capillary tube
A more serious reason why Posis it does not freeze well in the upper chamber is a partial leak of freon or a clogged capillary tube. An “ice plug” of moisture or clogging with corrosion products may form in the refrigerant circulation system. In this case, the freon circulates, but its pressure drops, and it only manages to evaporate in the first part of the circuit (the freezer), without reaching the refrigerator compartment.
Signs of a leak or blockage are often hot side walls (the condenser is operating in increased mode) or, conversely, cold pipes when the compressor is running. There may also be swelling of the back wall inside the freezer. Filter drier in such cases it may become covered with frost or become warm.
It is impossible to independently eliminate a leak or break through a blockage without special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station). You need to call a technician to find the leak, solder the system, replace the filter and fill the refrigerator with new freon. Attempts to simply add gas (“add gas”) give only a temporary effect.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm | Leakage freon / Clogged | Call a technician, search for leaks, refill |
| Frost only at the entrance to the freezer | Lack of refrigerant | Pressure diagnostics, refill |
| The compressor is hot, humming | Capillary clogged | Purge the system, replace the filter |
| The refrigerator is silent | Total leakage | Check tightness of the circuit |
Incorrect setup and operation
Before sounding the alarm and looking for breakdowns, it is worth eliminating human factor. Sometimes users accidentally change the settings or load the camera in such a way that the air supply is blocked. In refrigerators Pozis with electronic control, a failure in the settings could occur due to a power surge.
Check whether the minimum cooling power is set. If the mechanical thermostat knob is set to “1” or “Min,” the refrigerator will operate in economy mode, which may not be enough for the upper chamber in hot weather. Also make sure that the products do not lie close to the back wall, blocking the channels.
Pay special attention to the door seal. If the elastic band at the top does not fit tightly, warm air constantly enters there. The compressor may not be able to cope with the heat flow, creating the illusion of a breakdown. Wipe the seal and check its fit around the entire perimeter.
- 🚪 Check the tight fit of sealing rubber.
- 🌡️ Make sure the thermostat is not turned to minimum.
- 📦 Do not place hot foods inside the chamber.
Failures in the operation of the compressor
Although the compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator, and if it works, it usually freezes everywhere, there are nuances. Dual-circuit systems or split-flow models may behave strangely when engine performance decreases. If compressor lost part of its power, the freon pressure can only be enough for the freezer.
It is also worth checking the start-up relay. If it is burnt, the compressor may be difficult to start or may be unstable. Humming, clicking and unsuccessful starting attempts indicate problems with the electrical part of the motor or its mechanical wear.
In some cases, the compressor works, but does not create the necessary pressure drop. This may be due to loss of valve group compression. Diagnostics of this unit requires measuring the pressure at the compressor outlet. It is not recommended to climb inside the motor yourself - it is easier and cheaper to replace the entire unit.
⚠️ Attention: If the compressor operates continuously for more than 20 hours a day, and the temperature in the chambers does not drop to normal, this is a sign of loss of performance or leakage. Operation in this mode will quickly lead to burnout of the motor windings.
Diagnostics and step-by-step testing instructions
To independently diagnose a malfunction when the freezer is working but the refrigerator is not, it is recommended to follow a clear algorithm. This will help you weed out simple problems and understand when you need to call a specialist. Start by visually inspecting and listening to the operation of the unit.
First defrost the refrigerator completely (at least 24 hours). This will eliminate the problem of ice blockage in the No Frost channels. After switching on, measure the temperature in both chambers after 2-3 hours of operation. If there are no speakers, proceed to checking the electrics.
☑️ Primary diagnostic checklist
If you have the skills to work with a multimeter, you can “ring” the circuit of the thermostat and sensors. Lack of resistance (break) will indicate a faulty element. However, if the problem is a freon leak, you cannot do without a master’s tool.
What to do if after defrosting the refrigerator started working, but after a week it stopped freezing again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, sensor or timer). Ice again accumulates on the evaporator and blocks the channel. The burnt element of the defrost system needs to be replaced.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if only the freezer freezes?
For a short time - yes, if you transfer food from the top chamber down. However, it is impossible to work like this for a long time: the compressor will work to wear out, trying to gain temperature, which will lead to its breakdown or swelling of the walls.
Why does ice freeze on only one side in the Pozis refrigerator?
This may indicate uneven distribution of the refrigerant due to the tilt of the housing or a beginning leakage/clogging. Also check if the tube is pinched at the back when installing the refrigerator to the wall.
How much does the repair cost if you need to refill with freon?
The cost depends on the region and the volume of refrigerant. Usually this is a comprehensive service: diagnostics, leak detection, soldering, vacuuming and refilling. Prices may vary, so the technician will tell you the exact amount after inspection.
How to understand that the defrosting heating element has burned out?
Visually - by breaking the nichrome thread (if the heating element is an open type). Instrumentally - the multimeter will show infinite resistance (open circuit) when testing the contacts of the heating element.