The situation when it is warm in the main chamber of the refrigerator, food begins to spoil, and the freezer compartment continues to freeze properly, often catches owners taken by surprise. This is a classic symptom of poor refrigerant circulation or problems with cold air exhaust. In contrast to the complete failure of the equipment, such a malfunction indicates that compressor and the gas compression system is still functioning, but the cold does not reach the upper shelves.
There may be several reasons: from a banal drainage blockage to a complex failure. mechanical thermostat or electronics. It is important not to panic and consistently test several hypotheses before calling a specialist. In many cases, the problem lies in freezing of the evaporator, which is typical for systems No Frost.
If you notice an ice crust on the back wall or, conversely, complete dryness when the engine is running, these are the first signals for diagnostics. Below we will analyze in detail the mechanics of the process and typical breakdowns that lead to such an imbalance of temperatures.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear the hum of the compressor, but it does not start or turns off after a few seconds, this may indicate an interturn short circuit of the windings. In this case, self-diagnosis requires caution.
The principle of operation of the cooling system and the distribution of cold
To understand why it is warm in the refrigerator compartment, you need to figure out exactly how cold air gets there from the freezer. In modern models, especially with the No Frostsystem, the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic panel. Cooling is forced: a special fan drives cold air through the channels from the freezer to the main one.
If this air flow is disrupted, the freezer will operate normally, since there is a temperature sensor there, and the upper compartment will become warm. The key element here is the flaps that regulate the flow. In models with a drip system (“crying” effect), the cold is transmitted through the wall, and a violation here is often associated with a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube. circulation fan and flow control valves. In models with a drip system (“crying” effect), the cold is transmitted through the wall, and a violation here is often associated with a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube.
A violation of the tightness of the circuit or the presence of excess moisture in the system leads to the formation of ice plugs. These plugs block the movement of refrigerant or air, creating a situation where the “bottom” freezes, but the “top” does not.
How does the defrost cycle work in No Frost?
In No Frost systems, the heating element is periodically turned on, which melts the ice on the evaporator. If the heating element burns out, ice builds up and blocks the air supply channels.
Main causes of malfunction in No Frost systems
The No Frost system is most susceptible to the described problem due to its complex design. Here the cold is distributed by air, which means that any obstacle to the air flow is critical. Most often, the culprit is evaporatorwhich is covered with ice due to a malfunction of the defrost system.
When the defrost sensor or timer fails, ice does not melt, but accumulates. Sooner or later, this ice lump completely blocks the channel leading to the refrigeration chamber. As a result, the fan circulates air inside the freezer, but it simply does not reach the upper compartment.
It is also worth checking the condition air duct dampers. On some models it is controlled by a solenoid and may become stuck in the closed position. If the damper is closed, cold physically cannot enter the main chamber, even if the evaporator is clean.
Problems with refrigerant and compressor
If the defrost system is working, but the refrigerator still does not cool in the upper compartment, the problem may lie in the amount of freon. When refrigerant leak its volume is only enough to cool the first circuit - the evaporator of the freezer. The gas simply does not reach the main compartment, as the pressure in the system drops.
In such cases, the compressor can work almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature. This is a sure sign that cooling efficiency is reduced. Sometimes the leak is accompanied by the appearance of oily stains on the floor or on the rear radiator grille.
Another possible reason is clogging of the capillary tube. Oil circulates in the system, which over time can thicken or mix with breakdown products, forming a plug. This prevents the normal circulation of freon, and the cold is distributed unevenly.
Faults in electronics and sensors temperature
Modern refrigerators are controlled by electronic modules that read readings from several sensors. If temperature sensor in the refrigeration chamber fails and shows incorrect data (for example, that it is already -5°C), the control module simply will not give a command for cooling.
It may also fail itself control module. Burnt out relays or tracks on the board result in no signal to open the damper or turn on the fan. Diagnostics in this case requires a multimeter and knowledge in electronics.
Sometimes the problem lies in the oxidation of the contacts. In high humidity conditions, the wires leading to the sensors can oxidize, causing signal loss. Visual inspection of the wiring often helps to find such “contacts.”
⚠️ Attention: Before replacing any electronic components, be sure to unplug the refrigerator. Residual voltage on the board can lead to electric shock or damage to new parts.
Mechanical damage and leakage
Do not discount physical damage. If the rubber seal on the refrigerator door is worn out or torn, warm air constantly enters there. The compressor does not have time to compensate for the heat influx, and the temperature inside rises, although the freezer, the door of which is opened less often, keeps the cold.
There may also be mechanical damage inside: deformation of the air supply channels due to careless defrosting or cleaning. If you picked the ice with a knife, you could damage the evaporator tube, which will lead to a freon leak.
Check if the refrigerator is not too close to the wall or radiator. Violation of the installation rules causes overheating of the compressor and condenser, which reduces the overall cooling efficiency.
Diagnostics and table of symptoms
To accurately determine the cause, it is necessary to compare the observed symptoms. Below is a table that will help you navigate the nature of the malfunction. Remember that only a specialist can make an accurate diagnosis after opening the case.
Pay attention to the nature of the compressor operation and the presence of ice. These two factors provide 80% of the information about what exactly is broken. Do not ignore extraneous sounds - gurgling or hissing may indicate the movement of freon in an incomplete volume.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation | Presence of ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heat in the chamber, the freezer is working | Clogged capillary tube | Works with overload or turns off due to thermal | Ice only in the freezer |
| Temperature not holds | Freon leakage | Works almost non-stop | Ice is absent or minimal |
| Cold does not flow | Defrost system malfunction (No Frost) | Works normally | A lot of ice behind the back wall |
| The temperature is above normal | The sensor or thermostat is faulty | It may not turn on at all | Depends on the sensor readings |
Do-it-yourself initial check instructions
Before calling the service, follow a number of simple steps. They will help eliminate common mistakes or prepare equipment for the technician’s arrival. Often the problem is solved by simple defrosting if the problem is in the No Frost system.
Complete defrosting takes up to 24 hours. It is necessary to turn off the refrigerator, open all doors and allow the ice to completely melt. Do not use a hairdryer or hot water to speed up the process - this can damage the plastic and tubes.
After defrosting, turn on the equipment and let it work for 5-6 hours without loading food. If cold appears, then the problem was in the frozen defrost system. If not, repair is required.
☑️ Primary diagnostic checklist
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics and location of components may vary depending on the brand and model (for example, Indesit, LG or Bosch). Always check the manufacturer's official instructions before disassembling.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it does not cool, but the freezer works?
Short-term - yes, but you cannot store perishable food in the main chamber. Long-term operation in this mode can lead to overheating of the compressor and its final failure.
How long should defrosting last to eliminate the error?
To completely thaw the ice in the hidden channels of the No Frost system, it takes at least 10-12 hours, and it is better to leave the refrigerator turned off for a day. This is the only way to be sure that the ice plug has melted.
Why, after defrosting, did the refrigerator stop cooling again after a week?
This indicates a malfunction of one of the components of the defrost system: the heating element burned out, the defrost sensor or timer failed. Defrosting only temporarily removes the consequence (ice), but not the cause of its occurrence.
Is it possible to replace freon yourself?
No, this is impossible without special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station) and skills. In addition, incorrect refilling or using the wrong type of refrigerant will kill the compressor.