The situation when The refrigerator does not cool the upper chamberand in the freezer, on the contrary, everything turns into an ice lump, is one of the most common complaints of owners of household appliances. Users often notice that food in the main compartment begins to spoil, milk turns sour, and the shelves become room temperature. This is a clear sign that the balance of cold air circulation is disturbed or that the control system has malfunctioned.
Before calling a technician, it is worth carrying out an initial diagnosis, since the cause could be either a simple overload of products or a serious refrigerant leak. In modern models with a system No Frost and static cooling, the operating algorithms differ, but the basic principles of thermodynamics remain the same for all devices. Understanding exactly how your unit distributes cold will help you quickly localize the problem.
It is important not to ignore the first symptoms, since prolonged operation of the compressor in an attempt to cool the entire volume can lead to its overheating and final failure. If you notice that the engine is humming continuously, without turning off for rest, or, conversely, is silent, although the indicators are on, you need to react urgently. Next, we will analyze in detail the main reasons why The refrigerator stopped freezing in the upper compartment, and ways to eliminate these problems.
Problems with door seals and air access
One of the most common and easily fixable reasons why that the refrigerator does not freeze well in the upper part is a violation of the door seal. Warm air from the room is constantly sucked in, creating excess moisture and disrupting the temperature regime. The compressor tries to compensate for heat loss, working for wear, but the cold air, being heavier than the warm air, falls down, leaving the upper zone unprotected.
Particular attention should be paid to the condition of rubber seal (cuffs). Over time, the rubber loses its elasticity, cracks or deforms, no longer fitting tightly to the metal body. Even a microscopic gap of a few millimeters can completely unbalance the cooling system, especially in the summer, when the temperature difference between the street and the inside of the refrigerator is maximum.
⚠️ Attention: If the door is skewed due to heavy contents on the shelves, the seal will not fit evenly. Do not overload the door baskets with heavy bottles, as this leads to mechanical distortion of the leaf and a violation of the seal.
Checking the tightness is a simple procedure that can be performed independently without disassembling the unit. You will need a regular piece of paper or a banknote. Insert a sheet between the seal and the body in different places around the perimeter and try to pull it out. If the paper comes out freely, without noticeable resistance, it means that the seal is broken in this place.
In addition to physical wear of the rubber, a loose fit can be caused by contamination of the surface or the ingress of foreign objects (crumbs, labels) onto the contact line. It is also worth checking the door hinges: if they are loose, the upper part of the door may move away from the body more than the lower one, which explains why heat is from above.
Malfunctions of the defrost system in refrigerators No Frost
In units equipped with the system No Frostcooling in the main chamber while the freezer is running often indicates problems with evaporator defrosting. The principle of operation of such devices is that the fan drives cold air from the evaporator, usually located behind the back wall of the freezer, through the channels into the refrigeration compartment. If the evaporator is overgrown with a “coat” of ice, the air channels are blocked, and the cold simply does not reach the upper shelves.
The defrost cycle is controlled by several elements: a timer (or electronic module), an evaporator heater and a defrost sensor (thermostat). If one of these components fails, ice does not melt but accumulates with each compressor cycle. As a result, one or two weeks after the problem began, the refrigerator stops cooling completely in the upper compartment.
- ❄️ Defrost heating element: it could burn out, which is why there is physically nothing to melt the ice on the evaporator in the due time.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor: if it “lies” and shows that there is no ice, the control module is not working will turn on the heating, and the evaporator will overgrow.
- ⏱️ Timer or board: electronics could “freeze” or stop sending a signal to switch to defrost mode.
Diagnostics of the defrost system requires disassembling the back panel in the freezer. Visually, you will see a massive layer of ice if this is the problem. Often, users hear cracking or clicking noises inside the housing - these are attempts of ice to expand or break off, which is a sure sign of a “clogged” evaporator.
How to defrost a No Frost refrigerator to check?
Disconnect the unit from the network for at least 12-24 hours. Keep doors open. If, after completely defrosting and turning on, the refrigerator began to freeze normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returned, it means that the defrosting system is faulty and requires replacement of parts.
Failures in the operation of the thermostat or temperature sensor
The temperature regulator (in mechanical models) or temperature sensor (in electronic ones) are the “eyes” of the refrigerator. It is this element that tells the compressor when to turn on and when to stop. If the refrigerator does not maintain the temperature in the upper chamber, but the freezer is operating normally, there is a high probability that the sensor that controls the climate in the refrigerator compartment is transmitting incorrect data.
In mechanical models, the thermostat is a capillary tube filled with gas, which responds to changes in the volume of this gas when temperature changes. If the tube bursts or the gas escapes, the contacts inside the thermostat simply will not close, and the compressor will not start, assuming that it is already cold enough inside. In electronic models, sensors (thermistors) change their resistance. If the sensor has “escaped” into a break or short circuit, the control module may block the operation of the compressor or fan.
Symptoms of a malfunctioning thermostat often look paradoxical: in the freezer, food is frozen to stone, but in the refrigerator compartment there is heat. This happens because the freezer is cooled “by the residual principle” or has its own circuit, and the main cooling cycle does not start due to a false signal that cold has been reached.
⚠️ Attention: In some models of refrigerators (for example, Indesit or Atlant) the thermostat is located inside the chamber. Replacing it is relatively simple. In others (for example, Liebherr or Bosch), the sensors can be built into the case or hidden behind panels, which requires skilled disassembly.
To check the mechanical thermostat, you can try to close its contacts directly (only for a short time for diagnostics!). If the compressor starts working and cold appears, the thermostat is to blame. However, with electronic sensors such experiments are dangerous for the control board; here it is better to use a multimeter to measure resistance at different temperatures.
Freon leakage and problems with refrigerant circulation
One of the most unpleasant reasons why the refrigerator has stopped freezing above is a refrigerant (freon) leak. Unlike electrical problems, symptoms here develop gradually. First, you may notice that the unit begins to work longer, then the freezer begins to freeze worse in the corners, and in the main chamber the temperature rises to +10...+15 °C.
Freon circulates in a closed circuit. If a microcrack appears in the tube (often due to corrosion or vibration), the gas gradually escapes. As the amount of refrigerant becomes less, there is not enough of it to complete the full refrigeration cycle. Double-chamber refrigerators often use one compressor for two chambers. If there is a shortage of freon, it is the area farthest from the evaporator that first stops cooling - that is, the upper chamber of the refrigerator compartment.
How to determine a leak without instruments? Pay attention to the following signs:
- 📉 The compressor works almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature.
- 🔥 The side walls of the refrigerator (where the condenser is usually hidden) remain cold or warm only partially.
- 🧊 A “crying” effect appears in the freezer or the ice melts, although the compressor is humming.
It is impossible to eliminate a freon leak on your own. It requires searching for the location of the damage (often using nitrogen pressure testing), soldering the tubes and charging with a new portion of refrigerant using a vacuum depressor. This is work for a licensed specialist.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator, creating pressure for the movement of freon. If it does not work properly, the circulation of refrigerant is impaired. However, often the problem lies not in the motor itself, but in the start-up relay. This small device is responsible for starting the engine. If the relay is burnt out or “stuck,” the compressor may hum, click, but not start, or start for a couple of seconds and stall.
In cases where the refrigerator does not cool the upper chamber is damaged due to problems with the compressor, the freezer usually suffers. But in the early stages of compressor wear (loss of performance of the piston group), the pressure may only be enough to maintain sub-zero temperature in a small volume (freezer), and it is no longer enough for a large volume of the refrigeration chamber.
It is also worth mentioning modern inverter compressors. They are quieter and have smooth power control. If the inverter control board fails, the compressor may not receive a command to increase speed, remaining at the minimum speed, insufficient to cool the upper zone.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Characteristic sound |
|---|---|---|
| Compressor silent, no light | No power, socket burned out | Silence |
| Buzzing for 5-10 seconds, clicking, silence | Faulty starting relay | Humming + clicking |
| Works continuously, no cold | Freon leak / filter clogged | Smooth hum |
| Strong vibration, knocking | Destruction of the compressor suspension | Knock, clanging |
Clogged capillary tube and other rare causes
Sometimes the system is sealed, the freon is in place, the compressor is working, but there is still no cold. This may be to blame clogged capillary tube. This is a very thin copper tube in which freon sharply expands and cools. If moisture gets into the system (an ice clot has formed) or debris (corrosion, oxidation products), the duct is blocked.
Symptoms of blockage are similar to a leak: the compressor works, but there is not enough cold. The difference is that when clogged, the condenser (grid at the back) can only be hot at the beginning, and then cold. The filter-drier may also be swollen.
Rare causes also include:
- 🚪 Incorrect installation: if the refrigerator is moved close to the wall, the ventilation of the condenser is disrupted and the cooling efficiency drops.
- 🍲 Hot foods: placement in the chamber pots of soup sharply increase the temperature and humidity, the system may not cope for hours.
- 🌬️ Fan malfunction: in models No Frost if the fan hums but does not spin (the blades are jammed with ice or the bearing), the air does not circulate.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to clean the capillary tube or break through the ice plug with sharp objects! This is guaranteed to lead to depressurization of the circuit and expensive repairs.
☑️ Initial diagnostics with your own hands
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why is it cold in the freezer and warm in the refrigerator?
This is a classic sign of poor air circulation or lack of refrigerant. In two-chamber models, the cold is often generated in the freezer and transferred to the upper chamber. If the air supply channel is clogged (with ice or debris) or there is little freon, it does not reach the top. It is also possible that the damper that regulates the air flow may fail.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it does not freeze on top?
For a short time - yes, if you transfer perishable foods to the freezer or use them immediately. However, long-term operation in this mode is dangerous for the compressor, which will wear out trying to reach the set temperature. In addition, bacteria will begin to multiply in a warm chamber.
How long does it take to defrost the refrigerator for testing?
To completely defrost the system No Frost and evaporate moisture from hard-to-reach channels, it takes at least 12 hours, or better yet, 24 hours. Simply turning it off for 2 hours is not enough, since the internal ice may not have time to melt.
Why did the refrigerator start to freeze after defrosting, and then stopped again?
This is a sure sign of a malfunction of the defrost system (the heating element, sensor or timer burned out). Defrosting removed the ice plug temporarily, but since the ice removal mechanism does not work, after 1-2 weeks of cyclic operation a new “coat” grows, blocking the cold.