The situation when the refrigerator is humming, the light inside is on, the compressor is working, but the food in the freezer begins to melt is one of the most alarming for any owner. Loss of cold can lead to spoilage of a large stock of food in a matter of hours. Users often panic, assuming that the unit has completely failed, but in many cases the problem can be solved, especially if the source of the malfunction is correctly identified at an early stage.
The first thing that needs to be done is to carry out an initial diagnosis without resorting to complex tools. You need to listen to the sounds of the engine, check if the light is on, and evaluate the temperature in the refrigerator compartment. Modern two-chamber models, such as Indesit or Atlant, have a complex refrigerant circulation system, and a failure in one unit can paradoxically affect the operation of the entire system. In this article we will analyze the main technical reasons and algorithms of action.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a loud bang or smell a strong burning smell, immediately unplug the device. Further operation may lead to a fire or complete failure of the compressor.
Tightness failure and refrigerant leakage
One of the most common reasons why the refrigerator does not freeze in the freezer, is a banal freon leak. The refrigerant is a working fluid that circulates through a system of tubes, taking heat from the chambers. If a microcrack forms in the circuit, the gas gradually evaporates, and its quantity is no longer sufficient for effective cooling in the area of the freezer evaporator.
Most often, leaks occur in places where tubes are soldered or in the foamed part of the body, where the metal is subject to corrosion or vibration. It is almost impossible to visually notice a leak, since freon is colorless and odorless. An indirect sign is that the compressor works almost non-stop, trying to reach the set temperature, but thermostat does not turn it off.
If your house has a system installed No Frost, then if there is a freon leak, you may notice that on the back wall The freezer does not have the characteristic frost or “fur coat”, or it is covered with uneven spots of ice. In models with a drip defrosting system, the sign will be a complete absence of cold when the engine is running.
⚠️ Attention: Attempting to fill the refrigerator with freon on your own is strictly prohibited without special equipment and a license. This requires evacuation of the system and precise dosage of gas.
To eliminate this malfunction, you need to call a technician who uses a leak detector or nitrogen to find the place of depressurization. Once a crack is detected, the system is sealed and recharged. This is a labor-intensive process, the cost of which can be a significant part of the price of a new device if the model is old.
Malfunction of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigeration unit, creating pressure for the movement of the refrigerant. If The freezer does not freezebut the motor itself is humming, the problem may lie in its mechanical part or in the starting equipment. The compressor can run “idle” without creating the necessary pressure drop.
Often the culprit is the start relay - a small plastic block attached to the motor housing. It is responsible for starting the engine. If the relay contacts are burnt or the mechanism is stuck, the compressor will either not start at all or will work intermittently, making characteristic clicks. In this case, freon circulation is disrupted, and the cold does not enter the evaporator.
Another serious problem is the interturn short circuit of the motor windings or mechanical wear of the piston group. In this case, the engine may get very hot, hum louder than usual, but not develop the required power. Replacing a compressor is a complex repair that requires resoldering the tubes and evacuating the system.
Symptoms of a faulty compressor
If, when you touch the motor housing, you feel that it is hot to the point where you cannot hold your hand, or, conversely, remains absolutely cold while humming, this is a sure sign of its malfunction. Also pay attention to the color of the smoke from the pipes (if it is black) when starting.
You can try to check the relay yourself if you have skills in working with an electrician and a multimeter. It is necessary to remove the relay, inspect the contacts for carbon deposits and “ring” the circuit. If the circuit is broken, replacing the relay is a matter of five minutes and does not require calling a technician to refill with freon.
Problems with the defrosting system (heating element, timer, sensor)
In refrigerators with the system No Frost the proper operation of the automatic defrosting system is critically important. It consists of a heating element (heating element), a defrost sensor and a timer (or electronic control module). If one of these elements fails, the evaporator becomes overgrown with an ice crust, which blocks the circulation of cold air.
As a result, the fan circulates air, but it does not pass through the dense layer of ice into the chamber. The user sees the refrigerator running, hears the fan, but temperature in the freezer grows. Ice can completely block the air ducts, and then the cold will stop flowing even into the refrigerator compartment.
Diagnosis of this malfunction often requires completely defrosting the unit within 24 hours. If after defrosting the refrigerator began to freeze normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returned, it means that the defrosting system is not working. It is necessary to check the integrity of the heating element and the resistance of the sensor.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Replacing the heating element or sensor usually does not require depressurization of the freon circuit, which makes this repair relatively inexpensive. However, you often have to get to the evaporator through the back wall of the freezer, which requires care when removing plastic panels.
Clogged capillary tube or filter drier
There are bottlenecks in the refrigerant circulation system - the capillary tube and the filter drier. Their task is to regulate pressure and clean freon from moisture and debris. Over time, especially if there was moisture or oil breakdown products in the system, a blockage may form.
When clogged refrigerant circulation interrupts or is severely limited. Freon cannot enter the freezer evaporator in the required quantity. A characteristic sign of a blockage is that the condenser (grid at the back or on the sides) may be warm only at the beginning or, conversely, cold, and the filter drier may be covered with frost.
Removing the blockage is done by purging the system with nitrogen under high pressure or replacing capillary tube and filter. This is a complex technical procedure that cannot be performed at home without professional equipment.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor hums, but does not start | Faulty start relay | Low |
| The refrigerator runs non-stop | Freon leak or blockage | High |
| Ice only in the corner of the freezer | Faulty defrost heating element | Medium |
| Noisy fan operation | Icing or fan failure | Average |
Improper operation and external factors
Before diagnosing a breakdown, it is worth eliminating factors associated with improper use. Often users themselves create the conditions under which The refrigerator does not freeze. For example, loading the freezer with hot foods or placing the unit close to the wall.
If the refrigerator is too close to the radiator or in direct sunlight, the cooling system is overloaded. In a hot room, the compressor may not be able to cope with the heat flow, and the temperature in the freezer will be higher than normal, although the device is technically in good working order.
It is also worth checking the rubber seal on the door. If it is dry, dirty or the door is skewed, warm air constantly enters the chamber. This leads to a constant build-up of ice and rising temperatures. You can check the tightness using a sheet of paper: clamp it with the door and try to pull it out - it should stay tight around the entire perimeter.
Failures in the electronic control module
In modern models, such as LG, Samsung or Bosch, the electronic control module is responsible for the operation of all systems. It receives signals from temperature sensors and makes a decision to turn on the compressor, fan or heating element. If the “brain” of the refrigerator is faulty, it may not send a command to cool.
The causes of failures can be different: power surges in the network, moisture on the board, oxidation of contacts or factory defects. In this case, the refrigerator may behave chaotically: it freezes, then stops, or shows erroneous data on the display.
Diagnostics of the module requires special knowledge and equipment. Often a flashing or replacement of the control board is required. If you notice that the indicators on the panel are blinking in an unusual pattern, refer to the instructions - this may be an error code indicating a specific node.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long can food be stored if the freezer has stopped freezing?
If the freezer door does not open, the food can remain frozen from 4 to 24 hours depending on load level and outside temperature. A full chamber keeps the cold longer. If the food begins to thaw and becomes soft, it is better not to refreeze it, but to use it for cooking or dispose of it.
Is it possible to replace the seal on the door yourself?
Yes, this is quite possible. You need to buy a seal specifically for your model (the article number is usually indicated in the passport). The old profile is carefully removed from the groove, the new one is heated with a hairdryer for elasticity and inserted around the perimeter. The main thing is to ensure a tight fit in the corners.
Why does the refrigerator take a long time to reach temperature after defrosting?
After complete defrosting (especially if it lasted more than 10 hours), the system needs time to stabilize. Normal time is considered to be from 2 to 6 hours for the temperature to rise. If the freezer has not frozen the water in 10-12 hours, it means there is a technical malfunction.
Is it dangerous to continue to operate the refrigerator if it hums but does not freeze?
Operation in this mode is dangerous for the compressor itself. Working without shutting down, it overheats and can burn out, which will lead to expensive repairs. The food will also spoil. It is better to turn off the device and call a technician.