The situation when a two-chamber refrigerator Indesit begins to work in increased mode, turning food into ice blocks, is familiar to many owners of this equipment. Instead of fresh vegetables and chilled meat, you find frozen juices and crystallized oil. This is not just an inconvenience, but a signal that thermoregulation system has malfunctioned and requires immediate intervention.
Unlike No Frost systems, where ice practically does not form, in models with a drip system or combined cooling, excess cold can lead to mechanical damage to the shelves and the products themselves. It is important to understand that compressor in such cases it often works without stopping, trying to reach unrealistically low temperatures, which leads to rapid wear of the motor.
Before calling a technician or disassembling the unit, it is worth carrying out an initial diagnosis. Often the reason lies in a banal incorrect setting or a minor malfunction that you can fix yourself in a matter of minutes. However, ignoring the problem can lead to the need for complex and expensive Checking the thermostat settings and operating mode repairs of the entire refrigeration unit.
Checking the thermostat settings and operating mode
The first thing to do if the refrigerator Indesit started freezing too much means checking the position of the temperature regulator. In mechanical models, this is a rotary knob with divisions from 1 to 5 or from Min to Max. If the regulator is set to the maximum value, the compressor will work almost without interruption, creating extremely low temperatures.
In electronic models, control is carried out via the display. Here it is important to check whether the "Super Freeze" (Super Freeze) mode is accidentally activated. This mode is designed to quickly freeze large quantities of fresh food and disables the cyclic operation of the compressor. If you forget to turn it off, the temperature in the chamber can drop to -24 degrees or lower.
⚠️ Attention: In some models Indesit the super freeze mode can work automatically for 24-48 hours, after which it turns off itself. If more time has passed and the ice continues to grow, the problem is deeper.
It is also worth paying attention to the position of the thermostat. If the mechanical regulator knob turns too easily or, on the contrary, is jammed, the internal knob may be damaged or lost sensitivity. In this case, the regulator does not transmit correct data about the temperature inside the chamber, and the compressor continues to drive freon. capillary tube damaged or insensible. In this case, the regulator does not transmit correct data about the temperature inside the chamber, and the compressor continues to drive freon.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
If the settings are set correctly, but the refrigerator Indesit continues to freeze intensely, most likely it has failed thermostat. This device is responsible for opening the compressor power circuit when the set temperature is reached. If broken, the contacts can “stick” in the closed state, forcing the motor to work continuously.
In models with electronic control, sensors (thermistors) are responsible for temperature control. They are located in different parts of the chamber: on the evaporator, on the back wall or in the air duct. If the sensor “lies” and shows that it is warm in the chamber, although it is already cold there, the controller will give a command to cool.
- 🧊 Symptoms: The compressor hums without stopping, a thick coat of ice forms on the back wall of the chamber.
- 🔧 Diagnostics: To check the thermostat, it is often “bitten” out of the circuit and the contacts are closed directly. If the compressor starts working, the problem is in the thermostat.
- 📉 Sensors: The resistance of the sensors is checked with a multimeter. A discrepancy between the temperature parameters requires replacing the element.
Replacing the thermostat in two-chamber refrigerators Indesit usually does not require complete defrosting of the system if access to it is located outside or at the top of the chamber. However, in some models you will have to get to the evaporator, which will entail defrosting the unit within 24 hours.
How to check the thermostat without instruments?
Dip the capillary tube of the thermostat into a glass of water with ice. If after 2-3 minutes you do not hear a click of the contacts opening, the part is faulty and requires replacement.
Problems with the defrost system (No Frost and drip)
In refrigerators Indesit with the No Frost or “Crying Evaporator” system, the defrost cycle is critical. If Defrost heating element, the timer or defrost sensor is faulty, the ice does not melt, but builds up on the evaporator. Over time, the ice crust blocks the air circulation channels, and cold air ceases to be distributed normally.
Paradoxically, this can lead to the fact that in one part of the chamber it will be warm, and near the evaporator the products will freeze through. The fan, trying to blow air through the ice build-up, may work with overload, and the sensors will record uneven heating.
The main elements of the defrost system that may fail:
- 🔥 Defrosting heating element: Heating element, which may burn out or, conversely, break through to the housing.
- ⏱️ Defrosting timer: A mechanical or electronic device that switches the “cooling” and “defrosting” modes.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor: Controls the evaporator temperature and turns off the heating element when the ice melts.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Freon leak and temperature balance imbalance
It would seem to be a leak refrigerant should lead to the absence of cold. However, in two-chamber refrigerators Indesit with one compressor and one cooling circuit, the situation may be the opposite. If freon is partially leaked, the temperature balance is disrupted: there may be extreme cold in the freezer, and heat in the refrigerator, or vice versa, depending on the location of the leak.
If the leak occurs at the beginning of the circuit (after the condenser), then little freon enters the evaporator. It instantly boils and greatly cools the first turns of the evaporator, creating a local zone deep frozen. Products lying near this area will be covered with frost, while in the rest of the chamber the temperature will be higher than normal.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Actions |
|---|---|---|
| Ice only at the back wall | Thermostat is faulty | Replacing the thermostat |
| Ice in a “fur coat” throughout the entire chamber | Problem with defrosting (No Frost) | Checking the heating element and sensors |
| The compressor is hot, running non-stop | Freon leak or blockage | Call a technician to search leaks |
| Balling of the back wall | Evaporator corrosion (hidden leak) | Replacement of the evaporator or foaming |
It is difficult to diagnose a leak on your own, since special equipment is required to find microcracks and refill systems. If you notice that the condenser (grid at the back) is cold or only partially warm, this is a sure sign of a lack of refrigerant.
The influence of seals and chamber tightness
The tightness of the door is a key factor in stable operation. If rubber seal (cuff) is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. Sensors detect an increase in temperature and instruct the compressor to work harder to compensate for the heat gain.
As a result, excess cold may occur inside the refrigerator in areas close to the sensor, while the rest of the chamber is barely cooled. In addition, the constant influx of moisture leads to rapid accumulation of ice on the evaporator, which aggravates the problem.
⚠️ Attention: Check if there is anything preventing the door from closing tightly: a protruding shelf, the edge of a plate or a bag of food. Even a small gap of 2-3 mm can disrupt the operation of the entire system.
To check the tightness, you can use a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet between the door and the body in different places around the perimeter. If the sheet is pulled out too easily or falls on its own, it means that it is not sealing in this place and requires replacing or adjusting the hinges. seal does not fit and requires replacement or adjustment of hinges.
Clogged capillary tube and other technical reasons
One of the complex technical problems is clogging of the capillary tube. Plugs of paraffin sediment or debris (oil oxidation products) may form in the freon circulation system. This prevents the normal circulation of the refrigerant.
When a blockage occurs, the pressure in the system changes, and freon can boil ahead of time, causing severe hypothermia of the area before the blockage. This is often accompanied by a loud gurgling or whistling sound in the area of the filter drier. At the same time, the compressor works with a high load, trying to “push” the freon.
It is also worth mentioning the sticking of the start relay contacts. If the relay does not open the circuit in time, the compressor may operate longer than the required cycle, although this will more likely lead to overheating of the motor than to severe frost, but in combination with other factors the effect will increase.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why do vegetables freeze in the Indesit refrigerator, although the temperature is set to +4?
Most likely, the thermostat is faulty, which does not turn off the compressor, or the temperature sensor is “lying.” Also, vegetables could lie close to the back wall, where the temperature is always below the average in the chamber.
Can the refrigerator get very cold due to the heat in the room?
Yes, if the room is very hot, the compressor works longer. But if it does not turn off completely and freezes excessively, the problem is in the control system (thermostat, board), and not in the environment.
What should you do if, after defrosting, the refrigerator starts to freeze very hard again?
This indicates a hardware malfunction. Defrosting only temporarily removed the ice jam or gave the sensors a rest. Diagnosis of the thermostat, sensors or checking for freon leakage is required.
How can you tell if the defrost heating element in No Frost has burned out?
The refrigerator hums, but does not freeze, or freezes unevenly. There is a huge lump of ice visible on the evaporator behind the back panel. The heating element is checked with a multimeter for resistance (should be within normal limits, not broken).