The upper chamber of the refrigerator does not work: 10 reasons and what to do

If the upper chamber of your refrigerator (freezer or refrigerator - depending on the model) has stopped working, this does not always mean a serious breakdown. In 60% of cases, the problem can be fixed on your own without calling a technician. But first you need to determine exactly why the upper compartment does not cool, does not freeze, or does not turn on at all.

In this article we will analyze all possible reasons - from banal fan freezing to compressor failure. You will learn how to check the thermostat, temperature sensor and electronics, as well as when to contact a service center. We will pay special attention to models with the No Frost systemwhere failures of the upper chamber are often associated with a clogged drainage system or a faulty defrost timer.

Do not rush to defrost the refrigerator or knock on it - first diagnose the problem according to our instructions. We have collected the experience of craftsmen with 15 years of experience and added current data on modern models. freezer Samsung, LG, Indesit, Atlant And Beko.

1. Checking obvious reasons: what to do first

Before disassembling the refrigerator, rule out simple faults that do not require repair:

• 🔌 Power and socket. Make sure that the refrigerator is plugged in and there is voltage in the outlet (check with a light bulb or other device). Sometimes the top camera turns off due to a burnt-out power filter.
• ❄️ Vacation mode. Some models (for example Bosch KGE39AW21R) have a function to turn off the upper camera in case of prolonged absence. Check the settings on the control panel.
• 📉 Temperature mode. Perhaps the upper chamber is simply set to minimum cooling. Try setting -18°C for the freezer or +4°C for the refrigerator compartment.
• 🚪 Door closure tightness. If the seal is torn or the door is skewed, warm air gets inside and the chamber cannot reach the desired temperature.

If all these points are in order, but the upper chamber still does not work, proceed to in-depth diagnostics. It is especially dangerous to ignore the problem in models with the No Frost system - a fan clogged with frost can lead to overheating of the compressor and its breakdown.

⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator makes loud clicks or hums, but the upper chamber does not cool, immediately unplug it. This may be a sign of a stuck compressor or a short circuit in the start relay.

2. Fan freezing: why the upper chamber does not freeze, but the light is on

In refrigerators with a system No Frost (for example, Samsung RB-30 J3200SA or LG GA-B489 YEQZ) the upper chamber may stop working due to a frozen fan. This happens when:

• 🕒 The defrost timer is broken and does not turn on the heater to remove frost.
• 🔥 The heating element (heating element) is burnt out and does not melt the ice.
• 💧 The drainage hole is clogged and condensation accumulates on the blades fan.

How to check:

1. Unplug the refrigerator for 10-12 hours so that the ice melts.
2. After defrosting, turn it on and listen: if the fan does not make noise, it means it is blocked by ice or broken.
3. If after defrosting the upper chamber started working, but after 1-2 days it stopped freezing again - the problem is in the defrosting system.

If the fan is spinning, but the upper chamber still does not freeze, the problem may be thermostat or electronic control unit. In this case, you cannot do without diagnostics with a multimeter.

3. Failure of the thermostat or temperature sensor

If the upper chamber of the refrigerator does not work, but the lower one freezes normally, the culprit may be thermostat (in mechanical models) or temperature sensor (in electronic models). These parts are responsible for turning the compressor on/off.

How to check the thermostat:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the thermostat protective cover (usually located inside the chamber or on the back wall).
3. Short the 2 thermostat wires (usually red and brown) together. If the compressor starts working, the thermostat is faulty.

In electronic models (for example, Indesit DF 5200 W) instead of a thermostat, thermistoris used. Its resistance should change with temperature changes. Check it with a multimeter:

• 🔹 At room temperature: ~5–7 kOhm.
• 🔹 When cooled (for example, with ice): the resistance should drop.

If the resistance does not change or is equal zero/infinity - the sensor is broken and requires replacement. In some cases, it helps reflashing the electronic unit, but this is already work for the service center.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators with electronic control (for example, Liebherr CNef 4815), when replacing the sensor, you may need to reset errors through the service menu. Without this, the new part will not be recognized by the system.

4. Malfunction of the compressor or start relay

If the upper chamber does not work, and the lower one freezes little or does not cool at all, the problem may be in compressor or start relay. This is one of the most serious breakdowns, since replacing the compressor costs 50–70% of the cost of a new refrigerator.

Signs of a compressor malfunction:

• 🔊 Refrigerator hums, but does not freeze (the compressor runs “idle”).
• 🔥 The compressor housing gets very hot (more than 70°C).
• ⚡ The start relay clicks, but the motor does not start.

How to check:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and remove the back cover.
2. Find the compressor (black “barrel” with tubes) and the relay (small box on the compressor).
3. Remove the relay and check it with a multimeter for resistance between the contacts. Normal: 20–40 Ohm.
4. If the relay is working properly, check the compressor windings (the resistance between the contacts should be 10–30 Ohms).

If the compressor shows no signs of life (no humming, does not heat up), and the relay is working properly, the motor winding is most likely burned out. In this case repair is not economically feasible, especially for refrigerators older than 10 years.

What to do if the compressor hums but does not freeze?

This is a sign of a jammed piston or loss of refrigerant. In the first case, the compressor must be replaced, in the second, refilling with freon is required. It is impossible to do this on your own, since you need special equipment and a certificate for working with refrigerants.

5. Freon leak: why the upper chamber does not cool, but the compressor is working

If the compressor works without stopping, but the upper chamber does not cool, it is possible freon leakage. This happens due to:

• 🛠️ Mechanical damage to the tubes (for example, when moving the refrigerator).
• 🕳️ Corrosion of aluminum tubes (in older models).
• 🔧 Incorrect soldering during a previous repair.

How to determine a leak:

• The compressor runs constantly, but there is no cooling.
• The condenser (grid on the back wall) does not heat up.
• Oil stains are visible on the tubes or in the chamber (freon comes out along with the oil).

The leak can only be repaired at a service center. The technician will find the location of the damage, seal it and fill the system with freon. Independent repair is dangerous - freon is toxic, and its incorrect filling can lead to an explosion.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators with isobutane (R600a) leakage is especially dangerous - this gas is explosive. If you notice a strong odor (reminiscent of acetone), immediately ventilate the room and turn off the refrigerator.

6. Problems with the electronic control unit

In modern refrigerators (for example, Samsung RL-44 QEBS or LG GB-B509 SLQZ) the upper chamber is responsible for the operation of electronic control unit (ECU). If it fails, the camera may:

• 🔄 Periodically turn off.
• 🌡️ Not maintain the set temperature.
• 🚫 Completely stop working (no signs life).

Causes of ECU failure:

• ⚡ Power surges in the network.
• 💧 Moisture getting on the board (for example, during defrosting).
• 🕰️ Natural wear (through 8–10 years of operation).

How to diagnose:

• Check the display for errors (see the instructions for fault codes).
• If the refrigerator does not respond to the buttons, but the light inside is on, the problem is in the control unit.
• In some models (Atlant, Beko) you can reset the settings by turning off the refrigerator for 10 minutes.

ECU repair includes:

• Reflashing the microcircuit (if the problem is in the software).
• Replacement of burnt elements (resistors, transistors).
• Complete replacement of the unit (in 30% of cases).

The cost of repairing an ECU is from 3,000 to 10,000 rubles, depending on the model. For refrigerators older than 7 years, it is often more profitable to buy a new one.

7. Clogged capillary tube: why the upper chamber does not freeze slightly

If the upper chamber is cold, but not strong enough (temperature is 3-5°C higher than the set temperature), it is possible clogged capillary tube. This is a thin copper tube through which freon circulates. Over time, it may become clogged:

• 🔥 Burnt oil particles.
• 🧊 Ice crystals (if moisture has entered the system).
• 🛢️ By strangers impurities (due to poor-quality freon filling).

Signs of a blockage:

• The compressor runs non-stop.
• The condenser (grid at the back) heats up unevenly (one part is hot, the other is cold).
• The upper chamber cools weakly, and the lower chamber cools normally (or vice versa).

How to fix:

1. The technician disconnects the capillary tube and blows it with nitrogen under pressure.
2. If the blockage is severe, the tube is cleaned with a special solvent or replaced.
3. After cleaning, the system is evacuated and filled with new freon.

The cost of repairs is from 4,000 to 8,000 rubles. In some cases, it is cheaper to buy a new refrigerator, especially if the model is older than 10 years.

8. When to call a professional: 5 signs of a serious breakdown

Not all breakdowns can be repaired yourself. Contact the service center if:

• 🔥 The compressor gets very hot and turns off 1-2 minutes after starting.
• ⚡ An error appears on the display (for example, E1, F2 or OF OF in models Samsung).
• 💧 An oily liquid is flowing from the refrigerator (a sign of a freon leak).
• 🔊 The refrigerator makes uncharacteristic sounds (grinding, knocking, whistling).
• 🔄 The upper chamber either works or turns off for no apparent reason.

Average cost of repair:

Before the technician's visit:

1. Defrost the refrigerator (if it is safe).
2. Prepare access to the back wall (move away from the wall).
3. Write down the model of the refrigerator (located on the sticker inside or behind).

⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator is under warranty, do not disassemble it yourself! This will void the warranty. Contact an authorized service center of the brand.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about the non-functioning upper chamber

Is it possible to refill it yourself? freon?

No. To refill freon you need:

• Special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauges, cylinder with freon).
• Certificate for working with refrigerants (according to the law of the Russian Federation).
• Knowing the exact dosage for your model.

Improper filling can lead to an explosion or poisoning.

Why does the upper chamber work, but the lower one does not?

Probable reasons:

• In refrigerators with with one compressor the problem is with magnetic valvewhich switches cooling between chambers.
• In models with two compressors (LG GA-B429) the compressor of the lower chamber is broken.
• Clog in the capillary tube going to the lower chamber.

How much does it cost to diagnose a refrigerator?

Cost diagnostics in service centers:

• Moscow and St. Petersburg: 1,500 - 2,500 ₽ (free if you order repairs).
• Regions: 1,000 - 1,800 ₽.

Some workshops offer free travel, if repairs cost more than 3,000 ₽.

What to do if the refrigerator is under warranty, but the store refuses to repair?

Your actions:

1. Request a written refusal from the store.
2. Contact Rospotrebnadzor or Society for the Protection of Consumer Rights.
3. Write a claim addressed to the store director (a sample can be downloaded on the Rospotrebnadzor website).

The warranty period for repairs by law is up to 45 days. During this period, you should be provided with a replacement (upon request).

How to extend the life of a refrigerator after repair?

Tips for durability:

• 🔌 Use stabilizer voltage (especially in rural areas).
• 🧊 Defrost the refrigerator every 6 months (even if it has No Frost).
• 🧲 Regularly clean the door seals and hinges from dirt.
• 🌡️ Do not place the refrigerator next to the stove or radiator.