The situation when the freezer is working properly, but in the refrigerator compartment the food begins to deteriorate is one of the most common problems of equipment owners Atlant. This can happen both in older models with a crying evaporator, and in modern systems No Frost. The user is faced with the fact that it becomes warm on the shelves of the main chamber, the ice in the freezer can melt or, conversely, form a “fur coat,” and the compressor hums almost without interruption. Understanding the physics of the cooling process will help you quickly diagnose a breakdown and decide whether to call a technician or repair it yourself.
The main reason lies in a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a malfunction of the temperature control system. In two-compressor models, the problem is often localized in one circuit, while in single-compressor models it affects the distribution of cold between the chambers. If you notice that the back wall in the refrigerator compartment is dry and warm, and the compressor is working in increased mode, this is a sure sign malfunctions. Ignoring the first symptoms can lead to complete breakdown of the unit and spoilage of a large number of products.
In this article we will analyze in detail the technical aspects of the operation of refrigerators Atlant, consider the most likely causes of the failure and propose an algorithm of actions. It is important not to panic, but to consistently check the condition of the equipment. Sometimes the problem is solved by simple defrosting, but in most cases intervention in the technical part of the device is required, replacement of parts or refilling with freon.
The principle of operation of the cooling system and the distribution of cold
To understand why it is warm in the main chamber, you need to understand how the refrigerator works. Atlant. In classic two-chamber models, the cold is produced in the evaporator, which is most often located in the freezer or behind the rear panel. This cold is then distributed throughout the volume. In models with drip system cold air naturally falls down or is supplied by a fan (depending on the design), and moisture condenses on the rear wall. In systems No Frost a special fan is responsible for circulation, driving air through the evaporator.
The key element here is the refrigerant (freon), which, circulating through the tubes, takes heat from the chambers and gives it away into the environment through the capacitor (grid at the back). If this cycle is disrupted, the temperature in one of the chambers may stop decreasing. Thermostat or the electronic control module monitors the temperature and commands the compressor to turn on or off. If the sensors “lie” or the capillary tube becomes clogged, the balance is upset: the freezer can continue to freeze due to residual cold or the compressor is operating in emergency mode, and the refrigerator can “defrost.”
It is important to note the difference between single-compressor and double-compressor models. In Atlant with one motor, the total cold is generated, and its distribution depends on the dampers or natural convection. If the freezer is freezing but the refrigerator is not, this often indicates that the cold is simply not reaching the top compartment. In two-compressor models, each chamber has its own independent circuit, and a breakdown in one of them should not affect the other, however, there are cases of freon flow or problems with the general electrical system.
Clogged capillary tube: the most common technical reason
One of the most The probable reasons why the freezer Atlant continues to freeze, but the refrigerator is warm, is clogging of the capillary tube. This is a thin copper tube in which freon throttles (a sharp drop in pressure), which causes it to cool. Over time, oxidation products, moisture or oil residues can accumulate in the system and form a plug. When this happens, the circulation of the refrigerant is disrupted: it cannot fully pass through the entire circuit.
As a result of the blockage, freon accumulates at the beginning of the circuit (often in the condenser or filter drier), causing its intensive cooling, while how the refrigerant simply does not reach the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment or does not reach it in sufficient quantity. The freezer can maintain a low temperature for some time due to inertia or because the evaporator is located there, but the main volume of the chamber stops cooling. At the same time, the compressor works continuously, trying to “push through” the plug, but cannot do this.
⚠️ Attention: An attempt to clean the capillary tube yourself without special equipment (nitrogen, vacuum pump) often leads to depressurization of the system or damage to the tube. This is a complex procedure that requires soldering skills and working with pressure.
Symptoms of a blockage are often accompanied by overheating of the compressor and the absence of the characteristic gurgling of freon in the tubes (if you put your ear to the back wall). In some cases, the filter drier may become covered with frost or, conversely, become hot, which is an indirect sign of a flow problem. If you notice that the refrigerator is humming for hours without turning off, and the temperature inside does not drop, the likelihood of a blockage is very high.
Freon leakage: finding and eliminating leaks
The second most common reason is refrigerant leakage. Freon circulates in a closed loop, and ideally its amount should not change for years. However, in reality, the metal is susceptible to corrosion, and connections (especially at the manufacturer or after previous repairs) may lose their tightness. If there is little gas in the system, there is not enough gas for the entire volume of the evaporator. Since the freezer compartment is usually located closer to the outlet of the compressor or has priority in cooling, it continues to freeze, and the cold simply does not reach the refrigerator compartment.
Leaks in refrigerators Atlant often occur in the following places:
- 🔹 In the foamed part of the case (internal circuit), which is the most difficult case for repair.
- 🔹 In the condenser (black grille at the back), especially if it was subjected to mechanical stress during cleaning.
- 🔹 In places where tubes are soldered or around evaporator (evaporator), if there was corrosion.
- 🔹 In the door heating circuit (anti-condensation tube), which runs along the perimeter of the opening.
It is difficult to diagnose a leak visually, since freon is colorless and odorless. The technician uses a leak detector or nitrogen pressure testing method. If a leak is confirmed in the foam portion (inside the housing), repair may not be economically feasible as it requires opening the housing or installing an external evaporator. In the event of a leak in an accessible place (condenser), the repair is successful: the fistula location is located, the system is sealed, the system is evacuated and new gas is refilled.
Is it possible to refill a refrigerator with freon yourself?
Self-refueling is highly not recommended. In addition to the presence of freon, special oil for the compressor is required, exact knowledge of the dosage (in grams) and, most importantly, high-quality evacuation of the system. Remaining moisture or air in the system will lead to the formation of an ice plug and failure of the compressor within several months.
Failures of the thermostat and temperature sensors
Electronics and control mechanics also play a key role. If thermostat (the thermostat) is faulty, it may not signal the compressor to turn on when the temperature in the refrigerator compartment has risen, or, conversely, may not turn it off. In models Atlant with electronic control, temperature sensors (thermistors) are responsible for this. If the sensor in the refrigerator compartment “lies” and shows that it is cold there (for example, -5°C, when in fact +15°C), the control module will not start the compressor or close the air supply damper.
Often the problem lies in oxidation of the contacts or a break in the wiring going to the sensor. In this case, the system sees an open circuit and goes into emergency mode or simply ignores the readings. You can check a mechanical thermostat by temporarily closing its contacts (if you are confident in your electrician skills). If after this the refrigerator starts working and starts freezing, it means the regulator needs to be replaced. In electronic models, it is necessary to test the sensor with a multimeter and compare its resistance with tabular data for a specific temperature.
It is also worth mentioning the air supply damper in the systems No Frost. If the damper motor is stuck in the closed position, cold air from the freezer cannot physically enter the refrigerator compartment. This is a common breakdown that can be solved by replacing the damper drive or the damper itself if it has become deformed from ice.
Problems with the compressor and start relay
Although the compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator, its complete stop usually leads to defrosting of both chambers. However, there are situations when compressor works ineffectively. For example, when the life of a piston group is exhausted, it may create insufficient pressure to circulate freon throughout the entire circuit. In this case, the pressure is only enough for the first section (freezer), and the gas does not reach the refrigerator in the required volume and condition.
Another option is a malfunction starting relay. If the relay is “burnt” or stuck, the compressor may not start at all or may start for a split second and immediately stall with a characteristic click. In some cases, the relay may pass current but not operate correctly, causing the motor windings to overheat. You can check the relay by shaking it near your ear: if you hear a ringing sound (as if from broken glass inside), it means that the ceramic core is broken and the relay needs to be replaced.
The table below will help systematize the symptoms and probable causes:
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation |
|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the refrigerator is warm, the compressor is hot | Clogged capillary tube | Works continuously |
| Both chambers are warm, the compressor is cold | Freon leak | Works continuously or rarely turns on |
| The refrigerator does not turn on, there is light | Fault thermostat/relay | Does not work |
| Clicking, humming and shutting off | Faulty start relay or compressor | Trying to start |
Mode influence defrosting and the human factor
Before sounding the alarm and calling a specialist, it is worth excluding trivial reasons. Often, users themselves create conditions under which the refrigerator cannot cope with cooling. For example, if you forget to close the door of the refrigerator compartment tightly or the rubber seal on the door is worn out and does not fit, warm air constantly flows inside. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat, but its power is not enough, and as a result, it is warm in the main chamber, and the freezer is wearing out.
It is also important to check the operating mode. If the refrigerator Atlant has the “Super Freeze” mode (if it applies to the entire circuit) or is simply set to the minimum temperature, this can lead to freezing of the air supply ducts. In systems No Frost ice can completely block the channels, and cold will stop flowing into the refrigerator compartment, remaining in the freezer.
Check the following points:
- 🔸 Is the refrigerator too close to the wall or radiator (the heat exchange of the condenser is disrupted).
- 🔸 Is the chamber loaded with products to capacity, blocking the ventilation holes.
- 🔸 Is there a hot pan in the chamber, which could throw off the sensor settings.
- 🔸 Is the rubber cuff intact? the perimeter of the door (check with a sheet of paper).
☑️ Diagnostics before calling a technician
When you need to call a professional technician
Do-it-yourself refrigerator repair Atlant possible only at the level of replacing the thermostat, start relay or door seal. All manipulations related to the refrigeration circuit (replacing the compressor, eliminating leaks, cleaning the capillary, refilling with freon) require a professional tool: a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station, a leak detector, a burner and skills in soldering copper pipes.
An attempt to “save” on calling a technician in difficult situations breakdowns often lead to higher repair costs in the future. For example, if, during a leak, the system is not properly evacuated, the remaining moisture will turn into ice inside the capillary in a couple of weeks, and the repair will have to be repeated, but with the replacement of the compressor that burned out from working in a vacuum. Therefore, if you have diagnosed a leak or blockage, it is better to immediately contact a specialized service.
⚠️ Attention: Working with refrigerants requires a license and compliance with safety regulations. Some types of freon can form toxic compounds when in contact with an open burner flame. Entrust refilling only to certified specialists.
When contacting the service, be sure to specify the model of your refrigerator Atlant (indicated on the nameplate inside the chamber). This will help the technician prepare in advance the necessary spare parts, such as a filter drier of a specific modification or a thermostat with the required capillary length. It is also worth inquiring about the guarantee for the work performed - a good master always gives a guarantee for the replacement of components and the tightness of the system.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to defrost the Atlant refrigerator before diagnostics?
For complete and high-quality defrosting, especially if there is a suspicion of an ice plug in the system No Frost or channels, it is recommended to disconnect the refrigerator from the network for at least 12 hours, and preferably for a day. The doors must be open. Defrosting for less than 4-5 hours may not eliminate the problem completely, and the diagnosis will be incorrect.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the freezer freezes but the refrigerator does not?
For a short time - it is possible if you remove perishable foods from the refrigerator compartment. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which works without rest, trying to reach the set temperature. This leads to overheating of the windings and can provoke the final failure of the motor.
Why did the refrigerator work after defrosting, but after a week stopped freezing again?
This is a classic sign of a clogged capillary tube or the presence of moisture in the system. During defrosting, the ice plug melts and the system temporarily starts working. But since the circulation is disrupted or there is water in the system that freezes again at the narrowest point (capillary), the problem returns. The system needs to be purged with nitrogen and the filter-drier replaced.
Replacing a compressor with Atlant - is it difficult?
Yes, this is a complex operation. It requires not only mechanical replacement of the motor, but also soldering of tubes, evacuation of the system for 30-40 minutes and accurate charging of freon by weight. Without pressure gauges and a pump, it is impossible to do this work efficiently.