The situation when there is an ice crust in the freezer, and food in the main compartment begins to deteriorate, causes panic in any refrigerator owner Samsung. This is a classic symptom indicating poor refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system. Often, users mistakenly believe that the equipment is completely out of order, but in most cases the problem lies in a specific unit that needs to be restored.
Many models of the Korean brand are equipped with a system No Frost, which makes their design more complex compared to classic “crying” refrigerators. If one chamber works and the other does not, this means that the compressor is functioning, but the cold is not distributed evenly. Understanding the principle of operation of the system will help you quickly determine whether an urgent call to a technician is required or the problem can be fixed on your own.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons for such a temperature imbalance, ranging from a banal blockage to a refrigerant leak. It is important not to ignore the first signs of a malfunction, since long-term storage of products at elevated temperatures can lead to their spoilage, and the operation of equipment in emergency mode can lead to expensive compressor repairs.
Problems with the No Frost defrosting system
The most likely reason why the freezer freezes, but the refrigerator does not cool, lies in a malfunction of the defrost system. In refrigerators Samsung with technology No Frost the evaporator on which frost freezes is usually located in the wall of the freezer. The fan drives cold air from the freezer into the refrigeration compartment through special channels.
If the defrosting system (heating element, thermostat or timer) fails, the evaporator becomes coated with an ice coat. This ice blocks the air passages. As a result, the fan hums, the freezer continues to freeze (since the evaporator is there), but cold air simply cannot get into the upper chamber. Over time, ice can block the fan itself, which will lead to a loud noise.
How to check the defrost system?
To check, you need to defrost the refrigerator for 10-12 hours. If, after switching on, cold appeared in both chambers, but after 1-2 weeks the situation repeated itself, the problem is definitely in the defrost sensors or heating element.
Diagnostics of this malfunction requires checking the integrity of the heating element and sensors. It often fails defrost thermostat, which stops giving the command to turn on the heating element to melt the ice. The heating element itself may also burn out, and then the ice on the evaporator will accumulate endlessly.
Refrigerant leakage and problems with the compressor
The second most common reason is a partial leak of freon. The refrigerant circulates through the tubes: first it passes through the freezer, where it gives off the strongest cold, and then enters the main compartment. If a microcrack has formed in the system and the amount of gas has decreased, it is only enough to cool the first section of the circuit - the freezer.
In the refrigerator compartment at this time the temperature can remain at 15-20 degrees, which is critical for food. When there is a leak, the compressor often works non-stop, trying to compensate for the lack of cold, but cannot achieve the required performance. This leads to overheating of the motor and increased energy consumption.
⚠️ Attention: If you find oily spots under the refrigerator or hear a hissing sound during operation, this may indicate damage to the circuit. Do not try to fix the leak yourself - the system must be evacuated and professionally refilled.
It is also worth considering the option of failure itself compressor. In two-compressor models Samsung a separate motor is responsible for each chamber. If one of them burns out, the corresponding chamber will stop cooling. In single-compressor models, the problem may be in valves that do not switch the refrigerant flows correctly.
Faulty air circulation fan
The key element of cold distribution in systems No Frost is the fan. It is he who pumps cooled air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment. If the fan stops, circulation stops. The cold remains below, in the freezer, and it becomes warm in the upper compartment.
The reasons for the fan stopping can be different:
- ❄️ Freezing of the blades: ice blocks rotation, the motor hums, but does not spin.
- 🔌 Broken wiring: broken wires, going to the fan motor.
- 🔩 Bearing wear: the bushings dry out, play appears, and the fan jams.
- ⚡ Winding combustion: electrical malfunction of the motor itself.
You can check the operation of the fan by opening the refrigerator door (in some models) or by removing the back panel of the freezer. When the door is open, a sensor should be triggered that turns off the fan, but if when the door is closed you do not hear the characteristic airflow noise, the part may be faulty.
☑️ Fan diagnostics
Clogged capillary system or filter drier
Inside the refrigeration circuit A filter drier is installed that cleans freon from moisture and debris. Over time, especially if there was moisture in the system or poor repairs were made, this filter may become clogged. This creates resistance to the flow of refrigerant.
If there is a partial blockage, freon passes through with difficulty. The pressure at the inlet to the evaporator drops, and the refrigerant has time to completely evaporate and cool only the first section of the circuit (freezer chamber). The gas reaches the refrigerator compartment either warm or not at all. This condition is often accompanied by whistling or gurgling sounds.
Another reason may be ice jam in the capillary tube. It is formed due to moisture entering the system, which freezes in the narrowest place. It is typical that with such a problem, the refrigerator may periodically begin to freeze normally after a long defrost (for a day), and then stop again.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Solution method |
|---|---|---|
| Ice only at the entrance to the evaporator | Clogged capillary tube | Purge with nitrogen, replace the filter |
| Frost over the entire surface | Lack of freon | Search for leaks, refueling |
| The fan hums, but does not spin | Freezing or wedge | Defrost, replacing the fan |
| The compressor is hot, cold no | Loss of performance | Replacement of the compressor |
Failures in the electronic control module
Modern refrigerators Samsung are controlled by complex electronics. The control board receives signals from temperature sensors and decides when to turn on the compressor or fan. If the “brains” of the refrigerator are faulty, it may not see that it is warm in the refrigerator compartment and may not issue a command to cool.
A frequent problem is the oxidation of the contacts of the cables going from the board to the sensors or actuators. Moisture condensing inside the case may get onto the connectors. It is also possible that the temperature sensor temperature sensor in the refrigeration chamber fails: if it shows a false low temperature, the control module will not turn on the cooling.
Diagnostics of the control module requires professional equipment. The wizard connects the tester and reads error codes, which may not be displayed on the display, but are stored in the device’s memory. Replacing the board yourself is possible, but requires precise selection of the model for the specific serial number of the refrigerator.
Violation of seal tightness and operating rules
Sometimes the reason lies not in technology, but in violation of operating rules. If the refrigerator door does not close tightly due to dirty or damaged sealwarm air constantly flows inside. The cooling system cannot cope with the heat influx, although the freezer, which is opened less often, continues to maintain the temperature.
Check the sealing rubber around the entire perimeter. There should be no cracks, creases or adhering dirt on it. Also make sure that the refrigerator is level and the doors are not warped. Overloading with food that blocks air outlets can also interfere with circulation.
⚠️ Attention: Do not install the refrigerator close to a wall. The rear grille ventilation gap must be at least 10 cm, otherwise the compressor will overheat and will not be able to effectively cool both chambers.
Remember that placing hot food or storing large amounts of uncovered liquid will increase humidity and stress on the system. Under such conditions, even a working refrigerator may temporarily stop cooling the upper chamber until it reaches operating mode.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to defrost a Samsung refrigerator to remove the ice plug?
To completely melt the ice in the No Frost system, especially if the channels are clogged, it takes from 10 to 24 hours. The minimum time that experts recommend is 12 hours with the doors open. It is strictly prohibited to speed up the process with a hairdryer or hot water, as this can damage the plastic parts and evaporator tubes.
Is it possible to continue using the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not cool?
For a short time - yes, if the freezer is working. However, the compressor will work non-stop, trying to gain temperature, which will lead to overheating and accelerated wear. In addition, food in the refrigerator compartment will quickly spoil. It is better to turn off the device until the reasons are found out.
Why did the refrigerator work after defrosting, but a week later it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system (the heating element or sensor burned out). Defrosting removed the ice plug, and the cold entered the chamber again. But since the cause of freezing has not been eliminated, the ice grows again and after 5-10 days blocks the channels. Replacement of parts of the defrost system is required.
How to understand that a freon leak occurred in the foamed part?
If the leak is in an accessible circuit (condenser), the technician will see oil or hear a hissing sound. If the circuit is foamed into the walls of the case, there may be no external signs. An indirect sign - the refrigerator runs for days without turning off, but the temperature does not drop, and there is no characteristic heating on the rear grille (heat exchanger).
Is it necessary to change the filter drier during any repair of the cooling system?
Yes, this is a mandatory rule. Whenever the circuit is opened (replacing a compressor, eliminating a leak, cleaning a capillary), the filter drier must be replaced. It is disposable and cannot be restored. Reusing the old filter will lead to rapid failure of the new compressor.