The situation when freezer compartment freezes food properly, and in the main compartment of the Atlant refrigerator the temperature rises to room temperature, which is one of the most common problems. Owners often encounter this after several years of operation, and there is no need to panic ahead of time. This is a classic symptom indicating poor refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system.
In two-compressor models, this problem is less common, since a separate motor is responsible for each circuit. However, in more popular single-compressor systems, where the cold is distributed across both chambers, a malfunction can be caused by a number of factors. From simple icing of the evaporator to a complex freon leak in the foamed part of the housing.
Before calling a technician or disassembling the unit, it is necessary to carry out an initial diagnosis. Often the cause is not equipment failure, but improper operation or malfunction of the thermostat. Understanding the operating principle of your model Atlant will help you quickly localize the problem and save a significant amount on repairs.
The operating principle of Atlant single-compressor refrigerators
To understand why the main compartment stopped cooling, you need to understand the physics of the process. Most Atlant models use a circuit where the refrigerant first passes through the evaporator freezer compartment, cooling it to low temperatures. After this, the gas enters the evaporator of the refrigeration compartment, where it releases the remaining cold.
No Frost System or drip defrosting requires precise operation of the defrost timer and heating element. If one of the elements of this chain fails, ice begins to block the air channels. The cold simply cannot physically enter the upper chamber, remaining “locked” below.
It is important to note that the compressor can work continuously, trying to gain a temperature that the sensors do not record due to blocked flows. This leads to increased energy consumption and motor wear. That is why the problem cannot be ignored, even if the freezer is still coping with its tasks.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear that the compressor is running non-stop and it is warm in the refrigerator compartment, immediately unplug the appliance. Long-term operation in this mode can lead to combustion of the motor windings.
The design features of the models of the series MXM or KHX imply a different arrangement of evaporators. In some cases it is an open coil on the back wall, in others it is a hidden system inside the housing. Understanding the type of your system will help in further diagnostics.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the first reasons why the Atlant refrigerator stops cooling in the upper compartment is the failure of thermostat or the electronic sensor. This element is responsible for monitoring the temperature inside the chamber and sends a signal to the compressor to turn on or off.
If the thermostat is “stuck” in the “off” position or transmits incorrect data to the control board, the compressor may not start at all or work too little. As a result, the freezer, which has greater inertia, still keeps the cold, but the refrigerator compartment is already warm.
In electronic models with a display, an error code often appears indicating a sensor malfunction. However, mechanical thermostats do not provide such hints. You can check them with a multimeter by ringing the contacts when the temperature of the sensitive element changes.
How to check a thermostat with a multimeter?
To check, remove the thermostat, lower its sensitive tube into cold water with ice. Ring the contacts: when cooled, they should open (or close, depending on the type), making a click. If there is no resistance or it does not change, the part is faulty.
Replacing the thermostat is a relatively simple procedure, but requires precision. It is necessary to select an analogue with identical characteristics, otherwise the refrigerator’s operating cycle will be disrupted. An incorrectly selected sensor can lead to constant freezing of products or, conversely, their spoilage.
Problems with the defrosting system and freezing of the evaporator
The most common reason for the lack of cold in the upper chamber when the freezer is running is a banal problem icing evaporator or air channels. This is typical for systems No Frost and “Crying Evaporator”. An ice plug blocks the circulation of cold air.
The defrosting system consists of a timer, a heater (heating element) and a thermal fuse. If any of these elements burn, the ice stops melting and gradually accumulates. Sooner or later, it blocks the path to freon or the fan, and the cold stops flowing into the main compartment.
You can diagnose the problem visually by removing the back panel in the freezer. If you see a thick layer of ice or snow on the evaporator, the defrost cycle is broken. In this case, complete defrosting of the refrigerator is required within 24 hours.
☑️ Actions for complete defrosting
After defrosting, the refrigerator may work normally for a while, but if the reason is a burnt heating element, the problem will return in 1-2 weeks. Therefore, after defrosting, carefully monitor the formation of new ice.
Refrigerant leakage and problems with the compressor
If defrosting did not help, and the thermostat is working, there is a high probability freon leaks. In Atlant refrigerators, microcracks often appear in the foamed part of the body or in the door heating circuit. Freon evaporates, and its quantity is only enough to cool the first circuit (freezer).
When there is a leak, the compressor works almost non-stop, trying to compensate for the lack of refrigerant. It gets very hot, hums, but does not give off cold. It is impossible to determine a leak by ear; the use of a leak detector or a soap solution is required (although the latter method is effective only for visible damage).
The table below shows the main symptoms that help distinguish a leak from other faults:
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation |
|---|---|---|
| The refrigerator does not freeze, the motor is hot | Freon leakage | Works continuously |
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm | Capillary clogged / Leakage | Works with overload |
| On and off immediately | Faulty start relay | Short cycles with clicks |
| The temperature fluctuates, but there is cold | The thermostat is faulty | Rare or frequent switching on |
Fixing a leak is a complex process that requires professional equipment. The technician must find the location of the damage, solder it, evacuate the system and fill in new freon. It is impossible to perform these operations independently without experience and tools.
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical reason why the freezer works, but the refrigerator does not - clogging capillary tube. In the freon circulation system, this is the narrowest section where the refrigerant changes from a liquid to a gaseous state.
Clogging can be caused by moisture entering the system (an ice plug is formed) or oxidation products of oil and metal. The symptoms are very similar to a leak: the compressor is humming, the condenser is hot, but there is no cold in the chambers or it is weak.
Only a master can distinguish a blockage from a leak by the nature of the compressor operation and the temperature of various sections of the circuit. To clear the blockage, it is often necessary to flush the system with nitrogen or replace the filter-drier, which can only be done at a service center.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to open the tubes or pierce the system yourself to “add” freon. This will lead to the entry of moisture and air, which will completely damage the compressor.
Sometimes “pushing” the system with pressure helps, but this is a temporary measure. If there is dirt or moisture in the system, the blockage will reoccur. In such cases, a decision is often made to replace the compressor with a more powerful one or overcook the evaporator.
Fan and damper malfunctions (for No Frost)
In Atlant models with the system No Frost the fan is responsible for the distribution of cold. If its blades are frozen or the motor is burned out, cold air remains in the freezer and does not enter the refrigerator compartment.
It is also worth checking the air damper. This is a mechanical or electrical valve that regulates the amount of cold air coming from the freezer. If the damper is stuck in the closed position, the upper chamber will remain warm.
You can check the operation of the fan by opening the freezer door (in many models it turns off when opened, but not in all) or by listening to the noise of operation. The absence of a characteristic airflow hum when the compressor is running is a signal to check the fan.
Replacing the fan is usually not difficult. It is enough to remove the plastic panel in the freezer, unscrew the old motor and install the new one. The main thing is to make sure that the new part is suitable in size and connection connector.
Frequently asked questions about repairing Atlant refrigerators
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not work?
For a short time - yes, if you put perishable foods in the freezer. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which will wear out. In addition, bacteria will quickly develop in a warm chamber.
How much does a repair cost if you need to replace a compressor?
The cost consists of the price of a new unit, the work of a technician and refilling with freon. In modern conditions, this often amounts to more than 50% of the cost of a new refrigerator, so sometimes it is more advisable to buy new equipment.
Why did the refrigerator work after defrosting, but after a week it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system (the heating element or timer burned out). Defrosting removed the ice plug temporarily, but since the ice is not removed automatically, it builds up again and blocks the channels.
How often do you need to defrost the Atlant refrigerator?
Models with a drip system require defrosting 1-2 times a year. The systems No Frost do not need defrosting, but preventive shutdown for a day every 2-3 years will extend the life of the equipment.
What to do if there is a burning smell in the refrigerator?
Immediately unplug the device! A burning smell may indicate overheated wiring, melted insulation, or a faulty compressor start relay. The operation of such a device is a fire hazard.