The situation when food is cooled in the main section of the refrigerator, and a puddle forms or ice melts in the freezer, is one of the most common and frightening for owners of household appliances. Temperature violation in the freezer it often happens suddenly, making you think about urgently defrosting the entire stock of food. However, there is no need to panic, since modern units are designed quite reliably, and often the problem lies in blocking the heat removal system.
It is important to understand that the refrigeration and freezer chambers, despite the common cooling system, have their own operating and control features. If compressor it hums, but there is no cold, this may indicate a refrigerant leak or a broken thermostat. In cases where the motor does not turn on at all, there may be an electrical malfunction or a malfunction in the electronic control module.
In this article we will examine in detail the main reasons why freezer compartment stopped performing its functions while the upper compartment is still relatively cold. We will consider both simple malfunctions that can be fixed independently, and complex breakdowns that require the intervention of a professional technician with diagnostic equipment.
Problems with the door seal and tightness
One of the most commonplace, but often ignored reasons that the freezer stops freezing, there is a violation of the seal of the chamber. If warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber through a loose door, the cooling system cannot cope with the removal of excess heat. As a result, a “coat” of ice forms on the walls, which over time blocks air circulation, and the temperature inside begins to rise.
Pay attention to the condition rubber seal. Over time, the rubber dries out, cracks, or simply becomes contaminated with grease and crumbs, which is why it no longer fits tightly to the body. It is also worth checking the door hinges: if they are loose, the door may warp, leaving gaps in the upper or lower part, where warm air can freely enter.
To check the tightness, you can use a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet between the door and the body in different places around the perimeter. If the paper comes out without effort, it means that the seal is broken in that area. In this case, the seal must be thoroughly washed or replaced with a new one.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the refrigerator door does not close completely due to distortion, do not try to forcefully slam it. This may damage the fasteners or the seal itself. Adjusting the hinges requires care and a suitable tool.
☑️ Checking the tightness of the chamber
Faults of the No Frost and defrost system
In refrigerators with the system No Frost or Frost Free the problem often lies in the failure of the automatic defrosting cycle. The evaporator, located behind the rear wall of the freezer, becomes covered with frost during operation. Periodically, this frost must thaw thanks to the heating element - Defrost heating element. If the heating element is burnt out, the ice does not melt, but accumulates, turning into a block.
When there is too much ice, it blocks the channels through which cold air should enter the chamber. As a result, the fan circulates air inside the evaporator, but the cold does not enter the freezer itself. The main compartment can still maintain the temperature for some time due to inertia or residual cold, but the freezer will quickly “defrost.”
In addition to the heating element, a timer (or electronic module), a defrost sensor and an evaporator temperature sensor are involved in the defrost chain. Failure of any of these elements results in the fact that the command to turn on the heating is not received, or, conversely, the heating does not turn off on time. Diagnostics of these components requires a multimeter a multimeter for continuity.
How to understand that the problem is in the defrosting system?
If you defrosted the refrigerator completely (for 24 hours without turning it on), and it started to freeze, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returned - this is almost guaranteed to be a malfunction of the heating element, timer or defrost sensor. Ice will block the air channels again.
Refrigerant (freon) leak
A situation where the compressor works almost without interruption, trying to gain temperature, but the freezer remains warm, often indicates a leak. refrigerant. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack forms in the tubes (often due to corrosion or mechanical damage), the gas gradually evaporates.
If there is a partial leak, the freezer circuit first stops filling, since it is located further along the path of freon from the compressor. The refrigerator compartment may still remain slightly cold, but deep freezing does not occur. It is difficult to determine a leak visually; it is often accompanied by swelling of the rear wall inside the chamber or the appearance of yellow rust spots on the outside.
Filling a refrigerator with freon is not just “topping up” gas. The technician must find the leak, seal it, evacuate the system to remove moisture, and only then charge the exact amount of refrigerant specified in the technical specifications of the model. It is impossible to perform this operation on your own.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor hums, but does not freeze | Freon leak or blockage capillary | Call a technician for diagnostics |
| Ice on only one wall | Partial leak or uneven circulation | Checking the defrost system |
| The refrigerator turns on rarely | Thermostat or sensor is faulty | Replacing the temperature sensor |
| A gurgling sound is heard | Normal circulation or airing | Observation or diagnostics |
Failure of the compressor or start relay
Compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. If it fails, the refrigerant circulation stops completely. However, it happens that the compressor tries to start, makes a clicking or humming noise, but immediately turns off. This is a classic sign of a faulty starting relay or motor winding.
The starting relay is responsible for supplying a starting pulse to the compressor winding. If it burns out, the motor cannot switch from rest mode to operating mode. In some cases, the relay can be replaced independently by selecting an analogue according to the marking, but if the problem is in the compressor itself (interturn short circuit, jamming of the pistons), an expensive replacement of the unit will be required.
It is also worth checking the capacitor if it is in the start circuit. Bloating of the casing or loss of capacity causes the compressor to hum but not start. Long-term operation in this mode can completely “kill” the motor-compressor due to overheating of the windings.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell burning or see that the rear grill of the refrigerator (condenser) is red-hot, immediately unplug the device. Operation in this condition can lead to a fire.
Malfunction of the thermostat or temperature sensor
Responsible for maintaining the set temperature is thermostat (in mechanical models) or electronic sensor (in models with a display). If this element “lies” and shows the control module that the chamber is already cold enough, the compressor simply will not turn on.
In mechanical refrigerators, the thermostat is a tube with gas that is inserted into the evaporator. When the gas expands or contracts, the contacts close or open. Over time, the mechanism wears out and the contacts stop closing even when the temperature rises. In electronic models, sensors (thermistors) change their resistance, and if the circuit is broken, the system goes into emergency mode.
Diagnostics of the thermostat is simple: you need to close the contacts with wires (after turning off the refrigerator!). If, after being plugged in, the compressor starts working and cold appears, then the thermostat is faulty and requires replacement. This is one of the simplest and most inexpensive breakdowns.
Clogged capillary tube
The capillary tube is a thin copper pipeline in which throttling (a sharp decrease in pressure) of liquid freon occurs before it enters the evaporator. The diameter of the tube is very small, so it is sensitive to contamination. ice plug (due to moisture) or blockage from oxidation products and oil may form in the system.
When clogged, freon cannot circulate in full. The compressor works, trying to push gas, a characteristic gurgling or whistling sound is heard, but there is no cold. Often, frost forms at the site of the blockage (usually at the inlet to the evaporator), while the rest of the tube remains warm.
Removing the blockage is a complex technical procedure. The technician may try to “push” the system with nitrogen under high pressure or replace the entire capillary tube. At home, without special tools (vacuum pump, pressure gauges, burner), this problem cannot be solved.
Failures in the electronic control module
In modern refrigerators, the entire process is controlled by an electronic unit. Voltage surges in the network, moisture or manufacturing defects can lead to burning of board elements. As a result, the module may not send a signal to turn on the compressor, fan or defrost heating element, even if these components themselves are working.
Often, an electronic malfunction is indicated by blinking indicators on the front panel or an error code on the display. You can decipher the code in the instructions for a specific model refrigerator. Sometimes a complete reset (reboot) helps, but if the problem is in the hardware, the board will need to be resoldered or replaced.
It is worth noting that control modules are sensitive to the quality of the power supply. If the voltage often jumps in your area, it is recommended to use a stabilizer or at least a surge protector to extend the life of the refrigerator electronics.
Why does the freezer work, but does not freeze down to -18 degrees?
Most often this indicates wear on the compressor (reduced performance), a small leak of freon or a leak in the seal. The system works, but its power is not enough to reach a deep minus. Also, the reason may be in the incorrectly set “Eco” or “Vacation” mode.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the freezer does not work?
For a short time - yes, if the main compartment cools. However, prolonged operation with a malfunction (especially if the compressor is running without stopping) will lead to its overheating and failure. In addition, food in the main compartment may deteriorate due to a violation of the overall temperature balance.
How much does repair cost if the freezer does not freeze?
The cost depends on the breakdown. Replacing a thermostat or heating element is inexpensive. Refilling with freon and finding leaks is in the middle price segment. Replacing a compressor or electronic module are the most expensive types of repairs, which are sometimes not economically feasible for older models.
How to quickly defrost a freezer before checking?
Do not use a hair dryer or knife to chip ice - this is dangerous. The best way is to turn off the refrigerator, open the doors and leave for 12-24 hours. Place towels to absorb water. Complete defrosting often helps to temporarily restore operation if the problem was an ice jam.