The situation when food in the freezer turns to stone, and the upper compartment intended for fresh food is stuffy, is familiar to many owners of household appliances. This is a classic symptom of poor refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system. Unlike a complete failure of the compressor, such a breakdown often takes you by surprise, since the equipment continues to hum, creating the illusion of normal operation.
The first thing to do when a problem is detected is to rule out trivial causes, such as a loosely closed door or overloading the chamber with warm products. However, if you are sure that you exploited refrigerator correctly, then the matter lies deeper. Most often, technical faults are to blame, requiring the intervention of a technician or careful self-diagnosis.
In this article we will analyze the main causes of temperature imbalance between chambers. You will learn how to distinguish a serious compressor breakdown from a simple blockage, why the condition of the seal is important and when it is necessary to call a specialist in repairing household appliances.
A circuit leak and a refrigerant leak
One of the most common reasons why freezer compartment continues to freeze, but The refrigerator compartment becomes warm, there is a partial leak of freon. In modern dual-circuit or No Frost systems, the compressor first pumps refrigerant through the freezer, and only the remaining cold goes to cool the upper chamber. If there is a slight leak, the pressure is only enough for the first circuit.
Visually detecting a leak without special equipment (leak detector) is almost impossible. However, there are indirect signs: the compressor may work almost non-stop, trying to reach the set temperature, and swelling or traces of oil may appear on the rear radiator grille.
If the system is completely devoid of freon, the compressor will idle, but there will be no cold anywhere. In the case when the freezer is working but the refrigerator is not, this is a sure sign that the pressure in the system has dropped below the critical threshold for the second cooling circuit.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice oily spots on the floor under the refrigerator or on the back wall, under no circumstances try to seal the tubes yourself without pumping out the residual gas This can cause the oil to ignite when it comes into contact with oxygen.
To fix this problem, you need to call a technician. He will carry out pressure testing with nitrogen, find the leak, seal it and fill the system with new freon in strict accordance with the technical data sheet of the model.
Clogged capillary tube: symptoms and consequences
The capillary tube is a thin copper pipeline that serves as a choke in the cooling system, creating the necessary pressure to evaporate freon. Over time, an ice plug from moisture or a blockage from oil oxidation products may form inside it. This phenomenon is often called “hydraulic hammer” in miniature.
When clogged, the refrigerant cannot circulate freely throughout the entire circuit. It accumulates in the condenser and the initial part of the evaporator (usually the freezer area), causing it to cool intensely. At the same time, freon simply does not reach the refrigerator compartment or enters in negligible quantities.
A characteristic sign of a blockage is cyclical operation: the refrigerator can freeze normally for some time, then stops, the compressor overheats and turns off via a thermal relay, after which the cycle repeats. To the touch, the condenser (rear grill) may be hot only at the beginning or, conversely, cold.
Cleaning the capillary tube is a complex procedure that requires the use of a hydraulic press and special solvents. At home, the method of purging with nitrogen under high pressure is often used, but this is a temporary measure if the blockage is caused by contamination of the system from the inside.
Malfunctions of the No Frost system and fan
In refrigerators with the system No Frost cold does not enter the upper chamber directly from the evaporator, but is forced by a fan through special air ducts. If the freezer works fine, but the refrigerator is warm, the problem may lie in poor air circulation.
Most often, the fan itself, located behind the back wall of the freezer, fails. If its blades are frozen in ice or the motor winding is burned out, cold air stops flowing into the upper compartment. In this case, the compressor can operate in normal mode, cooling only the area around the evaporator.
Another common reason is freezing of air ducts. This occurs when the defrost system is unable to remove moisture and ice blocks the air supply. This can be seen visually if you remove the back panel in the freezer: you will see a “fur coat” on the evaporator and a lack of air flow.
- ❄️ Check whether the fan is spinning when the door is open (on some models it turns off, on others it continues to work).
- 🔊 Listen for extraneous noise or humming, which may indicate jamming of the blades with ice.
- 🌬️ Inspect the air flow regulator damper: it may be stuck in the closed position.
Diagnostics often require completely defrosting the refrigerator within 24 hours. If, after turning it on, the problem disappeared for a couple of days and then returned, it means that one of the elements of the defrost system is faulty: the heating element, defrost sensor or timer.
Problems with the compressor: when there is not enough power
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. In two-compressor models, a separate unit is responsible for each chamber, and the breakdown of one of them explains the situation: one freezes, the other does not. However, in single-compressor models (the majority of them), the reason lies in the loss of performance.
Over time, mechanical wear of the piston group or valves leads to the fact that the compressor cannot create sufficient pressure to pump freon through the entire circuit. It works, hums, but its power is only enough to maintain a low temperature in the first evaporation point - the freezer.
Low performance can be diagnosed by the temperature of the compressor housing. If it works constantly and is barely warm (instead of hot), or, on the contrary, is red-hot to the point where you cannot touch it, these are signs of a malfunction. It is also worth checking the starting relay, which can “drain” the voltage.
Replacing a compressor is an expensive repair, which is often not economically feasible for older models of refrigerators. In such cases, it is easier to consider purchasing new equipment with a modern inverter motor.
Incorrect settings and human factor
Before sounding the alarm and looking for specialists, it is worth checking the settings. In modern models with electronic control, a malfunction of the controller or an accidental change in the settings by the user can lead to the described symptoms.
For example, if you accidentally activated the “Super Freeze” mode and forgot to turn it off, the refrigerator will work at maximum, freezing everything in the lower compartment, but due to excessive cold in the upper chamber, the temperature may not have time to drop to the desired values. It is also possible that the buttons on the control panel may become stuck.
Check the position of the temperature regulator. If it is set to minimum and the room is hot, the refrigerator will physically not cope with the heat flow. The optimal setting for most models is the middle position or 3-4°C in the main chamber.
☑️ Do-it-yourself primary diagnostics
Sometimes the problem is solved by simply resetting the settings to factory settings (Reset). To do this, you need to find the appropriate combination of buttons in the instructions for your model LG, Samsung or Bosch.
Diagnostic table: comparing symptoms and causes
To make it easier for you to navigate a possible breakdown, we have compiled a summary table. It will help narrow down the search for a problem before calling a technician.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, in The refrigerator is warm, the compressor is hot | Freon leak or capillary blockage | High | Call a technician, refill with freon |
| The sound of a running fan is heard, but there is no cold | Failure of the damper or freezing of the air duct | Medium | Defrosting, replacing the damper |
| The compressor hums, clicks and turns off | Fault starting relay or compressor | High | Replacement of the relay or compressor |
| There is cold, but weak, the compressor works without stopping | Compressor wear or leakage | High | Pressure diagnostics, unit replacement |
This table is for informational purposes only. An accurate diagnosis can only be made by a specialist using a pressure gauge manifold and a tester.
Prevention and proper care of equipment
To extend the life of your refrigerator and avoid situations where it stops cooling, it is important to follow the operating rules. Regular defrosting (even for the No Frost system at least once a year) helps prevent the formation of ice jams in hard-to-reach places.
Keep the condenser on the back wall clean. Dust, pet hair and fluff act as a heat insulator, causing the compressor to work overload. Cleaning with a vacuum cleaner or a soft brush once every six months will significantly reduce engine wear.
⚠️ Attention: Never use sharp objects (knives, screwdrivers) to chip ice. One careless movement can damage the evaporator, and the refrigerator will stop working forever due to an instantaneous leak of freon.
How to extend the life of the compressor?
Ensure a gap of at least 10 cm between the back wall of the refrigerator and the kitchen wall. This will ensure free air circulation and effective cooling of the condenser, reducing the load on the motor.
It is also important to check the integrity of the sealing rubber on the doors. If it is cracked or does not fit tightly, warm, moist air constantly enters the chamber, which leads to increased formation of ice and overload of the system.
When an urgent call to a technician is necessary
There are situations when self-repair is not only ineffective, but also dangerous. If you hear hissing (freon output), smell burning, or see sparking in the area of the compressor, immediately unplug the device.
Modern refrigerators are crammed with electronics. An attempt to “ring” the sensors without knowledge can lead to a short circuit of the control board. Repairing electronics requires special tools and circuits, which are available only in authorized service centers.
Remember that the warranty for many models is maintained only if serviced by official partners. By opening the seals yourself, you risk losing the right to free repairs.
If after defrosting for 24 hours the problem does not disappear, and the food in the upper chamber begins to deteriorate, do not waste time. The sooner a leak or breakdown is found, the cheaper the repair will be.
Why, after defrosting, did the refrigerator stop cooling again after a couple of days?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system. The ice grows again and blocks the channels. Most likely, the defrost heating element, temperature sensor or timer has burned out. The defective element needs to be replaced.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not work?
For a short time - yes, if you use it as a freezer. However, the compressor will work hard, trying to cool the entire volume, which will lead to its overheating and eventual breakdown. Long-term use in this mode is not recommended.
How long does it take to defrost the refrigerator to check?
It takes at least 24 hours for the ice in the hidden cavities and the evaporator to completely thaw. Defrosting for 2-3 hours is often not enough to remove the ice blockage in the air ducts.
Does the amount of food in the refrigerator affect cooling?
Yes. An empty refrigerator loses cold faster when the door is opened, while a refrigerator that is too full (especially if the vents are closed) prevents air circulation. The optimal fill rate is about 60-70%.
What to do if there is water in the refrigerator?
Water in the lower part of the refrigerator compartment or under the drawers most often indicates that the drainage hole for removing condensate is clogged with debris or ice. It needs to be carefully cleaned with a brush or soft wire.