Owners of Belarusian brand refrigeration equipment often encounter a situation when an excessive amount of ice or even a whole snow coat begins to accumulate inside the chamber, mainly on the back wall. For models Atlant, especially with a drip defrosting system, the formation of a thin ice crust during the freezing cycle is the norm, but abundant ice, which does not have time to drain into the drainage, signals a malfunction of the unit. Ignoring this problem can lead to increased energy consumption and compressor failure due to overloads.
The physics of the process is simple: moisture from the air condenses on the coldest surface, which in static models is precisely the back wall of the evaporator. In a working device, this ice melts during a pause in the compressor operation, and the water flows out through the groove. If you see that ice build-up it is becoming thicker and takes up useful volume, it means that the balance between the production of cold and its removal is upset. Understanding the exact cause will allow you to avoid an expensive call to a technician where you can handle it yourself.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of ice formation in refrigerators Atlant, consider the influence of external factors and internal breakdowns. You will learn how to distinguish normal operation from a critical malfunction, and what steps you need to take to diagnose. It is important to act consistently, checking simple settings before sinning with complex electronics or a refrigerant leak.
The principle of operation of a drip defrosting system
Most refrigerators Atlant are equipped with a so-called drip system, or Drop Cooling. In such units, the main evaporator is hidden behind the rear panel inside the chamber. When the compressor is running, the temperature of this panel drops significantly below zero, which is why moisture from food and air actively settles on it in the form of frost and ice. This is an absolutely natural process of cold accumulation.
As soon as the temperature inside reaches the set values, the thermostat gives the command to turn off the compressor. At this moment, the temperature of the back wall begins to rise, and the frozen ice melts, turning into water. Drops flow down the ribbed surface into a special groove, from where they go through a drainage hole into a container above the motor, where they evaporate. If this cycle is disrupted, the water does not have time to drain and freezes again, forming a massive crust.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the ice does not melt even after the refrigerator has been idle for a long time, the temperature in the chamber may not be high enough for defrosting, or the drainage hole is clogged with food debris or mold.
Key The element here is cycle time. Older models may have longer cycles, resulting in a thicker layer of ice before defrosting. However, if there is so much ice that it begins to interfere with closing the door or puts pressure on the food, this is already a deviation from the norm. The system should cope with moisture automatically, without human intervention, with the exception of rare cases of complete defrosting once every six months to a year. Atlant cycles may be longer, resulting in a thicker layer of ice before defrosting. However, if there is so much ice that it begins to interfere with closing the door or puts pressure on the food, this is already a deviation from the norm. The system should cope with moisture automatically, without human intervention, with the exception of rare cases of complete defrosting every six months or a year.
The influence of improper operation on icing
Before looking for breakdowns in the “inside” of the unit, it is worth analyzing exactly how you use the refrigerator. Often the reason is trivial and lies in the user’s actions. The most common mistake is setting the temperature too low. Many owners, wanting to freeze food thriftily, turn the thermostat knob to maximum. As a result, the compressor works almost non-stop, the wall does not have time to warm up for defrosting, and the ice freezes continuously.
The second critical factor is the tightness of the doorway. If sealing rubber band the door is worn out, dirty, or simply does not fit tightly due to misalignment, warm, moist air from the room constantly enters the chamber. This air instantly condenses on the back wall. This is especially noticeable in summer or in rooms with high humidity. Also, ice can actively grow if you put hot or just warm dishes in the chamber.
- ❄️ Frequent and prolonged opening of the door disrupts the temperature regime, causing the compressor to work for wear.
- 🥘 Heating food inside the chamber without a lid is a direct path to fast ice accumulation on the back wall.
- 🚪 A door that is not tightly closed (for example, due to a trapped package) leads to a constant influx of moisture.
Check the position of the temperature regulator. For the refrigerator compartment, the optimal value is considered to be in the range from +3 to +5 degrees Celsius. Setting the mode Super Freeze or maximum cooling for a long period is permissible only for quick freezing of large volumes of food, but not for continuous operation.
Faults of sensors and thermostat
If everything is in order with the operation, the problem may lie in the “brains” of the cold control. In refrigerators Atlant a thermostat (thermostat) or an electronic control module with sensors is responsible for maintaining the temperature. If the thermostat is stuck in the "on" position, the compressor will thresh without interruption. The back wall will freeze through, and the defrost cycle simply will not occur.
In more modern models with electronics, a separate defrost sensor (defrost timer or evaporator temperature sensor) is responsible for defrosting. Its task is to inform the controller when it needs to turn on the defrost heating element (if there is one) or simply stop cooling. If this sensor fails and shows a false temperature, the system “thinks” that there is no ice or it has not yet melted, and continues to freeze.
Diagnostics of these components requires a multimeter. It is necessary to “ring” the thermostat contacts at different temperatures. In mechanical thermostats, contacts often oxidize or the bellows lose sensitivity. In electronic systems, the sensor circuit may break. Replacing these elements usually solves the problem of endless ice freezing.
Symptoms of a malfunctioning thermostat
The refrigerator does not turn off at all, it works around the clock with a hum. The back wall is covered with a thick layer of ice, and the food in the main chamber can even freeze.
Problems with the drainage system
Sometimes ice freezes not because too much of it forms, but because it has nowhere to go. The drain hole located at the bottom of the back wall (often under the plastic groove) can become clogged. Crumbs, pieces of food, mold or mucus block the channel. Water from melting ice accumulates in the groove and freezes, forming an ice plug. The next portion of water freezes on top of it, and so on, until the entire bottom of the chamber turns into an ice ball.
To clean the channel, you cannot use sharp metal objects (knives, knitting needles), as you can damage the tube or pierce the chamber wall, which will lead to freon leakage. It is best to use the special brushes included in the kit, or soft wire with a limiter. It is effective to rinse the channel with warm water from a syringe or bulb.
☑️ Cleaning the drainage hole
If the water stays in the gutter and does not drain, this is a sure sign of a blockage. In some models Atlant the design of the groove involves a removable grille that can be easily removed and washed under the tap. Regular hygiene of this unit will prevent the formation of ice jams.
Refrigerant leakage and compressor operation
A more serious cause of icing is a violation of the tightness of the refrigerant circuit. If freon leaks (for example, due to corrosion of tubes or mechanical damage), the pressure in the system drops. The compressor tries to compensate for the lack of cold and runs longer than usual or constantly. At the same time, due to low pressure, the boiling point of freon shifts, and not only the evaporator inside, but also the sections of the pipeline approaching the chamber begin to freeze, which visually looks like ice on the back wall or even on the sides.
Often, when freon leaks, the ice freezes unevenly, and swelling of the back wall of the refrigerator (at the point of foaming) may be observed. At the same time, the compressor runs very hot and practically does not turn off. It is impossible to eliminate the leak and refill the refrigerator on your own - you need to call a specialist with equipment for vacuuming and refilling.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Ice only at the bottom of the back wall | Drain hole clogged | Clean the channel with warm water |
| Ice all over the wall, the compressor hums non-stop | The thermostat is faulty or freon is leaking | Check the thermostat, call technician |
| Ice and swelling of the rear panel | Freon leak in the foamed part | Urgent repair from a specialist |
| Thin crust of ice that melts | Normal operation drip system | No intervention required |
When professional repairs are required
There are a number of situations where independent attempts at repair can only do harm. If you have checked the thermostat, cleaned the drain, made sure the door is closed tightly, but ice continues to build up, the problem is deeper. This may be a malfunction of the start relay compressor, which prevents it from starting or stopping correctly, or problems with the control board.
It is also worth contacting a specialist if you notice oily spots under the refrigerator or on the pipes at the back - this is a sign of depressurization. Trying to “press” the thermostat or knock on the compressor in such cases is useless. Modern refrigerators Atlant are complex devices where the electronics are tightly connected to the mechanics.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to pick out the ice yourself with a knife or other sharp objects. Damage to the evaporator (even microscopic) will lead to immediate release of all refrigerant and expensive repairs with replacement of the foamed evaporator.
Regular maintenance, proper placement of food and timely defrosting (even for No Frost or drip systems once a year) will extend the life of your refrigerator. If the equipment begins to behave strangely, it is better to diagnose the problem at an early stage, before it turns into complete defrosting of all products.
Why ice freezes only in one corner of the back walls?
Local icing often indicates uneven distribution of the refrigerant or partial blockage in the circulation system, as well as the fact that the thermal insulation of the housing is damaged in this place. Perhaps a “cold bridge” has formed there.
Is it possible to speed up defrosting if a lot of ice is frozen?
Yes, you can put a container with warm (not hot!) water in the chamber. It is strictly forbidden to use a hairdryer or heating devices, since a sharp temperature change can damage the plastic and evaporator tubes.
Is it normal that after defrosting, ice appears again after 2 days?
If it is a thin crust that melts during the day and grows at night, this is normal for a drip system. If a thick layer grows and does not disappear, this is a malfunction (see sections about the thermostat and seal).