Detection of a thick layer of ice or “coat” on the back wall of the refrigerator Biryusa is a common problem faced by owners of drip defrosting system equipment. Unlike No Frost models, here the natural drainage of condensate is part of the operating cycle, but excessive icing signals a violation of the temperature balance or tightness. If you notice that products are frozen to the shelves, and the back panel has turned into a block of ice, you need to quickly identify the cause in order to avoid compressor failure or food spoilage.
Many users mistakenly believe that the presence of ice is the norm for old Soviet models or their modern analogues, however, in a working unit, the ice should completely melt during rest periods compressor. Cyclic defrosting is the key principle of operation, and if the water does not have time to evaporate or drain, the system fails. In this article, we will analyze in detail the technical and operational factors that influence the formation of ice, and will help you return your refrigerator to factory efficiency.
The principle of operation of the drip defrosting system
Refrigerators Biryusa, like most classic models, equipped with an evaporator located behind the rear wall inside the freezer or refrigerator compartment. During operation, the compressor pumps refrigerant, which, passing through the evaporator tubes, actively absorbs heat from the chamber. The moisture contained in the air condenses on the coldest surface - the back wall, turning into frost or drops of water.
When the temperature reaches the set value, the thermostat opens the circuit and the compressor turns off. At this moment, the back wall begins to heat up, and the accumulated layer of ice or frost melts. The resulting water flows down the gutter into the drainage hole and enters a special container above the compressor, where it safely evaporates. Violation of this cycle leads to the fact that the ice does not have time to melt before the next time the engine is turned on, increasing its mass every hour.
It is important to understand that a small “fur coat” a few millimeters thick is acceptable, but if the layer becomes dense and prevents the doors from closing or blocks the access of cold air, this is already a pathology. Often the problem lies not in a breakdown, but in improper operation or contamination of the drainage system, which we will talk about later.
Incorrect temperature setting and operation thermostat
One of the most common causes of excessive icing is the banal hypothermia of the chamber. If you set the temperature control to the maximum setting (usually indicated by the number 5, 6 or 7, or the word “Max”), the compressor runs almost non-stop. The back wall freezes through, and moisture from the air, falling on it, instantly crystallizes without having time to flow down.
In the summer, when the ambient temperature in the room is high, the load on the refrigerator Biryusa increases. Users often compensate for this by increasing cooling power, which is absolutely not allowed. The optimal mode for the main camera is considered to be a range from +2 to +4 degrees Celsius, which usually corresponds to the middle position of the regulator (3 or 4).
It is also worth checking the serviceability of the thermostat itself. If its contacts are stuck or the temperature sensor is faulty, the compressor may not receive a signal to stop. As a result, the refrigerator hums continuously, and a monolithic layer of ice forms inside. For diagnostics, you can try to forcibly disconnect the device from the network for several hours: if, after turning it on, it quickly becomes covered with ice again and does not turn off, the problem is probably in thermostat.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear frequent clicks of the thermostat, but the compressor does not start or, conversely, works without interruptions, this is a sure sign of a malfunction of the temperature sensor. Operation in this mode can lead to the motor burning out.
Problems with the tightness of the door seal
Extraneous warm air is the main enemy of any refrigerator. If the rubber seal (cuff) on the door has lost elasticity, is deformed, or is simply dirty, warm air from the room constantly penetrates into the chamber. The moisture contained in this air settles on the back wall and instantly freezes, since the temperature difference is large.
You can check the tightness with a simple “paper test”. Take a sheet of paper, clamp it around the perimeter of the refrigerator door and try to pull it out. If the sheet is removed easily, without resistance, it means that the seal does not fit tightly in this place. Pay special attention to the corners of the door and the bottom, where wear occurs most quickly.
Deformation of the seal often occurs due to:
- 🧼 Accumulation of grease and sticky deposits, which prevent the rubber from adhering tightly to the metal.
- 🔥 Exposure to hot objects or steam during cleaning, which leads to loss of rubber shape.
- 🕰️ Natural aging of the material (the service life of the seal is usually 7-10 years).
- 🚪 Improper installation of the door or skewed hinges, which causes the door to warp.
If the seal is simply dirty, it is enough to wash it warm water and soap and wipe dry. In case of loss of elasticity, you can try to restore the shape by heating the rubber with a hairdryer (carefully, without fanaticism) or soaking it in hot water. However, if the material is cracked, it will only help replacing the seal to a new, original or high-quality analog for your model Biryusa.
How to install a new seal correctly?
When installing a new one It is often recommended to keep the sealant in warm water (+50...+60°C) for about 15-20 minutes. This will make the rubber softer and more elastic, which will facilitate installation in the door grooves and ensure a better fit in the first days of operation.
Clogged drainage hole
At the bottom of the rear wall of the refrigerator compartment there is a drainage hole through which melt water goes into the tray. If this channel becomes clogged with crumbs, mold or pieces of ice, the water has nowhere to go. It accumulates at the bottom of the chamber, and during the next cooling cycle it freezes, gradually building up an “iceberg” that can rise up to the middle of the back wall.
To clean the drainage, you will need a soft wire (for example, copper), a bottle brush or a special flexible brush. You must act carefully so as not to pierce the thermal insulation layer or damage the evaporator tubes located inside the wall.
Algorithm for cleaning:
- Unplug the refrigerator and defrost it completely (at least 12-24 hours).
- Find the drainage hole at the bottom of the back panels.
- Carefully insert a soft wire or brush into the hole to a depth of 10-15 cm, making rotational movements.
- Rinse the channel with warm water using a syringe or syringe without a needle to wash away any remaining dirt.
☑️ Cleaning the drainage system
After the procedure, make sure that the water drains freely. For prevention, you can drop a little vegetable oil into the hole - it will create a slippery film that prevents dirt from sticking, but this must be done in very measured doses.
The influence of humidity and rules for loading products
Excessive humidity inside the chamber is another factor contributing to the formation of ice. This may be due to storing open containers of liquid, hot foods, or simply high humidity in the room where the refrigerator is located. It is also important to follow loading rules: if food is placed too tightly or touches the back wall, air circulation is disrupted.
If circulation is disrupted, cold air cannot be evenly distributed throughout the chamber volume. In areas of stagnation, more moisture is formed, and it settles on the nearest cold surface. In addition, if you put a pot of hot soup in the refrigerator, evaporation occurs instantly and in large volumes, which is guaranteed to lead to the formation of a thick fur coat on the wall.
Basic storage rules to minimize icing:
- 🍲 Always cover pots, bowls and containers containing liquid food with lids or film.
- 🥘 Cool hot foods to room temperature before putting them in the refrigerator.
- 🥦 Store vegetables and fruits in special boxes, not in bulk on shelves.
- ❄️ Leave a gap of 2-3 cm between the products and the back wall for free air circulation.
Technical malfunctions: refrigerant and compressor
If all of the above methods did not help, there is ice on the back wall Biryusa continues to increase, perhaps this is due to more serious technical problems. One of them is freon leak. If there is a shortage of refrigerant, the compressor is forced to work longer to reach the desired temperature, which leads to deep freezing of the evaporator.
Another problem is a malfunction of the compressor itself or the start relay. If the motor “jams” or works intermittently, the cooling cycle is disrupted. It is also worth mentioning the possibility of moisture entering the refrigerant circuit (usually after poor-quality repairs), which leads to the formation of an ice plug in the capillary tube.
The table below shows symptoms that help differentiate simple causes from complex breakdowns:
| Symptom | Probable reason | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| Ice only on the back wall, the compressor turns off | Clogged drainage, loose door, “Max” mode | Low (you can do it yourself) |
| Ice throughout the chamber, food is frozen | Thermostat malfunction, freon leak | Medium/High (needs a technician) |
| The compressor hums, but does not start or stalls immediately | Start relay, interturn short circuit | High (replacement of parts) |
| The refrigerator works without stopping, it’s warm inside | Refrigerant leak, capillary clogged | High (refilling required) |
⚠️ Attention: Independent repair of the refrigerant circulation system (replacing the filter, soldering pipes, refilling with freon) requires special equipment and a license. Trying to do this with your own hands without skills can be dangerous and permanently damage the equipment.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it normal that ice freezes only on the edges of the back wall?
This is quite a common phenomenon. Evaporator tubes often run along the edges of the back panel, so the temperature there is lower than in the center. If the layer of ice is thin and melts while the compressor is idle, there is no need to worry. If the ice is thick and does not melt, check the door seal, since warm air often leaks around the perimeter.
Is it possible to speed up defrosting by scraping the ice with a knife?
Absolutely not! Mechanical removal of ice with sharp objects (knife, screwdriver) carries a high risk of damaging the thin evaporator tubes hidden inside the plastic panel. Leaking freon and broken system tightness will lead to expensive repairs. Use only natural defrosting or a hairdryer (with caution and from a distance).
How often should you defrost the Biryusa refrigerator?
Although the drip defrosting system is automatic, it is recommended to completely defrost and wash the refrigerator 1-2 times a year. This will help keep the drainage hole clean, remove odors and check the condition of the seals, which will prevent the formation of excess ice in the future.
Why did ice appear again after a couple of days after defrosting?
If you defrosted the refrigerator, but did not eliminate the cause (for example, did not clean the drain, did not correct the seal, or left the mode at maximum), ice is inevitable is formed again. Analyze the operating conditions: perhaps the room is too hot or you put a lot of warm food in the chamber.