The discovery of a thick layer of ice or frost on the rear inner panel of the refrigerator Ariston often becomes an unpleasant surprise for the owner. This phenomenon not only reduces the useful volume of the chambers, but also signals a malfunction of the defrosting system or a violation of the tightness of the circuit. In modern models with a system No Frost or Frost Free the back wall should normally remain clean and dry, since the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic panel.
If you see ice directly on the back wall of the working chamber, this means that the moisture does not have time to evaporate or drain into the drain, freezing upon contact with cold elements. Ignoring this problem can lead to failure compressor due to increased load or damage to products. It is important for owners to understand the physical nature of the process in order to correctly determine the source of the malfunction.
There are several key factors that cause excessive freezing: from a simple violation of operating rules to complex failure of electronic components. Most often, the problem lies in the incorrect operation of the automatic defrosting system. Let's take a detailed look at the main causes and methods for eliminating them so that you can return your equipment Indesit or Ariston to factory performance.
Failure of the defrost system (Defrost)
The most common reason for the formation of a “fur coat” on the back wall is a malfunction of the defrost system. In refrigerators Ariston this process is regulated by a timer Evaporator heating element and a heat sensor. If at least one of these elements fails, the moisture condensing on the evaporator stops turning into water and flowing into the pan, but accumulates in the form of ice.
When the heating element stops heating, the ice crust gradually grows, blocking the air circulation channels. This leads to the fact that the cold is no longer evenly distributed throughout the chamber. As a result, food in the far corners may freeze, and the temperature in the chamber becomes higher than the set one, forcing the compressor to work without interruption.
⚠️ Attention: An attempt to break off the ice with a knife or other sharp objects can lead to breakdown of the evaporator and leakage of freon. Defrost the unit only naturally!
Diagnostics of the defrost system requires a multimeter to check the resistance of the heating element and the integrity of the circuits. Often the heating element itself burns out or the contacts on the terminals oxidize. It is also worth checking the fuse, which breaks the circuit when overheated, preventing a fire.
How to check the defrost heating element with a multimeter?
To check, you need to get to the evaporator (by removing the back panel in the freezer). Disconnect the wires from the heating element and switch the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (Ohm). A working heating element will show a value in the range from 200 to 800 Ohms. If the device shows “1” or “infinity”, the element has burned out and requires replacement.
Faults of the defrost sensor and thermostat
The defrosting process is monitored not only by the heater, but also defrost sensor (thermistor). This small component detects the temperature on the evaporator and gives a command to the control unit to turn on the heating element. If the sensor “lies” and shows that there is no ice, although it has already formed, the defrosting cycle simply will not start.
In older models Ariston the control function is performed by a mechanical thermostat. Its capillary tube is attached to the evaporator. Over time, the thermostat's sensitivity decreases or the tube moves, resulting in incorrect readings. As a result, the refrigerator operates in continuous cooling mode, causing intense freezing.
Symptoms of sensor malfunction are:
- ❄️ Ice appears on the back wall even when the chamber is fully loaded with food.
- 📉 The temperature in the refrigerator compartment drops below 0°C, freezing fresh vegetables.
- 🔌 The compressor works almost non-stop, consuming a lot of electricity.
Replacing the sensor is a simple procedure, but requires care when dismantling plastic panels. It is important to install a new element with similar resistance characteristics, otherwise the operating cycle will be disrupted again.
Problems with the drainage system
Water formed when ice melts during the defrost cycle, it should flow freely through the drainage hole into a special container above the compressor. If this path is open, water begins to accumulate at the bottom of the chamber and freeze, forming a puddle at the back wall, which gradually turns into an ice monolith.
The main enemy of drainage is blockage. Food crumbs, mold, slime, or pieces of packaging material may clog the narrow opening tightly. In this case, the water does not have time to leave and, in contact with cold air at the rear wall, crystallizes. Cleaning the drainage often solves the problem of freezing without calling a technician.
To service the drainage system, follow these steps:
- 💧 Find the drainage hole at the bottom of the back wall of the refrigerator.
- 🧹 Gently clean it with a special brush or soft wire wrapped with a rag.
- 🚿 Rinse the channel with warm water from a syringe or syringe without a needle.
Sometimes the drainage tube inside the case may freeze if the refrigerator is in an unheated room or the thermal insulation is damaged. In this case, complete defrosting of the unit is required for 10-12 hours to restore the patency of the channel.
☑️ Checking the drainage system
Violation of the tightness of the door seal
The constant flow of warm, moist air from the room is one of the main reasons for the formation of frost. A cuff around the perimeter of the door is responsible for sealing the chamber. If it is worn out, cracked or simply does not fit tightly, moisture enters the chamber, which instantly condenses on the coldest surface - the back wall. rubber seal (cuff) around the perimeter of the door. If it is worn, cracked, or simply does not fit tightly, moisture enters the chamber and instantly condenses on the coldest surface - the back wall.
You can check the tightness of the fit with a simple “paper test”. Take a sheet of paper, clamp it with the door and try to pull it out. If the paper comes out easily and without resistance in different places around the perimeter, then the seal requires adjustment or replacement.
Causes of leakage:
- 🚪 Warped door due to improper installation or loosening of hinges.
- 🧹 Contamination of the seal with grease or sticky substances food residues.
- 🕰️ Natural aging of rubber, loss of elasticity and the appearance of cracks.
If the seal is simply dirty, it is enough to wash it with warm soapy water. In case of deformation, you can try heating the rubber with a hairdryer and straightening it. However, if the material has lost its elasticity, only complete replacement of the cuff with an original or high-quality analogue will help.
Improper operation and loading of products
Often the cause of freezing lies not in the breakdown, but in the actions of the user. Violation of the rules for operating refrigerators Ariston leads to an imbalance of temperatures and humidity. For example, placing hot or warm foods in the chamber sharply increases the humidity, and the system does not have time to remove excess moisture.
It is also important to distribute food correctly. If food is placed close to the back wall, it disrupts the circulation of cold air. In areas of air stagnation, the temperature drops below normal, causing local freezing of the wall. There should be a gap of at least 2-3 cm between the food and the back panel.
⚠️ Attention: Do not place open containers with liquids in the refrigerator. The evaporation of water from pots and bowls sharply increases the humidity inside the chamber.
Frequent and prolonged opening of doors also contributes to the entry of humid air. If the house is hot and humid (for example, in summer), the load on the defrosting system increases many times over, which can lead to the temporary appearance of frost even on a working appliance.
Table: Symptoms and possible malfunctions
To quickly diagnose the problem, it is convenient to use the summary table. It will help to compare the visual signs of a malfunction with the probable cause of the breakdown.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| Ice only in the corner of the rear wall | Clog drainage hole | Low (you can do it yourself) |
| Solid ice crust ("fur coat") | Faulty heating element or defrost sensor | Medium (needs a multimeter) |
| Frost all over the wall and on the products | Leaking door or broken thermostat | Medium/High |
| Ice build-up at the outlet of the air ducts | Failure of the dampers or fan | High (disassembly required) |
Analyzing the table, you can see that most problems can be solved at home with a basic tool. However, if the symptoms indicate complex electronics or a refrigerant leak, it is better to contact a professional.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Can you continue to use the refrigerator if there is ice on the wall?
Short-term use is possible, but not advisable. A thick layer of ice impairs heat transfer, causing the compressor to wear out, which shortens its service life. In addition, ice can damage food or door shelves.
Why did the ice appear again after a couple of days after defrosting?
This is a sure sign that the cause has not been eliminated. Most likely, one of the elements of the defrost system (heating element, sensor, timer) has failed or the door seal has been broken. Defrosting is a temporary measure, not a solution to the problem.
Is it necessary to change the entire evaporator if it is covered in ice?
No, the evaporator itself (metal radiator) is changed only if there is mechanical damage or freon leakage. In most cases, it is enough to replace the defrost heater or sensor, and remove the ice by defrosting.
How long does it take to defrost an Ariston refrigerator?
To completely defrost the ice and restore the system, it is recommended to disconnect the device from the network for at least 12-24 hours. The doors must be open for air circulation.