The situation when two-chamber refrigerator brand Indesit stops maintaining cold in the main compartment, but continues to properly freeze food in the freezer camera, is classic for the technology of this brand. The owner often faces panic: the compressor seems to be humming, the light is on, but the milk in the upper chamber has already turned sour, and the vegetables have lost their turgor. This is not an accident, but the result of a specific design of the system No Frost or drip defrosting, typical for models Indesit.
The main reason lies in a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a failure in the cold air exhaust system. Unlike older single-chamber models, the cold is generated in one place (often in the freezer or behind the back wall) and then distributed throughout the volumes. If this process is disrupted, temperature conditions it gets lost selectively. Understanding the physics of the process will help you not to guess, but to consistently check the components of the unit.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical, electrical and technical causes of the malfunction. You will learn how to distinguish a simple blockage from a failure compressor, and in which cases you need to call a specialist, and when you can handle it yourself. Diagnostics begins with an analysis of the symptoms that preceded the breakdown.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the back wall of the main chamber is swollen or unevenly covered with a layer of ice, immediately disconnect the device from the power supply. Operation in this mode can lead to permanent failure of the cooling system.
Problems with the defrost system and ice
The most common reason why Indesit stops cooling in the upper compartment when the freezer is running is the “overgrowing” of the evaporator with ice. In No Frost or Low Frost systems, the ice formed on the evaporator must periodically thaw. If Defrost heating element burns out or the timer gets stuck, the ice coat becomes so thick that it blocks the air supply channels.
Cold air physically cannot penetrate into the main chamber, remaining blocked in the freezer compartment. Visually, this can manifest itself in the fact that the freezer is even too cold, but the refrigerator is warm. Users often notice that it has become more difficult to close the refrigerator door due to ice on the seal or bottom.
To test this hypothesis, it is necessary to carry out a complete defrost. This is not just “turn it off at night,” but leave the unit unplugged for at least 24 hours with the doors open. This is the only way the ice will have time to melt in hard-to-reach channels hidden behind plastic panels.
☑️ Actions during defrosting
If after a day of defrosting the refrigerator started working normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem recurred, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system is faulty. This could be a defrost sensor, which does not give a command to turn on the heating, or the heating element itself. In models defrost sensor, which does not give a command to turn on the heating, or the heating element itself. In models Indesit the fuse that protects the heating element from overheating often fails.
Compressor malfunctions and loss of freon
The second most common scenario is a refrigerant leak (freon) or a decrease in compressor performance. In dual-circuit systems or models with one compressor but separate flows, the leak often begins in the foam part of the housing or in the door perimeter heating circuit. If there is a partial leak, the freon pressure is only enough to cool a small volume of the freezer, and the refrigerant simply does not reach the main compartment.
The compressor in such cases works almost without stopping, trying to reach the set temperature. You can hear the constant hum of the engine. If at the same time the condenser grill on the back or sides remains cold (or is only partially heated by 10-15 cm from the compressor), this is a sure sign of a freon leak..
Why can’t you just add freon?
Simple refilling of freon without finding and eliminating the leak is temporary a measure that will not solve the problem. Freon will go away again in a few days or weeks. In addition, a vacuum could form in the system and moisture could enter, which requires professional evacuation and replacement of the filter-drier. Independent refueling “by eye” without a pressure gauge station is prohibited by technical regulations and is dangerous.
Another option is breakdown of itself compressor. The motor may hum, but not create the necessary pressure in the system. This often happens when the windings are shorted between turns or the mechanical part is jammed. In this case, the refrigerator Indesit can turn on, work for several minutes, then click and turn off the thermal relay, or work constantly, but not cool.
Clogged capillary tube
The third technical reason, which is less common, but quite most likely for equipment Indesit with a long service life is clogging of the capillary tube. There is a very narrow section in the refrigerant circulation system where the pressure drops sharply. If the system contains oil oxidation products, moisture or microscopic debris, this area becomes clogged.
If clogged, freon cannot circulate through the full cycle. The compressor tries to push gas, but encounters resistance. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the freezer is running, the main compartment is warm, the compressor is hotter than normal, and the condenser may be cold. Only a master can distinguish a blockage from a leak using pressure gauge, connecting it to the service fitting.
Repair at home is impossible, as it requires:
- 🔧 Opening the circuit and purging nitrogen.
- 🔧 Replacing the filter-drier.
- 🔧 Evacuating the system.
- 🔧 Refilling with an exact dose of freon.
⚠️ Attention: Attempts to break through the blockage pumping the system under high pressure at home can lead to rupture of pipes or damage to the compressor. This is a job for the service center.
Failure of the electronics and thermostat
If your Indesit equipped with electronic control (display on the door), the problem may lie in the “brains” of the refrigerator. The main control module receives signals from temperature sensors. If temperature sensor in the refrigeration chamber fails and shows incorrect data (for example, that it is -5°C, although in fact it is +10°C), the controller simply will not give the command to cool.
In mechanical models, it is responsible for turning on the compressor thermostat. This is a device that physically opens the circuit when the desired temperature is reached. If the thermostat contacts are “stuck” in the open position or the capillary tube of the thermostat has lost its tightness, the compressor will not start at all, or will only work on the freezer (depending on the connection diagram).
Diagnostics of the thermostat is simple: you need to close its contacts directly (previously disconnected from the network!). If after this the refrigerator starts and starts to cool, the thermostat needs to be replaced. Electronic models often require flashing the board or replacing it entirely.
Mechanical damage and overhang of the door
Sometimes the problem is more trivial than it seems. If you recently transported the refrigerator, changed its installation location, or simply slammed the door hard, the door may have moved seal or warped. In two-chamber models Indesit a situation often occurs when the skewed door of the main compartment does not fit tightly.
Warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The cooling system tries to compensate for heat gain, but its power is only enough for the freezer (which is sealed), and in the upper compartment the temperature is kept at +15...+20°C. Check the tightness with a sheet of paper: hold it with the door and try to pull it out. If the paper comes out easily without resistance, the hinges need to be adjusted.
It is also worth checking the air supply channels. In some models they are located on the rear wall. If you tightly fill the refrigerator with food, blocking the ventilation holes, cold air simply does not circulate. It is enough to rearrange the products, leaving a gap at the back wall.
Comparative table of symptoms and causes
To make it easier for you to navigate the variety of breakdowns, we have prepared a summary table. It will help compare the behavior of your Indesit with the most likely malfunction.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Do you need a technician |
|---|---|---|---|
| The freezer is working, the refrigerator is warm, there is no ice on the back wall | Freon leak or blockage | High | Yes, definitely |
| The freezer is working, the refrigerator is warm, on the back wall ice/snow | Malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, timer) | Average | Preferable (a multimeter is needed) |
| The compressor is silent, there is no light | No power supply or the thermostat has burned out | Low/Medium | You can do it yourself |
| The compressor hums, clicks and turns off | Start relay or compressor | Average | Desirable |
| The refrigerator works constantly without shutdowns | Freon leakage or the door is not tightly closed | High | Yes |
When you need to call a specialist
Despite the desire to save money, there are situations when do-it-yourself repair it is not only useless, but also dangerous. If diagnostics indicate a problem with a sealed circuit (leakage, blockage, compressor replacement), specialized equipment (vacuum pump, filling station, burner) is indispensable.
A technician is also needed if, after defrosting, the refrigerator worked for a couple of days and stopped cooling again. This is a guaranteed sign of a breakdown in the defrost system or electronics. Self-replacement of the heating element in models Indesit No Frost often requires complete disassembly of the freezer chamber and removal of the evaporator, which is labor-intensive without experience.
It is worth contacting the service if:
- 🛠 You hear a burning smell from the compressor.
- 🛠 The compressor tubes are covered with frost (“cry”) even in a warm room.
- 🛠 The internal panel is swollen with ice.
- 🛠 The electronics display error codes (flashing indicators).
⚠️ Please note: Repair prices may vary depending on the region and the cost of spare parts. Before starting work, be sure to agree on the final amount with the technician to avoid surprises.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to use an Indesit refrigerator if the upper chamber does not cool, but the freezer works?
For a short time - yes, the food in the freezer will not spoil. However, the unit cannot be operated for a long time in this mode. The compressor will work hard, trying to achieve non-existent cold, which will lead to overheating and combustion. In addition, bacteria will begin to multiply in the main chamber.
How long should defrosting last to eliminate the ice blockage?
For models Indesit with the No Frost system, the minimum time for complete defrosting is 24 hours. Less lengthy procedures (5-10 hours) often melt visible ice, but leave frozen water in the drainage channels, which leads to a quick return of the problem.
Why did the refrigerator work after defrosting, but after a week it stopped again?
This means that defrosting eliminated the symptom (ice jam), but not the cause. Most likely, it is faulty Defrost heating element, sensor or timer. The system froze again because the auto-defrost mechanism did not work at the right time.
What kind of freon is used in Indesit refrigerators?
Modern models most often use R600a (isobutane) or R134a. The exact type is indicated on the label inside the camera. It is important to know the type of refrigerant, since R600a is explosive in concentration, and working with it requires special care and ventilation.
Is it worth repairing an old Indesit refrigerator?
If the refrigerator is less than 7-10 years old and the compressor has not burned out, repair is advisable. Replacing a compressor or restoring a sealed circuit in very old models may not be economically justified, since the cost of work will be 50-70% of the price of a new budget device.