The situation when the refrigerator stops cooling in the main compartment, but the freezer continues to operate normally, often takes owners by surprise. This is a classic symptom indicating poor refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system. Unlike a complete equipment failure, when the compressor is silent, here the unit hums, the light is on, but the products in the upper part begin to deteriorate.
This behavior cannot be ignored, as the problem can progress. After a few days, the freezer may also stop working, or an expensive compressor may fail due to overheating. Understanding the physical processes occurring inside the circuit will help you make the right decision: call a technician or try to fix the problem yourself. household appliance This is not possible, as the problem may progress. After a few days, the freezer may also stop working, or an expensive compressor may fail due to overheating. Understanding the physical processes occurring inside the circuit will help you make the right decision: call a technician or try to fix the problem yourself.
In most cases, the reason lies not in magic, but in banal physics or mechanics. Refrigerant may partially evaporate, the capillary tube becomes clogged or sticks valve Let's look at the main scenarios, why the equipment behaves this way, and what actions need to be taken first.
Problems with tightness and freon leakage
The most common reason why refrigerator compartment stops gaining temperature is partial refrigerant leak. Freon circulates in a closed loop, and if a microcrack appears in the system, the pressure drops. A freezer that is located closer to the beginning of the cycle or has a separate evaporator may still have time to freeze until the cold simply reaches the upper compartment.
Leaks often occur in places where tubes are soldered or in the foamed part of the case, where the metal corrodes over time. If you notice that the compressor is running almost non-stop, trying to compensate for the lack of cold, this is a sure sign of depressurization. It is impossible to detect freon visually, it has no color and odor, so professional diagnosis using a leak detector is required.
⚠️ Attention: Independently refueling the refrigerator without finding and eliminating leaks is a waste of money. The gas will leave again in a few days or weeks, and the compressor may burn out due to wear and tear.
In modern models with the system No Frost leakage may appear unevenly. First, the temperature rises in the upper corners of the main chamber, then the upper shelves stop working. If you don’t react in time, even the ice in the freezer will defrost.
How do craftsmen find a leak?
The craftsmen use a special device - a leak detector, which reacts to freon vapors in the air. The nitrogen pressure test method is also used: gas is pumped into the system under pressure, and a pressure gauge shows whether it drops. To search for hidden leaks in the foamed layer, sometimes you have to open the case or use a thermal imager.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The heart of any refrigerator is the compressor, and if it does not work correctly, the entire cooling system suffers. It often happens that compressor pistons lose their compression (wear of rings or valves). In this case, it hums, but does not create enough pressure to pump freon throughout the entire circuit. There is only enough pressure for the first circuit - the freezer.
Another common problem is the failure of start relay or the protective thermal contact. These small parts are responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overheating. If the relay is “stuck” or burned out, the compressor may not start at all or may work jerkily, clicking every few minutes.
You can check the operation of the motor by touching its body (be careful, it may be hot). If it is hot to the point where it is impossible to hold your hand, and there is no cold, the circulation is most likely disrupted or a leak has occurred. In normal mode unit should be warm, but not scalding.
Clogged capillary tube or filter drier
There are bottlenecks in the freon circulation system, such as the capillary tube and filter drier. Over time, microscopic contamination may form inside the circuit: oil oxidation products, moisture or small debris. These particles accumulate in the narrowest place, creating a plug.
When this occurs clog, the refrigerant cannot move freely throughout the system. The pressure before the plug increases, and after it it drops. As a result, the evaporator in the freezer may become covered with frost (since freon still reaches there under residual pressure), and warmth reigns in the main compartment. This condition is often called an "oil lock" or ice blockage if moisture is the culprit.
A symptom of a clog can also be strange behavior of the pipes: one part of the system will be very cold, while the other will remain warm at room temperature. It is almost impossible to clean the capillary tube on your own at home; high-pressure nitrogen purging and filter replacement are required.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Required action |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor runs non-stop | Freon leak | Searching for leaks, refueling |
| Clicks and buzzing, then silence | Faulty start relay | Replacing the relay |
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm | Capillary clogged or leaking | Purge the system, vacuum |
| Ice only at the entrance to the evaporator | Moisture in the system (ice plug) | Replacing the filter-drier |
Failure of sensors and electronics
Modern refrigerators, especially those with a system No Frost and electronic control, are stuffed with temperature sensors. If the sensor that controls the climate in the main chamber transmits incorrect data to the control module, the “brain” of the refrigerator may “think” that it is already cold there. As a result, it does not give a command to cool the upper compartment.
The defrost sensor or air sensor often fails. In models with one compressor and one cooling circuit, the damper is responsible for distributing the cold. If damper jammed in the closed position due to a malfunction of the drive or freezing, cold air from the freezer simply does not enter the refrigerator compartment.
You can check the electronics by paying attention to the indication. If there are errors on the display (for example, flashing temperature indicators), this is a direct signal of a sensor failure. Sometimes a complete reboot helps: disconnecting from the network for 15-20 minutes. This allows you to reset controller logic errors.
⚠️ Attention: When working with electronics, be sure to disconnect the device from the network. A short-circuit of the sensor contacts can damage the main control module, the repair of which is very expensive.
Problems with the defrosting system (for No Frost)
In refrigerators of the No Frost system, the evaporator is hidden behind the back wall and is periodically defrosted by the heating element. If the defrost system breaks down (the heating element, timer or defrost sensor burns out), the evaporator becomes covered with ice. This ice blocks the fans, and cold air stops circulating through the chambers.
The refrigerator compartment is usually the first to suffer, since it is located further from the source of cold and depends on the active operation of the fan. The freezer, being in close proximity to the frozen evaporator, can still maintain a sub-zero temperature for some time due to residual cold.
You can diagnose this problem by listening to the operation of the equipment. If you do not hear the characteristic fan noise or hum that usually accompanies operation No Frost, it means that the air flow is stopped by an ice plug. In this case, it is often necessary to completely defrost the refrigerator within 24 hours.
☑️ Actions if you suspect an ice jam
Mechanical damage and wear of seals
Although it sounds trivial, it is not airtight the fit of the refrigerator door can create the illusion of breakage. If the seal is dry, dirty or the door is warped, warm air constantly flows inside. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat, working at the limit, but due to the design features (or if the freezer is sealed), the cold manages to remain only in the lower compartment.
You can check the seal with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter: if it comes out too easily, the seal is broken. It is also worth inspecting the camera for cracks in the plastic case, through which cold can escape.
Sometimes the problem lies in improper loading of products. If you block the ventilation holes in the back wall with pots or bags, air circulation is disrupted. It may be cold in the area near the back wall, but warm on the shelves in the back or near the door.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it does not freeze in the upper compartment?
For a short time - yes, but you can’t do this for a long time. The compressor operates in increased mode, which leads to its overheating and rapid failure. In addition, the food in the refrigerator compartment will spoil.
How long does it take to defrost a refrigerator with an ice jam?
It takes at least 24 hours for the ice in the hidden cavities of the evaporator to completely melt. Using a hairdryer is not recommended, as a sudden temperature change can damage the plastic or the soldering of the tubes.
Why, after defrosting, did the refrigerator stop cooling again after a week?
Most likely, the reason is not ice, but a freon leak or a blockage. Defrosting gave a temporary effect, removing the ice plug, but the main fault (for example, a microcrack) did not go away.
Is replacing freon expensive?
The cost depends on the model and type of refrigerant. However, refueling itself without looking for leaks is pointless. Comprehensive repairs (search for leaks, soldering, evacuation, refilling) are much more expensive than simple refueling.
What to do if the refrigerator is humming, but not cooling?
This is a sign that the compressor is working, but does not create the required pressure (wear) or the circuit is clogged. It is necessary to call a technician to measure the pressure in the system and check the compression.
To summarize, we can say that the situation when The refrigerator does not cool, but the freezer works.most often indicates a refrigerant leak or a clogged system. This is not a case where you can get by by adjusting the screws or replacing the light bulb. The intervention of a specialist with equipment for working with freon is required.
Do not delay repairs. The longer the equipment operates in emergency mode, the higher the risk of completely replacing the compressor, which is often not economically feasible compared to the cost of a new unit. Take care of your equipment, and it will serve you for many years.