The situation when a refrigerator Ariston ceases to perform its main function always takes you by surprise. Products begin to deteriorate, and condensation or, conversely, an ice crust appears on the shelves. Before calling a technician, it is worth carrying out an initial diagnosis yourself, since in many cases the reason lies in simple things that do not require complex tools.
Often owners are faced with the fact that the equipment operates silently, but the temperature inside does not drop below room temperature. In other cases, the engine hums continuously, trying to compensate for the loss of cold. Understanding the principles of operation refrigeration circuit will help you quickly determine the nature of the breakdown and make the right decision on repairs.
Do not panic if you notice deviations in the operation of the unit. Modern models, such as Ariston No Frost or classic two-chamber versions, are equipped with protection systems that can temporarily stop the compressor. However, if the problem persists for more than a few hours, a detailed examination of the components is necessary.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a loud cracking sound, see sparking, or smell burnt wiring, immediately unplug the device. Further operation in this condition may lead to a fire.
Primary diagnostics and external factors
Before disassembling the equipment or looking for faults in the depths of the unit, rule out trivial causes. Often the question “why the Ariston refrigerator is not cooling” is solved by checking the power supply and the position of the door. Make sure that the plug fits tightly into the outlet and that the cord itself is not pinched by the housing or furniture. Sometimes power surges in the network can knock out the built-in fuse or activate electronic protection.
Pay attention to how tightly the rubber seal door fits around the entire perimeter. If the rubber is dirty, dried out or deformed, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The compressor simply does not have time to cool the volume, working for wear. Wipe the seal with a soft cloth and soapy water and check the fit.
It is also worth checking the temperature settings. Perhaps someone in the household accidentally moved the knob or changed the parameters in the digital menu. Models with electronic control are characterized by a controller failure, which you can try to reset.
It is important to check whether the unit is standing too close to heating devices or in direct sunlight. Heat transfer in this case it is broken, and the operating efficiency drops critically. Leave at least 5-10 cm of clearance between the back wall of the refrigerator and the kitchen wall for free air circulation.
Problems with the No Frost defrosting system
In models with the system No Frost the most common reason for the lack of cold is a malfunction of the system defrost. Ice builds up on the evaporator, which is hidden behind a plastic panel, and blocks the circulation of cold air. As a result, the chambers are warm, and inside the technical compartment there is an ice block.
Several key elements are responsible for the defrosting process: Evaporator heating element, a defrost sensor and a timer (or electronic module). If the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt. If the sensor is faulty, it does not give a command to turn on the heater or, conversely, does not turn it off in time. Visually, this can be seen by the snow coat on the back wall if you remove the decorative panel.
Often owners forget that the drainage hole can become clogged with crumbs or dirt. Water from melting ice does not go into the pan, but freezes, forming an ice plug. This blocks the entire system. Cleaning the drainage with a thin wire or a syringe with warm water often solves the problem.
How to check the heating element with a multimeter?
To check the heater, you need to get to the evaporator, disconnect the contacts of the heating element and ring it with a tester. The resistance of a working element is usually from 200 to 500 Ohms. If the device shows a break (one on the screen), the heating element requires replacement.
If you find a layer of ice, do not try to pick it out with a knife. Damage to the evaporator tubes will lead to leakage refrigerant, which will require expensive professional repairs with sealing and refilling with freon. It is better to defrost the refrigerator completely, leaving the doors open for a day.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The heart of any refrigerator is the compressor. If it does not start or works intermittently, there will be no cold. Often the problem lies not in the motor itself, but in starting relay. This small device is responsible for starting the engine. If it breaks down, the compressor may hum for several seconds, click and turn off.
Replacing the relay is one of the simplest procedures available even to beginners. It is enough to remove the back cover, disconnect the old relay and install a new one, identical in markings. However, if after replacement the situation has not changed, the winding of the compressor itself may have burned out or the piston mechanism has jammed.
In models with two compressors (separately for the refrigerator and freezer), the situation may be partial. For example, the freezer works great, but the refrigerator compartment is warm. This indicates a failure of one of the motors or a problem with the circuit going into this particular chamber.
☑️ Compressor diagnostics
It is worth noting that modern inverter compressors, which are installed in top models Aristonare diagnosed differently. They do not emit characteristic clicks when starting, but smoothly gain momentum. To check them, special equipment is often required, and independent repair is difficult here.
Freon leakage and capillary tube clogged
If the compressor runs constantly without turning off, but there is no cold, there is a high probability refrigerant leaks. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack has formed in the tubes (often due to corrosion), the gas evaporates. Without a sufficient amount of freon, heat exchange is impossible.
Another common problem is clogged capillary tube. Oil circulates in the system, which over time can thicken or mix with breakdown products, forming a plug. The refrigerant cannot pass through the narrow section of the tube, and the pressure in the system drops. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor hums, the condenser (grid at the back) remains cold or warm only at the inlet.
| Symptom | Probable Cause | Necessary actions |
|:--- |:--- |:--- |
| The compressor is silent, there is no light | No power, socket burnt out | Check the cable and voltage |
| It buzzes for 5-10 seconds and clicks | Start relay faulty | Replace the relay or check the windings |
| Works constantly, no cold | Freon leak or blockage | Call a technician to find a leak/clean |
| It's getting cold, ice is freezing | No Frost system malfunction | Defrost, check the heating element and sensors |
| Vibration and noise | Uneven installation, touching pipes | Align the legs, move them away from the wall |
⚠️ Attention: Finding freon leaks and refilling the system require licensed equipment and skills. Independent attempts to add gas “by eye” will lead to final breakdown of the compressor.
Diagnosing a leak visually is difficult, since freon is colorless and odorless. Craftsmen use leak detectors or a method of painting the system. If you notice oily spots on the tubes at the bottom of the unit, this is an almost guaranteed sign of depressurization of the circuit.
Failure of the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (or temperature sensor in electronic models) is the “brain” that commands the compressor to turn on or off. If it fails and shows incorrect data, the refrigerator may “think” that it is already cold inside and not start the cooling cycle.
In mechanical models, the regulator looks like a knob with numbers inside the chamber. Its breakdown is often accompanied by the fact that the unit either does not turn on at all or works non-stop, freezing the entire contents. You can check it by closing the contacts directly (for diagnostics), but it is better to immediately replace it with an analogue one.
In systems with electronic control failure of the air sensor or evaporator sensor it is often displayed as an error code on the display. For example, flashing lights may indicate a specific problem. It is better to look for decoding codes for your model in the technical documentation. Ariston It's better to look in the technical documentation.
Incorrect operation of the thermostat can also be caused by oxidation of the contacts in the control circuit. Check the connectors going to the sensors for green or carbon deposits. Sometimes it is enough just to clean them with alcohol and connect them tightly.
Malfunctions of the control module
Modern refrigerators Ariston are controlled by complex electronics. Voltage surges, moisture, or simply aging of components can cause damage. control module. In this case, signals from the sensors are not processed correctly, and commands to the actuators (compressor, fan, heating element) are not received.
Symptoms of electronics failure may be chaotic turning on and off of indicators, the inability to change temperature settings, or a complete failure to respond to buttons. Sometimes it helps by simply resetting errors disconnecting the device from the network for 15-20 minutes.
If rebooting does not help, the board needs to be diagnosed by a specialist. Perhaps the fuse on the board has blown, the capacitor has broken, or the microcircuit has failed. Self-repair of the module is only possible if you have circuit design and soldering skills for SMD components.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why does the Ariston refrigerator turn on for 1 minute and then turn off?
Most likely, the start relay is faulty or there is a problem with the compressor windings (interturn short circuit). Also, the reason may be the activation of thermal protection due to overheating of the motor.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it does not cool, but works?
It is strictly not recommended. The compressor is running idle or in overload mode, which will lead to its rapid combustion. In addition, the food will spoil, and mold may develop in the chamber.
How often do you need to defrost a No Frost refrigerator?
The No Frost system does not require regular defrosting to remove ice, as this happens automatically. However, once a year it is recommended to turn off the device to wash and clean the drainage system from contaminants.
What to do if the refrigerator does not work after defrosting?
Wait 3-4 hours after turning it on. If there is no cold, check if the compressor starts. If the motor is silent, the problem may be in the relay or wiring. If it hums, there may be a freon leak.